Show us your Macro Rig

[pridash]

I posted this earlier in this thread. I also got fed up with the Delta, so I experimented with no bracket and my lumiquest soft box. To my surprise, I didn't need a bracket at all. All my shots now are done with the Flash mounted directly to my camera. I'm sure the effectivness of this will be determined by the lens you use, but for me, it works very well with the 100mm. It's worth a try

http://TCProimages.smugmug.com/photos/241560924_y3Euz-X3.jpg

I really like the simplicity of this! Your website link also shows that you a achieve a lot without a bracket. It may be the way I'll go...once I decide between the Canon 100mm or the Sigma 150mm!

[dkspook]

some of this equipment is awesome i am afraid i just purchased a cannon eos450 and a macro lens..so i am the poor member on here..

Read this: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/675134 :)

[Alan B]

Finally got mine up and running :)

http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yuhsmy&outx=600&noresize=1&original=1&nostamp=1

http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yuhslz&outx=600&noresize=1&original=1&nostamp=1

A random test shot(no cropping)
http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yuhsm2&outx=600&noresize=1&original=1&nostamp=1

Really looking forward to shooting some insects with it :cool:

[b.d.bop]

Beautiful! Looks like a great rig, and the example proves it.

[Alan B]

Yeah i'm really pleased with it :D

My next lens purchase is going to be the MPE-65 to go with it :cool:

[macro junkie]

The balance is actually fine... As long as my left hand is supporting it! :D

With my left palm under the bracket and lens, my fingers can work the focus ring. It ain't the most elegant solution, but all shots I've posted are shot hand held, so it must be doing something right. It's pretty low weight (as low weight as a 40D, 100mm macro and 580EX II can be, anyways) so working with it hand held for longer periods is no problem. I'm devising a plan for building a better softbox for it...
ok..well you seem to be getting on well with it..gd shots:)

[macro junkie]

I really like the simplicity of this! Your website link also shows that you a achieve a lot without a bracket. It may be the way I'll go...once I decide between the Canon 100mm or the Sigma 150mm!
at 1:1 im pretty sure that wont be any good..you need it closer to the lens,i havent got the rig but thats my guees.mayby he can tell us how he gets on at 1:1 with out a bracket?

and i would go with the 100mm by the way

[macro junkie]

Finally got mine up and running :)


random test shot(no cropping)

Really looking forward to shooting some insects with it :cool:
i bet that rig weights about 40 pounds..LOL,,i was thinking about getting the extra battery clip on the bottom but i was worried it would add more weight//does it?

[macro junkie]

Yeah i'm really pleased with it :D

My next lens purchase is going to be the MPE-65 to go with it :cool:

gd move ;)

[Alan B]

i bet that rig weights about 40 pounds..LOL,,i was thinking about getting the extra battery clip on the bottom but i was worried it would add more weight//does it?

lol i never thought about taking it off :lol:

For me tho, the weight is alright.If i can lug a 500mm with a 1D3 on a Wimberley gimble with 1548 Gitzo legs all day then this is nothing :D.

Plus it feels like you are holding something when the grip is attached, having big hands.

[macro junkie]

lol i never thought about taking it off :lol:

For me tho, the weight is alright.If i can lug a 500mm with a 1D3 on a Wimberley gimble with 1548 Gitzo legs all day then this is nothing :D.

Plus it feels like you are holding something when the grip is attached, having big hands.
your sensor is dirty like mine..i need to clean it soon,.

[pridash]

at 1:1 im pretty sure that wont be any good..you need it closer to the lens,i havent got the rig but thats my guees.mayby he can tell us how he gets on at 1:1 with out a bracket?

and i would go with the 100mm by the way

Sorry, do you mean that it won't produce sufficient light for 1:1?

Yes, maybe Crypto could show us a 1:1 shot...I hope he does as it just seems like a very simple and versatile rig!

As regards the bracket way - do you all just buy a normal flash bracket and attach ball socket to it in order to get the flash nearer the lens?

As regards the Canon 100, I am almost settled on this, but finding hard to decide whether the Sigma 150 would still be a better bet. But I'll post something on this in the lens forum so I don't send this thread off on a tangent!

[macro junkie]

Sorry, do you mean that it won't produce sufficient light for 1:1?

Yes, maybe Crypto could show us a 1:1 shot...I hope he does as it just seems like a very simple and versatile rig!

As regards the bracket way - do you all just buy a normal flash bracket and attach ball socket to it in order to get the flash nearer the lens?

As regards the Canon 100, I am almost settled on this, but finding hard to decide whether the Sigma 150 would still be a better bet. But I'll post something on this in the lens forum so I don't send this thread off on a tangent!
the further you are away from the subject the harder it is to get sharp withs.i use 60mm and im happy with it..i didnt get on with the 105mm..to much working distance for me..i prefer being as close to the subject as possible..your flash duration is faster then.. read this http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2008/06/how-working-distance-works-against-you.html

[Crypto]

1:1 is fine with the setup. Minimum focus is around 6 inches from the front of the lens, which is 1:1. BTW- this is an old post with the Lumiquest, I now use the Canon ringflash.

Let me see if I can find an example of 1:1 with this setup

http://www.tcproimages.com/photos/257514871_XHbQE-X3.jpg

[macro junkie]

1:1 is fine with the setup. Minimum focus is around 6 inches from the front of the lens, which is 1:1. BTW- this is an old post with the Lumiquest, I now use the Canon ringflash.

Let me see if I can find an example of 1:1 with this setup
i would like to see 2 shots with same subject
1.with mr-14ex at 1:1
2.shot with the 430ex mounted on camera with the lumiquest soft box.

[pridash]

1:1 is fine with the setup. Minimum focus is around 6 inches from the front of the lens, which is 1:1. BTW- this is an old post with the Lumiquest, I now use the Canon ringflash.

Let me see if I can find an example of 1:1 with this setup

http://www.tcproimages.com/photos/257514871_XHbQE-X3.jpg

Fantastic shot! I'm pretty much convinced this is the lens I'm getting!!

i would like to see 2 shots with same subject
1.with mr-14ex at 1:1
2.shot with the 430ex mounted on camera with the lumiquest soft box.

This could be a really interesting and very, very helpful comparison for all of us...especially for those, like me, who are about to get into macro!

[macro junkie]

canon 100mm or sigma 105mm is what u need..:) very good lens..your going to love it

[The_Janissary88]

I am sorry to ask such a newbish question, but can somebody explain me the concept in mounting the lenses inverted? ^_^

[macro junkie]

I am sorry to ask such a newbish question, but can somebody explain me the concept in mounting the lenses inverted? ^_^
easy.u get a reversing ring for a couple of £ and attach it to your slr body..then the lens u have is reversed and attached to the body and ring.it makes the lens have more magnification when its reversed.

[Crypto]

i would like to see 2 shots with same subject
1.with mr-14ex at 1:1
2.shot with the 430ex mounted on camera with the lumiquest soft box.

Ok, I'll do that when I get a chance. BTW- The Ring Flash is without a doubt much better for lighting, but as an alternative to the expensive flash or experimenting with brackets. Direct mounting on the hotshoe works very well.

Also- above you mentioned the Sigma. I do have a concern here with the hotshoe solution as I don't think it has internal focus. Doesn't the end protrude as you focus? If so, it may not work as well.

Okay guys, here ya go. I will add though..I'm not sure why we would compare these two light sources. The question was, Can you take 1:1 with the hotshoe mounted flash.

Here is one with 430ex on the hotshoe and Lumiquest softwbox. Minimum focus. No processing. Raw conversion only
http://tcproimages.smugmug.com/photos/356345423_Q3ksG-X3.jpg


Here is one with the ringflash. Same settings. FYI- I always have to stop down the ringflash when I shoot.
http://tcproimages.smugmug.com/photos/356345444_RM7XE-X3.jpg

[The_Janissary88]

easy.u get a reversing ring for a couple of £ and attach it to your slr body..then the lens u have is reversed and attached to the body and ring.it makes the lens have more magnification when its reversed.

Thanks for the info dude. Is there a kind of calculation for the magnification of every single lens, or are you just trying?

[macro junkie]

Thanks for the info dude. Is there a kind of calculation for the magnification of every single lens, or are you just trying?
there is a way u can do it..im not sure how tho..i use mpe-65 which has the mag wrote on the side.

[pridash]

Ok, I'll do that when I get a chance. BTW- The Ring Flash is without a doubt much better for lighting, but as an alternative to the expensive flash or experimenting with brackets. Direct mounting on the hotshoe works very well.

Also- above you mentioned the Sigma. I do have a concern here with the hotshoe solution as I don't think it has internal focus. Doesn't the end protrude as you focus? If so, it may not work as well.

Okay guys, here ya go. I will add though..I'm not sure why we would compare these two light sources. The question was, Can you take 1:1 with the hotshoe mounted flash.

Here is one with 430ex on the hotshoe and Lumiquest softwbox. Minimum focus. No processing. Raw conversion only
http://tcproimages.smugmug.com/photos/356345423_Q3ksG-X3.jpg


Here is one with the ringflash. Same settings. FYI- I always have to stop down the ringflash when I shoot.
http://tcproimages.smugmug.com/photos/356345444_RM7XE-X3.jpg

Thanks for that!

It's really useful for me. I may just go down the softbox route for now, or try the "Ghetto macro rig" posted on the Flash forum before investing in a good bracket or ring flash later...once I get better at macro.

Gotta order the Canon 100 very soon!

[photobitz]

Ok, I'll do that when I get a chance. BTW- The Ring Flash is without a doubt much better for lighting, but as an alternative to the expensive flash or experimenting with brackets. Direct mounting on the hotshoe works very well.

Also- above you mentioned the Sigma. I do have a concern here with the hotshoe solution as I don't think it has internal focus. Doesn't the end protrude as you focus? If so, it may not work as well.

Okay guys, here ya go. I will add though..I'm not sure why we would compare these two light sources. The question was, Can you take 1:1 with the hotshoe mounted flash.

Here is one with 430ex on the hotshoe and Lumiquest softwbox. Minimum focus. No processing. Raw conversion only
http://tcproimages.smugmug.com/photos/356345423_Q3ksG-X3.jpg


Here is one with the ringflash. Same settings. FYI- I always have to stop down the ringflash when I shoot.
http://tcproimages.smugmug.com/photos/356345444_RM7XE-X3.jpg

To me, the ringlit shot seems father flat. Probably works better with some subjects though or maybe it's just a bad example? You did say you usually stop the ring flash down a bit.

[oredith]

finished making my own version of the delta bracket, now i just need to learn how to use it correctly:

http://www.ikonique.com/Images/small/rig1.jpg

http://www.ikonique.com/Images/small/rig2.jpg

the red loc-line is actually a "flashlight" with a 3 candle LED at the end.. allows me to focus on the subject at night.

http://www.ikonique.com/Images/small/spider2.jpg

i just need to figure out how far to set the flash, and the FEC for em.. :(

[Crypto]

To me, the ringlit shot seems father flat. Probably works better with some subjects though or maybe it's just a bad example? You did say you usually stop the ring flash down a bit.

I stop it down and change the ratio so it's not as flat and harsh

[macro junkie]

focus. No processing. Raw conversion only
http://tcproimages.smugmug.com/photos/356345423_Q3ksG-X3.jpg




i can smell that from here..looking dank ;)

[macro junkie]

the ring light shot is over exposed.so its not a very good test really.

[webcrawlur]

the ring light shot is over exposed.so its not a very good test really.
I agree, it would be nice to compare the two, with the ring light shot being properly exposed. :D

[The_Janissary88]

there is a way u can do it..im not sure how tho..i use mpe-65 which has the mag wrote on the side.

I'm thinking about starting macro-photography, but buying the best lens would be like suicide for a newbie. I think I will research some more before starting shooting.

[dkspook]

I'm thinking about starting macro-photography, but buying the best lens would be like suicide for a newbie. I think I will research some more before starting shooting.

Buy a used Canon 100mm, Sigma 105mm or Tamron 90mm. They're all great and easy to sell again with little or no loss :)

...or get a reversing ring and an old manual 50mm that lets you set the aperture manually. Kinda depends on how much you want to spend to dip your toes in the macro pool. I borrowed a Tamron 90mm some weeks ago and it got me hooked. Bought a Canon 100mm shortly hereafter and it has barely been off my camera since. The great thing about macro is its availability. I only need to go out in my garden and find a fly or a bee and I can make great images.

[macro junkie]

I'm thinking about starting macro-photography, but buying the best lens would be like suicide for a newbie. I think I will research some more before starting shooting.
why do u need to know the mag?

[Crypto]

the ring light shot is over exposed.so its not a very good test really.

You guys are killing me. Did you want to test the two options or determine if the the hotshoe mounted flash would suffice at 1:1. There is no question the ring light will light your subject much better when adjusted properly.

[macro junkie]

i have owned all 3..ring flash,mt-24ex and 430ex with soft box..the ring flash was sigma..i didnt like it one bit.

[macro junkie]

You guys are killing me. Did you want to test the two options or determine if the the hotshoe mounted flash would suffice at 1:1. .
yer..:)

[The_Janissary88]

Buy a used Canon 100mm, Sigma 105mm or Tamron 90mm. They're all great and easy to sell again with little or no loss :)

...or get a reversing ring and an old manual 50mm that lets you set the aperture manually. Kinda depends on how much you want to spend to dip your toes in the macro pool. I borrowed a Tamron 90mm some weeks ago and it got me hooked. Bought a Canon 100mm shortly hereafter and it has barely been off my camera since. The great thing about macro is its availability. I only need to go out in my garden and find a fly or a bee and I can make great images.

Thanks a lot for the advice, dude. I was thinking about doing something alike - buying a Canon 100mm or a Sigma. I sounds like a really good idea, especially because you can get some more magnification if you attach extension tubes but I've heard that the extension tubes are lowering the image quality?

why do u need to know the mag?

I'm just curious :) I would guess that some lenses are magnifying more than others. I would just like to know what it depends on (focal lenght?).

[number six]

Thanks a lot for the advice, dude. I was thinking about doing something alike - buying a Canon 100mm or a Sigma. I sounds like a really good idea, especially because you can get some more magnification if you attach extension tubes but I've heard that the extension tubes are lowering the image quality?

No, extension tubes don't lower the image quality - they're just tubes, no glass.

But the lens you use the tubes on is probably not nearly as good up close as a macro lens.

-js

[phoenix54]

Pretty new to macro.Here's my rig and a sample image shot handheld.

[Ballen Photo]

and a sample image shot handheld.
Hi Jim, Looking GOOD! ;)
-Bruce

[phoenix54]

Thanks Bruce.I'm very pleased with the results.I have been shooting all natural light.Flash makes a big difference in my keeper rate.Especially handheld.Finding that I need to learn more about post processing now.

[amelsen]

Alright.. so today I finally got a flash bracket solution set up after having recieved two Giotto MH-1004 mini-ball heads...

Back when I purchased the camera, I got this really crappy flash solution along.. some no-name lousy flash... The good thing was that a bracket plate came with it, which has a rubber thingie below the metal, which helps fasten and lock the plate a great deal.

... that specific plate is - along with the tripod foot on my 150mm sigma, the core of my bracket solution... to go with this, I ordered two Giotto MH-1004 mini-balls heads which ... are very small - but surprisingly strong once I figured how how to properly fasten them - because turning the knot is not good enough - you have to grab the whole ball-head itself and twist that further to secure it on to the screw that its placed on.

Kinda hard to explain.. but anyways.. once that is done.. it is locked SOLID.

This solution is to me just as flexible as any solution can be.. Not only can I turn the tripod ring all around - but I can turn the plate as well, and slide it back and forth to decide the length of it - and finally the flexibility of two ball heads... AWESOME.

Cost me very very little.. compared to spending a LOAD on a wimberley solution.. I'm happy.

Cant wait to try out the solution and see what difference the this makes to the lighting... Using a flash mounted directly on the camera is definately not optimal and have bothered me for quite some time. :P


Anyways... pictures of the rig:


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3172/2825722320_b47e7ec198_b.jpg


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3185/2825714442_c579e9d072_b.jpg


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3063/2824855503_d51864e8af_b.jpg


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3287/2824862667_a87bee22c6_b.jpg


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3146/2824870519_4ff708455e_b.jpg


Anyways.. to sum it up...

Canon EOS 40D
Sigma 150mm EX APO MACRO DG HSM
Canon Speedlite 580ex II
Lumiquest Softbox diffuser
Off-Shoe Cord
2 x Giotto MH-1004 Mini-Ball heads
.. some unknown but kickass plate bracket =)

[midnight_rider]

Here is mine. It includes a Canon 40D, 100mm F/2.8 macro, a really cheap tripod, 430 ex with diffuser, oc-e3 cord, Giottos MH1004, and Manfrotto BO233B bracket.
At first I though that this bracket looked very stiff and would not be easy to move around. I was really wrong on that one. I tend to keep the connections loose and just move it around as I shoot.

[DreDaze]

Pretty new to macro.Here's my rig and a sample image shot handheld.
what kind of bracket do you have there?

[Samdiver74]

what kind of bracket do you have there?

Looks like the wimberley F2 PLB* Mount

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/240878-REG/Wimberley_F2_Combo_2_Macro_Combo.html

*Pricey little bugger
you can probably get away with parts of it cheaper by going to RAM mounts, someone here already went this route and listed the part # for the RAM set-up.

[photographergirl]

WOW there is a lot of info here! I am a major macro person but never really thought of doing the whole set up like you guys are doing. Now altho I am going to start just got to find a good flash mount. I dont like the macro feature in the 28-135mm so I use the Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG MACRO with the 40D. Here is a picture of a grasshopper I took a while back. Now knowing to use the flash and so forth I could of really got much more detail! Lession Learned I guess. My next macro lens is going to be either the 60mm macro or the 100mm. Which will probably be the 100mm because I have been wanting this lens for a year now.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l71/slingnau/GH7-1.jpg

[Ballen Photo]

WOW there is a lot of info here!
Addictive stuff, eh? ;)
BTW, WELCOME to the forum! :D
-Bruce

[photographergirl]

Addictive stuff, eh? ;)
BTW, WELCOME to the forum! :D
-Bruce

Thanks! Been a member for a while. Mostly on DPP but was wanting to talk more Canon talk then what they talk about so I am back here! Glad I decided to amazing pictures around here.

[macro junkie]

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l71/slingnau/GH7-1.jpg
lovely image

[photographergirl]

lovely image


Thanks I have more on my myspace and my better photo. That image is just what came to mind first. But I love my sigma lens and now I am going to get a bracket so I can put my flash on and do some other types of macro. I am sure people already think I am the crazy lady in her yard taking pictures of blades of grass..lol Now it will get much worse now that I know a few new things. QUESTION ... You set your flash to slave or do you use it on ETTL.. I have the 430Ex

[troypiggo]

I leave it on 430EX. The slave setting is only if you have something else to act as master, like a 580EXII, MT-24EX, ST-E2 etc. If the 430EX is your only flash, and for macro work, keep E-TTL. Might even pay to dial down the flash exposure compensation (FEC) to -2/3 - play with it a little.

PS - rather than asking these questions in the "show us your macro rig" thread, I'd make a new post in the flash equipment section to ask about flash, and if you want to share more photos, use the macro photo sharing section ;)

[macro junkie]

Thanks I have more on my myspace and my better photo. That image is just what came to mind first. But I love my sigma lens and now I am going to get a bracket so I can put my flash on and do some other types of macro. I am sure people already think I am the crazy lady in her yard taking pictures of blades of grass..lol Now it will get much worse now that I know a few new things. QUESTION ... You set your flash to slave or do you use it on ETTL.. I have the 430Ex
slave is used for using other flashes..somthing like 580ex on your camara with your 430ex on slave the when u fire the shutter both flashes will fire..

yer i use TTL 100% of the time:)

[argyle]

I have the Sigma 150 Macro lens, along with several older manual focus lenses: a Tamron Adaptall 90/3.5 and an Olympus Zuiko 50/3.5. Both are razor sharp when using on my 5D (as well as the Sigma), but I just managed to get some of my really older stuff working with the 5D. A 1970's vintage Novoflex bellows unit, coupled with a 1960's vintage Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 105/3.5 short mount lens. Old gear, but works great with today's digital gear:

http://northlake.smugmug.com/photos/371548151_29jtd-XL.jpg

http://northlake.smugmug.com/photos/371547994_fNgsf-XL.jpg

http://northlake.smugmug.com/photos/371487487_nHYrg-XL.jpg

[photographergirl]

Wow that lens is really cool. And the images is very nice. Does all Sigma lens work with the 5D?

[macro junkie]

an example of what the mpe-65 can do..this is at full zoom 5:1 life size at f5.6

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3276/2859327598_a787cbb7ce_o.jpg

[troypiggo]

Since getting the MP-E 65 I have been playing with getting some better quality light. I used to have this setup with just a single flash (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=4633640&postcount=185).

Now I'm using a 580EXII on camera as master with the 430EX on bracket as slave. The diffusers are Lumiquest Softbox and Mini Softbox. I like them because they can fold up small and flat in my camera bag.

http://piggo.com/~troy/photos/00_equipment/macro_rig/img_3168.jpg

http://piggo.com/~troy/photos/00_equipment/macro_rig/img_3171.jpg


I have been testing with just the 100mm macro lens, not the MP-E 65, and the Softbox on camera lights sufficiently without the need for a bracket and the extra flash.

[macro junkie]

Since getting the MP-E 65 I have been playing with getting some better quality light. I used to have this setup with just a single flash (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=4633640&postcount=185).

Now I'm using a 580EXII on camera as master with the 430EX on bracket as slave. The diffusers are Lumiquest Softbox and Mini Softbox. I like them because they can fold up small and flat in my camera bag.



I have been testing with just the 100mm macro lens, not the MP-E 65, and the Softbox on camera lights sufficiently without the need for a bracket and the extra flash.

2Q..
1.what settings do u have the slave on
2..show me your best image using 2 flashes with mpe-65

[troypiggo]

G'day Scott.

1. I'm still experimenting, but have been playing with values between 0 and -2/3 FEC.
2. I think I have yet to take my best image, but if you ask because you're interested in seeing the lighting results:

Think the 580 lights up the bg quite well:
http://piggo.com/~troy/photos/2008/2008_09_14/500/img_9623.jpg (http://piggo.com/~troy/photos/2008/2008_09_14/1280/img_9623.jpg)

http://piggo.com/~troy/photos/2008_08_31/500/img_9406.jpg (http://piggo.com/~troy/photos/2008_08_31/1280/img_9406.jpg)

http://piggo.com/~troy/photos/2008_08_31/500/img_9445.jpg (http://piggo.com/~troy/photos/2008_08_31/1280/img_9445.jpg)

[nickso]

Thought I would share my macro rig.
I am finally building a light box tonight.

This is a contraption I built:
- Canon 40D
- Kenko 12-20-36 mm Extension Tubes
- Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
- 58-49mm Reversing Ring
- Minolta AF 35-70/F4 w/Macro Switch (Production end 1985)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3120/2530092302_acb4c881b2.jpg

Here are some macros I have captured, but I need better light.

President's eye from a bill:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2273/2530097768_8f1b74c005.jpg

Penny:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/2529280261_6acbbe8a6f.jpg

Grasshopper leg:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3044/2851739917_91e00e9062.jpg

This spider was only 3/8" long.....No Crop:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3133/2722800113_9e06e3c719.jpg

[Ballen Photo]

Hi Nick, What a GREAT first post! :)
WELCOME to the forum! ;)

This is a contraption I built:
- Canon 40D
- Kenko 12-20-36 mm Extension Tubes
- Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
- 58-49mm Reversing Ring
- Minolta AF 35-70/F4 w/Macro Switch (Production end 1985)

Have you worked out the magnification you're getting with all this mounted on your camera? :lol:
-Bruce

[nickso]

Thank you, I think I will hang around and see what I can give and take.

I have always wondered what my mag-X is but never took the time to see.
Let me see what I can do, I have a 6" steel ruler marked in 16th, 32nd, 64th and 100th

To the eye the 100th's looks like the edge of a file. ;)
I'll get back

-Nick

[rndman]

Hi Raikiri,

Ho do you control the aperture of the lens in the reverse position. There is no electric connection with the body.
I was looking for this solution, but could not figure out how to set the f stop.

Sorry for the phone pic. 400D, reversed 18-55mm IS and erm... nothing else. Got a flash diffuser on the way though.

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/8221/photo126sm8.jpg

[newb2pro_1day_or_so]

In this case, unless you have an older lense where the F stop is changeable from a physical dial on the lense, you have to take certain measures to make it happen. You need to figure out what the aperature will be at when you plan on using the lense. Put the lense on the front of the camera like you are shooting normally, press and hold the DOF preview button. This will stop the lense down to the aperature you plan on shooting with. While doing this, you will need to remove the lense from the camera, keeping the selected F stop in place. The only thing I recommend is that you have a cap to quickly place over the camera or be prepared to reverse the lense immediately to reduce dust in your camera. I hope this helps. FYI, the aperature will reset to wide open when the lense is remounted correctly and will need to be stopped down again if you plan on revorsing it after a fresh mount.

[Bubble]

nothing fancy. :)

http://www.aphanphoto.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/201.jpg

[rtester]

This is for handheld. Just got the attached Sigma 140DG and will be testing it at the reptile show this Saturday. I like the flash head off-shoe so I can see the area in front of the lens. Also makes a more sturdy, balanced grip with the bracket. Still learning flash and not the greatest at macro hand held, but we will see.

[Raikiri]

Hi Raikiri,

Ho do you control the aperture of the lens in the reverse position. There is no electric connection with the body.
I was looking for this solution, but could not figure out how to set the f stop.


Hey, I fit the lens on the correct way and set the aperture in manual mode (f11-f16 are usually suitable for most shots) and then remove the lens while holding the DOF preview button.
The lens will retain the smaller aperture while reversed, it will mean the viewfinder is quite dark but it's perfectly usable in normal daylight.

Edit: oops, didn't see newb2pro_1day_or_so's reply. He is quite correct :)

[macro junkie]

nothing fancy. :)

http://www.aphanphoto.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/201.jpg

nothing fancy lol..yer right...thats probely the best macro rig on the market ;)

[rndman]

Thanks Dan & Raikiri!

It is intimidating though! To remove the lens with camera on :eek:

In this case, unless you have an older lense where the F stop is changeable from a physical dial on the lense, you have to take certain measures to make it happen. You need to figure out what the aperature will be at when you plan on using the lense. Put the lense on the front of the camera like you are shooting normally, press and hold the DOF preview button. This will stop the lense down to the aperature you plan on shooting with. While doing this, you will need to remove the lense from the camera, keeping the selected F stop in place. The only thing I recommend is that you have a cap to quickly place over the camera or be prepared to reverse the lense immediately to reduce dust in your camera. I hope this helps. FYI, the aperature will reset to wide open when the lense is remounted correctly and will need to be stopped down again if you plan on revorsing it after a fresh mount.

[number six]

Thanks Dan & Raikiri!

It is intimidating though! To remove the lens with camera on :eek:

Nothing to it. Just do it. No problem...

-js

[macro junkie]

Thanks Dan & Raikiri!

It is intimidating though! To remove the lens with camera on :eek:
it wont matter

[macro junkie]

This is for handheld. Just got the attached Sigma 140DG and will be testing it at the reptile show this Saturday. I like the flash head off-shoe so I can see the area in front of the lens. Also makes a more sturdy, balanced grip with the bracket. Still learning flash and not the greatest at macro hand held, but we will see.
i use to own the sigma one..i think it needed diffusing a bit,.

[rtester]

i use to own the sigma one..i think it needed diffusing a bit,.

Yea, I'm trying to make one from a tank float. Not sure if that will work. But its only about $3 so worth a shot.

[rndman]

it wont matter

Thanks.

I am also looking for a flash bracket for macro work.

What are the recommendations?

[macro junkie]

Thanks.

I am also looking for a flash bracket for macro work.

What are the recommendations?
i used nova flex flash racket..cost 70£ tho :evil: dont buy it from here as its over priced but just to show u..very nice build quality. the thing on top unscrews http://www.adorama.com/NVFGB.html

[photographergirl]

I have a question and sorry if this is not the thread. BUT I have the 40D and my macro lens is the Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG APO Macro lens. What type of extender (if that is the correct word) would I use with this lens. I want to get closer basically. Sorry if I don't sound or say it more technical.

[DreDaze]

I have a question and sorry if this is not the thread. BUT I have the 40D and my macro lens is the Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG APO Macro lens. What type of extender (if that is the correct word) would I use with this lens. I want to get closer basically. Sorry if I don't sound or say it more technical.


extension tubes will allow you to focus closer...

[rndman]

i used nova flex flash racket..cost 70£ tho :evil: dont buy it from here as its over priced but just to show u..very nice build quality. the thing on top unscrews http://www.adorama.com/NVFGB.html

Thanks. It's pricey though. How about the one below? That looks more flexible.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/551443-REG/Bogen_Manfrotto_330B_330B_Macro_Flash_Bracket.html

[choe]

this has seriously got to be the craziest thread i have ever seen

[photographergirl]

extension tubes will allow you to focus closer...



Thats exactly what I am wanting but was wondering is there a certain brand or kind that will go with my sigma lens? Or does that not really matter?

[DreDaze]

many use the kenko set...it's about 120 off of ebay and comes with three sizes 12-20-36...you can use one or a combination of multiples...it allows you to autofocus still...there are the canon brand tubes as well...but one costs just as much as the kenko set does...and there is only air in them so you're not really getting much more

my recommendation is to go with the kenko's...they will work great with your lens

[macro junkie]

Thats exactly what I am wanting but was wondering is there a certain brand or kind that will go with my sigma lens? Or does that not really matter?
set of kenko tubes will give you 2:1 life size

[photographergirl]

set of kenko tubes will give you 2:1 life size

many use the kenko set...it's about 120 off of ebay and comes with three sizes 12-20-36...you can use one or a combination of multiples...it allows you to autofocus still...there are the canon brand tubes as well...but one costs just as much as the kenko set does...and there is only air in them so you're not really getting much more

my recommendation is to go with the kenko's...they will work great with your lens




Okay thanks!

[DreDaze]

set of kenko tubes will give you 2:1 life size

ummm...i'm most likely totally wrong here...but i thought it would only give about 1:1...isn't the magnification normally calculated by mm in tubes:mm in focal length....so it'd be 68:70...right?...or is there a different way to figure it out?

[simwells]

ummm...i'm most likely totally wrong here...but i thought it would only give about 1:1...isn't the magnification normally calculated by mm in tubes:mm in focal length....so it'd be 68:70...right?...or is there a different way to figure it out?

That is the basic idea yes, but it depends on what point you're starting at, if you already had 1:1 then added another 70mm it'd get you too 2:1. The Sigma is a semi macro with around 1:2 (as far as I remember) and so you would likely get around 1.5:1 in reality.

[macro junkie]

ummm...i'm most likely totally wrong here...but i thought it would only give about 1:1...isn't the magnification normally calculated by mm in tubes:mm in focal length....so it'd be 68:70...right?...or is there a different way to figure it out?
macro lens is 1:1 allready..adding ful set of kenko tubes gives you 2:1 :cool:

[simwells]

macro lens is 1:1 allready..adding ful set of kenko tubes gives you 2:1 :cool:

Yeah but he mentioned the sigma 70-300 which is only semi macro, is it not? Sigma tend to use Macro as a buzz word rather than a technical spec.

[number six]

The Sigma 70-300 APO focuses to 1:2.

-js

[hofajoab]

Just got into this a day or two ago.

Sigma 70-300mm
Nikon 35-80mm Reversed

1. Setup
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v407/Project_Sapphire/macrosig_setup.jpg

[macro junkie]

Just got into this a day or two ago.

Sigma 70-300mm
Nikon 35-80mm Reversed

1. Setup
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v407/Project_Sapphire/macrosig_setup.jpg

lol..what life size is that>?

[hofajoab]

no idea how to work out the ratios etc yet..

here's a shot of a ball point pen, not great and a lot of halo'ing/fringing.. bare flash light though so i don't know if that was the problem.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v407/Project_Sapphire/macrosig_4.jpg

[Samdiver74]

lol..what life size is that>?


He'll be able to get close to 3-4X possibly, I used to get close to 5X with my old Sigma 70-300 and Reversed 28mm, you'll get heavy vignetting between 70-135mm.
Definitely need Extra light from flash

[hockeyplaya13]

What did you use to attach the sigma to the nikon lens?

[hofajoab]

52mm-58mm step-up ring glued to a 58mm-52mm step-down ring.

[Samdiver74]

I used to use 58mm to 58mm male to male Macro coupler
http://www.camerafilters.com/detail.aspx?id=1351
and then a 52mm to 58mm step-up ring.
http://www.camerafilters.com/detail.aspx?id=110
Totaling about $18

I recently went and purchased a 77mm Macro coupler and step-up ring for my 100-400 lens. So now I have an IS, reversed macro lens
Hope this info helps.

[mecam]

Planning on getting some Kenko tubes.

http://www.10374.com/pics/macrocam.jpg

[hockeyplaya13]

Alright, so when reversing lenses, how do you go about focusing? And can you reverse any lenses, or just particular ones? Sorry bout all the newb questions!

[Samdiver74]

Alright, so when reversing lenses, how do you go about focusing? And can you reverse any lenses, or just particular ones? Sorry bout all the newb questions!


Depending on how far you have zoomed.
at 300mm on the Siggy and at 50mm on the attached you can get close to 4x-5x magnification.
I found that to increase magnification the reversed lens needs to be less than 50mm, to decrease magnification, it needs to be greater than 50mm
So with an attached 28mm lens reversed you'll achieve approx 6x-7x mag and also some funky focusing with an extremely shallow depth of field.

As others using the reverse technique have said make sure all aperture control is done through the camera with the main Sigma lens attached.

As for actual focusing, this gets very tricky and requires a lot of trial and error and patience.
Set the Sigma lens to Manual focus (MF) it doesn't really matter where the lens is focused but set it on Infinity.
Rocking back and forth very slowly whilst looking through the viewfinder you'll see areas come into and go out of focus, learn to perfect this technique.
You'll soon learn that even as you breathe, that it will play major havoc with your focusing, especially on higher magnifications, try and perfect the technique on inanimate objects first to understand where your set-ups strengths and weaknesses are, then the fun really begins when you try and chase bugs with a slight afternoon breeze
good luck.

[hockeyplaya13]

OK. I just ordered a reverse male/male 52mm coupling ring. I plan on trying this with my 55-250mm and the kit lens (18-55) reversed. And, just to clarify, I change the focus on the 55-250 and leave the reversed lens be, right? Should I set the reversed lens to -infinity?

[Samdiver74]

both lenses you don't mess with the focusing. so set both to infinity and just rock back and forth with your body to achieve focus.

[number six]

OK. I just ordered a reverse male/male 52mm coupling ring. I plan on trying this with my 55-250mm and the kit lens (18-55) reversed. And, just to clarify, I change the focus on the 55-250 and leave the reversed lens be, right? Should I set the reversed lens to -infinity?

You can focus with the lens reversed, no problem. You'll need to set the aperture you want, then hold down the DOF button while removing the lens (camera on). That aperture will remain set in the lens.

-js

[hockeyplaya13]

Got it. Awesome, thanks for the help.

[photobitz]

I recently went and purchased a 77mm Macro coupler and step-up ring for my 100-400 lens. So now I have an IS, reversed macro lens


Got any pics of what that setup looks like?

[Samdiver74]

photobitz (Dan)
I'll have some pics by tonight, are you wanting pics of the set-up or pics taken with the set-up.
It is just a regular Canon 100-400 with a reversed 50mm Canon FD mounted to the front of the 100-400, the whole rig combined is just shorter than the 100-400 with hood attached.

[rndman]

He'll be able to get close to 3-4X possibly, I used to get close to 5X with my old Sigma 70-300 and Reversed 28mm, you'll get heavy vignetting between 70-135mm.
Definitely need Extra light from flash

Not only that, it's too dark if there is less ambient light. Imagine looking through a lens stopped at f-16. But it pays off. Following few shots are just taken, not great subjects but shows potential of reverse magnification. I used 30D with body reverse ring and mounted old manual Rikkenon 28-70mm lens (that had aperture ring).

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/2987513827_2072f30232_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/2987514899_baf6437282_o.jpg

[photobitz]

photobitz (Dan)
I'll have some pics by tonight, are you wanting pics of the set-up or pics taken with the set-up.
It is just a regular Canon 100-400 with a reversed 50mm Canon FD mounted to the front of the 100-400, the whole rig combined is just shorter than the 100-400 with hood attached.

Pics of the setup. Sounds like a rather heavy rig for macro work. I have the 100-400 myself and I couldn't imagine trying to hold it steady enough by itself to do macro let alone with an FD lens mounted to the front.

[Samdiver74]

Pics of the setup. Sounds like a rather heavy rig for macro work. I have the 100-400 myself and I couldn't imagine trying to hold it steady enough by itself to do macro let alone with an FD lens mounted to the front.


It really isn't too bad, yeah it is heavy but so was the other set-up (Sigma lens) especially with the 580EX slung to the left or right.
At least now I have the 580EX attached to the Tripod ring
FD lens really isn't that heavy.
Here's a pic of the set-up
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/2950/08novmacrosetup01965372qz4.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/679/08novmacrosetup01471278vr1.jpg

http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/7279/08novmacrosetup01272732ru3.jpg

[photobitz]

Wowzers! And what magnification does that achieve?

[Samdiver74]

Dan
with the 50mm FD lens I can achieve the following Mags
2.2X at 100mm on the 100-400 lens
4.2X at 200mm
6.3X at 300mm
7.2X at 400mm

28mm FD lens
3.9X at 100mm (heavy vignetting due to max aperture f/2.8 on 28mm FD lens)
6.3X at 200mm (vignetting due to max aperture f/2.8 on 28mm FD lens)
8.4X at 300mm
12X at 400mm

here are some sample images taken.
Each division on the steel ruler is 1mm
2.2X at 100mm, 50mm reversed FD.
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3194/22x100mmah1.jpg


7.2X at 400mm, 50mm reversed FD.
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/7298/72x400mmjr5.jpg


3.9X at 100mm, 28mm reversed FD lens
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/6087/39x100mmsc6.jpg

12X at 400mm, 28mm reversed FD lens
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/7007/127x400mmwv0.jpg

[photobitz]

I see light is still an issue with this.

[macro junkie]

It really isn't too bad, yeah it is heavy but so was the other set-up (Sigma lens) especially with the 580EX slung to the left or right.
At least now I have the 580EX attached to the Tripod ring
FD lens really isn't that heavy.
Here's a pic of the set-up




http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/7279/08novmacrosetup01272732ru3.jpg


hahaha whats that weight?about 30 pounds :eek::lol: the mpe-65 weights just shy of 2 pounds.whats that lens weight?

[macro junkie]

Dan
with the 50mm FD lens I can achieve the following Mags
2.2X at 100mm on the 100-400 lens
4.2X at 200mm
6.3X at 300mm
7.2X at 400mm

28mm FD lens
3.9X at 100mm (heavy vignetting due to max aperture f/2.8 on 28mm FD lens)
6.3X at 200mm (vignetting due to max aperture f/2.8 on 28mm FD lens)
8.4X at 300mm
12X at 400mm

here are some sample images taken.
Each division on the steel ruler is 1mm
2.2X at 100mm, 50mm reversed FD.
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3194/22x100mmah1.jpg


7.2X at 400mm, 50mm reversed FD.
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/7298/72x400mmjr5.jpg


3.9X at 100mm, 28mm reversed FD lens

12X at 400mm, 28mm reversed FD lens


the shots look very soft?

[Samdiver74]

I see light is still an issue with this.

Yeah it is an issue primarily due to the stand off/working distance from subject to lens, at higher mags it is seriously close to the subject, to the point of being difficult to get good light in there to illuminate the subject.
Not to mention the 100-400 is a light hungry beast anyway.

Bare in mind that these shots were taken inside with very little ambient light only the TV on and a small reading lamp.
hence the reason why the images look a tad bit soft.


hahaha whats that weigh? about 30 pounds :eek::lol: the mpe-65 weights just shy of 2 pounds.whats that lens weight?

It is no different in weight than if I had the 580EX, better beamer, 100-400mm, 20D mounted together and was out shooting Birds, it all comes down to what you have available and what you are comfortable shooting with, I have the diversity of being able to shoot quite a few different subjects with a modular set-up, I'm not limited to just macro.

If I had spent $1600 (or should I say 1600 quid in your case) on the MPE and MT-24EX :rolleyes: I am sorry to say Scott but then I am stuck shooting macro, Don't get me wrong it is a great set-up, I am well aware of that. I just don't have an infinite income and Macro photography ain't paying my bills.

[macro junkie]

[quote=Samdiver74;6613472]

[macro junkie]

It is no different in weight than if I had the 580EX, better beamer, 100-400mm, 20D mounted together and was out shooting Birds, it all comes down to what you have available and what you are comfortable shooting with, I have the diversity of being able to shoot quite a few different subjects with a modular set-up, I'm not limited to just macro.

If I had spent $1600 (or should I say 1600 quid in your case) on the MPE and MT-24EX :rolleyes: I am sorry to say Scott but then I am stuck shooting macro, Don't get me wrong it is a great set-up, I am well aware of that. I just don't have an infinite income and Macro photography ain't paying my bills.

well you have a bad ass lens..i have wanted the 100-400mm for a long time.but if i wanted to shoot macro i would save up and get the right gear..not cheape tho is it..but that lens you got is the ****..one day il be getting one of them..shot any birds lately?got any stunning shots to link us using the 100-400mm, do u use 2x telel converter?

how much does the 100-400mm lens weight?

u make money from photography?wish i did

[Samdiver74]

Scott
Here are some images using the 100-400 lens, however being as this is a thread showing us your macro rig, I don't want to take the thread off topic.
But please feel free to browse my smugmug account.
(Weight of 100-400 lens is 3lbs according to B&H website)

Dragonfly shot using 100-400 and Kenko Extensions tubes
http://allanmorrisphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/5665594_vT9Xb#348787635_n4oPw

Space shuttle Discovery May 31st 2008 Launch
http://allanmorrisphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/5070903_8oNi6#305432141_kqbg4

White Egret using 100-400
http://allanmorrisphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/4248741#256126081_PABhs

Right now I use just the 100-400 but I want to get the 1.4X converter at some point, with a 2X converter I would loose 2 stops of light so with the 100-400 at 400mm (f/5.6) I would effectively have f/11 available and beyond but nothing below such as f/4.5, f/5.6 or f/8.0

I do get paid for the occasional photo shoot and I have sold a few fine art prints and I have had images published in Hotbike magazine, In fact I am due to have another bike I shot featured soon, but Photography isn't my career, I certainly can't live off the earnings to date, I just enjoy it as a hobby like most people.
I inspect bridges for a living.
I just want a small influx of cash so I can buy more equipment such as the MPE and MT-24EX.

The whole reason for me posting the shots of the 100-400 was so that others who are trying out Macro photography can see there are numerous ways to achieve a result.
Over the last few years I have learned a lot about what works and what doesn't and I feel ready to make the jump to the MPE and MT-24EX when funds will allow.

[macro junkie]

Scott
Here are some images using the 100-400 lens, however being as this is a thread showing us your macro rig, I don't want to take the thread off topic.
But please feel free to browse my smugmug account.
(Weight of 100-400 lens is 3lbs according to B&H website)

Dragonfly shot using 100-400 and Kenko Extensions tubes
http://allanmorrisphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/5665594_vT9Xb#348787635_n4oPw

Space shuttle Discovery May 31st 2008 Launch
http://allanmorrisphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/5070903_8oNi6#305432141_kqbg4

White Egret using 100-400
http://allanmorrisphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/4248741#256126081_PABhs

Right now I use just the 100-400 but I want to get the 1.4X converter at some point, with a 2X converter I would loose 2 stops of light so with the 100-400 at 400mm (f/5.6) I would effectively have f/11 available and beyond but nothing below such as f/4.5, f/5.6 or f/8.0

I do get paid for the occasional photo shoot and I have sold a few fine art prints and I have had images published in Hotbike magazine, In fact I am due to have another bike I shot featured soon, but Photography isn't my career, I certainly can't live off the earnings to date, I just enjoy it as a hobby like most people.
I inspect bridges for a living.
I just want a small influx of cash so I can buy more equipment such as the MPE and MT-24EX.

The whole reason for me posting the shots of the 100-400 was so that others who are trying out Macro photography can see there are numerous ways to achieve a result.
Over the last few years I have learned a lot about what works and what doesn't and I feel ready to make the jump to the MPE and MT-24EX when funds will allow.

the shuttle shots blew me away..and the dragon shots are great..you sure know how to use that lens dont you..1 day i will buy that lens:)

[Samdiver74]

the shuttle shots blew me away..and the dragon shots are great..you sure know how to use that lens dont you..1 day i will buy that lens:)

Thank you Scott, I appreciate it.

[rndman]

The sima bracket has the cold shoe, but no tripod screw. Your extension chord does not have any tightening knob or switch (the same as on actual 430ex or 580ex flash). So I am wondering how the flash is holding up on the bracket, just by friction? Is it secure.

I am seriously considering to go for svb-1 and the oc-3 cord, hence wanted to know.



I finally took a picture of my rig
Canon XTI with 100mm Macro, Kenko extension tudes(12mm,20mm & 36mm), off shoe cord, speedlite 420EX, ET67B hood,Sima SVB-1 Flash Bracket & homemade diffuser.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/luis452/DSC00003Small.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/luis452/DSC00004Small.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/luis452/DSC00006Small.jpg

and here are the results

http://luis452.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p531761254.jpg

http://luis452.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p471397130.jpg

[friz]

Here's mine. Newly minted this AM.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/P1020738.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/P1020743.jpg

[macro junkie]

Here's mine. Newly minted this AM.

show us some pics:)

[friz]

show us some pics:)

You asked for it!

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/IMG_0882.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/IMG_0872.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/IMG_0919.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/IMG_0933.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/P1020744.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/IMG_0988.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/frizz1/IMG_0950.jpg



What would I gain by going to tubes or a dedicated macro lens?

[fredygump]

I have a subtle variaton to the Canon 40D, Sigma 150mm f/2.8, kenko extension tube, sigma 1.4x TC, mt-24ex. It comes in at up to 2.8x magnification.

(Camera not included in photo because I needed to use it to take this image...and my camera phone is the worlds most efficient image noise generator in the world..I'm absolutely convinced.)

My diffusers make a significant improvement for lighting with the mt-24ex given the min. focusing distance. It's not as adaptable as I'd like... The way the 24ex is set up stock, the flashes are too close to the lens, in my opinion, in relation of the min focusing distance of the 150mm lens--even with the tubes.

Just give me time and give me bugs--I'll learn to do this macro thing one way or another... (I just put this together, and now it's winter... Arrrrrgggg.....)

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/%3Ca%20href=%22http://www.flickr.com/photos/fredygump/3004960070/%22%20title=%221%20%20Mark%20II%20flash%20diffuser s%20for%20mt-24ex%20by%20fredygump,%20on%20Flickr%22%3E%3Cimg%2 0src=%22http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3034/3004960070_6e91475115_b.jpg%22%20width=%221024%22% 20height=%22683%22%20alt=%221%20%20Mark%20II%20fla sh%20diffusers%20for%20mt-24ex%22%20/%3E%3C/a%3E

[macro junkie]

The way the 24ex is set up stock, the flashes are too close to the lens,

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/%3Ca%20href=%22http://www.flickr.com/photos/fredygump/3004960070/%22%20title=%221%20%20Mark%20II%20flash%20diffuser s%20for%20mt-24ex%20by%20fredygump,%20on%20Flickr%22%3E%3Cimg%2 0src=%22http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3034/3004960070_6e91475115_b.jpg%22%20width=%221024%22% 20height=%22683%22%20alt=%221%20%20Mark%20II%20fla sh%20diffusers%20for%20mt-24ex%22%20/%3E%3C/a%3E
thats what u wont..the closer the flash is to the subject the better,.il be interested to see your images tho with thos diffusers.got any pics of bugs?

[brecklundin]

I finally came up with a flash bracket that I had pictured in my head for macro yet could also be use for other sorts of photography even if that means the addition or subtraction of a couple accessories/adapters.

I bought a Stroboframe Stroboflip VH-2000. I grabbed a generic off-camera flash cable with a tiling mount, and have a couple more parts coming by midweek. The two parts still on the way are a Giottos MH-1004 mini ball head and a generic thing called an Ultrapod Ultramount Ball Head (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/239983-REG/Ultrapod_PD03020_UltraMount_Universal_Ball_Head.ht ml) both from B&H. Once I have all the parts I will have a flash that can reach the end of my Sigma 180 with no problem and also be positioned vertically to help with portrait or certain product shots. All told i did spend a bit more than I had though...about $125 for everything...cable, bracket, head, extension/adapter, shipping and everything.

Here is a shot of the rig stock with just the 40" extension cable on top of the Stroboflip:

http://www.brecklundin.com/POTN/P1011373.jpg

As you can see there is still a fair amount of distance between the end of the lens (without the hood) and the flash. This is why I ordered the other two parts last night from B&H. Still the position of the flash is great and the frame is super lightweight.

On top of it all the Stroboflip is a no brainer to use. To use it in portrait orientation you move the flash not the camera AND there is no handle to get in the way. I have a thickish hand so there can be a bit of a snug fit between my fingers and the frame but that is prolly due the the Camera Armor on the body adding a few mm...

Flipping the flash to portrait takes all of about 1.5secs. It's smooth and just completely transparent to shooting. I really like that part. Here are shots of the rig in 45° and full portrait positions:

http://www.brecklundin.com/POTN/P1011378.jpg

http://www.brecklundin.com/POTN/P1011377.jpg

I really do not notice the existence of the frame/bracket at all. so far all I have used it for is just the usual numpty shots to get a feel for it. The only issue I have found is the flip part is a tad easy to slide into the 45° position if you just tilt the camera while holding it...I think I just need to snug up one of the pivot bolts a tad to stiffen the movement. Even if that does not work, I am happy with it for sure...

oops, this was more of a review...d'oh!! hehehehe...

I'll add another shot of it when I get the other parts later this week. But here is a last shot from the other side of the setup in landscape orientation:

http://www.brecklundin.com/POTN/P1011375.jpg

EDIT: I know these are a couple extra shots but the rest of my parts got here so I wanted to share some closer shots of them and how they work for new guys like me who are feeling our way along. Adding the mini-ball head and the extra adapter worked PERFECTLY for giving me the reach to the end of the lens with hood or vertically elevating the flash enough for other uses:

http://www.brecklundin.com/POTN/P1011379.jpg

http://www.brecklundin.com/POTN/P1011388.jpg http://www.brecklundin.com/POTN/P1011390.jpg

[TheSonofDarwin]

I think I already showed mine here or in another similar thread. I just wanted to warn people against taping the outside of their flashes... I did the same thing - personal reflector taped on with plain black electrical tape. Well I took it off the other day to do non-macro flash work and to my surprise the flash melted the casing only where the tape was touching it. Would no longer flip horizontal and the built-in diffuser wouldn't come out. Still flashed (that's why I never noticed!).

Luckily it was still under warranty and I just received it back from repair today. I think I vaguely recall reading another similar horror story before but didn't heed the warning. I shant be taping anything to the outside any more ;)

Edit: Should probably mention that it was a Canon speedlight, so not a quality issue.

[Pinto]

I think I already showed mine here or in another similar thread. I just wanted to warn people against taping the outside of their flashes... I did the same thing - personal reflector taped on with plain black electrical tape. Well I took it off the other day to do non-macro flash work and to my surprise the flash melted the casing only where the tape was touching it. Would no longer flip horizontal and the built-in diffuser wouldn't come out. Still flashed (that's why I never noticed!).

Luckily it was still under warranty and I just received it back from repair today. I think I vaguely recall reading another similar horror story before but didn't heed the warning. I shant be taping anything to the outside any more ;)

Edit: Should probably mention that it was a Canon speedlight, so not a quality issue.

Interesting. How was the repair handled under warranty? What did the repair statement show as the cause of damage?

Also I would think if tape did that to your flash case, the thousands of users with Velcro strips glued around their flash heads would also be having problems. I would think that Velcro would have more of an effect than electrical tape because it's thickness would create more insulation and heat in that specific area.

[TheSonofDarwin]

Interesting. How was the repair handled under warranty? What did the repair statement show as the cause of damage?

Also I would think if tape did that to your flash case, the thousands of users with Velcro strips glued around their flash heads would also be having problems. I would think that Velcro would have more of an effect than electrical tape because it's thickness would create more insulation and heat in that specific area.

I think electrical tape is intended to prevent heat transfer? Resists melting and won't catch fire. I'm not sure to be honest.

As for the statement, obviously I didn't explain how it happened. I just explained the problem and they fixed it. Statement says...

Examination: Burnt out, Will not tilt horizontally, check and clean all functions, acknowledgment of receipt only (means I didn't send in my warrant card but instead a copy of my receipt)

Service details: We have examined the product according to your quest, and, it was found that the part had suffered burn damage the flash did not flash. The part was replaced. Other electrical adjustments and inspection and cleaning were carried out.
---Not sure what they mean the flash did not flash... it worked fine for me.

[Tendy]

Well i have no flashgun that works with Tendy so I have to find other methods
http://fc52.deviantart.com/fs38/f/2008/347/a/5/My_Macro_setup_by_Stumm47.jpg

[Brypan]

Don't laugh at me :P. I have a very primitive macro rig. It is just the kit lens set to 18mm and farthest focus range flipped backwards and a flash contraption I made myself to fit on top of the regular flash.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m117/bocajana14/IMG_3561.jpg
Sorry for the bad picture and messy backround.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m117/bocajana14/IMG_3796.jpg?t=1229798614
(Picture taken with rig as shown above.)

It is actually very effective. It cost me $0 extra (the flash is filtered by a piece of tupperware, tape, and papertowel). I hold the lens by the camera myself, but does that damage the lens or the camera? Is is much safer to invest in a connector?

[Tendy]

Don't laugh at me :P. I have a very primitive macro rig. It is just the kit lens set to 18mm and farthest focus range flipped backwards and a flash contraption I made myself to fit on top of the regular flash.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m117/bocajana14/IMG_3561.jpg
Sorry for the bad picture and messy backround.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m117/bocajana14/IMG_3796.jpg?t=1229798614
(Picture taken with rig as shown above.)

It is actually very effective. It cost me $0 extra (the flash is filtered by a piece of tupperware, tape, and papertowel). I hold the lens by the camera myself, but does that damage the lens or the camera? Is is much safer to invest in a connector?

Hey thats pretty cool. Basically you're using the lens reversed. Only thing is you can't stop the lens down so have use it wide open which means a shallow depth of field and soft images-great for artistic shots tho. Better still reverse another short focal length lens onto the kit zoom set to its longest. Reverse a 50mm onto the 18-55 set to 55 and you'll get just over lifesize.

[DreDaze]

Hey thats pretty cool. Basically you're using the lens reversed. Only thing is you can't stop the lens down so have use it wide open which means a shallow depth of field and soft images-great for artistic shots tho. Better still reverse another short focal length lens onto the kit zoom set to its longest. Reverse a 50mm onto the 18-55 set to 55 and you'll get just over lifesize.

i may be entirely wrong here(wouldn't be the first time)...but i thought that you could set the aperture of the lens...hit the DOF preview button...and remove the lens, and then your aperture is still set to whatever you set it to...

again i think i read this somewhere, i've never done it myself though...i'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong

[brecklundin]

I can confirm that works. I have a set of tubes w/o electronics I grabbed for $15 and do just that when playing with them. I was not in the mood to spend $150 for tubes so I went low tech and read the solution you posted here before buying them.

The funny part was I had not realized there was no aperture ring on my lenses until then...bright aren't I? hahahaha...

BTW, Tendy, very slick rig and setup. And like DreDaze mentioned you can adjust the aperture, it's just a PITA. Still if that is what you have to work with then that is what ya gotta do. I find to does make me think more before a shot when I am using my tubes.

[number six]

i may be entirely wrong here(wouldn't be the first time)...but i thought that you could set the aperture of the lens...hit the DOF preview button...and remove the lens, and then your aperture is still set to whatever you set it to...

Yep, that's how to do it.

-js

[Brypan]

i may be entirely wrong here(wouldn't be the first time)...but i thought that you could set the aperture of the lens...hit the DOF preview button...and remove the lens, and then your aperture is still set to whatever you set it to...

again i think i read this somewhere, i've never done it myself though...i'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong

Do you need to hold the DOF button in? It does not seem to work for me.

[brecklundin]

yes you must hold the DOF button while removing the lens. Leave the camera turned on also. And I am assuming you have already set the aperture to what you wish to try before pressing the DOF preview button (just mentioning that to be sure... ;))

[Brypan]

yes you must hold the DOF button while removing the lens. Leave the camera turned on also. And I am assuming you have already set the aperture to what you wish to try before pressing the DOF preview button (just mentioning that to be sure... ;))

Yes, but do you need to keep holding the DOF preview button until taking the picture? The would require three hands. Also, I knew to set the aperture, but justo be sure, lower aperture means brighter and sharper, correct?

[Tendy]

There's just one or two issues with this method. One is you can't possibly know what aperture you're gonna need if you want precise DOF,(and sometimes using a lens at its smallest aperture is not the best solution with macro as you get diffraction) and Two all that removing and replacing of the lens is gonna introduce dust onto the sensor. Much better to get a $2 coupling ring and attach a shorter lens in reverse onto the front of your main lens. Problem solved as you have full control again. You just use the aperture on the reversed lens to get the DOF you want.

[brecklundin]

Yes, but do you need to keep holding the DOF preview button until taking the picture? The would require three hands. Also, I knew to set the aperture, but justo be sure, lower aperture means brighter and sharper, correct?

no reason for that...try it on a lens and look through it after removing it from the body and note the size of the aperture set on the lens, then remount the lens, change the aperture and remove it again...then look and you will see the difference. Remember the aperture is set in the lens not the camera...plus when attached to tubes (non-conducting) or reverse mounted there is no electrical connection between the lens and camera which is the whole reason for this procedure to begin with. ;)

FYI, lower aperture number = BIGGER opening hence more light and probably less DOF. Whether it is Sharp enough depends on the lens and the aperture at which the lens works "best".

[brecklundin]

There's just one or two issues with this method. One is you can't possibly know what aperture you're gonna need if you want precise DOF,(and sometimes using a lens at its smallest aperture is not the best solution with macro as you get diffraction) and Two all that removing and replacing of the lens is gonna introduce dust onto the sensor. Much better to get a $2 coupling ring and attach a shorter lens in reverse onto the front of your main lens. Problem solved as you have full control again. You just use the aperture on the reversed lens to get the DOF you want.

Very true about the potential for more dust...as for the knowing the aperture ahead of time...yes and no...we sould know the correct aperture really, plus you have shutter speed and ISO to control exposure.

But I agree an adapter ring and a manual lens is the best option over non-conducting tubes. That was why earlier (I think it wwas this thread??) I suggested an adapter and haunting a local thrift shop for faster old lenses for next to nothing...as long as the aperture on a lens changes as ya move the dial it will probably be OK to take a chance with...of course it would have been dropped about 1000-times and be completly out of alignment... ;)

[Tendy]

Very true about the potential for more dust...as for the knowing the aperture ahead of time...yes and no...we sould know the correct aperture really, plus you have shutter speed and ISO to control exposure.

But I agree an adapter ring and a manual lens is the best option over non-conducting tubes. That was why earlier (I think it wwas this thread??) I suggested an adapter and haunting a local thrift shop for faster old lenses for next to nothing...as long as the aperture on a lens changes as ya move the dial it will probably be OK to take a chance with...of course it would have been dropped about 1000-times and be completly out of alignment... ;)

Not necessarily. I have an old Hanimex 28mm which has a stiff focus ring but works fine reversed onto the 100mm giving me 3.5x
No need for a faster lens either as the rear element which is smaller the front becomes the front element when reversed.

[brecklundin]

Not necessarily....

not necessarily? in what context? Really I thought I was agreeing with your comment?? Whadidimiss? :D

EDIT: Oh, I get it...as long as the reversed lens can be opened up then you can adjust the aperture with the lens on the body...I get it now. I had it in my head of just using a reversed lens attached to the body...d'oh!!

[Tendy]

not necessarily? in what context? Really I thought I was agreeing with your comment?? Whadidimiss? :D

EDIT: Oh, I get it...as long as the reversed lens can be opened up then you can adjust the aperture with the lens on the body...I get it now. I had it in my head of just using a reversed lens attached to the body...d'oh!!

No i meant not necessarily that a secondhand lens will be out of alignment. I bought a used 50mm Pentax lens for £15 and its a corker! Oh and if using a lens reversed onto another lens you should keep the lens thats attached to the body wide open and stop down the reversed lens. If you stop down the body lens you get vignetting.

[brecklundin]

No i meant not necessarily that a secondhand lens will be out of alignment.

Good gawd, you are wearing me out...exactly where did I write that as an absolute? In fact I was SUGGESTING to find cheap lenses at what we call Thrift Stores (places which as a rule sell used donated items to fund charity organizations and causes). I did make a JOKE and semi-serious editorial comment, that you are indeed taking a chance though, as you have no idea of the history of the lens...plus logically you cannot return the thing either.

EDIT: ahhh...I see, earlier i wrote "would" when I was thinking COULD have been dropped 1000x...hehehehe...just a bit of a difference I suppose... ;)

...I bought a used 50mm Pentax lens for £15 and its a corker! Oh and if using a lens reversed onto another lens you should keep the lens thats attached to the body wide open and stop down the reversed lens. If you stop down the body lens you get vignetting.

Cool!! thanks for the point about which lens should be opened...I had not thought it through...d'oh!! The other way around causing vignetting does seem obvious once it's pointed out...hehehe...

[Brypan]

Heh, thanks for all of the suggestions. Well, all I have now is one big telephoto lens, which would not be reasonable to use for this purpose, and my kit lens. Eventually, I will be a small 50mm lens, but not for a while. So for now I will just use my method, with just the kit lens reversed on the camera body, hoping the sensor stays clean. I just have one more question, I can't seem to find an adapter ring for a resonable price. Besides ebay, where can I got one. A store like Ritz Camera? Thanks for the help.

(Sorry if I got a little off topic.)

[Raikyn]

My humble current setup.

My left arm is my ever so flexible bracket. If I want the flash on the left I can hold both flash and lens at the same time. If I want the flash on the right I use my left hand to hold the flash and rest the lens on the left wrist.
Sounds funny, but seems to work well enough atm.

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/6049/macrosetup800x533uf9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Tendy]

Cool!! thanks for the point about which lens should be opened...I had not thought it through...d'oh!! The other way around causing vignetting does seem obvious once it's pointed out...hehehe...

Yea its been a while since I did this and was a bit rusty. The great thing about digital is you can see the results in seconds and then a light goes on. Duh,I need to stop down the reversed lens!

[newb2pro_1day_or_so]

Here's mine

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/Iseethroughglass/MacroRig005.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/Iseethroughglass/MacroRig006.jpg

[Tendy]

Here's mine


http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/Iseethroughglass/MacroRig006.jpg

Cool,another reverser!

[TheSonofDarwin]

Here's mine

I use that setup too! Gets a bit much to handle with the flash on a bracket though. Feels like a workout after finishing shooting :lol:

[airdima]

lots of superb setups here :)

Here's mine. got the tubes set a few days ago, gonna try it this weekend. a homemade softbox which works wonderfully. other than that got a big order from B&H that i should get in a month or so (israeli customs sux) which should upgrade my macro rig sufficiently ;)

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/1464/img5318bd3.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/3157/img5320vc0.jpg

pics taken with this setup (minus the extentson tubes) can be seen here
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=621839

[Tendy]

Thats some softbox!