Circular Polariser 81C warm up filter

[design crusader]

Anyone have recommendations on a good polarser filter. I am doing quite a few wide angle shots of buildings in good sunlight and I want to get better blue on the skys and reduce glare. Also, it is correct that for the 10D (since it has AF) that I need to get a circular polariser?

Thanks,

DC

[Vegas Poboy]

Yes, Circular Polarizer is great to have in any camera bag to cut glare & increase colors in the sky. It's like putting a pair of shades on your lens. I presently use Hoya filters just because I like the selection @ the local camera shop. I've never used a warming filter yet just have'nt got around to it.

[horqua]

Here's another trick to get bluer skies without using a polariser, thus conserving 1.5 stops.

Use the maximum aperature available to the scene i.e f/11, 16 or 22. Generally, in scenics where you want lots of image with deep blue skies, place your camera on a tripod or stable mount and stop down as far as you can go.This will increase contrast and depth of field and give you deep blue skies with cotton ball clouds. Bracket in half stop increments. Use RAW format.

Wadda ya got to lose since you're burnin pixels instead of silver halide?

[WSpruance]

If you shoot in RAW format you do not need a warming filter. When you change the white balance in C1LE or Canons software you can achieve the same results as a warming filter at home instead of lugging around another filter.

Polarizer - yes . I use Canon's Circular Polarizer.

[dbarthel]

You sound like you need a "Moose" filter. It is a combination polorizer and warming filter. Results are very nice. See http://www.moose395.net/ to get one. I think Hoya makes it for him. I won't let you have mine :-)

[Webster]

horqua wrote:
Use the maximum aperature available to the scene i.e f/11, 16 or 22. Generally, in scenics where you want lots of image with deep blue skies, place your camera on a tripod or stable mount and stop down as far as you can go.This will increase contrast and depth of field and give you deep blue skies with cotton ball clouds. Bracket in half stop increments. Use RAW format.


Good advice. But be aware that, for any camera with a 1.6-factor sensor, diffraction starts to degrade the image somewhere around f/13. Mostly we wouldn't notice it up to f/16, but at f//22 it can make a very noticable difference in prints at 11x16 and larger.

[scottbergerphoto]

design crusader wrote:
Anyone have recommendations on a good polarser filter. I am doing quite a few wide angle shots of buildings in good sunlight and I want to get better blue on the skys and reduce glare. Also, it is correct that for the 10D (since it has AF) that I need to get a circular polariser?

Thanks,

DC

I am very happy with the B+W 77mm Circular Polarizer. These shots were done with this polarizer and the 16-35 f/2.8 L lens:
http://www.pbase.com/image/20018456.jpg


http://www.pbase.com/image/20018460.jpg


http://www.pbase.com/image/20018465.jpg