Limits on IS 100-400 Lens

[Constance Campanella]

Hello. I was recently told by a professional photographer that the IS lens only "works" (controls the shake) at shutter speeds of 100 and above. That appears to be consistent with my experience, but I'd not heard of that limitation before. Any feedback from the Forum?

I need to learn MUCH MORE about metering. Can anyone direct me to good instructions in writing?

Thank you.

--cc

[SkipD]

I was recently told by a professional photographer that the IS lens only "works" (controls the shake) at shutter speeds of 100 and above.I don't think that's correct, though I don't (yet) have the 100-400 IS lens to verify it. However, I've used my 70-200 f2.8 IS at 1/15 second and IS was working just great.

[Jon]

How well IS works at a given shutter speed depends on how steady you are. IIRC, Canon claims about 2-3 stops improvement in hand-holdability for their IS lenses. At 400 mm, with a 20D, that'd get you from about 1/750 to 1/125 with comparable results. But IS works whenever you're using the lens (unless it's turned off). The real question is when do you reach the point where you're too unsteady for it to cope.

[Jim_T]

As Jon says.. It all depends on how steady you are...

By leaning against a wall for added support, I've shot at 400mm as slow as 1/90 sec and got some good pictures with the 100-400...

But.. IS only corrects YOUR movement.. It doesn't take into account your subject's motion.. The rules of exposure still apply.. I have lots of shots of birds in low light with their heads or bodies blurred because they moved...

[J Rabin]

I was recently told by a professional photographer...IS lens only "works"...speeds of 100 and above.

Nonsense. Maybe what he meant was, as a margin of handheld safety, on a day with lots of coffee, he didn't trust IS below 1/100. It's limited as poster's above note, by hand movement, air movement, etc. For me, it depends on excitation level, wind, coffee, etc.
But, this is handheld, 300mm, 1/30, with the 70-300 DO IS lens that everyone says is such a controversial crappy lens:
http://aesop.rutgers.edu/~rabin/Plants/slides/Leaf%20Silhouette%2002.htm
There is a point at which mirror slap vibration is at its max, but this varies for each camera model, not lens, and is frequently in the 1/15 to 1/30 range.


There are many good and bad books on exposure, and many good free tutorials on the web. Go to a bookstore and browse.
The trick or challenge for me is to "see" where the "neutral" tone is an image for metering at the same time that your eye and mind are assessing what is the most "important" tone in the subject that needs "faithful" expsoure even if exposure must be compromised in other areas. In fast paced candids, PJ, or wildlife this has to become second nature. In studio or flash, its an experiential art. The idea is faithful exposure more than technically accurate exposure. I do not do landscape photography, but if I did, I'd read Norman Koren's simplified Zone System, Chris Weston's The Photographic Guide to Exposure, exposure stuff on Steve Hoffman's site if you do macro, etc.
Have fun.