"Bigma" for outdoor kids sports?

[pprrad]

Does anyone have any comments on the autofocus speed of Sigma 50-500 F4-6.3? (use a 1D Mark IIN) Wondering if I could use it to shoot my kid's little league baseball games (all late morning & afternoon games). Was looking at Sigma 120-300 F2.8, but for about same price or a little more I could get a "bigma" AND 70-200 F2.8. Currently the lense I use 24-70 F2.8 but want more reach (not a t-con). Would then use bigma for nature shots as well and the 70-200 F2.8 for inside sports.

Any comments appreciated. Thank you.

[MazerRakhm]

I've only gotten to play with one, but since you're shooting all day games it should have plenty of light to work with and I would think the AF would be fine. The only draw back I can think of is that F2.8 would give you a shallower DOF which would help you isolate you subject, but that's all in personal preference I guess really.

[rudder34]

I have used mine for high speed motorsports and have not had any problems as long as it is a well lit subject. Mazer is right, when you get into dark clouds or darkness is when your images will not turn out that well.

[rklepper]

Not sure how well the Bigma would be for stopping action. I would be interested in this as I shoot sports all year round and softball is summer in great light.

[Jon]

You may just find it too unwieldy for kids' sports, coupled with the necessary high shutter speed to minimize camera shake (up to 1/750). If you're in the bleachers, you'll need at least 2 rows in front of you clear (for a couple of feet on either side). Elsewhere on the sidelines, you'd be able to use a monopod easily, but you also want to stay out of foul territory, since dodging with that big a lens won't be easy either. I think the 70-200 would be much better for that, and you might even want something faster for indoor sports.

[cfcRebel]

I have shot some wakeboarding event with my Bigma, noon time lighting. The HSM worked great with my 20D AI Servo. I assume it will only work better with your 1DMkIIN.
However, a tripod or monopod is recommended.

[terse22]

I shoot almost exclusively with my Bigma and 70-200 during the daylight hours. Once I can no longer get the shutter speeds I need with the Bigma (usually about 45 minutes before sundown) I switch it out for the 120-300. I have multiple 20d's and 1 is dedicated to 85 1.8, 1 to the 70-200 and 1 is switched between the Bigma and 120-300 (this camera is always on a monopod). I generally shoot outdoor sports from sun up to 10 pm and sometimes the wee hours of the morning. A Bigma and 70-200 shoud be a perfect combination for the hours and field sizes you will be shooting.:)

[pprrad]

if the 70-200 wouldn't be fast enough for indoor sport, how about a prime and say the 100-400 rather than the bigma?

[Mitcon]

I've never shot sports but I have the bigma on my camera 98% of the time. Given enough light and contrasts it's AF speed seems more than fast enough for my needs (birding/wildlife). I would think a Bigma, fast prime and 70-200 would cover you well for most of your needs. My only thought is would you really need the reach of the Bigma for what your doing. As for the 100-400, a fine/handy lens also but it's the same thing really, but if IS is helpful to you then it may fill a need.

[Tee Why]

I use it on my N to shoot high school soccer. In setting sun, you have to start increasing the ISO. If you have enough light and for baseball, I think it's fine. It's AF speed is not as fast as the 70-200L though. You have to remember to leave the focusing distance near what you are shooting otherwise if you throw it into hunting for a focus point by moving through it's focus range, that takes too long. So once again, good technique is required.

For little league baseball, I would prefer the reach and the range of the Bigma over my 70-200f2.8.
Bigma makes for really good candid portraits of players on the field. With the 70-200, you'd have to crop a lot for a tight shot.

[ScottE]

I have often used my 50-500 for shooting cross country ski and cycling races with my 20D, D60 and EOS 3. Because of the zoom range I actually prefer it over the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 on well lit days. When there is a heavy overcast I switch to the 70-200 because of the dim light. Most of the time I shoot it at ISO 400 to get fast enough shutter speed, but on bright days can back down to ISO 200. On dull days I sometimes have to use ISO 800. I try to avoid ISO 1600 because of the noise, but on a few occasions I have had to use it to get a fast enough shutter speed in failing light.