*Top tips thread*

[iwatkins]

______________________________________________
Post your Best tips for EOS Camera's here.
EDIT
Thread has been "cleaned" of non related posts (including my own)
Please post only your tips :) and do not reply to others unless you are contributing additional info to the subject
Thanks :wink:
CDS
______________________________________________

Not got a remote cable release and you do long exposures with a tripod ?

Use Custom Functions to lockup the mirror and set the drive from single shot/mutil shot to self timer. If mirror lockup is enabled the self timer is changed from 10 seconds to 2 seconds. This gives time for the tripod to stop shaking after you have pushed the shutter release down and you should get shake free long exposures. (Well, barring any wind shake etc.)

Cheers

Ian

[defordphoto]

I have the cable release but that's a great tip!! Would be nice to see this subject stickied to the top, but not sure if this version is capable.

Anyway, the tip of the day is in another thread re: C.Fn-02 which when set to 1 disables the shutter without a CF card in, which is covered in the manual on page 146.

The default is "0" which allows you to shoot without a CF card installed. The member in the thread lost a client when this very embarrassing faux pas happened.

[Roger_Cavanagh]

I've already got some advice and tips here:

http://www.pixelpixel.org/helpinfo/05_whatnow.htm
http://www.pixelpixel.org/helpinfo/11_goodhabits.htm

But I'm not to proud to admit, I'll pinch any new (and good) ideas that are posted here. :)

Regards,

[MediaMagic]

Okay, here are a couple that work for me. I'm sure many others do similar things.

I use an OpTech strap to carry the camera around, so what to do with the canon strap that came with the camera?

I use it as a quick carry strap for my tripod. It's very convenient to throw the strap over a shoulder and move to a new position rapidly without shortening the legs or worrying about "holding" it while you're carrying the rest of your gear. Plus, it keeps that little eyepiece cover handy if you want to use it.

http://images.fotopic.net/?id=1469925&outx=600&noresize=1&nostamp=1



Secondly, on my flash bracket, I secure the flash cable with those little velcro cable fasteners used mostly for computer or instrument cables. You can attach these to the bracket and just leave them there so they're always handy when you need them. I normally use two black ones, but for this shot, I threw a green one on there so it'll show up in the photo. These look professional and do the job of keeping the cable out of the way. Now, if I could only remember to wipe off that LCD screen.. bleck.

http://images.fotopic.net/?id=1469926&outx=600&noresize=1&nostamp=1


Fire away guys, I'm sure there's alot better tips than these running around.. I've love to hear them.

David

[MediaMagic]

I think it's a fantastic idea to have the tips thread. Post anything you guys find helpful.. amateur, pro, doesn't matter. Everybody has *something* to share. (plus wanted to bump this so it'll stay active)


Here's another one... read every single thread/post on this forum. I've picked up on many ideas by reading threads that at first glance (at the title) wouldn't have appeared to contain anything I'd need to read. The pros (and skilled amateurs) on here seem to have a tendency to make little side comments during discussions that can be invaluable tidbits of information for those of us trying to learn and improve. Read every single word. You can't glean these if you don't see them.

David

[Belmondo]

MediaMagic wrote:The pros (and skilled amateurs) on here seem to have a tendency to make little side comments during discussions that can be invaluable tidbits of information for those of us trying to learn and improve.

Let me add my heartiest endorsement to that sentiment. I'm definitely not the sharpest pencil in the box, but I've learned so very much from this group, it's hard to estimate where I'd be without all these folks willing to share their expertise in such an unselfish manner. As nearly as I can tell, their only compensation is the occasional 'attaboy.' I'd also be remiss if I didn't thank Pekka for providing the glue that holds all this together.

[Rob Larsen]

A tip I've been trying to live by (in addition to many of the above) is ALWAYS turn the self-timer off immediately after using it. I use it so seldom that I rarely remember to check the drive mode prior to shooting. That 10 second timer is painfully long to wait through and usually seems to bite during a spontainious or fleeting moment.

[CyberDyneSystems]

Tape a little reminder on the top or back of your camera,.

"Check ISO!"

Too often I pick up my camera and shoot outdoors in strong afternoon light while the ISO is still set to 800 or even 1600 form an evenings shooting in a dark theatre!

[DaveG]

iwatkins wrote:
Might be good to have a top tips thread here for 10D owners. I'll start the ball rolling....

Not got a remote cable release and you do long exposures with a tripod ?

Use Custom Functions to lockup the mirror and set the drive from single shot/mutil shot to self timer. If mirror lockup is enabled the self timer is changed from 10 seconds to 2 seconds. This gives time for the tripod to stop shaking after you have pushed the shutter release down and you should get shake free long exposures. (Well, barring any wind shake etc.)

Cheers

Ian

My suggestions:

Change the custom function CF2 so that it will not allow images to be made without a CF card in place. Why it defaults the other way is beyond my comprehension!

Enable back focus with the CF4. It's not so self evident but you want 1:AE lock/AF.
Then you focus the camera with the middle button by your right thumb. You can let the
button go and the focus will lock if you want to recompose. You also can keep your
finger (with some pressure) on the shutter button without fear of the autofocus hunting.

Enable the ISO expansion. You can argue about how bad it is but at least it's there if you
need it in a pinch.

I've changed my Auto power off to 15 minutes. I just got tired of the camera going to
sleep at inopportune moments.

Turn Auto rotate to On. This has saved HOURS of computer time.

The camera clock is a 24 hour kind. Be careful that you set your 7:00 PM as 19:00 and
not 7:00.

If you need to shoot static subjects like presentation shots on a dimly lit stage, make sure
that you have chosen One Shot and the full metering pattern. Then with a 550 flash (and
probably the 420 and the built in flash) the camera will AF in total darkness. It won't if
you have AI Servo or AI Focus selected.

Put soft self adhesive Velcro on the sides & tops of your flashes. Then you can make
fill/flag cards. I prefer white corrugated plastic for the fill cards since this material is so
light. An old election poster was my source of this material for years. You then attach
the rough self adhesive Velcro to the card and you'll have fill cards that easily Velcro on
and off.

I also have black cards that I can put on the sides of off-camera flashes that function a
flag to prevent flare. In a recent shoot I used flags on both sides of the 420 flash. The
closest one to the camera prevented flare and the one on the other side of the flash prevented the flash
from spilling onto the background.

[rdenney]

iwatkins wrote:
Might be good to have a top tips thread here for 10D owners. I'll start the ball rolling....



Keep your sensor clean. It's the one flaw you won't see either on the ground glass or in the LCD preview. I took a bunch of shots in Seattle with a great big glob of gook on my sensor, and that has cost me hours in Photoshop trying to remove it.

For cleaning the sensor, I don't use the "sensor cleaning" command, because it only works on a full battery or on the AC cord. I just put the camera on Manual, with the shutter speed on B, and make damn sure that I don't take my finger off the button while cleaning. Or, you can also use the locking cable release.

Use an air syringe first to blow away dust. That solves most of the problems right away.

Next tip: Own two batteries, and keep them both charged and available at all times. I find the batteries reach their end at unexpected times.

Rick "whose other tips were covered by others" Denney

[w10d]

Hi all,
I’ve just joined this forum after searching for info on the 10D before buying one (last week). It’s my first AF SLR in almost 10 years - I’ve only shot on medium format since then. As such I thought I’d try some tips by looking at the 10D from ‘the other side’. I’m sure they won’t fit everyone, but hope someone finds it interesting :-)

The 10D makes an excellent manual camera: It’s easy to forget that and get carried away with all the modes and functions - until the camera is controlling your photography. Don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of situations where the auto functions are more than helpful, and can get you a shot you’d otherwise miss (sport for example). But often the more you have to engage your brain before taking a shot, the better the shot will be... Think of the great photography of the 20th century and remember that most of it was taken with manual cameras.

Some suggestions:

1) Try the custom function 4-1, you now tell the camera when to focus, separate from your use of the shutter. Never again will the camera try to re-focus as you shoot - just because you eased off on the shutter release. Its a bit like an always on focus lock (If you’ve grown up on AF SLRs this system may take a lot of getting used to). NB You may want to re-allocate the FE function to the button to the left of this one.

2) Avoid the settings outside the ‘creative’ modes - they tend to change settings for AF/metering/Flash/etc leaving you not knowing what the camera is doing. Instead the ‘P’ setting is fine for full auto when needed.

3) Give full manual a go - you can dial in exposure adjustments as needed, and you'll get used to constantly thinking about the settings on your camera and what they are doing to your images.

4) I’m trying to develop the habit of pressing the shutter release instinctively, the moment I want to use the camera, i.e. I’m pressing it as I raise the camera to my eye. The wake up time is mercifully short, but annoying if you’re already looking in the viewfinder when you realise your camera is fast asleep!

5) Turn on the histogram in the image review - the more you get used to looking at them, the more they will tell you.

6) Keep the tips comong!

[MediaMagic]

Thanks for all the great posts coming in to this thread!


Hand holding in lower light conditions.

This one will probably be more for the newer photographers than for the experienced. We all tend to develop our own little ways to get the most out of our shots. Here's something that works well for me when I'm trying to hand hold the camera for lower light shots.

First off, your stance should be well balanced, with your wrist and forearm directly under the lens and your elbow tucked into your body so that you have a very firm support directly under the lens.

I use my left eye so that I can flatten the camera firmly against my left cheek with my left hand. This force coming back into my face with the wrist/forearm directly under the lens makes a very stable platform. If you use an extended eyepiece, you'll put your eye out with this method. This picture shows how the camera is flattened into my cheek.

http://images.fotopic.net/?id=1503884&outx=600&noresize=1&nostamp=1


Next, I use either a partial or total weaving of my fingers so that my hands work as one unit together. Now, with your fingers weaved like this, press your fingers gently but firmly into the camera. Not so tightly that you are breaking your fingers, but just enough to apply good pressure with your fingers. This adds another element of stability for getting a lower light shot.

Partial "weave"
http://images.fotopic.net/?id=1503882&outx=600&noresize=1&nostamp=1

Full "weave"
http://images.fotopic.net/?id=1503883&outx=600&noresize=1&nostamp=1


This holding methods works well for me with all my lenses, even the 100-400 zoomed out near 400mm. I'll change to that "weave" grip anytime I need a little extra steadiness. All the elements of the grip are working together to create stabilizing forces that really is pretty darn steady.

I can't correct that nasty looking model though.. some things are just beyond the scope of modern technology!

Anyone else have any cool grip/holding techniques you've found that work for you?


David

[cowman345]

Current advice I'm constantly giving myself:

If you paid 250 bucks for a flash meter, use the darn thing.

Get in the habit of reading histograms... nothing is more annoying than having to adjust exposure during RAW conversion.

Watch the backgrounds, they can work for or against your subject, DOF button is a powerful tool.

Check the ISO setting whenever light conditions change and when you first start a shooting session.

Check the flash exposure settings before shooting (great article on understanding fill flash exposure, specifically for the 10D in September issue of Popular Photography & Imaging).

-dave-

[rdenney]

cowman345 wrote:
Current advice I'm constantly giving myself:

If you paid 250 bucks for a flash meter, use the darn thing.



Be careful using a flash meter with a Canon EX flash in E-TTL mode. It uses a pre-flash to measure the scene, and this pre-flash will trigger your flash meter.

I was not yet confident of the 550 flash when taking pictures of a conference booth and I tried to confirm it by checking it against my Sekonic L-718. Fortunately, it was early in the conference and the time required to track down Canon Professional Support so they could tell me to quite being so damn professional and just trust the flash didn't force me to miss the opportunity.

Rick "every thankful for the camera store dude who passed that secret phone number to him" Denney

[Longwatcher]

Related to ISO (I also still do this)
Before putting Camera away for the day, check to make sure everything has been returned to default settings.

For my 10D:
- Put in cleared CF card
- Format to camera
- RAW mode
- ISO to 100
- Review mode to on, 2 secs with info.
- Av to f8
- Tv to 1/125
- Manual 1/125 f8
- Put camera in "P" mode
- Turn it off.
- Make sure either 28-70L or 28-135 IS is on 10D
- Put cameras in case.

D60 slightly different as I usually keep it with 50/1.4 at in manual mode with f1.4 shutter at 1/125, ISO400 when travelling with both together (otherwise it stays in the same mode as 10D)

This way I can grab a camera and take a picture with some chance of getting it right on the first try in a once-in-a-lifetime hurry. If daylight I grab 10D, if night I grab D60. [Why yes, the D60 has worse autofocus in low light, but since it will be dark out, even the 10D AF won't work and I have to manually focus anyway, if I have time for the flash, I can grab the 10D, correct lens, change the settings and do it right]

Note: I don't always recharge the batteries each time, but I keep an unused set ready and recharge at least once every two weeks whether I use or not (or at least that is the longest I have gone without shooting ;-)

Just my habit.

other potential tip: put your name and if possible contact information on everything, in a manner it can be removed if you resell, but not so it can fall off. Etching the name in won't help if taken by a thief, but having name and contact number, might get it back if lost or accidently taken. I also mark import or US so I can remember where I send the darn things for repair. So far only my 28-135 IS has needed it.

My last tip would be, encourage all models to have an escort for their protection - free labor to hold reflectors on location ;-)

[WSpruance]

I have been doing a lot of sharpen testing on the 10D by removing the UV or any other filters from the front of the lens. Most of the results favor removing the filter and replacing it with a hood. In testing this procedure it requires that you remove the filter and screw in the hood.

My tip is - when putting the filter back on or when changing filters - turn the filter backwards until you either hear it click or feel it drop down on the lens, Then tighten the filter on in the proper direction. This may seem obvious but it works a lot quicker than turning and turning and scoring the lens threads.

NOTE: this only applies to filters only - not lenses.

[RichardtheSane]

Get a spirit level that fits in your hotshoe (Under £10 from jessops, UK).
If your tripod has one already, shoot with your tripod.
It can save quite a bit of photoshop time, and a shoe fit one can even help when you hand hold, as you can move back from the viewfinder a tad to check you are level.

I think just about every thing else I can think of has been covered.

[midmadn]

If you want the best color rendition / accuracy - do use the custom white balance setting with a white card.

I originally thought the Auto WB setting worked pretty well on the 10D. I was amazed by the difference when I first tried the custom setting.

I try to always set a custom white balance now.

Procedure -

1. Take your white card out, (don't use the gray side).

2. Turn autofocus off if the lens you have on the camera can't focus really close, (as close as you can reach out in front of the lense). It doesn't necessarily need to be in focus for the shot of the white card. It's just that if auto focus is activated, it won't let you snap the pic of the white card unless it can confirm focus.

3. Hold the white card in front of the lens, (app. 8 inches to a foot) at a slight angle, (1/3) to the light source in both the horizontal and vertical axis. Approximate should be good enough.

4. Shoot a picture of the white card.

5. Turn your auto focus back on so you don't forget it.

6. Go into the menu and select Custom White Balance. The camera will automatically pull up the last shot taken, it will take a second or two. Push the center button in the large dial to select the shot.

7. Now you must set the white balance setting to the Custom setting as well. It's the second icon down in the right row on the top of the 10D, (right under the K or Kelvin setting). If your in auto white balance, press the wb button and turn the large dial two clicks to the left.

You can now shoot pics that will match what you see with your eyes much more closely. Try it, I think you'll like it.

NOTE: Remember to either reset your white balance to auto or a preset or to shoot a new shot of the white card if the lighting changes.

[Longwatcher]

MediaMagic wrote:


Excellent tips there, Tim, all of them. You did raise my curiosity here though. I thought everything went to Irvine for repair on the west coast. Where DOES one send an import for service/repair? I'm lucky that I've never needed service for any canon product, but best to be prepared.

Almost all of my "grey market" import equipment have Mack warranties and I have to send them back to who I bought them from or to Mack for repair. In theory I have been told Canon will still take them anyway, but I like having 3 years of coverage versus 1 year. Even with the warranty they usually cost less then US version, plus I get the 3 year coverage. Have not had to turn any of them in yet to see if the Mack warrenty is worth it or not, but I try to limit those items I get "grey market" to those I can live without for awhile if necessary (like my second 550EX and my 70-200 IS). Otherwise I pay the extra cost for US so I can get faster repair times.

For Trivia: I bought one US and one import 550EX from BH at the same time and I actually like the import one slightly better as it seems to be better on batteries then the US version. There should be no difference, but there seems to be. No matter which is Master and which is slave, I always have to change the batteries out on the US one first (assuming I started with fresh batteries in both). Usually about 30-40 shots earlier, although it does seem to go even faster in the master slot.

Other Trivia: with the exception of my import 550EX and my two newest lenses, all of my warrenties are starting to run out so I will have to start paying for repairs in the future. I dread the thought as I am hard on lenses when using them (they are stored with care).

[MarkH]

Here's what I can think of, some from what I always do, some from what I wish I had done:

Set the auto power down to 30 minutes - that way the camera will never power down, unless you forget to turn it off when you put the camera in the bag. When you take the camera out of the bag turn it on and put the strap around your neck. Whenever my camera is out of its bag it is ready to shoot. (I always do this)

As soon as you have the camera on and ready to shoot, if you don't need to shoot right away, spend a few seconds looking at all settings. Check mode dial, I usually set it to P or Av or Tv or M and usually want it on the right one for what I am doing. Chech drive mode, ISO, Focus mode etc. (This is good advice and one day I plan to use it!)

If shooting from a tripod without a remote release set mirror lockup and self timer for the 2 second delayed shooting. More importantly - when you are finished and take the camera off the tripod, set the mirror lockup back to disabled and drive back to 0ne-shot or continuous, BEFORE putting the camera away. (this will save you anxiously worrying about why the camera wont shoot a couple of days later, not that I have ever done that of course!).

When you get home transfer all images from all cards to your PC and format the cards. Charge all batteries. Put a card and a battery back into the camera and put the camera back in its bag. Put all other cards and batteries back into the camera bag. If you grab your camera bag and go shooting its good if everything you need is actually in the bag and ready to use. (I always do this and it does make life easy)

2 Batteries is the minimum requirement. (I have 2 Canons and there are 2 Power-2000 ones on order)

2 CF cards is the minimum requirement. (I have 2 512s)

If you don't own a wide enough lens for the landscape you are looking at, set the mode to M and set your aperture and shutter speed and take a series of shots panning and make sure there is some overlap between each shot. You can stitch together a panorama later. (I want a 70-200IS first then after that I'll consider getting a 17-40L)

If you drive to places to shoot, consider a charger that can use 12V, it couldn't hurt to put that in the car (I have 2 on order). If you have 2 fully charged batteries you probably wont need to recharge, but Murphy's law can be a bitch sometimes.

RAM is cheap, your computer should have at least 512MB if running WinXP, I find 1GB RAM is nice. Remember that photoshop will open the 2048 x 3072 JPGs into an 18MB file (worse if RAW -> 16bit) per picture. (sometimes I have quite a few pictures open in photoshop at the same time)

Backup those image files! HDDs can crash! (if the files are too big and you don't own a DVD-Writer or anything else suitable, I'm sure your files will be fine, HDDs never fail for people that have important files that they haven't backed up, it just couldn't happen, could it?)

That's all I can think of right now, I hope some of it is helpful to some of you.

[oops]

Are you covered?

I am a homeowner and the Farmer's Dude said, "No problem up to about 10k since we talked. We DID talk, didn't we?". Don't trust this. You pay the premium, you make the rules.

One: Verify your coverage for: Theft, Loss, Fell off the tripod, I was too drunk to remember, and Other Acts of God. (He gets blamed with all of our stupid problems but Insurance Companies just LOVE his name!) You get the picture.

Two: Document. If you don't have receipts; it didn't happen.

Three: Photograph! We are, after all, the photo folks. Keep a cd with photos of all your gear in a safe place. Your exif will prove camera model, lens type, date, etc., etc.

Four: Renter? There is special coverage for you but it is not automatic in many cases as it is for homeowners. It is, however, very affordable.

Moral: See where you stand. Stuff happens to the nicest people, and you are the nicest I know!


ALSO: Put one of those diode lights that cost $1.50 or so and deliver 500 hours of light on your camera strap for the LCD on late nights, like Haloween.

They also help when you need to run into the bush for a quick pee stop, and let you see what the hell you stumbled over. :)

Chris.

[leony]

Pack beyound your camera gear. As obvious as it sounds, if you're shooting on location, your camera bag will most likely be the only bag you take with you, so make sure you pack it right.

My camera bag contains (besides the obvious camera gear):

* Pocket knife / multi-tool
* Small two AA batteries flash light
* chargers for canon BP-511 and NiMH AA
* small first aid kit (aspirin, tylenol, band aid, etc.)
* rain poncho (they're small and invaluable when you need one)
* Power bar (2) and a can of Red Bull (1)
* a pack of PEC-PADS
* small can of compressed air (not really air, but you all know what I mean)
* a small roll of gaffer tape

I shoot mostly outside, and this stuff has saved my behind more than once. Well worth the extra weight.

[IndyJeff]

I have a couple of tips to contribute here.

1. Always have a backup everything if possible. One night before the Indy 500 I went with another photographer to get film and he was also in need of a battery. At the store there were two batteries for our similar cameras, (10S). He ended up getting both of them. I said my battery was fine and I had a back up anyway. The next day it is 11 am and the parade laps are coming around. Guess what? Yep my battery ran out. No problem tho, I get in the bag and find....no battery. Fortunately my buddy had both of the ones he bought the night before. I was saved. I had used my backup battery earlier in the month and just plain forgot about using it.
Since going digital and having rechargeable batteries a similar situation happened. I went to Best Buys and bought a cheap back up battery. Charged it up and the next day at the track the Canon battery started to go. Inserted the cheap battery and it was dead in about 30 minutes and 10 shots into it. That battery was defective. I returned it and the next one worked fine. Now just in case, I have my Canon battery plus 2 cheap backups.

2. If you are ever contacted by a high school photography club, by all means go and talk to the kids. They love having someone come in who is "in the business". Just don't make a mistake like I did. One kid asked about the weight of my camera along with my Canon 100-200 lense. I said it wasn't too bad but after all day at the track it did get a little heavy. So I thought about passing around the camera with lense attached. Much to my horror about the 3rd person to look at it put it up to her eye and began twisting the barrel. It is an AF lense and you aren't supposed to twist it. Well it did damage the lense. Now it will only focus at 100.
I didn't make a big deal out of it because I should have warned them not to twist it. But as the Canon tech at the 500 told me in May after he worked on it for about an hour, "nice paper weight".

Now I have 3 batteries, two telephoto lenses, a back up film camera just in case. 3 cf cards, 2 sharpies, 2 pens, 2 rolls of film, a cooler with at least 3 bottles of frozen water and a couple of beers for the end of the day. After the season is over I let my son shoot the film up.

3. On your first frame, whether film or digital, take a picture of a 3x5 card with your name, address and phone number on it. Just in case you drop one and somebody honest finds it. I also have my name and phone number on the outside of the cf card. While at Kentucky Speedway this summer, I found a 256 cf card laying on the ground. I didn't want to just turn it in for a track photo guy to keep it so I kept an ear out for anyone who lost one. Sure enough on race day in the photographers meeting room while eating my lunch, I over heard a guy talking about how he lost a cf card the day before in the pits. I went up and asked what kind of cf card it was, he said it was a Lexar 256 and he had just bought it on Friday. I pulled it out of my vest and he was so damn happy. He was doing contract work for one of the racing teams and it had a ton of pit action pics on it. It would have been a lot easier if he had his name on it or in the first frame.

[boBquincy]

I didn't see this tip yet, so...

I cut a piece of post-it and stick it to the bottom of my CF card cases to make an 'up' and 'down' side.
If the card is face up, it is empty. Face down, it's full.

boB

[TeraGram93013]

If you have small children at home always, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put your camera bag up where they can't reach it.

Picked up my daughter from pre-school on Tuesday. She was famished. Dropped my bag & purse at the door, sat her down, made lunch. Played. Watched Leap videos. I had to go potty.

I am not the kind of woman that spends an hour in front of the mirror anytime I pass one. I went in, did my business, washed my hands and went back downstairs.

There was my beautiful, inquisitive, very fast child with my 10D on her neck, every other lens out of the bag and de-capped strewn about the living room and my 550 EX on top of the dog (still can't figure that one out... she's a big dog, though if it helps your mind's eye... Great Dane/Yellow Lab mix).

"Mommy! I'm taking pictures!!!"

the shakes started

the shallow breathing started

I'm not sure but I think I felt a pain in my left shoulder and my liver turned upside down at the same time.

Nothing was broken, but every lens had a nice greasy three-year-old's finger print or two on both ends.

I spent at least 30 minutes cleaning and inspecting, all because I was too rushed and neglected to put up my bag where she couldn't reach it.

I was very lucky. Nothing was broken nor scratched. It could have been much worse.

- T.

ps: the child is still alive and intensely interested in photography.

[Jesper]

There are already so many tips here, I didn't read them all, so maybe I'm repeating things, but.....:

1. If you have a 10D (and probably it works on the 300D / Digital Rebel as well), set preview to "On (Info)", so that after you've shot, the camera shows the image as well as the histogram on the LCD. That way, you can quickly have a look at the histogram to check exposure. Remember that the photo displayed on the LCD itself does not show exposure, color and sharpness very accurately.

2. The Lenses section of the Canon Camera Museum (http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/index.html) has depth-of-field tables for most of the lenses. On the info page of a lens, there is a link "Depth-of-Field Data" in the lower right corner. These can be very handy if you want to estimate what will be sharp. I've printed the tables for my lenses and put the prints in my camera bag.

[iwatkins]

1. If you have a 10D (and probably it works on the 300D / Digital Rebel as well), set preview to "On (Info)", so that after you've shot, the camera shows the image as well as the histogram on the LCD. That way, you can quickly have a look at the histogram to check exposure. Remember that the photo displayed on the LCD itself does not show exposure, color and sharpness very accurately.

...as an add on to this, if you set the preview time to more than a few seconds, you have time to do all the above and if the image is trash you have time (before the preview/info disappears) to press the Delete button and confirm to delete it. Can save some time later in processing/downloading stuff you know you are going to delete.

Cheers

Ian

[fastcat]

Before putting Camera away for the day, check to make sure everything has been returned to default settings.

For my 10D:
- Put in cleared CF card
- Format to camera
- RAW mode
- ISO to 100
- Review mode to on, 2 secs with info.
- Av to f8
- Tv to 1/125
- Manual 1/125 f8
- Put camera in "P" mode
- Turn it off.
- Make sure either 28-70L or 28-135 IS is on 10D
- Put cameras in case.

Your list struck such a responsive chord, I tried to recall all of the reasons for the "aw sh--" :( I've uttered the next day for not having followed a similar procedure with my 300D. This forced me to add a few items to your list after "Put camera in "P" mode":

- Drive in Single Shot mode
- Focus point in center
- Exposure bracketing to "0"
- White balance to Auto
- (Turn it off.)
- Put fresh battery in
- Set all lenses on AF

Thank you for stimulating this thought process. I have been bitten too many times in the past for not following a check list.
fc

[scsmith10D]

When using a rental lens or someone else's lens, make sure the AF is on. I took a series of three irreplaceable photos for my church using a rented 14 mm 2.8L. I didn't see any focus squares lighting up, but I figured that the cam would not fire unless it had a focus lock. Since I wear progressive bifocals, I'm not worried when things aren't tack-sharp to my eyes.

Later, on the PC screen, could not figure out why the pics were so soft (out of focus.) I knew I was using a low shutter speed, but I nearly collapsed when I saw that the lens was set to MF and had been for several dozen shots. Luckily, the great DOF of the lens saved many shots.

[nosquare2003]

Director of Technical Information of Canon, Chuck Westfall in another forum provide a tip in reply to ETTL problem in another forum "Rob Galbraith":

http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=137317&page=&view=&sb=5&o =&fpart=2&vc=1

[Canuck]

A growing list of vendors we do not reccommend based on experiences:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26567

Likewise, a list of vendors we can reccommend based on experiences:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26568

Please add your own experiences :)

[SnJPhoto]

I personally can't imagine not having some handy. I do a few wraps around each leg of my tripods and monopod. Makes for a better hand hold and doesn't feel cold like bare aluminum does in cool climates. And to make those really slippery/smooth lens hoods easier to deal with a run a ban adound the mount end to get a better grip. Best thing about this, no residue when you go to take it off should you ever want to sell or trade your gear in.

Scott

[Liembo]

(While mostly 300D-related, there are a lot that apply to EOS cameras
in general)

I've been trying to glean as many tips and tricks from this and other forums and the web and compile them into one place. Its easier than searching to endless threads here, I hope someone finds it useful.

http://www.bahneman.com/liem/photos/tricks/digital-rebel-tricks.html

I'll update it as often as I can for new tips and accuracy. Your Mileage May Vary.

[slejhamer]

Link to a thread on using AI Servo mode with custom function 04. References photographer Arthur Morris and his use of C.Fn-04 for birding.

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28314

[Pekka]

How AI Servo thinks in EOS 1 series cameras: http://photonotes.org/other/ai-servo.html

[CyberDyneSystems]

Three more threads here;

So, you got a new EOS and wanna shoot weddings (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27908)

And...

Just got a new DSLR camera? (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29445)

All with more great tips.


-=How to test your 10D for backfocusing=- (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=213493#213493)

[roanjohn]

www.leebase.com

For Rebel users.

Also included is the free "Velvia" action for PS elements and 7.

Ro1

[Scottes]

From Bob Atkins over on photo.net
http://www.photo.net/learn/optics/tc2/index.html

Also has a link to a Tamron 1.4 vs Canon 1.4 article:
http://www.photo.net/learn/optics/2tcs/index.html

[picnic]

[quote]iwatkins wrote:
Put soft self adhesive Velcro on the sides & tops of your flashes. Then
I also have black cards that I can put on the sides of off-camera flashes that function a
flag to prevent flare. In a recent shoot I used flags on both sides of the 420 flash. The
closest one to the camera prevented flare and the one on the other side of the flash prevented the flash
from spilling onto the background.

I love this tip. I already have velcro on one of my flashes-so will try this. Great tip.

Diane

[12345Michael54321]

1. A few photography books checked out from your local public library, assuming you choose books appropriate to your needs and truly study them, will cost nothing and should improve your images more than yet another accessory.

2. Visiting the art museum will likely cost little or nothing, and again - it'll improve your work more than would another accessory.

3. Feedback matters. We improve through feedback. Join a local camera club, and let your work be ruthlessly critiqued. Enter your club's competitions. Learn how to politely and constructively critique other members' work.

4. Most community colleges offer inexpensive classes on various aspects of photography. I'm taking a Photoshop course at the local college, this fall. (For some reason, no "Photoshop CS for Digital Photographers" courses were offered at my high school in 1979. So I took Advanced B&W Darkroom, instead.)

5. Don't be too much of an equipment snob. There's a saying sometimes heard in firearms conversations, "Beware the man who owns just one gun; he probably knows how to use it." Similarly, that guy standing next to you, taking pictures with the 30 year old 35mm SLR w/50mm f/2 lens, may just know how to use his equipment to its best advantage. And, consequently, shoot rings around 98% of us.

6. Place little faith in most magazines' published equipment reviews. Our sun will go nova before Pop Photo prints a negative review of a piece of Nikon, Canon, etc., equipment.

7. Unless you've a good and compelling reason to do otherwise, always shoot in highest quality mode. It takes no more than a few seconds to resize a high resolution original, should you need to shrink it down for email or a website. But nothing can add information to a low resolution original.

8. Fine-tuning an image in Photoshop (or Paintshop Pro, or something similar) is not cheating. Sure, it can be overdone, but there's nothing inherently wrong with adjusting contrast, using unsharp mask, or the like. The saying used to be that great photos are made or lost in the darkroom. Well, the computer is the digital photographer's darkroom.

9. If you delay buying until the new and improved model is introduced, you'll wind up never buying. Because there's always a newer and more improved model rumored to be introduced at the next big trade show.

10. If friends ask you to shoot their wedding, because they know you're not a professional or anything but they're on a really tight budget... run away. Okay, if that's not practical, consider hiring an inexpensive professional photographer as your wedding gift to the couple. If that's not practical, consider buying a bunch of disposable cameras, putting a few at eah table, and inviting guests to snap pictures, then deposit the cameras in a big "Wedding Pictures" bag on the way out. If that's not practical, run away. (Amateurs should be extremely reluctant to photograph weddings, in much the same way that 1st year medical students should be extremely reluctant to perform heart transplants.)

11. If you don't derive a significant percentage of your income from photography, you are an amateur photographer. Having once sold a picture to your hometown newspaper doesn't make you a professional. It doesn't make you a semi-pro or a prosumer (avoid both of these terms). What it makes you is an amateur photographer who once sold a picture to your hometown newspaper. And there's nothing wrong with admitting that you're an amateur.

12. You're probably less of an expert than you think you are.

13. Try to spend more time taking pictures, than you spend on the Internet writing about taking pictures.

14. If you just feel burned out, and don't want to pick up a camera again, take some time off. Put the camera in the closet, and forget about it for a while. Days, weeks, maybe months. Eventually, you'll probably start feeling motivated to take up the camera again. And when you do, you may find your work has improved over what you were turning out before your break.

15. It's a tool. Treat it with the respect and care a precision tool deserves. It's not a fragile relic, too delicate to be used. Yes, it's sort of expensive. Well, so is a car, but if I told you I don't take my car out in the rain, or drive near sand, for fear that it might result in my car no longer remaining in pristine, mint new condition, you'd be right to think I was crazy. Camera equipment is only worth having if you make use of it! (No nitpickers bring up the possibility that it's a $1.2 million classic, one-of-a-kind car, or a digital camera handmade out of the finest, most delicate porcelain.)

16. Always stop at #15.

[1sdman]

ONLY use the camera to format the memory cards.

Reformat them on a regular basis to prevent image loss.

[davidwhatley]

Well It looks like someone found a good tip, read the posts. But DO NOT bump 3yr old posts:)

[FScott]

Here's my two cents:

Learn how ETTL flashes work on canon digital SLRs. It isn't obvious. Read this:

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

A couple of over simplified examples: I shoot with my EX flash usually three ways:

1) with the camera on "M" which really isn't "manual" with an EX flash it is
more like "auto-flash", i.e. you set the aperture and shutter speed to what you want and the flash provides the light to get you to a "correct" exposure.

2) On "P". It is really the only time I ever use "P". The default for EX flashes on a 20D is as a fill flash, i.e. the camera will try to set the shutter speed/aperture for correct exposure without the flash and just uses the flash to illuminate shadows.

3) on aperture-priority with the flash sync fixed at 1/250 (custom function on a 20D). This is when I want the flash on maximum sync speed, damn it.

-- Scott.

[Sincerity]

Longwatch,I have just read how you leave your 10D set to P. F8. 1/125 etc. Please, how do you do this when P allows you to set either shutter or AV, on my 30D anyway?

[CyberDyneSystems]

Resurrection!

What he is saying is this

- Av to f8
- Tv to 1/125
- Manual 1/125 f8
- Put camera in "P" mode

He switches from one mode to another regularly, (or he did back in 2003 when he posts that) and when he does, he wants to have these AI settings preset to the above list.

So, first set camera to AV, and set f/8
then set camera to TV @ 125.. etc..

Then if he starts out in P, and switches to "AV" he knows he's allready be set to f/8 in AV.. he won't also have to dial in AV.. the camera remembers this setting. .. and so on.

For those of us that never shoot in "P" anymore, the practice of leaving your camera set to "p" when not in use is still not a bad idea at all. It means if you ever have to grab for your camera and shoot instantly, this takes as much pressure and time off the shooter to do so. If you do have time to twiddle first, you can always twiddle out of "P" and into AV or Manual or what have you.

[probe1957]

Resurrection!



Indeed. Some of the people who posted in this thread are probably dead now. :lol:

[Sincerity]

Sorry misunderstood your explanation.

[ed rader]

Tape a little reminder on the top or back of your camera,.

"Check ISO!"

Too often I pick up my camera and shoot outdoors in strong afternoon light while the ISO is still set to 800 or even 1600 form an evenings shooting in a dark theatre!


happens to me way too often too :D.

ed rader

[MikeI]

Wow!! A thread approaching 5 years old! I still read every post. My tip?

Always have a sand/bean/rice/bird seed bag handy. I keep one in my hard case, one in my back pack, one in my car, and have a few more laying around. My wife makes them in about three minutes. My favorite is 8" long and 4" wide and has a few cups of rice inside. When I'm driving, it snugly holds my camera on the center console. No tripod? No problem...the bag is malleable and will hold the body and lens. Place on top (or hanging underneath) of camera on tripod to help dampen vibrations. It is inexpensive and has a ton of uses.

[Tom O]

[quote=Longwatcher;103206]Related to ISO (I also still do this)
Before putting Camera away for the day, check to make sure everything has been returned to default settings.

For my 10D:
- Put in cleared CF card
- Format to camera
- RAW mode
- ISO to 100
- Review mode to on, 2 secs with info.
- Av to f8
- Tv to 1/125
- Manual 1/125 f8
- Put camera in "P" mode
- Turn it off.
- Make sure either 28-70L or 28-135 IS is on 10D
- Put cameras in case.

What a great routine. Can't believe I never gave that a thought even after missing shots because I was setup from the last shoot..Many thanks for that!!

[Tom O]

Wow!! A thread approaching 5 years old! I still read every post. My tip?

Always have a sand/bean/rice/bird seed bag handy. I keep one in my hard case, one in my back pack, one in my car, and have a few more laying around. My wife makes them in about three minutes. My favorite is 8" long and 4" wide and has a few cups of rice inside. When I'm driving, it snugly holds my camera on the center console. No tripod? No problem...the bag is malleable and will hold the body and lens. Place on top (or hanging underneath) of camera on tripod to help dampen vibrations. It is inexpensive and has a ton of uses.

Mike..I too am reading this old thread with great interest. Thanks for your tip..pure genius my friend..later..I'm off to make mine now.

[docgecko]

Hi all....I'm a newbie to this forum. I'm also an amature when it comes to photography but I'm living proof that you CAN teach an old dog new tricks. :-) I have a question about Remote Controls. I just upgraded from a 300d to the 450d. I have the Canon cable remote control but would lke to go with a wireless one. Is there one that actually works from my being BEHIND the camera instead of having to be in front of it like the infared remote? Thanks for your help. I look forward to using this forum.

[Hermeto]

Hi all....I'm a newbie to this forum. I'm also an amature when it comes to photography but I'm living proof that you CAN teach an old dog new tricks. :-) I have a question about Remote Controls. I just upgraded from a 300d to the 450d. I have the Canon cable remote control but would lke to go with a wireless one. Is there one that actually works from my being BEHIND the camera instead of having to be in front of it like the infared remote? Thanks for your help. I look forward to using this forum.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Phottix-Cleon-Wireless-Remote-C6-for-Canon-400D-450D_W0QQitemZ180249487382QQihZ008QQcategoryZ64345 QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

[Joecoral]

sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a question. From reading the thread, many of you seem to advocate leaving the battery in the camera whilst storing the camera away in it's bag/case. IME this always seems to drain the battery for when I next use it, as opposed to removing the battery from the camera before storing.
Or am I misunderstanding, and it's only meant for the short term?

[CyberDyneSystems]

I think the recommendation is short term, ie, when you need the camrrta the battery is in it ready to go.

I for one never remember to take the battery out before long term storage though, and usually there is still a good bit of charge in them when it comes time to shoot again. But yes for intended long term storage, battery removal would be a good idea for a few reasons.

[Lester Wareham]

Ever go to use the camera and find you had left a high ISO on, MLU on, some odd focus point or mode selected?

I always try to return the camera to a standard mode for what I am working in and return to that whilst doing that, and more importantly a standard storage mode when I put it away.

So when I put the camera away I check: ISO 100, MLU off, EC 0, FEC 0, Mode AV, f5.6, Servo focus, single frame advance, centre focus point.

[Lester Wareham]

sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a question. From reading the thread, many of you seem to advocate leaving the battery in the camera whilst storing the camera away in it's bag/case. IME this always seems to drain the battery for when I next use it, as opposed to removing the battery from the camera before storing.
Or am I misunderstanding, and it's only meant for the short term?

I have never had that issue significantly. I always leave the battery in and ready to go.

But I do swap (I have two batteries) and change the one I have been using. I always make sure I have a fully charged spare ready.

It is rare I find for a battery to run out in a shoot. The first time this happened it was because the camera crashed and this seemed to drain it in the few seconds it took my meat brain to realize what was happening. I had no spare at the time and that scrubbed the shoot. As soon as I got in I ordered a spare.

If your battery is flat after say a couple of weeks in the camera in storage then it probably needs to be replaced. Alternatively, if you did not charge it before you stored it it may have been more drained than was indicated from the display; the display on my 20D goes from full to part full slowly, but to almost empty very suddenly. I never trust the battery status indicator.

[Lester Wareham]

Ever find that big long white lens weighing you down when it is mounted and you are carrying it?

Leave the tripod ring on, tuck the foot of the tripod ring in your belt, adjust your neck-strap so it slack and just acts as a drop safety. Let your belt take the weight, it will feel much lighter and won't bounce around.

[Lester Wareham]

Are you covered?

I am a homeowner and the Farmer's Dude said, "No problem up to about 10k since we talked. We DID talk, didn't we?". Don't trust this. You pay the premium, you make the rules.

One: Verify your coverage for: Theft, Loss, Fell off the tripod, I was too drunk to remember, and Other Acts of God. (He gets blamed with all of our stupid problems but Insurance Companies just LOVE his name!) You get the picture.

Two: Document. If you don't have receipts; it didn't happen.

Three: Photograph! We are, after all, the photo folks. Keep a cd with photos of all your gear in a safe place. Your exif will prove camera model, lens type, date, etc., etc.

Four: Renter? There is special coverage for you but it is not automatic in many cases as it is for homeowners. It is, however, very affordable.

Moral: See where you stand. Stuff happens to the nicest people, and you are the nicest I know!


ALSO: Put one of those diode lights that cost $1.50 or so and deliver 500 hours of light on your camera strap for the LCD on late nights, like Haloween.

They also help when you need to run into the bush for a quick pee stop, and let you see what the hell you stumbled over. :)

Chris.

Great advice there. I'll add a few.

Make a spreadsheet showing each item, serial number if applicable, purchase date, supplier, and cost. Send a print attached to your premium payment and mention in the cover letter that payment acceptance agrees that the items are 'on risk'.

Work with the sheet to make sure you know what various combinations you may take out together, the maximum cost value needs to be under 'all risks', the balance can be covered by you ordinary home cover.

Ensure you have enough cover for all items under risk else any claim will be pro-ratered down by the loss adjuster.

Make sure you understand the maximum cover limit of single items, particularly under all risks cover, very expensive items might need to be individually named. These limits sometimes vary by article type, ie special limits for jewelry.

Ensure your cover is 'new for old', i.e will not include a deduction for ware-and-tear. Find out how cover value will escalate at each renewal of the policy and be sure there is enough each time to cover the actual level of inflation.

Be happy if your company will send an inspector to your house, you can make sure he documents that he is happy with your security measures and even make him eyeball important items. Beter they find any problems BEFORE a loss!

[Canon Bob]

Ever find that big long white lens weighing you down when it is mounted and you are carrying it?

Leave the tripod ring on, tuck the foot of the tripod ring in your belt, adjust your neck-strap so it slack and just acts as a drop safety. Let your belt take the weight, it will feel much lighter and won't bounce around.

Just need clarification on this one Lester....do you have the lens inside or outside your pants? I can imagine that both options would lead to admiring glances but from two differing perspectives.

Bob

[Lester Wareham]

Just need clarification on this one Lester....do you have the lens inside or outside your pants? I can imagine that both options would lead to admiring glances but from two differing perspectives.

Bob

:)

Normally outside the pants Bob, and on the hip. :rolleyes:

However your suggestion sounds a lot more effective than the traditional bundle of spare socks one hears off, but I expect it would rather restrict movement. :confused: