PDA

View Full Version : Tungsten or Daylight bulb?


GhillieSkins
29th of October 2003 (Wed), 01:57
Hello again,
Can anyone tell me the difference between these two types of lights and which would provide best results for internal portrait shots?

tungsten 3200K blue bulbs and 4800K daylight

Also, if I'm using one of these 2 light types along with a hooded 550EX flash (for my 10D), would a standard F4 Canon 28-90 lense with be sufficent in gathering enough light?

Thanks gang,
Mike

DaveG
29th of October 2003 (Wed), 07:20
ghillieskins wrote:
Hello again,
Can anyone tell me the difference between these two types of lights and which would provide best results for internal portrait shots?

tungsten 3200K blue bulbs and 4800K daylight

Also, if I'm using one of these 2 light types along with a hooded 550EX flash (for my 10D), would a standard F4 Canon 28-90 lense with be sufficent in gathering enough light?

Thanks gang,
Mike



If you were to use the 550 and lights at the same time then I would suggest the 4800 degree bulbs. Otherwise you'll have two different colour tempertures.

Having said that, I would discourage anyone from using hot lights in portraiture at all. They are very dangerous. If a little kid was to touch one or knock one over then there is a very real possibility of bad burns or even a fire starting. Hot lights are also remarkably weak. They look extremely bright but they will have many times less light than your 550EX.

So my fundamental suggestion is to get either some studio strobe flash, or perhaps a Canon 420EX. With the 420, a stand and an umbrella you can start to use Canon's wireless TTL flash system.

Jean-Luc
29th of October 2003 (Wed), 09:40
DaveG wrote:
ghillieskins wrote:
Hello again,
Can anyone tell me the difference between these two types of lights and which would provide best results for internal portrait shots?

tungsten 3200K blue bulbs and 4800K daylight

Also, if I'm using one of these 2 light types along with a hooded 550EX flash (for my 10D), would a standard F4 Canon 28-90 lense with be sufficent in gathering enough light?

Thanks gang,
Mike



If you were to use the 550 and lights at the same time then I would suggest the 4800 degree bulbs. Otherwise you'll have two different colour tempertures.

Having said that, I would discourage anyone from using hot lights in portraiture at all. They are very dangerous. If a little kid was to touch one or knock one over then there is a very real possibility of bad burns or even a fire starting. Hot lights are also remarkably weak. They look extremely bright but they will have many times less light than your 550EX.

So my fundamental suggestion is to get either some studio strobe flash, or perhaps a Canon 420EX. With the 420, a stand and an umbrella you can start to use Canon's wireless TTL flash system.



Wireless ... Mmmmm, it will need an expensive ST-E2 ...

Cheers

DaveG
29th of October 2003 (Wed), 12:05
Why would you need the ST-E2 transmitter?

The 550EX - which he has - is the Master and is used at the camera position as the fill. The 420EX is the slaved main light and is used off camera. You select the B group on the back of the 420 and the 550 will default to being the A.

There ya go, no ST-E2.

openspace
30th of October 2003 (Thu), 03:40
It doesn't really matter. Shoot RAW and adjust the color temp and tone balance during your RAW conversion. Ah, the beauty of the digital world.

GhillieSkins
30th of October 2003 (Thu), 04:32
It is obvious that "a little bit of knowledge" behalf my part is a dangerous thing. I did some more research and what I found out is that my real goal is to attain the "floating object" effect. I think I will achieve this with a white backdrop, two 500 watt quartz flood lights portrayed onto the background, then two 600 watt quartz lights w/umbrellas to illuminate the object. Basically 2200 screaming watts of continous light along with my 10D (and not using flash). Since I'm not extensive in knowledge yet I think I will stay away from bouncing flash and all that good stuff. I'm figuring to make about a $500 investment in all this stuff to achive my goal. Does this sound like a good plan? Additionally I've found that 500 watt quartz bulbs sell for around $19. I thought of running down to Home Depot and picking up 4 of thier clamp light dishes for about $10 each but I'm not sure if they are rated to support a 500 watt bulb. Does all this sound like it makes sense?

A place that I found that has good kits available for this is: http://sell-it-on-the-net.com/index.html

DaveG
30th of October 2003 (Thu), 06:41
ghillieskins wrote:
It is obvious that "a little bit of knowledge" behalf my part is a dangerous thing. I did some more research and what I found out is that my real goal is to attain the "floating object" effect. I think I will achieve this with a white backdrop, two 500 watt quartz flood lights portrayed onto the background, then two 600 watt quartz lights w/umbrellas to illuminate the object. Basically 2200 screaming watts of continous light along with my 10D (and not using flash). Since I'm not extensive in knowledge yet I think I will stay away from bouncing flash and all that good stuff. I'm figuring to make about a $500 investment in all this stuff to achive my goal. Does this sound like a good plan? Additionally I've found that 500 watt quartz bulbs sell for around $19. I thought of running down to Home Depot and picking up 4 of thier clamp light dishes for about $10 each but I'm not sure if they are rated to support a 500 watt bulb. Does all this sound like it makes sense?

A place that I found that has good kits available for this is: http://sell-it-on-the-net.com/index.html

I just hope you have some good insurance because it's a fire waiting to start.

Have a look at getting a couple of Alien Bee's. They (or any other monolight) are safe and much more powerful than these flood lights.