image look

[colin uk]

Can any one help with synchronizing the way my images look as on the LCD on the camera they can look fine, but often they are much darker when viewed on my PC? Again once cleaned up to my satisfaction I then find that the images often look much different then expected when printed. I am using Epson R300 Printer, Canon 350D and a TFT monitor.

[markyb]

i got the same problem.
its to do with calibrating monitor, but its not as easy with an lcd , well not without expensive hardware.
there is a few threads on here regarding this.
im getting frustrated with it as well.

[colin uk]

It’s some what comforting that I am not the only one who has this problem. I can end up printing 3 or 4 times to get the right image.

[PhotosGuy]

Forget the LCD except for checking composition. Use the histogram to set exposure.
Curtis's thread:
How NOT to expose to the right (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93712)

[colin uk]

I have read the thread ‘How NOT to expose to the right ‘and as I have not considered to use the histogram before (not even in Photoshop) I can see I have bit of a leaning curve still. I am learning but all the tec stuff blows me away. I have been relying on the camera metering but I will see what I can do using the histogram. I will have to take the shot check the histogram and retake the shot if necessary?

[mgbeach]

You can adjust the brightness of the LCD on your camera. Lower it until it more closely matches what you see on your screen. This might help until you are more familiar with the histogram display. As far as differences from screen to print, you need to calibrate your monitor. Even one of the free online methods might help you be a little more consistent.
http://www.displaycalibration.com/

[Jon]

Forget the camera's LCD, as PhotosGuy said, for anything but composition. Use the histogram if you want to assess exposure in-camera. For calibrating your monitor and printer take a look at color management packages such as those from Colorvision and Monaco. They include a hardware "reader" to assess the color of a standard target, and can develop the correct color profile for both your printer and monitor so WYSIWYG, not WYSisortaWYG.

[colin uk]

Forget the camera's LCD, as PhotosGuy said, for anything but composition. Use the histogram if you want to assess exposure in-camera. For calibrating your monitor and printer take a look at color management packages such as those from Colorvision and Monaco. They include a hardware "reader" to assess the color of a standard target, and can develop the correct color profile for both your printer and monitor so WYSIWYG, not WYSisortaWYG.

Expense is an issue at the moment but if calibration software like Colorvision or Monaco is the way to go then I will put them on to my wish list. The way things are going though I will need some software to calibrate my wish list).

[PhotosGuy]

I will have to take the shot check the histogram and retake the shot if necessary? Works for me. Expense is an issue at the moment but if calibration software like Colorvision or Monaco is the way to go then I will put them on to my wish list. You can get VERY close by eye. Look at these:
Monitor calibration and gamma
Quick test:
http://epaperpress.com/monitorcal/index.html
Better info:
http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html
http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1B.html
Dry Creek "Introduction to Digital Photo Lab Profiles"
http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Frontier/index.html