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View Full Version : What do I lose at F4+?


poesprogeny
2nd of November 2001 (Fri), 09:21
I just came across this site and it looks great with the information and all of the great pictures that everyone has posted. I was hoping someone can help me with a question. I've just been into photography for a year, but I am about a week from stepping up to a higher level camera and lense combination. I've read as much as person can read in the last four months about this, but still a little confused.

In looking at Canon's L series lenses, I have been trying to determine which style is going to be best for me, and if the price difference is worth the performance difference. For instance, I know that everyone wants the fast lenses like the 2.0's and the 2.8's. But, I guess my question is why? I know you get more light from them, but what shots am I missing if I get an F4 lens (at a lower price) than an F2 lens? I don't know if I'm making a lot of sense here or not. But, if I am going to be doing a lot of landscape photography where I am wanting more (if not the most) depth of field, am I losing anything by going to an F4 lens instead of an F2? For that matter, for this type of photography, am I losing anything by going to an F5+? (Still within the L series of lenses)

Conversely, what kind of shots are going to require the 2.0 lens where the aperture is thrown wide open? Is that going to be the telephoto shots on wildlife where shallow DOF is the rule?

Again, I know these are beginner questions, and that's because I'm a beginner. The camera that I have now is a Minolta with interchangeable lenses, but allows for no manual controls at all. Everything is automated. So, in stepping up to a better system and lens, I just want to make sure I'm getting what I need and not missing out on something that I may not know that I do need.

Any help or advice would be immensely appreciated. Thanks for reading.

nitwit3
12th of November 2001 (Mon), 21:15
I'm new to real photography also. I love bird and animal closeups. I'm using a 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS and it wonderful but a heavy S.O.B.
When I need a more more MM I use a Canon Extender EF 1.4X 11, but with this extender you have to use manual focus which isn't all that bad. This can be overcome by some clear tape. Go to www.fredmiranda.com and it is explained in detail in the "tips and techniques" section. I don't use this tip often because the darn auto focus searches and bangs around and worries me...it finally finds the target, but the bird has flown the coup by then...heheh

With this lens I also got a Kenko Auto Focus tube set for macro...the tube set, (not very expensive) lets you get a little closer. I have also ordered a 500D closeup lens that Fred advised me to get for even better macro with this lens.
Don at http://www.dlcphotography.net/ uses the 100-400 sometimes with the Kenko Tubes and gets marvelous macro results...check him out to.

So, overall, I get great depth of field (study the ISO settings because they allow you to get better speed) and I use Fred's actions for everything I do...they are incredible with Photoshop 6.
I use that lens quite a bit and the 28-135IS for everyday stuff...I'd say the 28-135 is a good lens, not a great lens. For low light and speed I say give the 50mm f/1.4 a go...mine hasn't arrived yet but it is reknowned as a great lens..great.
I use the 70-200 f/2.8L for all my fancy shots like portraits etc..with good lighting..it also can work in slightly low light..with that EF Extender 1.4X 11, the auto focus works with no problems for more MM shooting gardens etc.

I've got others, but this is turning into a friggin' book..sorry 'bout that.
I didn't answer your setting question but maybe some honest first hand greenhorn advice is valuable. It's a whole friggin' different ballgame with the D30...but the results are incredible.

Cheers,
The Nitwit

rojoyinc
24th of November 2001 (Sat), 10:33
I won't own any Canon lens slower than a 2.8
When shooting indoors you will have times when you don't get enough light in to allow ambient light shots.
To get them you'll need to pump up the ISO (adding noise) or you'll need to use a slow shutter speed (getting blurred images).

Also - you can't get good night/low light sports shots with a F4. When shooting night football, indoor gym basketball etc. (and high school venues) F4 will be to slow. You'll have to shoot at 1/60th of a second (shutter speed) to get enough exposure. Which means all your subjects wil be blurred (from motion).

To shoot at 250th or faster you'll need a F2 - 2.8