LinearSharpen 1

[Pekka]

Hi,

For all you who use Linear RAW format and Photoshop 6:

I found a new powerful way to get really sharp photos. Nearly unvisible halos, very strong sharpness if needed. It actually sharpens middle colors, too, and sharpens highlights as they are instead of expanding them like most actions do. It really digs the sharpness out from photos and makes more MTF :) No kidding, really.

It would not have been possible without Fred's Linear ICC profile (which you have to have installed), my LinearConvert action and a Lab color version of Fred's older Edgesharpen. The actual method which makes this whole thing work so nicely is that the sharpening is done in 16-bit for _nearly_ linear image, the original idea, which I adapted and improved, came from Timo Autionkari's webpages. I combined all this together in one action package. So thanks to Fred and Timo!

Basically you just give it a Linear TIFF, run the action (make sure Fred's Linear ICC profile is installed), set two levels for edges when asked (have them strong!) and you're done.

There are 4 different sharpener versions, which are explained in manual included :)

Workflow example is at
http://photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/workflow/

Check it out:
http://photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/LinearSharpen_1.atn and let me know what you think. Hope you find it useful.

Here's an original crop, which is Linear TIFF converted with my LinearAction, unsharpened:

http://photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/CRW_7515_00001.jpg

Here's that converted photo sharpened with Fred's haloless "ES-8-bit". Nice but still a bit soft here and there.

http://photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/CRW_7515_00001_ES8.jpg

Here's "LinearSharpen 1" action vr.2, straight from Linear TIFF (conversion and sharpening in one step):

http://photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/CRW_7515_00001_LS_1_2.jpg

Pekka

[beach512]

Thanks for sharing this. Looks terrific!! I am going to try it out tonight.

Dave

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Pekka,

Well done for putting all the pieces together! I have messing with both Timo's and Fred's stuff over the last few days, but didn't manage anything like this.

I have just run the action on a couple of images I was experimenting with - just superb results.

Regards,

Roger

[beach512]

Me too.
I ran a test with it and without and printed it out. Because I am new to shooting RAW, I had not yet found out the benefits of it. This has me convinced.
Now I see it clearly with my own eyes. WOW!!
To those who still shoot JPEG, shoot a few RAW images, convert to 16bit linear. Try this out and see the world of difference.

Great job Pekka and thanks !!


Dave

[Torben]

No chance you'll make this action available for PS 5.5 ... or does it use functions notavailable in this version?

[Pekka]

Torben wrote:
No chance you'll make this action available for PS 5.5 ... or does it use functions notavailable in this version?

I don't think it'll be possible in 5.5. The action uses Lab mode and USM in 16-bit linear mode.

Pekka

[Roger_Cavanagh]

As an illustration of how well Pekka's action works, I have added a new gallery to my site:

http://www.rogercavanagh.com/banff/index_1.htm

All the images were subjected to the LinearSharpen action with NO OTHER PROCESSING in Photoshop or anything else.

I think it shows what an amazing job Pekka has done.

Cheers,

Roger

[Inactive Member 04]

Sorry for my ignorance - but I do not understand what a linear or non-linear profile is or how I should use them. I have been setting up my system for color management since I got my D30 a couple of weeks ago. Have calibrated the monitor, fighting with printer calibration, and not sure how to use the D30 icc profiles. Would appreciate an explanation.
Thank you
Sean

[Pekka]

Version 1.01 fixes some color clipping (oversaturation) and better yellow/green tones (because a yellow clipping fix was removed!).

http://photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Sean wrote:
Sorry for my ignorance - but I do not understand what a linear or non-linear profile is or how I should use them. I have been setting up my system for color management since I got my D30 a couple of weeks ago. Have calibrated the monitor, fighting with printer calibration, and not sure how to use the D30 icc profiles. Would appreciate an explanation.
Thank you
Sean

Sean,

Apologies if I repeat anything you already know, but you do say you haven't had your D30 v long :-).

First thing to do is visit www.breezesys.com, get the free Downloader and cough up $35 for BreezeBrowser. If you haven't already decided, ZoomBrowser is a dog, stop using it and use BB instead. It is a super piece of software.

In the following waffle, I am making the assumption that you are interested in the best quality images.

WRT TIFF, if you are shooting raw (CRW image files are produced) then you must convert the files before you can edit them. Since you mention fussing with calibration, I presume you are not a tyro taking pix with the autosetting. :-) If you are, you don't get a choice. The D30 will record JPG image files.

The problem with JPG files is that while they save disk space, they do so at the cost of image quality. Colours that are very similar are made identical. When the image data are compressed this saves space, but can produce visible artefacts in your beautiful pictures. :-(

Shooting in raw format avoids this compromise, but the expense of needing a bigger CF card (money makes the world go around, world go around...). I have a 1gb microdrive, which will hold around 800 high quality JPG images, but less than 300 images in CRW format. You then have the choice of converting to TIFF or JPG before you can edit. Here's the first benefit (even if you convert to JPG): during the conversion process you can alter the white balance, contrast, saturation, and sharpness settings that you used when you took the picture. So you can change your mind after the event.

(I didn't understand about raw files when I first got my D30, and I shot bunch of JPG images, I could do so much more with, if only...)

You will still suffer from the data loss issue WRT JPG files. A problem that is exacerbated each time you edit and save a JPG file. I know some people do an inital conversion to JPG because they can do some quick and dirty processing to get an idea of what they've got.

I recommend that you convert to TIFF. This format will not compromise image quality, but it will produce much bigger files. Approximating somewhat, a raw file will be around 3mb, a JPG 1-1.5 mb, an 8-bit TIFF about 9mb and a 16-bit about 18mb.

But you still have a choice... 8-bit, 16-bit or linear (a special case of 16-bit). Although many of Photoshop's functions will only work with 8-bit images, I still recommend starting with 16-bit. The D30 records 12-bit image data, so you also throw data away when you convert to 8-bit. Starting with 16-bit gives you the max possible image quality. In PS, you can do a lot of processing, levels, curves, USM - a lot of the really key stuff - in 16-bit. So do as much as you can in 16-bit before you convert to 8-bit (if you really have to).

Moving to linear: at this point I must confess, I don't really understand the internal workings of the various formats, but what the hey? I can't build an internal combustion engine, but I still drive a car. :-)

As I understand it, the linear format is as close to the raw image data that we can get. When you look at a linear TIFF you see the image is very dark, no colour balancing, no b/w points set, blah, blah, blah. But the maximum possible image data for us to do our thing with. I think the jury is still out on whether it's best to use linear in every situation. Before Pekka's action, I would have said that linear is helpful to use when there is a big dark or bright area in the image. However, having seen the results from my first trials with LinearSharpen I will definitely be looking at my workflow to consider using linear all the time or, at least, as the first option.

In order to use the image data efectively from the D30, you need a colour profile. There are a few free ones about, but I use the ones that Fred Miranda has developed (www.fredmiranda.com). Using the normal TIFF format, you assign the appropriate profile (there are high and low contrasts variations) and convert to your preferred Adobe colour space when you load the image. The linear version is slightly different. It has been found that better results are gained from a two-stage process:

1) Assign the linear profile without converting to an Adobe working space
2) Apply the PS action that Fred supplies along with the profile

Pekka has gone one stage version, by incorporating sharpening into the the 2nd stage. As I have mentioned, the results are excellent, but there may be other considerations. For instance, suppose you want to upsize to produce a larger print. Most experts advise upsizing before sharpening. Or there is still version colour correction needed.

Pekka, if you've bothered to read this far, I should be interested in your comments.

Hope this clears some confusion.

Regards,

Roger

[beach512]

Roger - Thanks for taking the time to provide good information. I liked your new gallery too. I wish the photos were a bit bigger though to be able to see the detail that you captured.

Dave

[Roger_Cavanagh]

beach512 wrote:
Roger - Thanks for taking the time to provide good information. I liked your new gallery too. I wish the photos were a bit bigger though to be able to see the detail that you captured.

Dave


Dave,

Thanks for the compliment. Actually, if you click on the larger image a bigger one will appear, but you only get told that from the galleries main index.

Guess I need to do some site maintenance (bashful grin).

Roger

[Inactive Member 04]

Roger - thank you for the great information. I am starting to get a handle on all the aspects of color managment. I have been using the actions and I am creating a workflow to make us of them. Thanks again

[Pekka]

Roger_Cavanagh wrote:
1) Assign the linear profile without converting to an Adobe working space
2) Apply the PS action that Fred supplies along with the profile

Pekka has gone one stage version, by incorporating sharpening into the the 2nd stage. As I have mentioned, the results are excellent, but there may be other considerations. For instance, suppose you want to upsize to produce a larger print. Most experts advise upsizing before sharpening. Or there is still version colour correction needed.

Pekka, if you've bothered to read this far, I should be interested in your comments.


Nice post, thanks Roger.

Only things I'd like to add:

- 16-bit linear TIFF is white-balanced, and it's as important as with other modes to get WB right before conversion.

- if you need resized images, do the resizing to the linear image and then sharpen.

- Linearsharpen needs a 16-bit Linear RAW as input and what's "new" in it is that the sharpening is done to linear, or "half" linear image. That way USM works almost without artifacts. The "half" linear means that as you need two curves to correct gamma to PC, you use only one curve, sharpen, and then use the second curve. This makes black halos, result of strong sharpening in linear mode, less visible while still keeping white halos unnoticed. LS vr.1 sharpens linear, LS vr.2 sharpens "half" linear.

Linearsharpen vr.1 does:
1. sharpening in "Edgesharpen 16-style" (an old idea which was improved from UltraSharpen Pro by Fred), to Lab mode lightness channel.
2. very slight overall USM
3. gamma correction curve step 1
4. gamma correction curve step 2
5. adding Fred's color correction ICC profile
6. convert to Adobe RGB
7. boosting saturation a bit
8. convert to sRGB

Linearsharpen vr.2 does:
1. gamma correction curve step 1
2. sharpening in "Edgesharpen 16-style" to Lab mode lightness channel.
3. very slight overall USM
4. gamma correction curve step 2
5. adding Fred's color correction ICC profile
6. convert to Adobe RGB
7. boosting saturation a bit
8. convert to sRGB

Versions 3 and 4 have "very slight overall USM" -step removed.

You can back up from step 8 in history if you need to save a print version, that's why there's two profilings in the end: for easy target media choosing.
You can also change step 6 to you own print profile.

If you need to change the actual sharpening setting (USM), there is a "toggle dialog on/off" button (square) left to unsharp mask step. If you tick it on the action asks for USM settings every time you run it. This gives even more flexibility, but to me the default setting seems to work just fine so I left it "unticked" by default.

[jonsimpson]

Hey Guys:
Will all of the above (below?) work with Photoshop 5.5?

There are some of us who just blew a couple thou on a digital camera
and are BROKE now for the $200 Version 6 upgrade.

He he.

Jon Simpson

[Pekka]

jonsimpson wrote:
Hey Guys:
Will all of the above (below?) work with Photoshop 5.5?

There are some of us who just blew a couple thou on a digital camera
and are BROKE now for the $200 Version 6 upgrade.

He he.

Jon Simpson

Sadly no because only version 6 can handle 16-bit Lab mode and USM. But you can use ICC profiles, curves and do conversions in 5.5.

Pekka

[portraitphotog]

Pekka, I'm a portrait photographer photographing teens and I almost always have to use the clone tools, masking, and gaussian blur on the teens to make them look nice. My question is since most of these tools only work in 8 bit mode in PS, will your sharpen routine work for me?

I've always been taught the very last thing you do in your workflow before your final save is to sharpen then. If I'm going to be working in 16 bit linear mode before converting to 8 bit so I can use all my tools, then that means the sharpening will have to come first.....I'm starting to get a little confused here and please excuse my naivity/ignorance of some of the workflows.

Another thing, my labs only accepts 8 bit tiffs, so....as long as I convert, that's not a problem.

I've installed the "canon EOS D30 Linear Raw NC1a" icc profile, but the profile or colorspace I'm set up in is my monitor calibrated one using my monitor spyder. Am I supposed to change that???

What I would like to do is perform all the retouching I'm normally acustomed to doing and apply your sharpening method to my images also. I also want to make sure through the actions that rather than apply the sRGB to my images, apply my monitor callibration which is essentially sRGB but changed very slightly to calibrate for my monitor. The very last thing I do is convert to the lab's profile before burning a CD and sending the images off. Given all of this, do you think your sharpening routine will still work for me or do you think I should stay with the PS6.01 unsharpen method I have been using. Sorry for the ramblings.....

I think I will need some clarification from you or your readers perhaps. Your results certainly speak for themselves as they are unbelievable to say the least. How do you argue with success? But, if I can incorporate your sharpening method into my workflow somehow, I think it will greatly improve my final images. Thanks for providing a great service to us D30 owners. My compliments on your visually stimulating webpage development and your stunning images on your homepages!

Jon

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Jon,

I'm sure Pekka will respond, but in the mean time I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth. I don't have complete answers,

but mainly some suggestions.


I've installed the "canon EOS D30 Linear Raw NC1a" icc profile, but the profile or colorspace I'm set up in is my monitor

calibrated one using my monitor spyder. Am I supposed to change that???

No, you don't need to change that. The profile simply provides a good "translation" of the D30 image data to whatever working profile you wish to use.


I almost always have to use the clone tools, masking, and gaussian blur on the teens to make them look nice.My question is since most of these tools only work in 8 bit mode in PS, will your sharpen routine work for me?

Oh, those troublesome zits! :)

Have you considered running Pekka's action manually step-by-step to see at what point you could insert the additional steps you require for your workflow?

If it turns out that it's not possible to do this, you could consider using Pekka's LinearAction (available to download from this page:

http://www.photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/

This provides conversion using the same linear profile, but does not do sharpening.

WRT to sharpening, you could certainly incorporate the same principles as Pekka. If you examine the action you will see that he does sharpening in 2 passes: the first, stronger pass sharpens edges in the lightness channel of lab mode and the second pass apply a lighter USM to the entire RGB image.

Hope this gives you some ideas to work with.

Regards,

Roger
www.rogercavanagh.com

[Dane]

I have been trying out the Fred Miranda D30 profile with Pekka Linear Sharpen action and what I am finding is significant oversaturation and my blacks have a blue cast especially in the hair. I can see the noise reduction from the sharpening when compared to an image with just the USM used but the color is way off. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I am going wrong. My white balance is set to Auto when taking the shot and I usually get a slight magenta cast. I have applied Fred Miranda's auto WB action and this has virtually no effect. The lips are pink, the hair has too much of a blue tint and they are oversaturated.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Dane

[Pekka]

Dane wrote:
I have been trying out the Fred Miranda D30 profile with Pekka Linear Sharpen action and what I am finding is significant oversaturation and my blacks have a blue cast especially in the hair. I can see the noise reduction from the sharpening when compared to an image with just the USM used but the color is way off. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I am going wrong. My white balance is set to Auto when taking the shot and I usually get a slight magenta cast. I have applied Fred Miranda's auto WB action and this has virtually no effect. The lips are pink, the hair has too much of a blue tint and they are oversaturated.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Dane

You get such problems if the "Canon EOS D30 Linear Raw NC1a" profile is applied twice to the image (for some reason only Photoshop knows). I've seen it happen once on my machine, right after installing a duplicate entry of the profile to the system.

See that color management in your system or Photoshop does not have "Canon EOS D30 Linear Raw NC1a" set anywhere, and that you don't have duplicate entries (same profile by different names) in system ICC folder (you can search in Windows for *.icm for color profiles, in Windows 2000 they are in C:WINNTsystem32spooldriverscolor)

Always reboot after you've changed system ICC profiles.

On Windows 2000 you can right click a profile (ICC file) and choose "install" if it's not installed and "uninstall" if it is already installed.

[Dane]

Thanks for the answer,

The problem was that I was adding Freds Profile first then applying your action. I finally saw in a post about a month ago where you explained this to Roger Cav. When I stopped assigning Freds profile, the image looks very good.

Thanks.

Dane

[Pekka]

Dane wrote:
Thanks for the answer,

The problem was that I was adding Freds Profile first then applying your action. I finally saw in a post about a month ago where you explained this to Roger Cav. When I stopped assigning Freds profile, the image looks very good.

Thanks.



Dane,

Good to hear you have solved the problem,

Happy Holidays,

Pekka

[Dane]

Pekka,

Pardon me if this is a stupid question but when the action stops at the edge mask, do we insert the levels you have illustrated in your workflow example. I am not sure if there is some sort of visual cue we look for to get the level correct or if there is a defined amount. Also, how do we batch this action? I am very new to the use of actions and am not sure how to batch this if it stops during the action and needs a level added.

Thanks,

Dane

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Dane,

I have put a worked example on my web site at:

http://www.rogercavanagh.com/tips/t09_si.htm

This deals with the question you raise.

Regards,

Roger

[oops]

Roger,

You have a lot of time in this action and have posted some great tips on your website. Thank you for your response and the hours I know you must have in this. If your pictures didn't look so darned good using it I wouldn't waste a little more of your time. 8)

Please let me step you through what I see on my screen and you can tell me where I need to get a lot smarter:

1. I load a linear tiff into Photoshop v6.01, highlight LS vr2 and click "play"

2. The first box is Curves. I notice right away it is not the straight line I am used to adjusting but has a radical curve that I feel I shouldn't touch. I don't, and click "ok"

3. Next is "Duplicate Image (Duplicate 8bit image)", clueless (me) clicks "ok".

4. Next box is "New Layer (original)", clueless clicks "ok".

5. Next is "Duplicate Layer (temp layer)", clueless clicks "shure, why not?"

6. Next box is "Channel Mixer (Gray)", clueless clicks "of course it should be gray".

7. Next is "New Channel (Edges mask)", clueless clicks "here we go!".

8. Next box you have explained: Levels (Edges Mask), clueless knows what to do here! Thanks, Roger!

9. Next is "Gaussian Blur", clueless wants to know what a Gaussian is? Russian or French? Do they have chocolate? Click "ok"

10. Levels again! Thanks, Roger, I make adjustments and moved on.

11. "Load Selection (Duplicate 8bit image", What? Click "ok".

12. Next is "Adobe Photoshop (Save changes to 8bit image?", Click "No!" Clueless decides he must take a stand!

13. "Unsharp Mask", if it's wet, and it's sticky, and it's not yours, leave it alone. Click "ok".

14. "Unsharp Mask", this is really starting to worry me. Click "ok" for lack of a clue what to do. Hope this thing doesn't crash or lock up!

15. Next box is "Curves Again", I'm on a roll; "ok".

16. "Assign Profile (Canon EOS D30 Linear Raw NC1a)", I think I need this, click "ok".

17. Next "Hue/Saturation (Edit: Master- Hue=0, Sat=+28, Lightness=0)", if you don't know what it does, don't touch it. Click "ok".

18. "Convert To Profile (ADOBE RGB (1998)), good year, "ok".

19. "Convert To Profile (sRGB IEC1966-2.1)", 1966 was also a good year, groovey, click "ok".

20. Done.

The image looks good but there were so many clueless choices I am afraid I might be missing a lot here, even though I had a lot of fun running the action. Am I clueless or on the right track? I will study whatever you suggest if you will point me in the right direction.

Thanks, Chris

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Chris,

Hi, first thing to say is that you shouldn't be getting all those dialog boxes for each step of the action. Have you, by any chance, checked the dialog box against the action:

http://www.rogercavanagh.com/Graphics/temp/ls1.gif

It's shown red here because there are a couple of steps that do require user intervention:

http://www.rogercavanagh.com/Graphics/temp/ls2.gif

These are the two levels that relate (eventually) the sharpening steps.

I checked Photoshop Bible, and this is the only way I could find that you would get all these dialog boxes appearing. If that's not the cause, then hopefully someone else will chime in.

oops said:

If your pictures didn't look so darned good using it I wouldn't waste a little more of your time.


Thank you. I've said it before, but I'll say it again: Pekka's action has improved the quality of my images fantastically.

So, apart from the two levels adjustments you don't really need to worry about what else is going on. But, in broad overview:

- The first few steps create and 8-bit version of the image that is used to identify edges for sharpening. Although you can't make selections in16-bit, you can load an existing selection created on an identical image.

- The next steps find the edges and fiddle around with the "thickness" of the edges.

- Then we sharpen, strong on edges (in lightness channel) and light overall.

- Then we do all the profile stuff.

oops wrote:
19. "Convert To Profile (sRGB IEC1966-2.1)", 1966 was also a good year, groovey, click "ok".


I think this step could be optional. Fine, if you are going to work with web images, but for printing I think it might be better to stay with AdobeRGB.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Roger
www.rogercavanagh.com

[oops]

Fantastic example, thanks again Roger. I love your screen captures; this is the very best way to teach any software routine.

You are absolutely right, the problem is my newness to PS in general and especially beyound LE where "Actions" are finally possible. When I purchased v6.0 I couldn't wait to load it and begin applying Pekka's Linear Action. I was simply highlighting vr2 and clicking "play". It has, in retrospect, given me a whole picture of what is happening in the background of this action and just how much went into creating it. It is kind of like popping the hood for a closer look at what we don't understand. Thanks again for your timely and expert response.

Chris

[MrPaulJ]

Hi.

I am having a problem with the Action. I have 'Installed' Fred's Linear Profile by using the right mouse button and using 'Install' to get the ICC profile into Windows and therefore (I believe) Photoshop. I have then downloaded Pekka's 'Tiff' file as a test and run the action.

But... what I get is a very jaundiced (red missing) result.

In contrast to the 'Web' picture the skin tone has no red or pink to it.

Am I missing something?

The Action does prompt for a working colour space at the end, but if I leave it as unmanaged it looks pretty awful. The only profile that comes close is 'Wide Gamut RGB' which adds to much red!

Can someone explain what I have missed. Photoshop is a new product to me so maybe it's a setup problem?

Kind Regards,

Paul.

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Paul,

Did you by any chance apply the profile when you opened the file? You should choose "No colour management" as the ICC profile is applied as part of the action. You get some pretty wacky effects when the profile is applied twice, though for some images there is hardly a noticeable effect.

Regards,

Roger
www.rogercavanagh.com

[MrPaulJ]

Roger.

In my setup I am prompted for profiles to be applied - I choose 'Do not Color Manage'.

Does it matter what the settings are for your 'Preferences'?

When I installed the product I 'Avoided' that question and the product set itself up for 'WEB Colour', which did not ask the question. I have since changed that setup and I am now asked, but the colour problem remains the same.

Maybe it's a fundamental 'from the start' setup problem, but without further information it's a mystery.

Many thanks for your help so far.

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Paul,

Most experts (I'm not including myself in that, I've just read it in lotsa places:) ) recommend Adobe RGB as the default working space because it has a wider colour gamut than sRGB which is what is used for web. I read something earlier today that described it as the "lowest common denominator". :)

Once you have loaded the file, if you choose Image>Mode>Assign Profile does the dialogue box show "no colour management"?

BTW (and this is an "is it plugged in?" question :) ), you did download the TIFF version of Pekka's example not the JPG on display?

Otherwise I am bereft of ideas. :(

Why don't you post an image of your results. May be someone will have some ideas?

Cheers,

Roger
www.rogercavanagh.com

[MrPaulJ]

Roger.

Thanks again for the swift response.

Yep, it shows 'No profile assigned'. I checked and I have the CRW_7515_00001.tif file, which I believe is the correct one.

Can I post the file in here? There does not seem to be an 'Insert'!

Kind Regards,

Paul.

[MrPaulJ]

Roger et al.

See the image here...

http://www.pbase.com/image/900224

Kind Regards,

Paul.

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Paul,

I see what you mean about the jaundice. Pekka clearly needs a new liver. :) I downloaded the test file and got a result exactly like Pekka's.


The Action does prompt for a working colour space at the end, but if I leave it as unmanaged it looks pretty awful. The only profile that comes close is 'Wide Gamut RGB' which adds to much red!

I just noticed this remark in your first post, which puzzles me. My copy of LS does not ask for a profile. Towards the end (of vr2) AdobeRGB is assigned automatically, there's a hue adjustment, the sRGB is assigned. Have you tried reinstalling the action in case something has been corrupted?

Cheers,

Roger

[MrPaulJ]

Roger.

Ok, Today has been the day to try and sort this out.

Firstly, this morning I upgraded Photoshop 6.0 to 6.0.1 with a download from Adobe (on my Windows XP laptop). Immediately the Action stopped asking the final 'Color Space' question that I had mentioned.

I re-ran the action and it looked better, but LCD screens are no great shakes when it comes to colour matching.

So, when I got home I upgraded the Windows ME system to 6.01 as well - aarrgghhh it didn't fix it!

Ok, I have really had enough now so I de-installed Photoshop.

Then I followed this track.

Check WINDOWSSYSTEMCOLOR and remove Fred's profiles
Remove Program Filesadobephotoshop 6 directory
Re-boot to ensure no profiles loaded

Re-install Photoshop 6 - Reboot
Upgrade to 6.01 - Reboot
Install Freds NC1 linear action - Reboot
Start Photoshop - Install Pekka's 1.01 action
Set Colour Management to use WEB - but preserve existing profiles and use sRBG.

Open the TIFF file and get asked the question - choose don't colour manage

Run the action - hey presto no Colour Space question - but, there is always a but - have you noticed?

The colour is better but to my eye still red deficient!

I have uploaded the new file as a JPG here http://www.pbase.com/image/909134

Can you tell me what you think.

I suppose the question I have is does the colour management you choose for Photoshop affect the image?

Kind regards,

Paul.

[MrPaulJ]

Roger.

Just an update. I noticed that after all the previous stuff, if I then use image>mode>assign profile and choose Adobe RGB (1998) the red comes back and the image looks like the web based picture.

Am I selecting the wrong colour space to start with?

Kind Regards,

Paul.

[kenthomson]

Can the Action be automated?

I thought I had done so by choosing default values for the two instances where it asks for a levels adjustment, and I was _certain_ I had run a batch.

However, it now stops at those points, even though I have unchecked the relevant boxes and inserted defaults. Any ideas?

[Pekka]

MrPaulJ wrote:
I suppose the question I have is does the colour management you choose for Photoshop affect the image?

Yes it does. You should always export images to web with applied profile "sRGB". Else other people don't see your colors correctly unless they view the photos in the profile your had applied prior to export. If you print the photos you could work with any profile, better ask from print service what they prefer - the one I use (only in Finland) has a dowloadable one on their server.

I think the last image you posted has some other color space applied than SRGB, that's why it looks a bit yellowish in normal browser. Check what your display settings say, maybe you have an odd profile there, which was installed with the monitor's driver?

I use PS 6.01 with color management off - it's ok that way....

[MrPaulJ]

Pekka.

Thanks. I have learned quite a lot over the past 3-4 days. I now understand what is required to get the images looking correct to my eyes.

Your action is very good and I have been able to get accurate photos from both AWB and Custom photo's taken with my D30.

I must also thank Roger, who's patience helped me to see my way clear to the end of the solution.

Many thanks again to both of you.

Kind Regards,

Paul.

[Pekka]

kenthomson wrote:
Can the Action be automated?

I thought I had done so by choosing default values for the two instances where it asks for a levels adjustment, and I was _certain_ I had run a batch.

However, it now stops at those points, even though I have unchecked the relevant boxes and inserted defaults. Any ideas?

I've never quite understood all Adobe's logics....
If anyone had time to do the batch version I'd appreciate it a lot. (I'm just too busy to start digging into Photoshop oddities now, sorry)

PS. Does anyone need a Photopaint (9) version or LinearSharpen? I could try to do one after three weeks (I have a Canary Island Festival tour coming soon).

Nice thing about Photopaint 9 is that it can handle masks in 16-bit mode!

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Paul,

Glad to read you sorted your problem. WRT to profiles most of the time I see that Adobe RGB is recommended as a better working space than srGB. Adobe RGB has a wide colour gamut and includes the D30 range. It's only necessary, as Pekka points out, to convert to sRGB for the web to ensure images look the same from browser to browser.

WRT to automation: the behaviour does seem wierd. Sometimes the dialog toggle off setting seems to be ignored. However, I did work out one method that has worked. Caveat emptor, however, I've only tried this once. Who nows whether it will keep working. :)

Anyone, this is what I did in LinearSharpen VR2:

0. With any old image open.
1. Run the levels command. Set the sliders as required for standard settings on the 1st levels command. Click save and store the settings in a .ALV file.
2. Repeat for 2nd levels command and save with another ALV name.
3. Select the first levels command in the action. Click the record button. Run levels, load the first ALV settings. Click OK. Stop recording.
4. Repeat for second levels settings.
5. Set the include toggle off for both the original levels command.

The action now runs from start to finish without intervention. At least, it has for me. Twice. :D

Regards,

Roger
www.rogercavanagh.com

[Thomas]

Hi everyone, this is Thomas from Edmonton.

I am just about to join the club of Canon D30 users.
I started using Canon EOS in 1988 and I feel it is the right time for me to switch to digital.

Mu camera is ordered, I am getting the 1GB Microdrive.
I am totally sold on the idea of shooting in RAW mode and using Pekka's Actions.

I already took some pictures at the local store, loaded them on a CD, and tried to process them in Photoshop according to Pekka's explanations.
The problrm I have is that I do not know my Photoshop software well enough yet, therefore I hope to get some tips:

-> How do you 'install' the Canon EOS D30 Linear Raw NC1a file from Fred Miranda?

I downloaded the file into the Adobe/Photoshop 6.0/Plug-Ins folder, and than what? Do you install it somehow?
I do not see it from Photoshop and can not perform Pekka's "Assign image to color profile
'Canon EOS D30 Processed RAW LC'" step. Once you have the desired 'Canon profile', how do you assign
an image to the colour profile? I told you I am learning the basics.
I played the action (LS vr2 strong) anyway and the results were great. Could someone tell me step by step, at my current level, what am I missing , if anything.

Thomas

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Thomas,

How do you 'install' the Canon EOS D30 Linear Raw NC1a file from Fred Miranda?

The easiest way is to right-click on the file and select install. You don't to to assign the profile manually, it is done as part of the action.

Regards,

Roger
www.rogercavanagh.com

[Cornwall]

I downloaded the two files, put them in to photoshop (correct location of course), but when I launch Photoshop, these actions do not appear on the script part ...

What can I do ??
PLEASE HEP, THANKS !!!

[Pekka]

Please read http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1742 there's a new version available.

In Windows 2000 you install actions by opening photoshop and dropping the actions on its workspace. Try if it works for you. After that the action appears in action palette.

[Cornwall]

Pekka wrote:
Please read http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1742 there's a new version available.

In Windows 2000 you install actions by opening photoshop and dropping the actions on its workspace. Try if it works for you. After that the action appears in action palette.



Hi again!
I've tried, same thing: photoshop is launching... but basic photoshop... your sript does not appear at all, even when it is launched from windows (when I run it). I use Millennium...

THX a lot !

[Cornwall]

Hi again,

I have them now (they were hidden on the right, I had to DISPLAY them...) but I can't execute it as an action: I mean, I have to execute each step of yout action at a time... any solution?

Thanks so much !!

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Have you clicked on the dialog window by the name of the action/set? It's the column immediately to the left of the text. If you have, then the action will stop for you to confirm every step.

The easiest way to sort this, is to delete and reload the action.

Regards,

Roger
www.rogercavanagh.com

[khm 1]

Does anyone out there use a Mac. I just got a D30 and have been testing
different capture modes. RAW is the best for my work and I would like to
take it a step further but have been unable to download any of Pekkas
Actions that are readable and I asume its the PC to MAC thing. I did manage
to get Freds profile but with no instructions.

Any help would be appreciated.

[boomertim]

How do I get Fred's Linear ICC profile and Fred's older Edgesharpen. Not too sure what this is? or how to obtain it?

Please Help ... I would like to try using the RAW feature.

[Roger_Cavanagh]

Go to Fred's site at www.fredmiranda.com and choose the Actions page.

But also have a link at this thread on the Software forum:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1742

Pekka has produced a version of his action that does not require the ICC profile.

Regards,

Roger

[khm 1]

Well, I guess no one in this forum uses a Mac, interesting.

I still can't do anything with the Linear Sharpen Stuff it's
unreadable text on my computer.

You get what you pay for.

[Roger_Cavanagh]

KHM 1 wrote:
Well, I guess no one in this forum uses a Mac, interesting.

You might have a look at Fred Miranda's actions then. I think he says (on some of them, at least) they are Mac compatible.

Regards.

Roger
www.rogercavanagh.com

[khm 1]

Roger,

You are right, Fred's stuff is Mac compatable but I still can't find any instructions
for his icc profile. I downloaded it & have been playing with where to put it, such fun.

What I mean by intresting is that all the pro photographers, graphic designers,
pre press, and printers (offset) that I know are Mac based and have been for years.

Thanks

Keith

[Karl Granberg]

Hi there,

I'm posting in response to automating the LinearSharpen 1&2 actions. It is a little different than the other proposal, so I thought I'd mention it.

First, duplicate the action you prefer and rename it, say, 'batch sharpen' (double click on the copied title).
Next load any old linear TIFF image you may have.
Run the action.
When the levels window pops up, hit cancel.
Now, open the action arrow by pressing on it in the action window, scroll down to 'Levels' and double click on it.
Set the levels to your preferred values and hit OK.
Then run the action from the next step after the first 'Levels' sub selection by scrolling to it, selcting it and hitting play.
Repeat as above with the next 'Levels' sub-selection.
Save your new action, and Bob's your uncle.

Now you have one action for more individualized control over your settings, and one for batch work.

To re-change your 'Levels' settings, before running the action, toggle the dialogue boxes, and then repeat as above.

I hope this is helpful.

Karl

[kenthomson]

Thanks, Karl! your method worked a treat.

regards, Ken