Stitch Mode

[stevewwoo]

Just discovered the stitch mode on my G6 today and tried it out on a panoramic view of the city today.

This 180 degree view of SF aint the best quality photo and it was hazy today. Will have to try for a 360 degree view next time.
http://www.cablecarchase.com/sf-sm.jpg

Anyone have sample stitch photos so I can see what kinda pics you can do with the function?

[gardenstate]

A few months ago, I "discovered" the wonder of making panoramas with the G6. To make the best images, it is very important to overlap the photos about 25% or more and swivel the camera on a tripod. Recently, I bought a device called the PANOSAURUS which is a special calibrated tripod head that allows you to move the camera in selected increments. The pano head helps to avoid image distortion.

To stitch images, I'm using PANORAMA FACTORY and am evaluating PTGUI and AUTOPANO. From my experience, these programs do a better job than the stitching software that came with the camera.

For more info on panos, use the SEARCH function in this forum...

[ATucker]

The link in my signature will take you to a gallery of nothing but panoramics taken with my G5. Make sure you view the images in "original" size. The panoramics in this gallery range from 3 pic single row images to 7 x 2 mosaics.

I shoot all the panos in manual mode. I do not use the stitch mode.

[gardenstate]

WOW!!! You are an incredible photographer!!!

Please describe your workflow (techniques and software to us) to take such beautiful panos.

Thanks.

[Terrywoodenpic]

The link in my signature will take you to a gallery of nothing but panoramics taken with my G5. Make sure you view the images in "original" size. The panoramics in this gallery range from 3 pic single row images to 7 x 2 mosaics.

I shoot all the panos in manual mode. I do not use the stitch mode.

Which stitch program do you use.
Beautiful pictures

Terry_________________

[stevewwoo]

The link in my signature will take you to a gallery of nothing but panoramics taken with my G5. Make sure you view the images in "original" size. The panoramics in this gallery range from 3 pic single row images to 7 x 2 mosaics.

I shoot all the panos in manual mode. I do not use the stitch mode.

WOW--all that from just a G5? very nice.

thanks for the tip--i hadnt even thought about not using the stitch mode.

[ATucker]

WOW--all that from just a G5? very nice.
thanks for the tip--i hadnt even thought about not using the stitch mode.

There is one pano in that gallery that was shot with an A80, all the rest were shot with a G5.

When you shoot in stitch mode, the camera will set the exposure based on the first shot and use those same settings for all subsequent shots. When you shoot in Manual, it gives you a bit more flexibility. Photostitch does not care whether you shot the images using the stitch mode or not.


Please describe your workflow (techniques and software to us)

Bottomline, the technique is not much different than shooting single shots. Probably the two main drivers for me to shoot panos is so I am not limited to the 7.2mm (35mm equivalent) wide angle of the G5, or to create higher resolution images than the G5 can take in a single shot, or both. Mostly both.

I do use a panohead for most of the panos, although it really is only needed for panos with a lot of foreground interest and/or long exposure times. I do shoot a fair amount of blended (HDR) panos to increase the dynamic range, especially for the "magic hour" sunrises and sunsets.

As far as stitching software, I use PT Assembler. More info at www.tawbaware.com (http://www.tawbaware.com). There is an active pano forum on the Tawbaware site. You will learn a lot there, whether you use PTAssembler or not.

For blending and general post processing, I use Picture Window Pro.

[gardenstate]

Thanks for your detailed reply.

In simple terms, please explain more about how you create a HDR pano (images taken with different exposure levels). Also, what pano head do you use (with amount of overlap per shot)?

I am still in awe at the beauty and quality of your images..... thanks.

[ATucker]

In simple terms, please explain more about how you create a HDR pano (images taken with different exposure levels). Also, what pano head do you use (with amount of overlap per shot)?

This stitching part of this workflow is specific to PTAssembler - I do not know if Steps 3 - 5 will work with anything else.

If shooting two exposures of each frame to increase the dynamic range, a workflow that I use is as follows:

1.) Determine what aperture to use for the whole scene. Determine the shutter speed for the shadows and the shutter speed to use for the highlights ( usually the sky). You will use these settings for every frame in your pano). Lock your other settings (aperture, white balance, etc.)
2.)Using a tripod, with the camera in manual mode shoot each frame twice, once for the highlights, once for the shadows, always using the same two different shutter speeds. Then index the camera to the next frame and repeat.
3.) First create a pano of the shadow exposed images. Autopano, if you are using it, will work better with the lighter images.
4.) Then create a second pano of the highlight exposed images by copying the parameters over from the shadow exposed pano. Do not optimize the second pano.
5.) Now blend the highlight exposed pano and the shadow exposed pano together.

Blending the two (or more) separate panos is the same for blending two or more photos. You can find various techniques in the Luminous Landscape site. Using Picture Window Pro, the basic workflow I use for blending can be found here:
http://www.dl-c.com/dynamic%20range.pdf (http://www.dl-c.com/dynamic%20range.pdf)

I use a homemade spherical panohead designed specifically for the G5. Pictures here:
http://www.pbase.com/atucker/pano_head

As far as overlap: 10-20% depending on the scene.

[gardenstate]

Thanks for the workflow.

Is it possible (and how) to blend the images using Adobe Photoshop instead of with Picture Window Pro?

[ATucker]

Thanks for the workflow.

Is it possible (and how) to blend the images using Adobe Photoshop instead of with Picture Window Pro?


http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/blended_exposures.shtml

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/contrast_masking.shtml

or search the POTN site.

[d100763]

I must ask, what materials did you use for that killer, homemade head. It's clean and looks like it could handle a G6 perfectly.

[ATucker]

The panohead is milled from aluminum and weighs about 8 oz.

The G5 tripod mount is on the opposite side of the lens centerline to the G6. So the part that mounts directly to the camera would have to change. Also, I do not know if the distance from the camera base to lens centerline is the same between cameras. If different, the rotating part that mounts the panohead base to the vertical upright would have to change in length.

I think the G6 and G5 have the same lens, therefore the adjustable slide should work.

[d100763]

That is plenty impressive, I thought of going to the hardware store and make my own, but I am no Bob Villa. You have any more shots of the head you wouldn't mind sharing, thanks.

[Bryan Bedell]

When you shoot in stitch mode, the camera will set the exposure based on the first shot and use those same settings for all subsequent shots. When you shoot in Manual, it gives you a bit more flexibility.

For those that are nervous about M mode, I believe you can use the exposure lock (click the star button when selecting the best area, using the metering mode of your choice) to set the exposure for the whole series in stitch mode. For what it's worth.

Bb.

[gardenstate]

The G6 has an Autoexposure Bracketing Function (AEB). Any thoughts on using it to create as panos noted above by ATucker?

[ATucker]

You have any more shots of the head you wouldn't mind sharing, thanks.

Sorry - I do not have anymore pics of it.

The G6 has an Autoexposure Bracketing Function (AEB). Any thoughts on using it to create as panos noted above by ATucker?

The G5 has the same feature and it only works in Aperature Priority. This feature works well if you want to blend single frame images but not for panos. With AEB enabled, the camera shoots 3 pics based on the metered light in that scene. If the light in the pano changes as you pan the camera, then the exposure will also shift. In general, it is desirable that the exposure stays the same when you pan the camera. If it changes, then you may have problems with blending when you create the pano.

It would be nice if this featured worked in Manual, then I would not have to touch the camera to manually adjust the shutter between shots. The risk is that the camera gets bumped and the two pics (highlight and shadow exposed) do not register when I blend them. Especially with my lightweight rig.