Neutral Density Filters

[ChrisNardone]

I know I know... Go buy a book. Just thought I'd ask the following: In what circumstances are neutral density filters useful? Any example photos?

[henkbos]

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=In+what+circumstances+are+neutral+density+filter s+useful

[Ken Fong]

Graduated ND filters are helpful when you want to narrow the extreme gap between something like a dark foreground and a bright background (e.g. sunsets). By using the filters, you have a better chance of fitting your low and high tones within your camera's capable range (you can see the color and details in your shadows and/or highlights.) I recommend a combination of 3 flat ND filters of 1(.3), 2(.6), and 4(1.2) stops, because this set gives you the possible combinations of 1 thru 7 stops if combined. But when you start using 5-7 stops of compensation, often the photo doesn't look real.

Non-graduated ND filters are great for bright situations where you want to use long exposures. A common use is a waterfall on a bright day, or the ocean/river on a bright day...the filter will soften the water as 'glassy' or 'misty'.

[ChrisNardone]

Thanks for that excellent reply. I believe digital sensors have less exposure latitude than most film. Is that true? If so it seems that digital slrs might need graduated nd filters to achieve the same results a film slr might achieve without the filters. i.e. when shooting a bright sunset with a dark foreground

[rdenney]

chrisnardone wrote:
Thanks for that excellent reply. I believe digital sensors have less exposure latitude than most film. Is that true? If so it seems that digital slrs might need graduated nd filters to achieve the same results a film slr might achieve without the filters. i.e. when shooting a bright sunset with a dark foreground

No, the digital sensor in the 10D has a wider latitude than slide films, and a narrower latitude that print films. The grad filters became popular with nature photographers using Velvia, which is extremely narrow, so that they could bring a sunlit sky down within five stops of a shadowed foreground. It helps with the digital sensor, too, but you don't need as much.

If you go that way, use filter holders that allow positioning, so that you adjust vertically the "horizon" between the dark and light parts.

Rick "who has been shooting negatives for scanning and has had to dip back in time to remember his slide technique" Denney

[Ken Fong]

The range is somewhere between 5 and 6 stops I think...like what Rick said, it falls between slide and print. I use the cokin-P size (85mm?) with a brand called Hitech. I don't bother with the holder as I usually hand hold my filters...but it could be tricky with a heavy lense. I read an interesting article about how to maximize data capture given our limited range...

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

[Griffin]

Apart from what others have mentioned. Hey I have been using HiTech 0.3 and 0.6 filters, too. :D

BTW, it helps, not only helps in landscape,
http://www.pbase.com/image/14484177


but it could be used to block out some pesky street lights:
http://www.pbase.com/image/4052424

Or, simply use it to push the ISO lower:
http://www.pbase.com/image/15810416

Soon, I find from LLVJ that you can do it by taking two pictures of the same scene, one gives correct exposure of the "bright" part and the other for the "dark" part. Then you can use either PS or some PS actions to merge them togther.

Hope it helps.


Griffin.