What's the lowdown on the Promaster brand?

[col4bin]

specifically regarding filters...UV/Haze and CP's. Is it worth the extra $$ for a B&W? The easiest way to test would be to have access to both and take some test pictures but that is not an option.

[liza]

Yes, it's worth the extra money. I got burned buying a Promaster brand filter one time. It was absolutely worthless and a total waste of $50.

[col4bin]

Thanks Liza. I have read many of your posts and respect your opinion. I should go with the multi coated, right? I think the 77mm are arround $75 at B&H. Does that sound about right?

[liza]

Thanks. Yes, the multi-coated would be better, and the price sound about right.

[claudermilk]

Another option is to go through www.maxsaver.net, I found out about him on FM & got my B+W 77mm MRC UV for about $46.

[Bob_A]

Thanks Liza. I have read many of your posts and respect your opinion. I should go with the multi coated, right? I think the 77mm are arround $75 at B&H. Does that sound about right?

Hi Frank,

A 77mm B+W MRC circular polarizing filter is $144.95 at B&H Photo. Their UV/Haze filter is $79.95 if you really think you need one to protect your lens.

[liza]

Another option is to go through www.maxsaver.net (http://www.maxsaver.net), I found out about him on FM & got my B+W 77mm MRC UV for about $46.

That's a great link! Thanks for sharing.

[col4bin]

Hi Frank,

A 77mm B+W MRC circular polarizing filter is $144.95 at B&H Photo. Their UV/Haze filter is $79.95 if you really think you need one to protect your lens.

I am very anal about my gear and afraid of getting scratches on the glass. Maybe I am just being too over protective? Most photographers I have spoken to use the filters for protection. Is my population of photograhpers not representative? Thanks in advance.

[col4bin]

Another option is to go through www.maxsaver.net (http://www.maxsaver.net), I found out about him on FM & got my B+W 77mm MRC UV for about $46.

How safe is it ordering from Hong Kong? Is everything first quality and authentic? I am always looking to save a buck but when I see such cheap prices it makes me wonder.

[jj1987]

I am very anal about my gear and afraid of getting scratches on the glass. Maybe I am just being too over protective? Most photographers I have spoken to use the filters for protection. Is my population of photograhpers not representative? Thanks in advance.
Just as a FYI, the front element is the cheapest part of a lens to get repaired. It's not CHEAP persay, but the cheapEST part. I would spend the $5 a month on camera insurance, and save the $100 that you would have spent on a filter. First of all, no matter what quality the filter is, theres no way to ever know if it would have been better without a filter. Do you want to leave yourself wondering? Second, a lens hood protects from small drops. Also, many times if you drop the lens enough to break the lens hood and the filter, the AF is screwed too.

So yeah, insurance and no UV for me.


Also, Hoya made the promaster filters for promaster in 2005. If you can find some that are old, I would get them. Be VERY careful getting this years, and I have no idea who's making them. Canon makes a polarizer that I would get directly from them, assuming the price is comparable.

[col4bin]

Thanks for the info. Maybe I will invest in one good UV filter for when I am shooting in adverse conditions (rain, near the ocean) and get a good B&W CP.

[Bob_A]

I am very anal about my gear and afraid of getting scratches on the glass. Maybe I am just being too over protective? Most photographers I have spoken to use the filters for protection. Is my population of photograhpers not representative? Thanks in advance.

I stopped using a UV filter for protection and use a hood, which I feel protects the lens just as well. It may be just my imagination :) but I believe that my 20D autofocus also works better without a filter. However, if I were shooting with some salt water spray or blowing sand I'd use a filter along with the hood.

[col4bin]

Since I live near the ocean and I often take photos along the coast, maybe I will just pick up one good B&W MRC UV Haze for those situations.

Anyone know if the Tokina 12-24 calls for a slim CP?

[Bob_A]

I'd use a slim filter for anything wider than 24mm for a 1.6 crop camera, so yes, I'd use a "slim" filter for the Tokina 12-24. The problem with the slim filter is that your standard lens cap won't work because there aren't any front treads, so you need to use a slip-on cap.

I don't see any vignetting whatsoever with my 24-70 on my 20D, so I know that at 24mm on a 1.6 crop camera is fine and a slim filter isn't necessary (but I may need one when I switch to full frame).