Lenses and Shutter speeds - simple question on EOS10D

[rtwwpad]

Hi All

Right, I bought my nice shiny new EOS10D on the weekend and what a lovely toy it is. I do miss the old eye controlled focus on EOS5, which I thought it had but never the less I can still choose my focus point.

Anyway, my question is what do I do wrt to shutter speeds and lenses with this 1.6x multiplier the EOS10D has.

If I have a 100mm lens on my EOS5 film camera, I would have to ensure I shoot at at least 1/125sec to ensure no camera shake for handholding. Now on the new EOS10D my lens is the equivalent of a 160mm lens. Do i know need to make sure i shoot at 1/250sec to ensure no camera shake or is it some internal magnification effect I dont have to worry about and I keep shooting at the old 1/125sec speed.

Any help to clear up this issue, greatly appreciated. Called Canon and they got very confused with their answer.

Kind regards
Phil

[David Wild]

You will need to use the higher shutter speed - any movement will be magnified just as the image is.

[RichardtheSane]

I disagree.

The image itself is not optically magnified any more when using the 10D over the EOS 5. All that is happening is the 10D is using a smaller area of the lens (which means less of the light entering the lens) to create the image, thus giving the illusion of greater magnfication.
The lens is not magnifying the image any more so there is no need to increase your shutter speed to compensate.
:D

[Jeppe]

Yes.. im with Richard here, there is no magnification with the 10D (if it where so, an Macro 1:1 would be 1.6:1, wich its not). Its a crop (compared to 35mm), acually its the FOV (Field Of View) that is cropped and therefor, no magnification is applied.

Picture to the left is EF 100/2.8 Macro USM @ 1/100
Picture to the right is same lens @ 1/250

Both pictures handheld (ofcourse)

Crop from 100%

http://www.naturfotografen.net/10D/ef100.jpg

[chris maddock]

Both Richard and Jeppe are right - and both are wrong ;-)

It is true that there is no magnification change - at the sensor level. However, a print taken to the same size from a 10D sensor as opposed to from a full-frame sensor (or film) will be magnified more, as will any visible effects of shake.

Also bear in mind that the 1/f "rule" is nothing but a rule of thumb, and will be effective to different degrees for different people, and indeed for any one person will vary depending on lens weight, fatigue, time of day, quantity of coffee (or other stimulants) ingested, etc., etc.

KRs
Chris

[Jeppe]

Hmm but when there is no shake on CMOS-image, there can be no shake on print...

Or maybe i just have a steady hand ;)

[chris maddock]

Jeppe wrote:
Hmm but when there is no shake on CMOS-image, there can be no shake on print...

No argument there - what I am saying is that IF there is any degree of shake it will be magnified more to get the same print size as from a full-frame.
If, for example, you'd taken those shots at 1/50 or 1/25 there may well have been a degree of shake, which would show up more when printed from a 10D to the same size from a 1DS. It's just like with depth of field - the target is to achieve what is "acceptable" sharpness.


Or maybe i just have a steady hand ;)

Very likely - some people can regularly get away with half or even a quarter of the "recommended" shutter speed. The "rule" is simply a guideline that has become popular because it fits the majority of people.

KRs
Chris

[CyberDyneSystems]

As the 10D's image is in essence a crop from a 35mm frame,. it is still blown up in print/viewing. Any "shake" will be magnified.


The other thing to keep in mind,. is that many insist that the 10D's images are clearer and thus will show defects more readily than 35mm film. I have no idea if this is true,. but a lot of people are saying this. So the magnification factor is not just on 100 vs. 160mm it is possibly the increased clrity to show the camera shake.