FC v Wombles (tests)

[KIPAX]

Having not had much fun in RAW with 10d+ sigma 120-300 I decided to go JPG and far better results for me... what do you think to these? .. Shot in AV then auto levels and the very slightest unsharp mask

FC United of Manchester v AFC Wimbledon in the Supporters Direct cup.. FC won 2-1

http://www.kipax.com/mbgfx/potn/womble1.jpg

http://www.kipax.com/mbgfx/potn/womble2.jpg

http://www.kipax.com/mbgfx/potn/womble3.jpg

[brolly]

nice mate, a few of mine from yesterday

Trips & Tumbles
http://www.fcumgallery.co.uk/200607/afcwimbledon/images/pic026.jpg

The Winner
http://www.fcumgallery.co.uk/200607/afcwimbledon/images/pic069.jpg

The Fans
http://www.fcumgallery.co.uk/200607/afcwimbledon/images/pic082.jpg

[gsgary]

Having not had much fun in RAW with 10d+ sigma 120-300 I decided to go JPG and far better results for me... what do you think to these? .. Shot in AV then auto levels and the very slightest unsharp mask

FC United of Manchester v AFC Wimbledon in the Supporters Direct cup.. FC won 2-1

http://www.kipax.com/mbgfx/potn/womble1.jpg

http://www.kipax.com/mbgfx/potn/womble2.jpg

http://www.kipax.com/mbgfx/potn/womble3.jpg

Much better, that lens is going to rock with more practice

[KIPAX]

Much better, that lens is going to rock with more practice

Cheers.. I feel there better and am gonna stick with JPG .. I am keeping raw on the other 10d that i ahve shorter lens on..

Pick up my 1d mkII on monday night so the combo should be complete..

Brolly tried my 120-300 lens yesterdsy.. are you saving for one?

[brolly]

Cheers.. I feel there better and am gonna stick with JPG .. I am keeping raw on the other 10d that i ahve shorter lens on..

Pick up my 1d mkII on monday night so the combo should be complete..

Brolly tried my 120-300 lens yesterdsy.. are you saving for one?

i'm leaning towards a new body first i reckon

[KIPAX]

Those are hopefully my last action shots with a 10d.. The 10d will now hold the shorter lens for crowd and team shots..

I am going to shoot manual for the first half an hr on tuesday night with the 1dmkii and then resort back to AV just in case :) Manual (presuming excellent light) will be ss 1/1000 f2.8 and iso 100 and up the iso if required... gives me plenty of leeway to down the ss if iso getting too high.... does that sound like a plan?

av i normally 2.8 and up the iso as the light fades.. m seems simple enough... har har

only thing is... the 10d tells me when over/under exposed and the 1d doesnt.. so how will i know apart from viewing the pics?

[Rich_claypole]

Thought there was an option to show blown highlights at least? Not got the body in front of me at the moment.

Anyway and man of your expereince should know if you are under / over exposing :D without the camera telling you.

Take the reading off the grass as a starting point and you won't go far wrong.

[KIPAX]

haha your joking... I am scared stiff of this thing... might feel better tommorow but only when I get home and see what I ahve got...:)

[Rich_claypole]

haha your joking... I am scared stiff of this thing... might feel better tommorow but only when I get home and see what I ahve got...:)

You will get used to it pretty quick. Meter off the grass and set the results in manual. Take few sample shots and tweak slightly. Keep an eye on the exposure reading in the viewfinder, will give you an idea, so it may say 2 notches over exposed, as the game progresses I keep an eye on the exposure reading and adjust settings to keep it at the original level, every 15 mins or so check the exposure by reading off the grass again, same applies if the lighting changes dramatically, take a quick reading and set accordingly.

Sure the results will be OK.

If in doubt just shoot in AV, but check the exposure, may need to set exposuer compensation to get the right results.

[LMP]

Thought there was an option to show blown highlights at least? Not got the body in front of me at the moment.

Yep, it certainly does :)

[KIPAX]

manual under/over .... ignore my comments...its up the right hand side....duh ... not enough play with it before posting :)

iso: I shouldnt need H but does anyone use L ?
noise reduction on/off ?
colour matrix: standard?

[Rich_claypole]

Never used L, I think if you set to L then the dynamic range is reduced slightly from ISO 100, so use 100 if you can.

Noise reduction only comes in to play for long exposures (2 seconds or longer I think), so unless you plan to do some real arty type shots with long exposures then leave it off...If it is one it has no effect for short exposures.

Colour matrix.....ummm....Depends on what your workflow is.....at the moment I shoot Adobe RGB and then batch proocess in CS2 and convert the colour profile to sRGB as the last process step (if being viewed on the WEB). If you want pics straight out of the camera then go with sRGB. Really a workflow decission.

I always shoot with AWB.

Center focus point and set to expand to 7 points through the custom function.

Set AI Servo tracking to Slow, this stops the camera locking on to a new subject instantly i.e. a player runs in front of the camera, the focus will not switch immediately, delays for a fraction of a second. Does not affect the foucs speed or AI Servo speed, just affects the time to lock on to a new subject.

Set drive speed to high (feel that baby shoot like a gattling gun)

Ensure the vertical grip buttons are switched on, got me a couple of times when I have switched to portrait and the buttons don't work, always check that those are enabled before shooting.

Also, when reviewing images, looking at the menu somethimes the screen would just go blank, that would be me catching the shutter button on the vertical grip, worth knowing as it can be a worry until you realise what you have done :)

Just shoot loads of shots and enjoy the beast....!

Wouldn't worry about picture styles just yet, leave it as standard.

Canon suggest in one of their papers that a USM of 300 0.3 0 should be applied as a starting point to images to remove the affect of the AA filter (thats the only USM that was appliedd to the RFC images I posted the other day, 300 0.3 0 on the original then re-sized, no further sharpening, seems to work).

There is a great paper on the WEB, not seen an updated on for the MKIIn yet, but this covers the MKII so is a good starting point:

http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/EOS_Digital.pdf

[KIPAX]

Center focus point and set to expand to 7 points through the custom function.


I had and always use center.. But how does 7 work.. I ahve set it... how do I use it and in what circumstances or is it auto


Set AI Servo tracking to Slow, this stops the camera locking on to a new subject instantly i.e. a player runs in front of the camera, the focus will not switch immediately, delays for a fraction of a second. Does not affect the foucs speed or AI Servo speed, just affects the time to lock on to a new subject.



oh wow.. excellent feature and set


Set drive speed to high (feel that baby shoot like a gattling gun)



already tried.. it was wild.. hehe :)


http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/EOS_Digital.pdf


Looks a good read and thanks for the other pointers.. all sensible when pointed out.. Northwich Vic v Accy tonight and Accy v Blackpool tommorow night.... will post what I get out of it.. will be using the 120-300 all the time on it..


fanx :)

[Rich_claypole]

I had and always use center.. But how does 7 work.. I ahve set it... how do I use it and in what circumstances or is it auto


It is automatic, center point is used for the initial focus, but when you have set to expand to 7 points then the surrounding (7) AF points are used to help with the tracking of the subject.

Was hoping to cover Bracknell Towns visit to Fleet town tonight, but the missus is away on a residential training course so I am left to look after the bambino!!!!

Swindon Town v Reading on Sat though. Should make for a few decent snaps.

[gmen]

iso: I shouldnt need H but does anyone use L ?You're lucky that you're not scheduled to play Mansfield away midweek this season, you'd certainly need H (ISO3200) then :rolleyes:

L (ISO50) has its moments. There is supposed to be a reduction in dynamic range, however I haven't noticed it in real-life use. ISO50 has come in handy for motorsports in bright conditions where I want to reduce the shutter speed a notch without increasing DOF.

Canon suggest in one of their papers that a USM of 300 0.3 0 should be applied as a starting pointIt's a reasonable start point. However, the amount of sharpening applied is heavily ISO dependent and depends on image size and final output as well. You'll gradually find settings that work for different ISOs and different output media (print, web, etc...)

Sharpening should generally be the last step in your workflow.

Avoid using the in-camera sharpening (unless you're shooting RAW), if only for one reason: If you set it fairly high and then shoot at high ISO, you'll have lovely sharpened noise that is impossible to get rid of ;)

Another little tip... In bright, harsh lighting conditions (when shooting jpg), try dialling the in-camera contrast down to -1 as this buys you some headroom before the highlights explode.

Have fun with the new machine KIPAX.

---- Gavin

[KIPAX]

Thanks guys.. It would have took quite a few games to suss all this out on my own... The ai servo slow and expanded 7 points I just know before I try are going to get me a hell of a lot more keepers. both are exactly what I need.

I just hope I ahve summat to show you tonight :)

[Rich_claypole]

Some people prefer Slow, other leave as standard....the best thing is to try it yourself and find out what suits your style of shooting best.

Look forward to seeing the results.