Last two....

[cinci-photo]

Here's the last of them.
http://static.flickr.com/41/114435991_5655f9d43e.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/45/114435994_70be44f08f.jpg

[cmM]

nice shots, but do you really need 3 threads? :confused:

[cinci-photo]

Well...... I don't know. I guess I'm a stickler for rules. I thought I read in the osting rules about only posting a couple pictures per post. I've seen other postings with more than two pictures... I thought I might be pushing my luck posting more than 3.

Thanks for the comments.

[MALI]

#1 is too flat. More contrast and saturation needed. One of them has her eyes closed.

MALI

[cinci-photo]

#1 is too flat. More contrast and saturation needed. One of them has her eyes closed.

MALI

My post processing skills lead a little to be desired. I took tghis shot 4 times and this was the best of the group. Everyone was looking up and it was very sunny. I fuess, better luck next time.

[BLINN]

Just remember when shooting a group there is nothing worse then have closed eyes. For these shots I usually burst off 4 shots. I them double check to see if there are any closed eyes. Nice shot except for the BM with her eyes closed. This is the differance between Amature and Profesional.

[bpuppy]

The cake one is a snapshot ... too much depth of field ... skin tones are too dark ... flipped to black and white with a red filter might help it.

[cinci-photo]

The cake one is a snapshot ... too much depth of field ... skin tones are too dark ... flipped to black and white with a red filter might help it.

I'm not sure I agree with the "snapshot" comment. Although I am by far not a professional. If l were to take the time to work on DOF during the festivities of a reception, I would be more likely to miss a shot and not have the shots the client wanted. With the cake shot, as with most shots for the reception, I felt it important to have all items (glasses, hands, cake, etc.) in focus.

Are you a professional wedding photographer? I ask, because if so, I would like to know how you would handle an "action" shot and make sure you got everything you needed? Would you ask the couple to pose while cutting the cake while you adjusted the camera settings? I think this question is coming off as a smart a$$, but it's definitely not meant that way. I really am curious as I have a possible 2-3 more weddings this summer.

I love photography of all sorts, but I see potential in weddings as a source of suplemental income and I truly am interested in learning all I can.

Thanks for the help and comments.

[Wedding Shooter]

The first shot is composed nicely - open up levels on photoshop and move the sliders in a little and the middle slider to the right a little and you should see the contrast improve. As for the closed eyes - as you have other shots clone in the open eyes from another shot over the closed eyes in this shot. Than you will have the best of both.

As for the cake shot - snapshot is perhaps a little harsh. It is just a shame about the very strong shadow. I have detailed how to avoid those shadows in another post of yours. As for settings - you should have a good working knowledge of your camera that allows you to change settings quickly.

With the cake I will try to take some photos earlier in the night of the cake by itself. This will give me a good feel for what settings will be needed when the cutting is actually done.

With the lenses you have limited depth of field could also be difficult.

Cheers,

Chris

[bpuppy]

I'm not trying to be harsh ...but if you're getting paid, then you are by definition a professional. So you need to rise above simply getting snapshots, and documenting what happens ...

It's more about your equipment. I don't consider the kit lens worthy of shooting a paid wedding. It's not sharp, colorful or bright ... it makes what I'm suggesting basically impossible RE: DOF ...

I shoot wide open almost all the time, with a Tamron 28-75 (not an expensive lens, but sharp and bright f/2.8) ... this blurs the background and minimizes clutter. I don't spend time computing DOF in my head, I just shoot wide open and get as close as I can to the action.

[PIXI_666]

great advice on the quick 4 snaps blinn would never of thought of doing that lol

Del

[tim]

#1 looks a little aquward, has white ballance issues, and lacks contrast. In RAW you can fix the second two problems. Overall it's not bad, but it's not great.

#2 has white ballance problems and ugly shadows. I agree with bpuppy that it's a snapshot, but I know how hard it is to do cake cutting shots well, given it happens so quickly. I would love to see examples of cutting the cake shots from people who think they can do better.

[TeeJay]

I "don't do weddings";-), but isn't cake cutting a "posed" shot, and as the paid tog, you should be able to pause the action and get the couple to pose long enough for you to take some reasonable shots. If you don't then the buck stops with you for not having been organised. No?

Have to agree with Tim in that the first doesn't look natural - it seems the BM's are not comfortable in the position you want them in. Possibly getting some of them to be seated, rather than bent over?? (I know it's outside, but hey, you're in control!)

As for the cake shot, I'm just don't feel happy with it. The angle maybe isn't right, and I think my biggest problem is with the rather harsh shadows that not only need softening, but also seem to fall in all the wrong places. Were you using a on-camera flash for this shot?

Please don't take my comments wrong, that's what we are all here for, to help each other.

[BLINN]

Jamey, your comment does come off as being a smart ass. However, we are here to help not hurt you. So yes I am a wedding photographer or at least trying to be. I do get paid for shooting wedding but, this is not my primary job. Therefore I classify my self here as a semi-pro. One does professional work on a part time basis. Now to get to your question of camera settings. You usually have a few minutes to get ready before the B&G cut the cake. Take a few shots and do you adjustment then. But the third or fourth wedding you will automatically change your setting to suit the moment being captured. It shouldn't take any longer then 2 sec to chage your setting. If you are having difficaulties then you need to learn your equipment better and stop taking paid gigs. You may end up into a leagal battle that you will not win. With that said...if you can please the Bride and or the Brides Mother then you have done your job. Take all info from the fourm and learn from it. Keep to basics and learn them. The basics of photography should be like walking, you don't think about how to walk you just do it. If you have to think about photographing a wedding event you just might miss the most important shot. As for asking the couple the pose alittle longer, I see nothing wrong with that. I have even had to have them repose for a shot that some um um mess up with his 35mm slr and speedlite, it caused such bad shadows that I had no choice. you have to do what you have to do to get the shot. These are precious memories that the B&G will look back on for the rest of their lives. When the thrill is dead and gone, and year move on, the ony thing they have left to remember their special day will be the photographs that you took for them. If you stop and think about that, it is a HUGH responsability. Your are not a bad photographer, you just need to tweek yourself to get better. Good luck and keep on posting.

[cinci-photo]

Okay - Here's my final comment on this set of pictures. Thanks to all who commented. I apparently sounded like a jerk in one of my replies. That definitely was not my intention and I apologize. I know sometimes e-mail or written word doesn't come across as it is meant.

I haven't taken any exception to the comments. Quite the contrary.. I appreciate them. I was just wanting further information / instruction. So far, everyone has been happy with the pictures I've done for them (except maybe me - I'm pretty critical on myself). I will take all suggestions to heart and continue to practice. I've got a new lens coming - 50mm f/1.8 - and will take BPUPPY'S suggestion to heart about shooting wide open.

One last question for all. I do my editing on my laptop. It's got a truebrite screen and my photos look pretty good in terms of contrast and "pop" on that computer. When I post them here, everyone comments that the pics are flat. The contrast of the screen can't be adjusted, or at least I've not figured out how... and I've looked. Any suggestions - other than getting a different computer?

[tim]

Two thoughts:
- Get a screen at home, a CRT or good LCD (I use Samsung 910T LCD), and calibrate it. Without that you're flying blind.
- The 50mm F1.8 shouldn't be used wide open, its focus motor isn't accurate enough. When I traded up to the 50mm F1.4 USM my "keeper" rate climbed from below 50% to above 80%. If I were buying another fast prime now i'd get the Sigma 30mm F1.4, which is a better fit for a 1.6X crop sensor I think.

I've taken the liberty of doing a little processing on your first image. The first problem with it is you're working in the adobe RGB color space - images for the web MUST be in sRgb. Images for printing need to be in sRgb for most labs too, unless you specifically know otherwise.

I converted the image to sRgb, ran auto levels, then boosted the contrast a little. For the second version I ran an action I have called "duotone dream", which you may or may not like, but I think it's ok.

If you'd like me to remove these images from my post please PM me and i'll happy to do so. I know you don't have image editing turned on but I thought it was worthwhile to demonstrate what the I think the images should look like, since you're a fair way off with what you have now.

[bpuppy]

Glad to hear you're getting a 'nifty-fifty' ... you will love it.

RE: Your screen ... do you know anyone with a Mac laptop or iMac? Generally speaking, the mac screens are nicely calibrated and it would help to see your photos on a Mac screen so you can see if you're off or not.

[cinci-photo]

Glad to hear you're getting a 'nifty-fifty' ... you will love it.

RE: Your screen ... do you know anyone with a Mac laptop or iMac? Generally speaking, the mac screens are nicely calibrated and it would help to see your photos on a Mac screen so you can see if you're off or not.

I think I can take it to work. I work for a book printer/binder and we have Macs in our prep department. I can take mine and compare there. Looking forward to the receiving the lens.

[Darvon]

Tim, very nice re-do in the color composition. Does make it "pop" more.

[tim]

Ta Darvon. I should've been able to spot the color profile mismatch by eye, but I only did when I took it into PS to play.

[cinci-photo]

Two thoughts:
- Get a screen at home, a CRT or good LCD (I use Samsung 910T LCD), and calibrate it. Without that you're flying blind.
- The 50mm F1.8 shouldn't be used wide open, its focus motor isn't accurate enough. When I traded up to the 50mm F1.4 USM my "keeper" rate climbed from below 50% to above 80%. If I were buying another fast prime now i'd get the Sigma 30mm F1.4, which is a better fit for a 1.6X crop sensor I think.

I've taken the liberty of doing a little processing on your first image. The first problem with it is you're working in the adobe RGB color space - images for the web MUST be in sRgb. Images for printing need to be in sRgb for most labs too, unless you specifically know otherwise.

I converted the image to sRgb, ran auto levels, then boosted the contrast a little. For the second version I ran an action I have called "duotone dream", which you may or may not like, but I think it's ok.

If you'd like me to remove these images from my post please PM me and i'll happy to do so. I know you don't have image editing turned on but I thought it was worthwhile to demonstrate what the I think the images should look like, since you're a fair way off with what you have now.

Tim - I don't know how I missed your posting yesterday, but I guess I just scrolled down to the latest reply. I'm glad you mentioned the color space... I had someone mention that to me a few weeks ago, but I forgot to check my settings afterwards.

As far as the 1.8 goes... if the focus motor is accurate enough, it should be okay if manual focusing - right?

As far as you correcting my photos, that's fine. I don't mind. I will actually go in a change my settings to allow image editing. On my laptop the color version of the photo actually had a little more contrast than your redo (or at least it looked that way on the screen)

Thank you!!

[tim]

You're welcome :) "Image editing ok" is in the profile thingy inside the User CP. Color space is an easy mistake to make. Yep MF will be fine, if you have a good eye - I don't trust mine as much as I trust AF.

[cinci-photo]

You're welcome :) "Image editing ok" is in the profile thingy inside the User CP. Color space is an easy mistake to make. Yep MF will be fine, if you have a good eye - I don't trust mine as much as I trust AF.


Thanks again.