Single robust travel lense for D30

[icngacsn]

Hi all,

This is a great source of information on the D30! I just brought one and am beginning to become familiar with it - 1st digital camera - been using a EOS 630 for 15 years with various lenses - but it was stolen :( I want to purchase a single 'travel' lense for a trip in the new year (I will be motorcycling in the Amazon - which is why I do not want to change lenses frequently). The lense needs to be robust, resistant to humidity, and preferably

[CanonRock]

I have used the Sigma 28-200 and Tamron 28-300 (not wide enough) with the D30, and currently using the Tokina 24-200. All of these lens are OK when shooting with Jpeg.

Recently I have changed workflow (using 16 bits linear tiff), and this have improved my pics significantly that I'm keeping my Tokina 24-200 as my travel lens.

I have some pics here using the Tokina 24-200.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=983531&a=14047201

All shots were RAW-16bitsLinearTIFF-LinearSharpen-Jpeg. All hand-held with multi-flash setup.


For project work, I'll be using a newly purchase 50mm f1.4 and a 70-200f2.8 IS (will be getting this week).

Tn
San Jose

[icngacsn]

Thanks Tn

Nice shots - no problem with sharpness (what parameters/setup are you using?). Also are ALL those shot with the Tokina 24-200?

[CanonRock]

icngacsn wrote:
Thanks Tn

Nice shots - no problem with sharpness (what parameters/setup are you using?). Also are ALL those shot with the Tokina 24-200?

Thanks for the complements.

The below settings were used for all shots on the above link:

Len:Tokina 24-200mm f3.5-5.6. All hand-held.
Most shots were taken between 100-200mm. Apperature settings for most were between f4.5-f5.6.

Multi-flash: 550(bounce)+420(bounce) with ST-E2 triggering.

D30 settings for all shots:
Format: RAW
WB: Auto
Shot Mode: Av (with fixed shutter speed= 1/200)
Contrast: Normal
Saturation: Normal
Sharpness: Normal

Post Processing:
1) Convert RAW to 16bits LinearTIFF (using Canon RAW Converter program - Free).
2) Sharpen 16bits LinearTiffs (using Pekka's LinearSharpen1-must have Fred's ICC profile) - Free.
3) Convert results from step 2 to Jpeg to post on web.


I'm sure what I've done so far can be improve upon, but as a serious amateur I was very happy with my recent results. Hope that you will find my results encouraging with such non-pro lens. I spent about $325US for the Tokina 24-200 NEW.


-Tuan
The only way to learn is to shoot :-)

[icngacsn]

Tuan,

You have convinced me - I am off to buy the Tokina :-)

Could you post the links for:
* Canon's RAW Converter program
* Pekka's LinearSharpen1?
* Fred's ICC profile?

and possibly explain what the latter two are :)

Aaron

[CanonRock]

FYI,

* Canon's RAW Converter program
http://www.powershot.com/powershot2/customer/rimexe.html

* Pekka's LinearSharpen1?
http://photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/
Download "LinearSharpen_1.atn". Load this action into Photoshop6.0. The action give you an automated method in sharpen your 16bits LinearTiff images.
This is the best action I have used for far.
See Pekka's explaination of his workflow:
http://photography-on-the.net/D30/linear/workflow/


* Fred's ICC profile?
http://www.fredmiranda.com/Action_profilesPage/index.html
Download the "ICC profile and action* linear " for Photoshop6.0.
This will give your D30 images the color correction that Fred thinks is correct.


I hope my explaination is good enough because I'm not an expert when it comes to PhotoShop.

Again, I want to thanks Pekka and Fred for their efforts in developing and sharing their works with us.

-Tuan

[icngacsn]

Thanks Tuan

My local retailer does not have a Tokina so I am going through B&H. The local guy claimed that with 35mm the Tokina distorts at wide angle and vignettes on both ends. He said this may not be the case for the D30 due to the smaller 'neg' size. Does this make sense?

He also tried to sell me a Tamron 28-300mm (so 48-480 on D30!). It is f3.5-6.3. I doubt I could handhold much at 480mm f6.3. Anyone have experience with this lense on a D30?

Aaron

[Pekka]

Read this thread about the actions:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1407#5476

[icngacsn]

Pekka

Thanks for the thread, and more importantly, for the forum. I have found that participation in this forum is as (or possibly more) important for good results from the D30 than the users manual. Well done!

If you ever need hosting or web support let me know.

Aaron

[Roger_Cavanagh]

icngacsn wrote:
Thanks Tuan

My local retailer does not have a Tokina so I am going through B&H. The local guy claimed that with 35mm the Tokina distorts at wide angle and vignettes on both ends. He said this may not be the case for the D30 due to the smaller 'neg' size. Does this make sense?

Aaron

Yes, the D30 CMOS chip is 22.7x15.1 mm instead of 24x35mm of film. So a lens with problems "at the edge" would cause fewer or no problems with the D30.

Regards,

Roger

[icngacsn]

So I got my Tokina 24-200. It is quite heavi but has a nice feel on the camera. First impressions:

1) AF is no slower than the Canon USM lenses I have used but is not silent - but not noisy enough to cause concern - and is quite accurate (which is necessary - see 4).

2) I have not been able to get any vignetting @ 24mm or 200mm - which is great.

3) Zoom action is nice although you have to rotate ring through about 120 degrees - which is a long way and requires you to move your hand twice - not a real issue.

4) Manual focus SUX. You have to switch between AF or Manual which is annoying but acceptable. The issue is that infintiy to 0.8m (closest focus) is aprox 25 degree rotation, and the ring is loose. Sharp focus is frustrating to impossible!. If this is typical (the looseness of the manual focus ring) of the lense I would like to know as I will return. The result is that you are forced to rely on AF in most situations.

[CanonRock]

Hope you'll find the Manual Focus problem something you don't really need because mine is the same.

But like you mentioned, the AF worked accurate enough that I have never had to use the Manual Focus.

When I think about it, most Manual Focus on the non-pro AF lens are not very good (I could never rely on the Manual Focus on the Tamron AF 28-300 or Sigma AF 28-200 either). So when I got my Tokina, I didn't expect to use the Manual Focus.

What I paid for on the Tokina is the extra 4mm on the wide end. The build quality. The fast and accurate AF. And of course, the sharpness and good color (for a non-L Lens). Having 24-200 with all the above quality that fits in one travel back and a tight budget ($309) was more than I could have asked for.

Don't forget about your workflow - try a couple of tests and you will be amaze.

Post some photos when you get a chance.

-TN

[CanonRock]

For those who got shafted by PhotoPoint.com like I did, just want to let you know that www.imagestation.com (from Sony) is pretty good. It's FREE, unlimited space, even allow 15mins of video upload.

The reason why I added this is because I listed some sample pics of the Tokina 24-200mm on the top post.

I have moved them to imagestation:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4292186521

Hope Sony takes its Company Image seriously and keep imagestation.com up longer than most no-name web hosting service out there.

Cheers,

Tuan

[Joe Butts]

I just joined the group here and read your thread and thought I'd throw in my $.02 worth. Hope it's worth it.
Regarding the lenses: I've "heard" that the Tokinas don't hold up as well as the Tamron. I agree with you that I'd prefer a little wider lens. That's an issue for the D30 chip size. I have friends who have the Tamron and love it -- especially for candid situations. That 300 can come in real handy. I'm using all Canon zooms and would like a longer lens than my 200. Am considering the Tamron which has a rebate available right now. Rebates? Why do they give a rebate? Is it to clear out current stock so it's not a burden when they bring in a new product? Maybe they're coming out with a wider range or something. I know nothing so don't use that as a quote or gossip around the web. But, look at Canon: great lens rebates this year and they came out with the 70~200 IS lens. Oh, how I'd prefer that over my non-IS.
Speaking of stabilization: Here's a trick or two for you. Get a 1/4-20 eye screw and a wing nut. Put the wing nut on the eye screw and screw the eye screw into the tripod socket on your camera. Tighten the wing nut down against the body. Now, attach a link of light weight chain onto the eye screw that is at least as long as you are tall. Hold the balled up chain in your left hand under the camera. The extra weight actually helps stabilize the camera. However, the real trick is to determine the camera height at which you want to shoot and drop the chain. Step on it and pull up tight. You have just created a mono-pod that will be good for a couple of extra stops for those long lenses or slow shutter speeds.
Another optoin that takes a little getting used to but is worth it: Turn the camera upside down and look through the viewfinder. Where is the camera body? It's against your forehead. Press firmly. You'll be amazed at how helpful this is for gaining stops of stability. Yeah, it takes some practice. You may find that your left thumb becomes your shutter finger. It really helps people like me with big noses. We no longer have to smash our noses. For some it allows another support for the camera.
As for your problem with the 120 degree rotation needed to focus: Get longer fingers. No, I don't have a solution other than that and that's probably out of the question -- for now.
Joe Butts

[CanonRock]

My praise for the Tonkina is base on my personal experience.

I owned and used two Tamron 28-300 lens about a year ago. The first one was for a Minolta 800si. It was good for what it was, versatile. I used a second lens Canon Mount with the D30. I did not like it's quality from 200-300mm compared to a Sigma 28-200 at 200mm that I also had at the same time. Plus, I don't have a good tecnical explaination, but The Tamron from 200 to 300mm didn't really do much in term of getting closer to the subject. I've seen some post somewhere saying the same thing, but I don't know and not really interested since I sold both of my Tamron a long time ago for $350 each.

The Sigma was a cheaper lens by feel, but it's picture quality was good enough for what it was. The Tonkina in my experience provide better overall quality. As far for built, I can't say about any of these lens since I used any one of them for less than six months, but the Tokina felt heavy and solid. Plus for less money than the Tamron 28-300.

I just purchased the 70-200IS last week. Yes, this is a monster of a lens, but the IS is well worth it.

My Tokina can't be compared to any of the Canon L lens, but I'm keeping mine because it served me well.

Tuan