24-105 - how slow h/held at 24 mm end with IS?

[DionM]

Hi all.

I have been wanting to get myself a wide angle for use at low light. I am very close to getting the Sigma 20mm 1.8 or 30mm 1.4. Basically I want something in the 20-30mm range that lets me handhold in dim light at ISO 400 or 800.

I have the 17-40 F4 and have found a few times where I have wanted to take shots but its too dark to get decent h/held shots (but have no tripod with me). Hence looking at getting a lens that is faster aperature (and I want faster than F2 - F2.8 isn't appreciably slower than F4).

Enter the 24-105 IS L. "Theoretically" this can do about 1/30th at the 24mm end. With IS on .. is it feasible to get any slower - say to around 1/10 or 1/5th and still get sharp images? Does the IS work well at wide angles?

Comments appreciated. I am only interested in that particular aspect of the 24 - 105 - I know it isn't a very fair comparison, but I am specifically looking at something to shoot at the wide angle at low shutter speeds. Note I am not trying to freeze movement either (shooting static subjects) - the use is for evening photos of cityscapes and interior of buildings etc.

[ed rader]

Hi all.

I have been wanting to get myself a wide angle for use at low light. I am very close to getting the Sigma 20mm 1.8 or 30mm 1.4. Basically I want something in the 20-30mm range that lets me handhold in dim light at ISO 400 or 800.

I have the 17-40 F4 and have found a few times where I have wanted to take shots but its too dark to get decent h/held shots (but have no tripod with me). Hence looking at getting a lens that is faster aperature (and I want faster than F2 - F2.8 isn't appreciably slower than F4).

Enter the 24-105 IS L. "Theoretically" this can do about 1/30th at the 24mm end. With IS on .. is it feasible to get any slower - say to around 1/10 or 1/5th and still get sharp images? Does the IS work well at wide angles?

Comments appreciated. I am only interested in that particular aspect of the 24 - 105 - I know it isn't a very fair comparison, but I am specifically looking at something to shoot at the wide angle at low shutter speeds. Note I am not trying to freeze movement either (shooting static subjects) - the use is for evening photos of cityscapes and interior of buildings etc.

here's one at 58mm, iso 400, 1/8s.

http://www.fototime.com/6B142527996319F/orig.jpg

and another @ 24mm, iso 800, 1/4s

http://www.fototime.com/93BA285BE9F094C/orig.jpg

ed rader

[DionM]

Thanks Ed. The 1/8th shot is great, the 1/4 I think the noise is affecting sharpness?

[ed rader]

Thanks Ed. The 1/8th shot is great, the 1/4 I think the noise is affecting sharpness?

the 1/8 was shot with the 20d and the other the 300d. the former handles noise better so you are probably right.

the house is across the street from the ocean at lover's pont in pacific grove and there was no ambient light.....except for the house lights it was pitch black out there.

i'll try the shot again with the 20d the next time i am there (soon i hope) :).

ed rader

[J Rabin]

Don't buy a larger max aperture lens over your 17-40 f/4L, unless your real goal is selective focus DoF control (creative defocus background blur).

If low light focus is the goal just buy a good Canon hotshoe flash, and, using the custom function turn off the flash firing, but leave on the flash IR focus assist beam.

The Sigma is solid wonderful lens, for wide angle selective focus, and f1.8, but the hunts and struggles in low light. Need to manual focus more than not in low light with this good lens.

I own the 24-105 f/4L IS, and have shot plenty already at ISO 1600 and 1250 (In my opinion ISO 400 or 800 is lower, but not LOW light). I can tell you this is a fabulous lens. I have NO FEAR shooting it wide open at f/4 my copy is that good.
However, shooting in an ISO 1600 f/4 situation, even with the superb USM focus motor algorithms, this fabulous new lens will hunt. After all, it is not a f/2.8 or faster, and does not activate the center focus point precision sensor on body.
The solution? Even with the 24-105 f/4L IS I now use a hot shoe flash set to fire the IR beam, but not fire the flash.
This is all just my own opinion. Just take for my opinion, not gospel.
Jack

[ccp900]

ed, did you do a USM on that japanese doll pic?

[chtgrubbs]

I'm past the half-century mark, and nowhere near as steady-holding as I use to be, but even I have no problem shooting at 1/10 or 1/8 sec. with the IS. It really is amazing!

[Lani Kai]

I can get consistently good results at 1/4s on a 30D. If I lean against a wall or something 1s is pretty easy.

[ed rader]

ed, did you do a USM on that japanese doll pic?


yes. here's a 100% untouched crop.

ed rader

http://www.fototime.com/8E303368BD12340/orig.jpg

[Tee Why]

Remember, a f1.8 lens will have a brighter viewfinder than a f4 lens in a dim place. Your 20D also focuses faster with lenses f2.8 or faster as well. Both are things to consider if you plan on doing a lot of shooting in low light settings.

[ccp900]

thanks for the pic ed, and thats the reason why you sold off your 24-105L? to get the 24-70L right? which for your case was ultra sharp (24-70)? :)