Misc Questions before I buy my D30 rig

[Kintama]

1. If you look at the rose picture I just up loaded to my Photo.net gallery (address below), can the 50mm 1.4 lens get that close to a 3" rose to fill the frame like that? (Ignore that the focus isn't right in the picture I posted... I only posted it for the purpose of finding out if the 50mm will do a macro shot like that)

2. Is there a cheap ball head I can put on a bogen that will support the D30, Grip w/batts, 70-200mm, and flash? I know they make a 3414 but it's rated at 9 lbs and from the looks of what I listed above that is about 7-7.5 lbs. so I don't want to put the camera on it and adjust it and then it drops a bit cause it's too close to the limits of that head (and more importantly I don't want the glass to crash down on to the legs)

3. How good are "close up" filters? if I put a lens on the cam that is rated at about 4.0 from photodo then put a close up filter kit with it's various layers won't that drastically degrade the image? Or is it because it's such a big lens on a little subject that it hardly matters cause of the amount of light it lets in vs the size? (I'm reaching on that last part, cause it seems people love to use those things but I never heard of them used on better glass) My budget it maxed so either I can't do macro photography if the 50mm is unable, or I spring $60 on the close up filters

4. What is a really good but inexpensive Polorizer? I've planned on buying the B+W Circ Polorizer with multicoating... seen it listed for $150 at B+H... is there some other brand that is as good and perhaps cheaper? I think I want to stick with multicoated glass because I am going that extra length on the lenses, I think I should keep the image quality up.

5. I've never used a UV filter but based on what I've read I think I could benifit from it. However I've noticed also that the biggest reason I get blue cast to my images (I call it the 70's look for the way the colors look) is because my white balance was on auto and the G1 DEFINITELY needs to be on a manual mode (at least mine does... it's terribly inconsistent) So my question is, and this is based on some net reading... is this really needed to get the blues out of long shots in the mountains or by rivers or can I get away with using photoshop (I can do it in photoshop but perhaps the glass actually does something that photoshop doesn't do that makes it a must have.)

6. Does the D30 have an IR senor that would work with the IR remote that comes with the G1? Based on feedback in another thread I did some looking into places that sell remotes and I only found wired remotes, and the wireless ones as the poster pointed out were on the hotshoe... way over kill for what I need. I rather not pay $50 for what is basically a wired switch, I'd rather spend $20 on the IR remote (nice and pocketable too) Can someone try their G1 remote on the D30 and tell me if it works? (D30 does have IR pick up for it right?)


That's it. Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for the assitance.

James

[kenthomson]

Can't answer all your questions, but here's what I know -

How good are "close up" filters?
Go for the Canon 500D. Costs more than a typical close up filter, but it's double element, very high quality. If I recall correctly, you can get something like half life-size magnification when used with the 70-200, life size when the 2x extender is added to the mix. I sold my 100mm macro after getting the 500D - one less item to carry, plus better working distance and a tripod collar with the 70-200 + 500D combination. Roses are one subject I've used it for, and I'm delighted with the quality and convenience.

I've planned on buying the B+W Circ Polorizer with multicoating
Check out Moose's Warm Polarizer, from Hoya. Adds a warming filter to the pola, helps keep away the blueness that can creep into polarized images.

Does the D30 have an IR senor that would work with the IR remote that comes with the G1
No. It does use the same battery, and you can also use all your EX flash stuff on both cameras. They make a great double act

[Kintama]

Thanks for the tip on the 500D. I looked it up at B&H and it's $83 & $134 (58mm, 77mm) so that fits in my budget

What are the advantages or disadvantages of getting the 500D for the 50mm vs the 70-200mm lens? the 50mm is only $80 so naturally I gravitate towards that and since the lens is so much faster.

So with the 500D on the end of the Sigma 70-200 will I be able to stand back from the subject instead of getting right up on it like I have to with my G1 in macro mode?

What is the difference between "close-up filter" and "macro" anyway?

I'm concerned about the DOF.... does it change the rating of the len's DOF ...like does it become half of it's normal amount or something?

Pardon me if the questions are lame, I'm about as newbie to SLR world as it gets. :-)

James

[kenthomson]

What are the advantages or disadvantages of getting the 500D for the 50mm vs the 70-200mm lens?
You get quite a bit more working distance with the 70-200+CU lens versus the 50 f1.4+CU lens, plus the advantage of the triopd collar (you can switch between vertical and horizontal compositions of the subject without having to move the tripod). Your $80 for the 58mm CU lens will be wasted; the $134 for the 77mm will be an investment, and you can always use it on the 50mm with a step ring.

The 1.4 aperture of the 50mm is of no real advantage - you will have so little depth of field in a close up at f1.4.

What is the difference between "close-up filter" and "macro" anyway
the term "macro" is generally used for closeup photography; a close up filter is one method of doing macro photography (the others being a dedicated macro lens, extension tubes or bellows).


regards, Ken

[Roger_Cavanagh]

James,

WRT to the close-up filters, note that there is a 500 _and_ a 500D close-up. The 500D is much superior optically and is much more expensive (and much heavier 5.1oz to 1.5oz :( ).I just got one (special order from Jessops in the UK - took nearly 3 months :eyes ), but I paid the equivalent of around USD250. Even taking into account rip-off UK prices, USD134 sounds a bit cheap. It may be the price for the 500.

Close-up filters just screw onto the front of the lens like any ordinary filter. I bought mine for use with my 100-400L. The longer is the focal length, the greater is the magnification. At 400mm, the 500D gives magnification up to 0.91.

The "500" is actually the max focusing distance when the lens is focused at infinity, i.e., 500mm. DOF becomes very small. I haven't had the filter long enough to post any images on my own sites. There are some examples here:

http://gaslab.ucsd.edu/closerlook/

Macro lens have the ability to do close-up built into the lens. I don't have any, so I can't speak from experience. TMacro lenses seem to have limited focal lengths; Canon have to 50 and 100.

Another option is to use extension tubes. These are just hollow plastic/metal tubes that fit between the camera and the lens. They come in sets of three with different lengths. Mine are 13mm, 21mm and 31mm. You can use one or any combination. Magnification is the ratio of focal length of lens and length of extension. So a 50mm ext tube on a 50mm lens gives 1:1 magnification, but you have to get very, very cose to the subject. You can use them on any lens. If you put them on longer lenses, you can get a few feet away from the subject. Here are a few examples of mine with the 100-400 and ext tubes:

http://www.rogercavanagh.com/up_close/index.htm

Regards,

[Kintama]

Thanks for the input guys. Sounds like the 77mm is the one to go for. I do want space between the subject and the lens. Nice pics at the links provided.

As far as 500D being cheap... I went back to B&H to check and they don't have a 500 regular... only 500D and the Canon comments imply that it's a **** hot lens. So sounds like the same one you are talking about. Just type "500D" into the search field and you'll see it.

BTW, I never found anything regarding a "Moose" and "Hoya" search there. LOL. So this UV filter apparently keeps Canadian mammals and stray reflected rays out? this is great cause that last moose that got to the CCD really messed up my G1. :-)


James

[kenthomson]

I never found anything regarding a "Moose" and "Hoya" search there.

Try using B&H's reference # in the search-

HOWCP77

or the mfr ref

B77CIRPLGB

[Kintama]

Thanks for that. I've added it to my shopping list.

Anyone have any feedback on cheap but good ball head? I never did hear and responses that part.

James