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sageone
4th of June 2006 (Sun), 08:32
Messing around with my 30D last night and 580EX...bouncing the flash off the ceiling. These shots could probably use some PP, but I figured I'd post it straight up and get suggestions in terms of what should be done. Fire away. CC welcome. They seem to me that they are a tad soft. I tried to mess around with using different focus points....these were using the far right point.

http://static.flickr.com/74/159958352_a0ab370733_o.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/70/159958362_3c7caedbb8_o.jpg

Becca
4th of June 2006 (Sun), 09:08
Very nice, Don! She's adorable!

nation
4th of June 2006 (Sun), 09:38
Cut kid and nice compositions on both. I agree the first does look a little soft, maybe due to camera shake although 1/160 should be adequate or to the girl moving around. One other thing to bear in mind is that for the 30D (20D is the same) and lenses faster than F/5.6 the centre AF point is the most accurate, all other AF points will have less accuracy than the centre one. The centre AF point also gets a boost in accuracy for lenses faster than F/2.8. In the real world, however, the focusing accuracy difference between other AF points and the centre AF point is minimal and not big enough to preclude their usage. Just something to be aware of.

sageone
4th of June 2006 (Sun), 09:40
Cut kid and nice compositions on both. I agree the first does look a little soft, maybe due to camera shake although 1/160 should be adequate or to the girl moving around. One other thing to bear in mind is that for the 30D (20D is the same) and lenses faster than F/5.6 the centre AF point is the most accurate, all other AF points will have less accuracy than the centre one. The centre AF point also gets a boost in accuracy for lenses faster than F/2.8. In the real world, however, the focusing accuracy difference between other AF points and the centre AF point is minimal and not big enough to preclude their usage. Just something to be aware of.

Ok, thanks. Great advice and tip. Wasn't aware of that.

drewmk2
4th of June 2006 (Sun), 10:13
nice to see the 1200s :)

sageone
4th of June 2006 (Sun), 10:40
nice to see the 1200s :)

I was waiting for someone to catch that. That 1200 has a brother on the other side, with a MPC (beat machine) in the middle, cross fader, etc.

tpetty
4th of June 2006 (Sun), 19:15
Cute shots Don. I have lots of problems with soft focus when I am on any single point other than the middle. PS - She's a doll!

sageone
4th of June 2006 (Sun), 21:58
Cute shots Don. I have lots of problems with soft focus when I am on any single point other than the middle. PS - She's a doll!

Thanks. Then what do you do when wanting to shoot a subject off center? Use the center focus point then recompose?

nation
5th of June 2006 (Mon), 00:06
Thanks. Then what do you do when wanting to shoot a subject off center? Use the center focus point then recompose?
Using the centre AF point and recompose is an option that will work well if you're using CFn 4-1 ( here's a discussion on it if you're not familiar with it (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46965&highlight=custom+function) . This will allow you to chose where you want to lock exposure. However, it will only have benefit for static shots. By the time you recompose there's a good chance your subject has moved.

The reason the centre AF point is deemed more accurate is because it acts like a cross-type sensor. The other AF points act as line-type sensors. This means the centre AF point detects both horizontal and vertical contrast at the same time. The other AF points only detect either horizontal or vertical contrast. Accordingly when you intend on using the other AF points to lock focus the greater the lines of contrast (eg the eyes against the whites and the skin) the better chance you'll have getting more accurate focus.

xepherys
7th of June 2006 (Wed), 17:43
The reason the centre AF point is deemed more accurate is because it acts like a cross-type sensor. The other AF points act as line-type sensors. This means the centre AF point detects both horizontal and vertical contrast at the same time.
Is this ALWAYS true, or is it true when you are using multipoint AF? In other words, if you choose single-point AF on a point other than the center, will it still be less accurate (specifically to the 350D in my question, but also in general)?

Also, Don, she's adorable. The mischevious grin in the first shot is a great setup to the smile in the second.

sageone
7th of June 2006 (Wed), 18:26
Also, Don, she's adorable. The mischevious grin in the first shot is a great setup to the smile in the second.

Thanks...she's my two year old. And is a little devil!

nation
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 00:15
Is this ALWAYS true, or is it true when you are using multipoint AF? In other words, if you choose single-point AF on a point other than the center, will it still be less accurate (specifically to the 350D in my question, but also in general)?


Yes. In multi point AF, with all contrast variations within a scene being equal, you will have a greater probability of the centre AF point locking focus. When using selective AF points the centre one will always lock focus more accurately. This, however, is only for lenses faster the f/5.6 and is the case for the 350D, 20D and 30D. The 5D has 3 and the 1D bodies have 7 cross-type sensors (above and below the centre AF point). If I remember correctly the the 5D and 1D bodies require faster maximum aperture lenses to activate the additional cross-type sensors.

AlexMa
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 03:08
I thought the black ones were 1210's

And the light still works.....................

sageone
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 07:58
I thought the black ones were 1210's

And the light still works.....................

These are 1200s...and are about 7-8 years old. They still work like they were new out of the box.

TheSteveMadden
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 09:31
Three suggestions:

First, f/1.4 is only consistently effective on sleeping children ;) the DOF at 8ft is under 3" which is pretty much hit and miss with a moving target. I would recommend closing down the 50 to f/2.8 - f/4 if you want tack sharp photos. You'll still get good background separation. Use manual exposure control indoors to control the level of ambient you want and let the flash do it's magic on the subject.

Second, it looks like you were bouncing straight up (or close to it) and causing fairly harsh raccoon shadows under the eyes and chin. Try using the pull-out catchlight panel on the 580, angling the flash at 60-75 degrees. Even better, rubber-band a 3x5 card to the back for more light thrown directly onto the face, softening the shadows. This will also give you a larger catchlight in the eyes.

Third, I've found that +2/3 FEC indoors works better on light skin as the default flash exposure leaves the face underexposed.

Very cute model, and it looks like she'll gladly help you work on your technique :) I have two boys, 3 and 5. Both are completely oblivious to my gear, making it easy to try a lot of different settings and techniques.

Sean-Mcr
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 09:49
Now i think since salt and pepper have gone of the boil, the rap world needs a new dua
And my neice Nicole knows how to bust a move on the wheels of steel and she's out of work right now, she's a good rapper to and she's won a few battles but that's got more to do with what time she goes to bed

Word!
http://i.pbase.com/o4/87/571287/1/60473987.20D583.jpg

sageone
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 10:03
Now i think since salt and pepper have gone of the boil, the rap world needs a new dua

And my neice Nicole knows how to bust a move on the wheels of steel and she's out of work right now, she's a good rapper to and she's won a few battles but that's got more to do with what time she goes to bed. Word!


Hellz yea...RUN DMC WHO?

Sean-Mcr
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 10:13
Double gum bubble MC's

sageone
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 10:20
Three suggestions:

First, f/1.4 is only consistently effective on sleeping children ;) the DOF at 8ft is under 3" which is pretty much hit and miss with a moving target. I would recommend closing down the 50 to f/2.8 - f/4 if you want tack sharp photos. You'll still get good background separation. Use manual exposure control indoors to control the level of ambient you want and let the flash do it's magic on the subject.

Second, it looks like you were bouncing straight up (or close to it) and causing fairly harsh raccoon shadows under the eyes and chin. Try using the pull-out catchlight panel on the 580, angling the flash at 60-75 degrees. Even better, rubber-band a 3x5 card to the back for more light thrown directly onto the face, softening the shadows. This will also give you a larger catchlight in the eyes.

Third, I've found that +2/3 FEC indoors works better on light skin as the default flash exposure leaves the face underexposed.

Good advice. I'll give this a whirl. Thanks!!!

sageone
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 10:21
Double gum bubble MC's

We double trouble bubble, bubble, bubble, bubblin' hot!

xepherys
8th of June 2006 (Thu), 11:08
Sean, that's priceless!