View Full Version : Concert Photography with a Power Shot S2 IS
tvmlumpy
5th of March 2006 (Sun), 20:01
Got a new Power Shot S2 IS. Desperately seeking knowledge and the best advice on taking good concert photos with my new camera. The venues are basically in small clubs with minimal lighting. I have played with many setting on the camera and I am looking for the perfect setting that will give me the clear crisp picture I am trying to achieve. Any advice or guidance will be greatly appreciated !!:D
emidyl
5th of March 2006 (Sun), 20:58
First and most importantly, will you be allowed to use a flash? Otherwise you will be unlikely to capture much as most performers and venues do not allow flash. Dependent upon where and who you shoot, but majority of the time is a no-no.
Secondly, not very familar with the S2 but what equivalent max aperture are you able to obtain that can allow sufficient shutter to eliminate blur?
Those are your main concerns if there is full manual on the S2.
Cheers
dissembled
5th of March 2006 (Sun), 22:01
See..that's the thing about superzooms. The highest ISO settings aren't at all usuable w. very large pics.
Still..you have no choice unless you can bring a tripod w. you.
I recommend highest ISO (400) and download Neat Image beforehand. :P You will definately need it. If you can't bring a tripod, slowest shutter speed that people can use w.o camera shake is around 1/8. I have to elaborate..You must have steady hands.
The best type for nightshots are DSLRs. You should use them if you got em.
Pixel9ine
6th of March 2006 (Mon), 00:02
If you can't bring a tripod, slowest shutter speed that people can use w.o camera shake is around 1/8. I have to elaborate..You must have steady hands.
The best type for nightshots are DSLRs. You should use them if you got em.1/8sec?! I haven't been able to get any decent handheld shots below 1/30 sec.. but that's just me. if you can't bring a tripod, or are afraid it would be too conspicuous, use a monopod instead. Sometimes a little support is all you need in order to gain an extra stop or two. As well, ISO 400 on the S2 is "use at your own risk"... noise gets pretty bad at anything above ISO 100.. Neat Image might help, but it can't work miracles.
Finally, the previous post was right.. nothing beats DSLR for night/low-light shots, which is probably why I'm considering the investment in a Rebel XT or similar. With a DSLR, ISO 400 has much less noise than on a P&S, and you can even go up to 800 or 1600 if you have to!
But I digress.
If, by any remote chance at all, you can use a flash at this event... it would be your saving grace.
Brownie
7th of March 2006 (Tue), 15:06
Desperately seeking knowledge and the best advice on taking good concert photos with my new camera. The venues are basically in small clubs with minimal lighting.I am looking for the perfect setting that will give me the clear crisp picture I am trying to achieve.
I don't want to disencourage you tvmlumpy, but I'm pretty familiar with concert photography, and honestly I don't think you will be able to get 'clear crisp pictures' in 'small clubs with minimal lighting'. Not without using a flash anyway, which is often not done.
I often have to use my Canon DSLR's at ISO 1600, 1/60, 2.8.
Who was suggesting a tripod and 1/8 sec here? You don't honestly think the musicians will hold still for 1/8 of a sec, do you? ;-)
Regards,
Brownie
flugelboy
7th of March 2006 (Tue), 18:16
I have the S1-IS and have taken many many shots in concert and theatre venues. I'm no professional and it took me a while to figure out the settings, but you can get some really good shots with that camera. My only complaint is the at the settings I was using there was some noise in the shots. Other than that I am very impressed with what the S1 can do. I'm sure the S2 can do just as well and probably better. You can see in these photos just how good the 10x zoom is. The 12x will be even better!
All of these shots were taken in Shutter Priority at anywhere between 1/30 and 1/40. I played with other speeds but this area seemed to give me the best results. I set the ISO at 200. The max ISO on the S1 is 400 and the noise at that level is bad to say the least. The aperture is set automatically in this mode and I was not using the flash. It wouldn't have done much at that distance anyway.
The S1 and S2 are very similar in specs so these settings should be in the right area for you depending on the lighting. Good Luck!
http://www.chadwhite.com/Portals/0/Gallery/Album/4/IMG_1877.JPG
http://www.chadwhite.com/Portals/0/Gallery/Album/4/IMG_1899.JPG
http://www.chadwhite.com/Portals/0/Gallery/Album/4/IMG_1902.JPG
http://www.chadwhite.com/Portals/0/Gallery/Album/4/IMG_1907.JPG
dissembled
8th of March 2006 (Wed), 02:55
i must say for an old camera..those are quite something. props.
Pixel9ine
8th of March 2006 (Wed), 12:48
Those are some very impressive shots flugelboy!
Brownie
8th of March 2006 (Wed), 15:25
@flugelboy
tvmlumpy was asking about the possibilities of using the camera in "small clubs with minimal lighting". The pictures you are linking to are obviously taken of musicians on a large stage with LOTS of lighting. So, no way he could use anything close to your settings with minimal lighting.
And - sorry to be so direct about it - but they are unsharp due to the low shutter speeds. Of course there's nothing wrong with that as long as it's for your own use, and you just need them for web publishing or small prints.
Otherwise... Nice Pics!
Brownie
8th of March 2006 (Wed), 15:25
@tvmlumpy
If you are referring to "small clubs with minimal lighting", are you thinking about blues or jazz? Maybe I can give you some tips.
flugelboy
9th of March 2006 (Thu), 08:36
@brownie
Yes, I know he was talking about small clubs with minimal. I was just giving these settings as a starting point. Obviously every situation will be different. Up until my posts, he was getting answers mostly telling him that he won't get good results. I was trying to give him a little encouragement and a nudge in the right direction with the equipment that he has rather than just saying he'd get better results with equipment he doesn't have.
I have used that camera in much smaller settings with much less light and found that, at least for this camera, these settings (or close to these settings) have given me the best results. Not all of us have DSLRs with ISOs up to 1600 so we have to do the best we can with what we have.
Brownie
9th of March 2006 (Thu), 08:54
@flugelboy
Just trying to give an honest and correct answer. Best approach if you ask me...
t-bonestahl
9th of March 2006 (Thu), 22:46
Any chance you can shoot during a sound check?
As a musician I know that most of the time the venues will be checking or using thier stage lights during the sound check. If it is cool with the band you would probably get better shots at that time. I find that it is easier to position myself in ideal shooting locations while they are setting up and checking.
As far as photo quality....it's going to be noisy and maybe a little fuzzy like the others said. But, I bet you can get some good shots.:)
Here is one I took recently at the warm-up of a jazz concert. PowerShot A620 ISO 200, F2.8-4.1? 1/4? No Tri-pod
I did sharpen it and neat image it.
http://static.flickr.com/54/110173233_aca8b3ced6.jpg?v=0
Have fun.
t-bonestahl
johnthebaptist
10th of March 2006 (Fri), 16:56
@brownie
Yes, I know he was talking about small clubs with minimal. I was just giving these settings as a starting point. Obviously every situation will be different. Up until my posts, he was getting answers mostly telling him that he won't get good results. I was trying to give him a little encouragement and a nudge in the right direction with the equipment that he has rather than just saying he'd get better results with equipment he doesn't have.
I have used that camera in much smaller settings with much less light and found that, at least for this camera, these settings (or close to these settings) have given me the best results. Not all of us have DSLRs with ISOs up to 1600 so we have to do the best we can with what we have.
I will have to agree with this guy. I really like to visit these posts but some of you guys act like everyone is looking for something to print on a magazine cover. I currently have an S1 IS like flugelboy and I have some shots that I am extremely proud of and get "WOWs" all the time from the average Joe. I will also have to agree with the point about DSLRs. Not everyone has that kind of cash to throw around for a hobby that will not, for most of us :-), really give any money back in return. Just my point of view from the other side of the tracks.:lol::lol::eek::):D
Brownie
10th of March 2006 (Fri), 17:38
I really like to visit these posts but some of you guys act like everyone is looking for something to print on a magazine cover.
@johnthebaptist
I really like to visit these posts but some of you guys act like everyone who also owns a DSLR is just a bloody nuisance trying to brag about his camera.
I never said that one can not take good (concert) photos with an IS1/2. Neither did I say that it's a bad camera. I did say however that tvmlumpy will not get 'clear crisp pictures' in 'small clubs with minimal lighting'. That's giving correct information and has everything to do with being honest, and nothing with 'throwing around money'. If you are happy with the pictures you take, then fine... I'm happy for you. But don't make it sound like unsharp or unclear or underexposed pics have become a new standard in photography.
So stop tearing words from their context and don't insinuate that I or other DSLR-owners 'act like everyone is looking for something to print on a magazine cover'.
johnthebaptist
12th of March 2006 (Sun), 09:43
OK. So give us a lesson on the meaning of unsharp, unclear, and underexposed just to clear the air. Thanks much!
Screamer
12th of March 2006 (Sun), 12:29
@johnthebaptist
I really like to visit these posts but some of you guys act like everyone who also owns a DSLR is just a bloody nuisance trying to brag about his camera.
I never said that one can not take good (concert) photos with an IS1/2. Neither did I say that it's a bad camera. I did say however that tvmlumpy will not get 'clear crisp pictures' in 'small clubs with minimal lighting'. That's giving correct information and has everything to do with being honest, and nothing with 'throwing around money'. If you are happy with the pictures you take, then fine... I'm happy for you. But don't make it sound like unsharp or unclear or underexposed pics have become a new standard in photography.
So stop tearing words from their context and don't insinuate that I or other DSLR-owners 'act like everyone is looking for something to print on a magazine cover'.
JTB, I have to agree with Brownie here. I am not trying to troll/flame...but the original poster did state that sharp images from a smallish club with less than stellar lighting was the goal. With his current P&S it will be extremely difficult, but I would not say impossible. No reason to get defensive though.
I think we all know what a less than acceptable image from a venue looks like. But, I'll pony up an old one shot on a Nikon Coolpix about 3 years ago. The image is of Jerry Cantrell (Alice in Chains). He was actually nice enough to let me use flash, and as you can see it didn't help out that much...all in all, a pretty horrid shot.
full image
http://www.macinophotography.com/potn/jerry.jpg
!00% Crop Sample:
http://www.macinophotography.com/potn/jerrycrop.jpg
There are a number of reasons that this shot failed. But, one of the larger ones that nobody has mentioned yet, is shutter lag. No matter how you spin it shutter lag is still a PITA on P&S cameras. Especially in situations like this because the delay makes accurate exposure almost impossible amidst moving lights.
Here is where I'll share one of my secrets that will help you out. Most "intelligent" lighting in small to medium clubs is sync'd with the kick drum. If you can get a bead on its rhythm, you can possibly be in good shape. I do this and it usually lets me stay a full beat ahead of the lights.
The second thing you will need to do is make sure that you are using the "M" mode of your camera, not Tv, Av, or P etc...There is no way with lag that your camera will be able to accurately meter moving lights. I would suggest starting around ISO400 (P&S limited), 1/100th sec, short focal distance to start, and the widest aperture possible at the given focal length. I would also make sure to use AI-Servo focusing if your camera has it.
Here are some examples from smaller venues that I would consider sharp and have been printed in publication. But, these were taken with my MkIIn and 70-200L IS.
http://www.macinophotography.com/potn/lourds0.jpg
http://www.macinophotography.com/potn/lourds1.jpg
http://www.macinophotography.com/potn/lourds7.jpg
http://www.macinophotography.com/potn/lourds20.jpg
http://www.macinophotography.com/potn/sequence.jpg
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