Q&A Session with Gmen: Sports Photography

[isdoo]

ok - compared with footballers :p true they jump - but rarely out of the frame :)

[gmen]

ok - compared with footballers :p true they jump - but rarely out of the frame :):lol: This guy did his best to jump out the frame...

http://www.tgsphoto.co.uk/forum_images/oom001.jpg

---- Gavin

[DwightMcCann]

:lol: This guy did his best to jump out the frame...
---- Gavin
Exactly why I have that 400mm f/2.8 in my equipment budget!

[isdoo]

Took a great photo tonight that was the opposite - the toss was done in the Twenty20 match live on Sky Sports - however the roving camera failed. Therefore the only available camera was the stump camera - picture the scene with presenter, both captains, mascots and umpire all lying on the ground trying to get in the shot.

I was lying behind the stump on my stomach taking the photo LOL

Will post it later :)

[vistaphotos]

Hi Gavin & Ian,
Thanks for the all the feedback. Something in the back of my midn told me that the 70-200 f2.8 was the way to go. As luck would have it, a used Canon version came up for sale locally towards the end of last week and I'm the proud owner since last night. I hope to get out to give it a proper run over the coming days. I liked the suggestion about the Sigma 120-300 but found there was about €700 in the difference in price between it and the 70-200, which was a stretch too far in the budget just for me at the moment.
All the best, Kieran

Hi there Kieran... welcome to POTN and thanks for the kind words about the thread!

It's a tough one to answer. However, if you're shooting paid gigs for a paper, the key thing is to be able to get a result no matter what job you're asked to do.

This would tend to push me towards the 70-200mm f/2.8 as the first purchase. If you're asked to do a job under floodlights, then an f/4 lens will frequently be of no use whatsover (even at ISO3200)... so the wider aperture of the f/2.8 lens is incredibly useful. Bear in mind that this will apply to winter afternoon matches as well as regular evening games.

Yep, you'll sacrifice some reach... but it's much better to be able to shoot at 1/400s than 1/200s!

Add a 1.4x converter/extender and you've got a 280mm option at f/4 with the 70-200mm. It won't be quite as sharp as using a fixed focal length but more than acceptable, particularly if you stop down very slighty, even to f/4.5. This would give you some more reach when the light is better.

At a later date, you can add a long, fast prime like the 300mm f/2.8 or 400mm f/2.8. The 1.4x converter/extender will still work with those lenses... and you'll already have a 70-200mm f/2.8 which you may end up using on a second body.

So, in a nutshell, my gut feeling would be to go for the faster, shorter glass initially. It's suprising how often f/4 just isn't fast enough for sports shooting... and, like I said, if you're shooting professionally or semi-professionally, a bunch of blurry shots are probably not going to go down to well with your editor.

The reach of a nice big prime is great... but I started out shooting with a 135mm f/2.8 lens in the manual days... and moved onto a 70-200mm f/2.8 zoom before going with the expensive primes. Also, if the light is good, hopefully you can still borrow that 50-500mm from time to time.

Hope that helps.

---- Gavin

[gmen]

Just added some football images from the new season here:

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=191458

...and some diving panning here:

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=190018

---- Gavin

[grego]

Well I did it Gavin. Aside from buying a 30D like a month or two ago. Now I just added the MKII. I'm nuts!! I'll have to post some images here. I have shot stuff from tennis to basketball recently. :)

[gmen]

Well I did it Gavin. Aside from buying a 30D like a month or two ago. Now I just added the MKII. I'm nuts!! I'll have to post some images here. I have shot stuff from tennis to basketball recently. :)Nice one! Have fun with the new machine... ;)

---- Gavin

[grego]

I forgot, since I don't have to do any post processing/uploading. Here's some of the shots from this past week/weekend from the 2006 Countrywide Classic at UCLA.

http://www.dailybruin.com/cwcsl/slide-show.html
That Greg guy is in there somewhere. :p

This was my first time ever shooting tennis. I totally forgot to ask you for advice. Whoops. I ended up asking a few questions before my first, the Roddick match though.

[gmen]

Hi everyone...

Just a quick message for anyone that may post a question in this thread in the near future.

I must apologise in advance for any delay to replying to any posts. I have a number of ongoing projects at the moment and, as an inevitable result, I am unable to visit POTN as much as I would like.

I will endeavour to respond to all posts/enquiries/messages... but there may be a delay before I get back to you!

Thanks again to everyone that has contributed to this thread... and I hope it will continue to provide interesting reading.

Cheers!

---- Gavin

[Fireblade]

I had my first opportunity to shoot professional football last friday night. Reading this thread gave me some confidence and a good base setting for exposure and iso. I really appreciated the help and advice you have posted here Gavin.

thanks,

Shay.

[grego]

Amazing, ehh, I posted something Gavin. You inspired me too!! I know it's the wrong sport though. Futbol season for UCLA is right around the corner.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=204999

[huskie]

Gavin,
I know this is the time of year you are busy, but if you get the chance, could you take a look at a gallery of mine of some college football. This was a scrimmage of the school I played for and was wanting to get some good shots this season. Thanks for any advice.

MNU Football (http://sportsshots.exposuremanager.com/g/mnu_football)

[Crashoran]

Advice for cutting off feet and ankles? It seems like do it all the time

[gmen]

Gavin,
I know this is the time of year you are busy, but if you get the chance, could you take a look at a gallery of mine of some college football. This was a scrimmage of the school I played for and was wanting to get some good shots this season. Thanks for any advice.

MNU Football (http://sportsshots.exposuremanager.com/g/mnu_football)Hi Huskie...

I've had a look at your gallery and it looks good to me. It shows a good range of images, they are all cropped nice and tightly and, on the whole, show the faces of the participants.

I imagine that a 'scrimmage' is not an all-out competitive match so there wouldn't be as much 'peak' action as usual... but I still think that you've done a good job of capturing the essence of the event. I'm sure the players involved would be very pleased to see the images.

Your exposures look pretty consistent as well. I also like the way you've shot some of the images from a lower perspective rather than just a standing position.

Keep it up! As always, the more practice you can get the better. Moving forwards, try to get even tighter into the action for some shots... and it might be an idea to incorporate some wider views to give the whole event some additional context.

Hope that's helpful.

---- Gavin

[gmen]

Advice for cutting off feet and ankles? It seems like do it all the time:lol: Wish there was an easy answer to that one.

The only word of advice I can offer is 'anticipation'. The better you can anticipate the play, the more time you will have to 'settle' into the shot.

If you buy yourself a moment or two through anticipating the action, you'll have time to actively decide whether to shoot horizontally of vertically and you'll increase your overall chances of composing the shot successfully. The key thing is having that time to 'settle' rather than rushing into the shot.

Obviously the tighter you shoot, the more chance there is of chopping off extremeties. Sometimes it's inevitable. It can then be a case of re-cropping the shot in PP to give the right 'feel. The general rule of thumb is to avoid cropping at joints as that can give the image an 'uncomfortable' look.

---- Gavin

[grego]

Change of AF points as well, although I do find on the 30D/20D the off center ones kind of annoying, but I have figured out how to get them to work. Glad I have my 1DMKII now, though.

But that is the way I found to crop out bad stuff sometimes and include more of the body from time to time.

[gmen]

Change of AF points as well, although I do find on the 30D/20D the off center ones kind of annoying, but I have figured out how to get them to work. Glad I have my 1DMKII now, though.

But that is the way I found to crop out bad stuff sometimes and include more of the body from time to time.Yep, if you're exclusively using the centre point, then your compositions will often end up with some 'information' being cropped off of the edge of the frame.

Also the centre point tends to make for OOF faces when you're filling the frame using long glass... the centre point often puts the point of focus firmly in the groin/stomach of the subject :lol:

I have to say that I'm a fan of using all the points on the 1-series cameras given that there is reasonable contrast between players and backgrounds. Every situation/sport is different and I'll also use single off-centre points... the AF point registration feature is very useful as this lets me change to a different point on the fly as the action is developing.

Again though, the main thing for me is being able to anticipate the play as this helps decide which set up to use... horizontal/vertical... which AF point... etc...

---- Gavin

[grego]

So with your 1D, you use all of them active?

I know with lower end, its not too effective, giving you soft photos, but I have yet to cover sports with my new 1D. I guess I need to jump in on the soccer practices that are going on to test everything.

[gmen]

So with your 1D, you use all of them active?

I know with lower end, its not too effective, giving you soft photos, but I have yet to cover sports with my new 1D. I guess I need to jump in on the soccer practices that are going on to test everything.Yep, some of time I use them all... I've got 'em... so I make sure use 'em whenever I can ;)

You have to make a judgement as to whether the camera will be able to cope with a particular situation - i.e. is there enough contrast to enable to camera to decide between subject matter and background. It doesn't take too long to take some test shots to see whether a particular approach will work in practice during the game.

The all-points approach works well for football and similar sports... but it may not work so well for other sports. For example, with speedway and cricket, I'm generally using single points, both centre and off-centre.

Even when shooting football, registering an 'alternative' AF point is important for me so I can quickly change to a single point approach if the situation demands it. Sometimes I'll even start tracking the action with a single registered point then I'll let the full set of points take over... I find that I'm kinda 'massaging' the camera to do what I want it to do :lol:

---- Gavin

[grego]

Good to know. I will have to test it out and will report back to you with results, soon enough. But I will try to post some past things like the bball, and then some tennis and then some futbol. And maybe some UCLA football(although my chances are limited).

[huskie]

Thanks for looking Gavin. I had some wider views, but with it being a scrimmage, they didn't look very good with everyone standing around in the background. Thanks though, I will make sure I do try that again during a game.

With the questions of focus points, I use just the center point. When I try to use all of them, my Rebel almost always focuses on the wrong spot.

[grego]

I know you like questions, so I might as well bite

So Gavin? What to do. I shoot the first UCLA men's futbol/soccer game Saturday night at 7.

1DMKII on 120-300 2.8 or 30D. I guess one time where the crop factor defintely hurts in losing that extra reach. :lol:

This should be fun. My first time out with both of them. You normally shoot with your 400 2.8, right?

[gmen]

I know you like questions, so I might as well bite

So Gavin? What to do. I shoot the first UCLA men's futbol/soccer game Saturday night at 7.

1DMKII on 120-300 2.8 or 30D. I guess one time where the crop factor defintely hurts in losing that extra reach. :lol:

This should be fun. My first time out with both of them. You normally shoot with your 400 2.8, right?Hi Grego...

For football I generally shoot with the 400mm on one body... and the 300mm (or sometimes 70-200mm) on the other.

It's going to depend on where you're working from. If you're behind the goal, then 300mm on the MkII can be a bit short for midfield action, i.e. you might find you spend quite a bit of time waiting for the action to fill the frame if the team you're shooting isn't playing too well :lol:

From the sidelines, 300mm on the MkII is pretty good. If you can position yourself so that you can fill the frame with the goal that your team is attacking, then you'll be in a good spot. You'll be able to capture plenty of goalmouth and midfield action.... and your team won't have to be on the attack for you to get some shots.

I would say that I shoot 80% of football matches from the sidelines, from a point somewhere between the half way line and the edge of the 18-yard box depending on the brief. Just try to avoid the touchline that the referee's assistant is running. EDIT: Of course, this depends on whether the venue itself applies any shooting restrictions.

I've never used the 120-300mm, but I think I'd find it odd being able to zoom out :lol: I'd be tempted to tape it at 300mm and leave it there. However, if you're working from behind the goal the zoom may well come in handy when there are goalmouth incidents or if some celebrating players run right at you!

Good luck!

---- Gavin

[grego]

I can't stand in midfield, i don't believe. I've never tried it. The UCLA home audience sits on that side and then the benches are on the other side. So yeah, I have corners, and baseline areas. No middles(although I'd love to do some wide angle stuff behind the net-guess I gotta look into remote triggers).

I know I can get end part of the sidelines, but not deep towards the middle. I have been run into by a ref once. That hurt a lot. I was just about to take the photo and boom. He ran into me. I was like holy crap, that hurt. Must have been because I was using Nikon D1h. ;)

I know with the 1D on the 120-300 2.8, i'd get a FOV of 390mm. If i stuck that bugger on the 30D, i'd get 480mm. Such a dilema!! :lol:

I know what you mean as far as the zooming lower than 300mm. I have done it when I shot tennis with it.

[grego]

Update time!! :lol:

Ooh, I loved using the 1D for the game. The AF is so nice. It's so so responsive in comparison. I still haven't taken advantage of the 8.5 FPS though. Stuck to one AF point. I guess I'm going to have to experiment more, but there should be enough games to do that. I'm so rusty.

The biggest downside was the focal length. By the first overtime i switched the Sigma 120-300 to my 30D and wow the field of view was so much better with 480mm rather than 390.

I think for the limited times i do ucla football i might rent the 400 2.8, just because the 1D loses so much compared to the 1.6 crop.

I was so so rusty, I doubt I have anything worthy. :(

[ukhamsterclub]

Hi Gavin

I probably have a few questions, but rather than take up too much of your time I will drip feed them!:)

I read some of your posts with interest especially the one about shooting on manual. This is something I have always struggled to command as I simply struggle to get consistancy over a game where light changes quickly. Take this monday for instance. I found that trying to capture the moment I found a few shots "washed out". In part due to the bright sun lit conditions, but I wondered whether you had any tips for combatting that and how I can master the manual selection on the camera.

Regards


Nigel

[gmen]

I read some of your posts with interest especially the one about shooting on manual. This is something I have always struggled to command as I simply struggle to get consistancy over a game where light changes quickly. Take this monday for instance. I found that trying to capture the moment I found a few shots "washed out". In part due to the bright sun lit conditions, but I wondered whether you had any tips for combatting that and how I can master the manual selection on the camera.Yep, I agree with you 100%... when the light is changing quickly, it can be very tough indeed.

If I'm shooting with the sun behind me or to the side, I generally resort to Av mode in those circumstances (i.e. when the sun is in and out of the clouds rapidly and unpredictably, just like the last few days).

I try to predict when i mightt need a bit of exposure compensation, how the backgrounds and different kits will influence the meter. I also make a decision as to what metering pattern to use, again based on the kit colours and backgrounds. I'd say that much of the time I end up in the evaluative mode as there is never a perfect set of circumstances. It's all a compromise and inevitably I'll end up with some frames that are a bit over or under-exposed. The key is to minimise the problems as you go along and keep the images usable with a little bit of PP.

Why Av mode and not Tv mode? Well, I like to minimise the DOF so I don't like the camera taking control of the aperture. I'll let the shutter speed float around... making sure (via the ISO) that (at the darkest times) it stays at a sensible speed.

Having said all that, I will frequently try to get back in control and shoot in manual. To do that I make the decision to shoot straight into the sun. Here's an example from yesterday. I was fed up by half-time with the changing light so I shot the second half straight in the sun:

http://www.tgsphoto.co.uk/forum_images/insun.jpg

One benefit of shooting into the sun is that the exposure when the sun is out is pretty much the same exposure as when the sun is in... so there's not too much fiddling around and, as a result, manual exposure is workable/desirable. I also like the rim-lighting effect of the contre-jour approach... and, with the correct exposure, it can make faces easier to see as well because there are less harsh shadows.

Hope that's helpful.

---- Gavin

[ukhamsterclub]

Thanks Gavin

Yes that is really helpful, another question for you......

I read somewhere that Richard Pelham from the Sun newspaper upon getting his 1D Mark 2 camera immediately changed the ALSERVO tracking sensitivity to Fast.........I think it's Custom Function 20. I can see there are some benefits to this and have done it, but it can lead to some jumping around when using AF so i'mnot sure its such a great idea. Can I ask whether you use it and if so what setting you use?


Nigel

[gmen]

Thanks Gavin

Yes that is really helpful, another question for you......

I read somewhere that Richard Pelham from the Sun newspaper upon getting his 1D Mark 2 camera immediately changed the ALSERVO tracking sensitivity to Fast.........I think it's Custom Function 20. I can see there are some benefits to this and have done it, but it can lead to some jumping around when using AF so i'mnot sure its such a great idea. Can I ask whether you use it and if so what setting you use?


NigelI have it set to 'slow' or 'moderately slow' so that it doesn't jump around too much when something comes between the main subject and the camera. The camera seems to lock back on to the main subject more quickly this way because it hasn't de-focused so far.

---- Gavin

[ukhamsterclub]

Thanks Gavin, I'll let you get on with some work now! :-)


Regards

Nigel

[PhotosGuy]

I simply struggle to get consistancy over a game where light changes quickly. Keep in mind that Gavin usually shoots jpegs so he can upload them quickly. The rest of us can CYA with RAW. ;)
Why I love RAW - '53 Ford Sunliner (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43761)

[gmen]

Keep in mind that Gavin usually shoots jpegs so he can upload them quickly. The rest of us can CYA with RAW. ;)
Why I love RAW - '53 Ford Sunliner (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43761)True... RAW is a handy safety net as well ;)

---- Gavin

[gmen]

Some of my musings on shooting stock images for editorial use can be found here:

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=208620

---- Gavin

[Hydro]

Gavin, in some examples you have given regarding focus points------when you register an off center focus point for switching on the fly from using all points, do you use a top one? On my 20D, I started using a single top point because (like you warned in earlier posts) I was often getting a sharp uniform logo, but soft faces.

I am expecting to recieve a 1DMKII tommorow, and shoot some football (gridiron) and soccer in the next couple of days. I have been reading all the posts regarding the 1D focus points and other recommended settings for 1DMKII, but thought I would ask you for clarification on which off center point you typically registered for this type of sports action.

Also (apologies in advance for what might be a dumb question) but with all 45 points active on a relatively isolated player with decent contrast, does the camera ultimately select a point or points within the matrix when the shutter is finally released? In other words, will the camera ignore some of the 45 points in favor of others, and if so, how does one know the points used will capture the areas (faces) desired?

As usual, thanks so much for all your help.

RICK

[gmen]

Gavin, in some examples you have given regarding focus points------when you register an off center focus point for switching on the fly from using all points, do you use a top one? On my 20D, I started using a single top point because (like you warned in earlier posts) I was often getting a sharp uniform logo, but soft faces.

I am expecting to recieve a 1DMKII tommorow, and shoot some football (gridiron) and soccer in the next couple of days. I have been reading all the posts regarding the 1D focus points and other recommended settings for 1DMKII, but thought I would ask you for clarification on which off center point you typically registered for this type of sports action.

Also (apologies in advance for what might be a dumb question) but with all 45 points active on a relatively isolated player with decent contrast, does the camera ultimately select a point or points within the matrix when the shutter is finally released? In other words, will the camera ignore some of the 45 points in favor of others, and if so, how does one know the points used will capture the areas (faces) desired?

As usual, thanks so much for all your help.

RICKHi Rick...

The point that I register varies from sport to sport and I'll even change it during an event depending on what I'm trying to achieve at the time... so there's not really an easy answer I'm afraid.

Some examples...

All the points:

http://www.tgsphoto.co.uk/forum_images/insun.jpg

Off-centre point to the extreme right:

http://www.tgsphoto.co.uk/forum_images/rgt.jpg

Off-centre point just below centre and slightly to the right:

http://www.tgsphoto.co.uk/forum_images/bot.jpg

I really don't have a fixed recipe for this. I adapt my approach to what is in front of me... so, if I'm shooting some stock 'sportraits' in vertical orientation during a match, I'll register a point that falls on the player's face (i.e. near the top of the focus oval when in portrait orientation) and switch to that one as and when I need to.

In a nutshell, the point that you need to register is the point that works best for you at the time... the point that gives you the composition you want to achieve and what you want to have sharp within that composition.

As for using all the points with an isolated subject, it's going to depend on the distance to the subject and focal length, i.e. will the 'right' bits of the subject appear acceptably sharp because they lie within the DOF (however slim). The closer the subject gets, the more likely it is that you'll want to specify a point...

...errrr ...but I also find that you can sometimes get all the points to do something 'specific' for you. It's something I can't explain in explicit terms but, with experience, you'll start to recognise situations where you can 'massage' the points to get the results you need.

Hope that helps a bit. Sorry I can't give 100% specific info, but I guess we're at the boundary between the purely technical elements and the creative/artistic/stylistic aspects of sports shooting.

EDIT: I should add that I have a pretty pragmatic approach to this whole focus point thing :lol: There's a lot of bumph written about which points should/shouldn't be used... for me, if I try something and it works, I'll use it again.

---- Gavin

[Hydro]

Thanks once again, Gavin, for taking the time to explain your approach to this. It is very helpful. I hope you realize how much many of us have benefited from the expertise you are so willing to share.

In fact, just to illustrate the high regard that I have for both your skill and tutoring, my new MKII just arrived as I was scrolling down your reply, and it sits unopened while I get off this thank you. How's that for priorities?

RICK

[Dave_G]

Hi Gavin

I'd like to know what sort of kit you carry to a job - but not photo kit.

In another thread you talk about 3G - not everyone on the planet will know what that is, can you give us an insight into how you (and others) send your images from a wet car park in Dagenham please, using your laptop and a 3G card...I assume?

[LMP]

Hi Dave,

Over the past few months I've had the occasion to use 3G most weekends so can give you my take on how I use it combined with some other equipment.

Kit wise, well obviously a reasonably speced laptop combined with the 3G card. All the network providers offer a card but by far the most popular is Vodafone from what I see. A decent card reader (plus one spare for backup) and a few CF cards, preferably of a decent brand that can read from the camera quickly. I use 1GB Sandisk Ultra's or Extreme's.

Sofware : Something like Photomechanic or Fotostation to sort and caption your pics. Photomechanic seems to run faster on my laptop and I prefer it for that reason, however I sometimes have to use Fotostation as one of the agencies requests it. This is where the decent laptop comes into play as you need to be able to sort through your pics as fast as poss...there is nothing more annoying than having to wait for the laptop to catch up with you at a crucial time.

As for putting it all into practice, typically I willl have a brief given to me the day before the game. Certain players needed for stock, a certain size (landscape or portrait) to fit a gap if the game is on commision etc etc . I am also given an ipt file which I load into the software I am using that day. The ipt file will contain standard info relating to the particular client as well as a fixture identifier. The one for this Friday will read something along the lines of:

Photo: Marc Atkins. Swindon Town v Stockport County. Coca Cola League 2. 26/08/2006 My Caption goes here.

With that in mind I'll approach the game getting these shots when the oppertunity arises. Once I get the shot I want I will then swap my spare CF card for the one in the camera ( I can then carry on shooting with that body whilst wiring) and pop it into the reader. I then breifly check the shot is up to scratch, load the ipt data into it with PS or PM and add my caption to fit who is in the pic etc. After this I will then save the file at a lower resolution (around 300-400kb) for speed of sending to another location and then send via 3G/ftp to the picture desk. Depending on who I am working for there may be other odd things to add to this to suit their requirments.

When you read through it it may appear there is alot to do but if you setup a couple of actions then life is made easier. Not to mention the more you do it it becomes 2nd nature.....eventually :)

Does this help at all, I've written this in between doing a few other odds and sods so it may be a load of old waffle :)

Over to Gavin !

[KIPAX]

I looked into the 3g card and it requires a year contract. no PAYG :( so now I ask at the club and so far had good responses. stockport let me into the media office and plug the lan stright in and lincoln have said they have wireless and will deffo sort me out.

I am also going to take a line and if need be go to the newsdesks and use the ISDN lines because they (reporters) dissapear pretty quick :)

[LMP]

I looked into the 3g card and it requires a year contract. no PAYG :( so now I ask at the club and so far had good responses. stockport let me into the media office and plug the lan stright in and lincoln have said they have wireless and will deffo sort me out.

I am also going to take a line and if need be go to the newsdesks and use the ISDN lines because they (reporters) dissapear pretty quick :)

You can use 3G on PAYG, pick up a data card on ebay for about 30 quid and then get a 3G enabled sim card to pop in it. Mind you the cost for PAYG 3G is expensive AFAIK. If your not sending many pics from a game it's no big deal...15 + 300-400kb live files per game and it adds up fast :confused:

Some clubs have free wi-fi you can jump onto but not many unfortunatley.

[gmen]

Hi Gavin

I'd like to know what sort of kit you carry to a job - but not photo kit.

In another thread you talk about 3G - not everyone on the planet will know what that is, can you give us an insight into how you (and others) send your images from a wet car park in Dagenham please, using your laptop and a 3G card...I assume?Not much to add to what Marc has said...

...so, for the time being, here's a pic uploaded LIVE at 15:23 31/08/06 from a car park...

http://www.tgsphoto.co.uk/forum_images/carpark.jpg

---- Gavin

[isdoo]

Just trying to work out the car park LOL

[gmen]

Ok... I will add a few thoughts while I'm on the 3G in the car park.

Avoid the PAYG service... it costs way too much and it can be a real pain in the a** as well. The basic contract service (250Mb monthly allowance) is the best bet unless you're wiring stacks of stuff.

Get a back up battery for the laptop, you can't always rely on finding a power point if things take far longer than you expect them to. Also using the 3G card seems to run the battery down a bit quicker.

Remember that there are other options for Wi-Fi. For example: http://www.thecloud.net/ and http://www.btopenzone.com/ using a voucher based system. Great for car parks and Starbucks etc...

Carry your normal dial up modem cable with you and make sure you have a dial-up account ready to go on the laptop... if the worst comes to the worst... :lol:

Try out the different browser packages... PhotoMechanic, FotoStation, BreezeBrowser... see what works for you... I have PS Elements 4.0 installed on the laptop as well for image tweaking at speed rather than the full version of CS.

Wi-Fi is an interesting thing... but I won't say any more on that matter :)

Orange also make a 3G card, I have pondered getting one as a back up... I have known folk get connections on the Orange card when the Vodafone one won't connect... and vice-versa...

Have your IPTC data set up as .ipt 'stationery' so you can just load up all your basic info in one go - i.e. all your copyright and personal details... EDIT: Marc said that aready :lol: and, yep, you'll need to fit it to different clients' needs.

Oh yeah... and don't forget 3.5G... http://www.stuffmagazine.co.uk/hotstuffarticle.asp?de_id=2077

Enough waffling for now... Ker-Ching!

---- Gavin

[KIPAX]

Been into two phone shops today and both said no such thing as a 3gcard enabled PAYG sim.

I dowloaded all the pics last friday and then looked in PS .. silly me (well it was a first at pitchside sending) I need to look at one of the browsers mentioned above quick.. I take it you use these to look at your card and select for downlaod.. Is any of them free or full free trial at least?

I will go google :)

[Dave_G]

Nice one guys - thanks.

Gavin, good use of focus points on your shot of the laptop + 3G card too! haha

[gmen]

Been into two phone shops today and both said no such thing as a 3gcard enabled PAYG sim.They certainly exist as I've used one. I seem to recall it was an e-bay purchase. I had to 'data enable' it via Vodafone as well as it wouldn't work right away.

PAYG 3G is best avoided though... it literally eats cash. Run, run, run away!

---- Gavin

[gmen]

Nice one guys - thanks.

Gavin, good use of focus points on your shot of the laptop + 3G card too! haha:lol: Thought you'd like that.... off to MaccyD's now... yummmmmmmm... another pleasure of the car park :rolleyes: :p :confused:

---- Gavin

[isdoo]

Vodaphone do a PAYG 3G - actually I lie - it is a PAYU - which is slightly different.

[isdoo]

:lol: Thought you'd like that.... off to MaccyD's now... yummmmmmmm... another pleasure of the car park :rolleyes: :p :confused:

---- Gavin

Which car park - it is doing our heads in LOL - as JJB and Pets At Home are not togther in Essex - AFAWK - LOL

[isdoo]

Re 3G

Vodafones new 3.5G (broadband) - as mentioned in http://www.stuffmagazine.co.uk/hotstuffarticle.asp?de_id=2077 - I can buy the cards for £36 (+ P&P) if anyone is interested - the retail price is £99 + P&P - I will pass these on at cost price :)

Vodafone then charge the following rates...

VMC 250 (250MB)/ £1 per MB thereafter - £25.00pm
VMC Unlimited (1000MB fair usage) - £45.00pm

I am certainly going to order one - as I currently pay Orange more than £45pm and it is a limited tarriff and not as fast.

All prices exclude VAT AFAIK.

[LMP]

Ian, I may be interested in one of those Voda 3.5 cards. Is this something you can do anytime or a limted offer. I'm going away on Monday and wont 'need' one till I return.

I'm on an o2 3G package right now but a card at that price would do for a backup..seeing as I have the sim sitting here in front of me;)

BTW, re which car park...maybe it's somewhere in the East end. IIRC Gavin is covering the England ladies match at Charlton tonight :)

[gmen]

Re 3G

Vodafones new 3.5G (broadband) - as mentioned in http://www.stuffmagazine.co.uk/hotstuffarticle.asp?de_id=2077 - I can buy the cards for £36 (+ P&P) if anyone is interested - the retail price is £99 + P&P - I will pass these on at cost price :)

Vodafone then charge the following rates...

VMC 250 (250MB)/ £1 per MB thereafter - £25.00pm
VMC Unlimited (1000MB fair usage) - £45.00pm

I am certainly going to order one - as I currently pay Orange more than £45pm and it is a limited tarriff and not as fast.

All prices exclude VAT AFAIK.Ian.... this sounds very interesting ;) Assuming, it's straightforward to change my current 3G contract to a 3.5G one, I'd certainly be very interested in taking you up on this offer. I'll drop you a PM after I've spoken to Vodafone.

Cheers!

---- Gavin

[DwightMcCann]

This is grand information even for us in the colonies. My 400mm f/2.8L is now sitting in my home office. :-) Unopened as yet.

[LMP]

This is grand information even for us in the colonies. My 400mm f/2.8L is now sitting in my home office. :-) Unopened as yet.

You are the most patient man on the planet :)

[DwightMcCann]

You are the most patient man on the planet :)

Must have been a premonition ... just tried to open the case and the left latch won't release! Since I am unhappy about this let me ask someone with normal blood pressure what I should do ... I have applied a little extra force but don't want to break a brand new $6600 item or even its case, sigh. :cry:

[isdoo]

They make good designer seats if you never open them ;)

[DwightMcCann]

They make good designer seats if you never open them ;)

Well, I guess as a piece of art the cost is quite reasonable. :rolleyes: I'm still waiting to hear from Canon or B&H, sigh. :(

Just got a note from Canon ... they say I need to ship it back to B&H in New York for resolution. Can't wait to hear what B&H says.

Edit: I tried one more time with a very little more force and it opened ... but there was a small amount of damage: a small plastic bit that touches the latch mechanism and had apparently wedged against the slide broke off. The same piece on the other latch does not appear to perform any ongoing function but rather seems to enhance alignment when the slide is installed into the case. I will bag the broken piece and if I ever get down to Irvine I will take it by Canon and see if they can do something. The lens is a monster.

[mij]

This thread was very interesting reading, just a shame a lot of the images are no longer online. Well done to all though. I do have a slightly off topic question if that is okay, more out of curiosity than any practical value. Is it easier to shoot a sport you are not "into"?

Obviously I can understand the need to have a feel for a particular sport to be able to preempt the action, but is there a risk of getting too involved in the action as a fan rather than a photographer, especially if it is a team you support?

It is not just technically, such a missing shots getting caught up following the action which I guess is something easily avoided through experience, but as a member of the media, having to retain a professional neutral demeanour? If, say, a team you support, or even just one you have been following all season, scores in the last minute to win a final is it difficult restraining yourself from celebrating too?

Thanks,

Michael.

[gmen]

This thread was very interesting reading, just a shame a lot of the images are no longer online. Well done to all though. I do have a slightly off topic question if that is okay, more out of curiosity than any practical value. Is it easier to shoot a sport you are not "into"?

Obviously I can understand the need to have a feel for a particular sport to be able to preempt the action, but is there a risk of getting too involved in the action as a fan rather than a photographer, especially if it is a team you support?

It is not just technically, such a missing shots getting caught up following the action which I guess is something easily avoided through experience, but as a member of the media, having to retain a professional neutral demeanour? If, say, a team you support, or even just one you have been following all season, scores in the last minute to win a final is it difficult restraining yourself from celebrating too?

Thanks,

Michael.Hi Michael... firstly, sorry for delay in replying... been a busy weekend!

I'll try to restore some of the pics if I have time later in the week... it's a fair point, I moved some files off of my server a while back and I'll see if I can get them back online.

You pose an interesting question. I think my answer is going to be a very straightforward one though.

If you're shooting for a client to a brief, then you simply can't let the action overtake you, even if you are covering your favourite team. You simply have to remain professional and focused on what you need to achieve. It can be tough to remain dispassionate... but if you don't, you WILL miss the important images.

However, as a photojournalist, you are trying to tell the story of the game through the images, so it does help to have some 'feeling' for what's going on... this will help you to forsee what events might unfold and who are the key participants that you'll need images of. It's just getting the right balance and not throwing your camera in the air at the wrong moment :lol:

---- Gavin

[Croasdail]

Gavin... so I am finally getting around to buying my ground shooting plate setup from Overexposed. The one question I have for you is about their use behind soccer goals. My main usage will be for athletics, but as it is football season, I am having the urge to put a camera behind the net or in the net. The one chap I have seen do this used a bean bag and just tucked the camera into the back corner of the net. No one seemed to object. I would like to have the camera more center net if possible but have questions if this would prove distracting. So to cut to the chase - have you done the old in the net thing and have you used a plate behind the net or the old bean bag approach. Thanks in advance for any ideas. Cheers.

EDIT: Also, do you use an angle view finder when setting these up... or the cheap and easy trial and error setup method?

LAST EDIT!: Do you just use a ball head on it or did you get risers as well....? Last question, I promise.

[gmen]

Gavin... so I am finally getting around to buying my ground shooting plate setup from Overexposed. The one question I have for you is about their use behind soccer goals. My main usage will be for athletics, but as it is football season, I am having the urge to put a camera behind the net or in the net. The one chap I have seen do this used a bean bag and just tucked the camera into the back corner of the net. No one seemed to object. I would like to have the camera more center net if possible but have questions if this would prove distracting. So to cut to the chase - have you done the old in the net thing and have you used a plate behind the net or the old bean bag approach. Thanks in advance for any ideas. Cheers.

EDIT: Also, do you use an angle view finder when setting these up... or the cheap and easy trial and error setup method?

LAST EDIT!: Do you just use a ball head on it or did you get risers as well....? Last question, I promise.I have dabbled with the netcam. I'd certainly avoid putting it inside the net just in case a player ends up in the net and collides with it.... behind the net is that bit safer. A bean bag sounds very insubstantial and I have to say I've never seen anyone using one.

I ended up lying on the ground to set it up for horse racing... so an angle finder would certainly be useful if the camera is at ground level and you want to keep your clothes clean.

I'd be inclined to put it towards the corners of the net rather than the centre... but that's just personal preference. My gut feeling is that if you did an analysis of where the ball ends up in the net for a goal, it'd be in the corners more often than the centre.... but there's no science involved in that! It's a bit of lottery wherever you set it up: You won't know if you've got it in the 'right' place until after the game :lol:

As for the riser, it does come in handy if you decide you want to have the camera vertically... probably not something you'd do with the netcam, but might still be useful to have in the bag.

EDIT: Hockey netcam remote image of a goal being scored.... camera was superclamped to a railing behind the net... I played with the angle during the game and I still only managed two 'reasonable' shots... this being one of them. The image is cropped slightly from the top and right.

http://www.tgsphoto.co.uk/forum_images/netcam.jpg

---- Gavin

[gmen]

A handy recent addition to my equipment: Chimp Stickers... supplied by a colleague.

Helpful to identify one body from the other:

http://www.tgsphoto.co.uk/forum_images/chimp.jpg

Recommended for all you sports togs out there.

---- Gavin

[Croasdail]

EDIT: Hockey netcam remote image of a goal being scored.... camera was superclamped to a railing behind the net... I played with the angle during the game and I still only managed two 'reasonable' shots... this being one of them. The image is cropped slightly from the top and right.

So you pre-answered my follow on question. The fence surrounding the pitch isn't very far back from the back of the net, and I was thinking of using a magic arm clamped to the fence to have more flexibility on the angle the camera is shooting. I was concerned though that their might be some issues around where the camera is positioned as to not distract - generally the area behind the goal here is kept clear. No one has said I couldn't do it though. I was thinking of using a 14mm clamped about a foot off the ground. Any thoughts on the matter? Cheers....

[markgardner]

Gavin, and all that have contributed.

What a great thread, found it (and the forum) via a Google search on 'cropping' today.

Come on you Grays!

[DwightMcCann]

Gavin, and all that have contributed.

What a great thread, found it (and the forum) via a Google search on 'cropping' today.

Come on you Grays!

Mark, welcome to POTN! What are "Grays"? :rolleyes:

[markgardner]

Dwight

'Grays' are 'Grays Athletic', subject of many of Gavin's photographs and also the football team of my home town in England whom I watch regularly.

Small world!

Mark

[markgardner]

i should say my interest in the thread is more sports photography than the Grays connection.

[cbr929rrerion]

I have a question, I am doing some sports photography for fun, I dont have light meters or the best equipment, I am broke and trying to do my best with what I have.

I have a Canon 300D
Lens is the canon 75-300

Now I am pretty good at panning and stuff but I want more motion in my pics. I have been using the sport setting but would like to do more manual.

What would be a good base setting to start with doing this with the above equipment outside in sunny/shade areas.

Thanks in advance guys..

[gmen]

So you pre-answered my follow on question. The fence surrounding the pitch isn't very far back from the back of the net, and I was thinking of using a magic arm clamped to the fence to have more flexibility on the angle the camera is shooting. I was concerned though that their might be some issues around where the camera is positioned as to not distract - generally the area behind the goal here is kept clear. No one has said I couldn't do it though. I was thinking of using a 14mm clamped about a foot off the ground. Any thoughts on the matter? Cheers....Mark... I wouldn't be too concerned about distracting the players... in the UK, there are often fans right behind the goal as well as stewards/officials/police wandering by. Just check with the captains and match officials beforehand.

---- Gavin

[gmen]

i should say my interest in the thread is more sports photography than the Grays connection.Welcome aboard Mark! I cover Grays for the Recorder... so it's been very interesting to see the average crowds rise from a couple of hundred stalwarts to over a thousand in the space of 3 seasons :)

Glad the thread is of interest ;) Don't hesitate to post any questions... I'm trying to keep up with them :lol: When I was asked to participate in this thread, I think I seriously underestimated quite how popular it would turn out to be!

---- Gavin

[Hydro]

Gavin, this thread has turned into a comprehensive volume of work that I have found superior (in terms of practical application) to any glossy sports photography book I've seen. Perhaps because the tips and techniques are pointed and focused----there's no fluff.

It had occured to me that the volume of info contained here could damn near be turned into a published primer on sports photography. Ever thought of that? Since you're a bit of a wordsmith as well as a great tog, I can't imagine much editing would be required. Just organizing.

If it happened you might be able to recoup something for all the time you have put into this. Unless our gratitude and a hearty cyber handclasp is enough. Just an idle thought.

RICK

[gmen]

Gavin, this thread has turned into a comprehensive volume of work that I have found superior (in terms of practical application) to any glossy sports photography book I've seen. Perhaps because the tips and techniques are pointed and focused----there's no fluff.

It had occured to me that the volume of info contained here could damn near be turned into a published primer on sports photography. Ever thought of that? Since you're a bit of a wordsmith as well as a great tog, I can't imagine much editing would be required. Just organizing.

If it happened you might be able to recoup something for all the time you have put into this. Unless our gratitude and a hearty cyber handclasp is enough. Just an idle thought.

RICKThanks very much Rick! I'd be lying if I said that this hadn't crossed my mind from time to time. Realistically, I think I need to add a few more sports to my folio first... and then I might start hunting for a sponsor ;)

---- Gavin

[KIPAX]

Apologies. I have asked this question elsewhere on the forum and then realised this is the best place ... oops..have asked mods to remove... So heres the question

I currently use a sigma 120-300 f2.8 for football. I ahve stopped taking the 70-200 as it's not needed with the above.. the 120-300 is so versatile. I am always using the full range.

However it's a sigma zoom .. I have been looking at an affordable Canon 400 L F2.8 (I know its a superior lens hence why looking) However I wondered if that is too long.. your not going to get players head to toe and ball are you (even using portrait) .. unless there at the other side of the pitch and that means more players or officials to block your view...

I know its a better lens.. I know it will be great for cricket and other sports and with an extender then wow.. but lower division grounds is 90% of my work where your not that far away from the pitch.. is it too long.. Please let me know what you think 400 users? Ta

PS non IS .. does that matter if always on a monopod?

[ukhamsterclub]

There obviously are some 400 users on this site and to be fair many of the top pro's use them. It seems to me that the common combo is 400 2.8 - 70 -200 2.8 and maybe a 16-35 behind the goal on remote.

All of the above is fine of course if you happen to making good money from sport, and on that basis it's possible a good investment. Personally I have a 300 2.8 which whilst it can prove to be a little short and can sometimes cause panic "cross over" situations with my 70-200 at footy matches, it is useful in other areas such as motorsport for instance, where it's easier to handhold.

If you are happy with the images you get then really that is what counts and although the right glass helps, in the end its the guy that pointing the camera that really makes the difference.

That's my twopenny worth anyway! ;)


Nigel

[KIPAX]

Yes I am happy and i think the 120-300 is so versatile for footy. But its a never ending struggle to be better and get better equipment.. My wifes kinda given me the go ahead which makes you wonder why i havent eh :) But I am a bit put off by the usability when your near the pitch of a 400. I can take my trusty never to be sold 70-200 but.. hmm I suppose if I am unsure then the answer should be no...

I am arguing with myself arn't I :)

[ukhamsterclub]

Well you are obviously keen to spend some money ( :lol: ),so this was the dillema I faced. I would have loved a 400, just because its a fantastic lens and ultimately if you want to accept bigger assignments I guess at some point you are going to need one. However I wasn't sure I could justify the 5k needed to get one so I had the chance to get a 200 1.8, and thinking about the poorly lit grounds that I struggle to really cover in the depths of winter, I went for that instead.

Used it for an evening game last week....speeds of 1/650 + at 800 ISO ....heaven! :-)



Nigel

[KIPAX]

200 1.8 ? I havent heard of one of them.. what is it.. ie canon or?

[ukhamsterclub]

Yes it is a Canon lens, one which was discontinued a couple of years ago, but is a god send in low light conditions. I posted a shot the other day I took with it. I have to say I didnt really get it with football in mind as much as swimming, as I shoot a fair bit of that.


N

[gmen]

Apologies. I have asked this question elsewhere on the forum and then realised this is the best place ... oops..have asked mods to remove... So heres the question

I currently use a sigma 120-300 f2.8 for football. I ahve stopped taking the 70-200 as it's not needed with the above.. the 120-300 is so versatile. I am always using the full range.

However it's a sigma zoom .. I have been looking at an affordable Canon 400 L F2.8 (I know its a superior lens hence why looking) However I wondered if that is too long.. your not going to get players head to toe and ball are you (even using portrait) .. unless there at the other side of the pitch and that means more players or officials to block your view...

I know its a better lens.. I know it will be great for cricket and other sports and with an extender then wow.. but lower division grounds is 90% of my work where your not that far away from the pitch.. is it too long.. Please let me know what you think 400 users? Ta

PS non IS .. does that matter if always on a monopod?Hi Kipax... Just posted a few thoughts on this over in the sports forum...

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1979742&postcount=7

---- Gavin

[gmen]

Just added some waffling on telling the story of a game over in the Sports forum...

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=218576

Cheers!

---- Gavin

[tghaines]

Hi Gavin,

Love this post. I have tried to searh for this answer with no luck, so sorry if you've covered it already.

I have the 1D MK2 N finally. Interested in your thoughts on Picture Style settings.

I will be shooting motorbikes this weekend in the harsh midday sun with a 70-200 2.8 and 100-400 IS. Curious to know if changes to say contrast and saturation can boost my images a little. eg Sharpen +3 / Contrast -1 / Sat + 1.

I shoot RAW mainly so is it just easier to do all this in PP?

Thanks in advance,

[gmen]

Hi Gavin,

Love this post. I have tried to searh for this answer with no luck, so sorry if you've covered it already.

I have the 1D MK2 N finally. Interested in your thoughts on Picture Style settings.

I will be shooting motorbikes this weekend in the harsh midday sun with a 70-200 2.8 and 100-400 IS. Curious to know if changes to say contrast and saturation can boost my images a little. eg Sharpen +3 / Contrast -1 / Sat + 1.

I shoot RAW mainly so is it just easier to do all this in PP?

Thanks in advance,Hi there Trent!

Thanks for the kind words about the thread. Much appreciated!

If you're going to be shooting in RAW, then there's no harm in experimenting with the picture style settings.

Obviously with the RAWs, you can always change the settings in PP. However, if your chosen in-camera settings are working for you then you can just do a straight batch conversion to jpeg without any other tweaking.

I'd say that the settings you propose are a very good start point: Adding some sharpening is pretty much vital, reducing the contrast will give you some exposure headroom and a bit of additional colour saturation may well be useful in the harsh sun.

Have fun with the MKIIN... I'll look out for your pics over in the MotorSport forum after the weekend!

Cheers!

---- Gavin

[tghaines]

Have fun with the MKIIN... I'll look out for your pics over in the MotorSport forum after the weekend!

Hi Gavin,

Tips worked a charm. Here is the post in motorsports.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=224975

I used Manual all day with the assistance of the Sekonic Meter. When metering was not giving me a good reading (midday) I metered off the grass and chimped to get things right. You are spot on to use manual. I switched to spot metering to see the difference, and you really get skewed reading depending on the colour of the subject. In Manual, Black and White bikes came out perfectly without changing setting.

Gavin - Here's a shot just for you :D
http://trenthaines.myphotos.cc/photos/normal/1dn_1025.jpg

While I had a great day and the photos turned out great, I never realised how much heavier the 1D and 100-400 was to my old 20D setup. I'm a little sore today and regretting not using my monopod:cry: .

Thanks for giving us all your time. I have learned heaps over the past few months.

[gmen]

Hi Everyone!

Given my growing list of current commitments, I feel the time has come to make my last post in this particular thread.

I have enjoyed answering your technical and equipment enquiries relating to sports shooting. However, I think that some of my replies have become repetitive and the time has come to call it a day ;)

Hopefully anyone who comes across this thread will be able to make use of the search tool and may find some useful information. There is, of course, a wealth of similar info to be found in the equipment forums and elsewhere on the net.

Also, many thanks to the other POTN regulars who have contributed. Much appreciated.

I will continue to post a few images from time to time over in the sports section.

Anyway, enough waffling from me! I'll get me coat...

Cheers!

---- Gavin

[PhotosGuy]

Anyway, enough waffling from me! I'll get me coat... And I'll be happy to hold it for you!
Thanks for all the great input, Gavin! http://photo.klein-jensen.dk/smilies/0063.gif This thread covered 14 pages! I wonder if that's a new record?

Here are some links for those who would like some additional reading:

More from Gavin: Sports Photography... it's all about LIGHT ;) (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=142078)

Sports Shooting Tutorials and Advice
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=135417

American High School Football Question.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=112265

AF Point selection for sports
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=112654

Team Photos -- Techniques and Results
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=112409
Editorial portraiture by Neil Turner
http://www.dg28.com/technique.html

1D MKIIN - First Pics
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=112545

Another "help me what do I do thread" (Sports Flash indoors - Good stuff from Gavin)
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=113074

"Shooting Football with Robert Hanashiro"
http://www.sportsshooter.com/special_feature/2004_luau_video/shooting_football/index.html
And my sad but "client pleasing" results: “Mother's, Don't Let Your Daughters Grow Up To Be Football Players.”
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=75062

Hoops... dungeon... two flashes... in colour...
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=135571

Baseball Shooting Tips and Example Pics
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=136949

Ice Hockey- Tips?
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=142856

Golf: A Photographers' Etiquette Course
http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/826

Peter Read Miller's Pro shooting tips - Don't overlook the links at the right side.
SI has 12 guys for the Super Bowl!
http://consumer.usa.canon.com/app/html/NFL/shootingtips.html

Newspaper Sports Questions!
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=145984

Air Show Photography
You're going to have to get below 1/250 for a good prop blur. Do a search for "Threads started by" Marauder61 for some inspiration. Or look at his gallery which has the exif data: Marauder61 (http://www.pbase.com/marauder61/biplane_class)

Posted by peacock: " I always try to shoot the prop plane @ less than 1/125..."
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=209768

CREDENTIALS
Press Pass - real or false.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=125619
Media Passes?
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=183730

YOU CAN'T TAKE PICS HERE!
Banned from taking pictures?
Banned from taking pictures? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=167941)
Another one... (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=168352)
The Photographer's Right - A Downloadable Flyer (http://www.krages.com/phoright.htm)

PHOTOGRAPHERS RIGHTS -
USA Today posted these links in this article: "New digital camera? Know how, where you can use it"
http://www.usatoday.com/tech/columnist/andrewkantor/2005-12-29-camera-laws_x.htm
Photographers' Guide to Privacy by Reporters Committee for Freedom of the Press.
http://www.rcfp.org/photoguide
Journalists' Right of Privacy Primer by attorney Mark Sableman.
http://www.mobar.org/press/medhnbk3.htm
Bert P. Krages, an attorney in Portland, Ore., and author of the Legal Handbook for Photographers. A printable pdf file.
http://www.krages.com/phoright.htm
American Law Institute's A Concise Restatement of Torts on the Harvard Law website.
http://www.usatoday.com/tech/columnist/andrewkantor/cyber.law.harvard.edu/privacy/Privacy_R2d_Torts_Sections.htm
FreedomToPhotograph.com was created to allow photographers to tell their stories
The UK Photographers Rights Guide.
http://www.sirimo.co.uk/ukpr.php
Shooting a pet show: need advice on the situation
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=168352

COPYRIGHT:
You can put all your small jpegs on a CD & copyright them as a group for only $45 in the US. Then you're in for big $s if someone uses them without permission which gives you a "big stick" if you tell someone to remove them.

Copyrighting Your Images and Deterring Image Theft
http://www.rickbakerimages.com/photography_advice/copyrighting_your_images.html

http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/chapter9/index.html

10 Big Myths about copyright explained
http://www.templetons.com/brad/copymyths.html

A compendium of resources on copyright - Editorial photographers links
http://www.editorialphoto.com/copyright/

UK
http://www.patent.gov.uk/copy/definition.htm
Australia
http://www.copyright.com.au/membership.htm
http://www.ag.gov.au/agd/WWW/securitylawHome.nsf/Page/Publications_Intellectual_Property_A_Short_Guide_t o_Copyright#5

Dave Black Photography - take a look at the workshop archives link
http://www.daveblackphotography.com/
Press Photos.com
http://www.press-photos.com/
London Freelance.org
http://media.gn.apc.org/
Editorial Photographers UK
http://www.epuk.org/
STROBE & SPORTS
http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=18757
http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=19027
http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=13554
http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=14727
http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/81
High School Gym Lighting
http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/82

[DwightMcCann]

Talk about somethin' to bring a tear to the eye! Hey, DreamCricket.com sent me my own cricket ball in return for use of some images that I don't think they are even using. I would never have shot 'the perfect game' without your help and encouragement (wait, maybe I shouldn't be thanking you ... eh, er, ah, um, oh well). If you don't continue posting in Sports I will have to encourage some of your countrymen to make you an offer you can't refuse. :rolleyes:

[KIPAX]

To Gavin (gmen)
Photography changed in such a big way when I found this forum and your advice. I am still learning from it and will be for a long time. I owe you and if there was anything I could say or do to repay you I would. But there is only this that seems so inadequate.. but here it is anyway... THANK YOU

[Hydro]

Gavin,
I have learned so much from your postings, and appreciate the encouragment and advice you have selflessly contributed to us all.

Thanks,

RICK

[mij]

Gavin, sorry it has taken me so long to get back to this thread, I hope you do not think it rude that I did not thank you sooner for your reply. It seems to me that being a professional photographer is as much about being a professional as it is knowing how to take the shots so thanks for indulging me.

Thanks for your time on this thread, it was very interesting reading.

Michael.

[just getting started]

Please forgive me as I am new to the forum as well as photography.

I purchased a Canon Powershot S2IS a year ago. I am trying to figure out how to take pictures that do not have something wrong with them. I have young kids in sports and would like to take action shots. I am becoming frustrated very quickly. I happily picked up some tips on this forum and tried to apply them. Unfortunatley I'm not getting it. I have attempted the last 2 weeks to take basketball pictures. If I use the AV setting I get enough light and blurry pics. If I use the TV setting I get dark pics. I tried the Manual setting with multiple adjustement to the f and shutter speed without any luck. Is there a photography for dummies or other avenue I can learn?

I would also like to take close up pictures but am unsure if there is a telephoto wide lense available.

Any suggestions/tips will be most appreciated.

[PhotosGuy]

I tried the Manual setting with multiple adjustement to the f and shutter speed without any luck. Is there a photography for dummies or other avenue I can learn? See if this sheds some light on using M settings:
Virtual Camera (http://www.photonhead.com/simcam/)

[jerry22]

Hi,
I have a question about how to capture a quick moving shot. Something that you aren't already focused on, like maybe at the other end of a close play in basketball or football.
Something that is a real quick snap-shot that needs instant focusing
Thanks,
Jerry22

[jim9449]

Great thread

[PhotosGuy]

Sorry if I missed this in the 14 pages of this thread, Gavin, but how do you handle captioning when you have a tight deadline & you have 500 shots to upload? Or do you just batch in general info?

[LMP]

Sorry if I missed this in the 14 pages of this thread, Gavin, but how do you handle captioning when you have a tight deadline & you have 500 shots to upload? Or do you just batch in general info?

Frank,

On a deadline typically there will only be a max amount of shots required. 10-20 as an average figure so captioning isnt a big deal. You will usually have a template setup before hand that you can have Photomechanic/Fotostation apply to the pics as they are ingested to the laptop. From there it's just a simple matter of adding the players names and a brief description of the action.

HTH
Marc

[PhotosGuy]

Thanks, Marc.

[athy]

Hi there, just joining POTN recently, really great read here in is thread, enjoying it so much, thanks so much for all the efforts from the group of the many masters like Gavin here. Really appreciated it.

Here i got a tough decision and yet to make it clear for any action to follow...

I am currently looking at two lenses for indoor sports(most likely be basketball at lowlight...), the 50mm f/1.4 and the 85mm f/1.8, they cost similiar, and thats making the decision even tougher... I've researched on these two lenses for a good length of time, but just don't have a clear winner. The biggest problem is that i have never put either one on my camera and actually test them to see which one suits the indoor basketball scenario best...

Please give me some advise! :cry:

Or, alternatively, should i get a cheaper 50mm f/1.8 II to 'replace' the 50mm f/1.4, and then get the 85mm f/1.8 too...??

Oh... scratching my head again... @@

[mpbutlersr48]

If I dont have spot metering, I have the XTI, what metering mode is best for Baseball?

[PhotosGuy]

See post #168.