Adapter for older flashes

[twinsrus]

What kind of adapter to you have to buy to protect circuitry on the Canon digitals? I want to get a Vivitar 283 and I know there is some sort of shoe that goes between the camera and the flash that does this job.

By the way, would this work with the off-the-camera cord you can get for the flash?

Thanks!

[Curtis N]

Search B&H for a Wein Safe-sync.

I don't have one, but I don't see why you couldn't use it with a sync cord.

[FlashZebra]

What kind of adapter to you have to buy to protect circuitry on the Canon digitals? I want to get a Vivitar 283 and I know there is some sort of shoe that goes between the camera and the flash that does this job.

By the way, would this work with the off-the-camera cord you can get for the flash?

Thanks!
Paramount will make you a custom cord that will plug directly to the Vivitar 283 and whatever you want on the camera end (hotshoe or male PC). They can also put a voltage limiting device in the cord.

It will cost about $80.00 or so with the voltage limiting circuit and about $45.00 without the circuit.

http://paramountcords.com/

Wein makes several versions of the "Safe Sync". Most likely you will want one that fits on the camera hotshoe. They have one with just a female PC plug, and another with both a female PC plug and a hotshoe. I think they are about $50.00 or so.

Enjoy! Lon

Chec

[FlashZebra]

Another thought.

This thing might solve both issues. Get it off the camera, but no direct electrical connection.

I use the Chinese radio sync devices, but never this particular one, so I cannot comment on the quality of this unit, or the ebay merchant.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Wireless-Radio-Flash-Trigger-Slave-Multi-Channels_W0QQitemZ130009330134QQihZ003QQcategoryZ3 0086QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Enjoy! Lon

[twinsrus]

Thanks for the suggestions. At least I've got some options.

Probably wondering why I want to "go back" to a 283. When I shot film, I had great success with the 283 and got used to setting the dials on the flash and the F-stop on the camera - pretty much manual shooting, right?. These automatic flashes get fooled really easily. I get good shots a lot of the time, but overall, I'm pretty disappointed with them. I haven't figured out the manual part on the digital cameras yet, so I'm going with what I know.

Thanks again for your advice. As always, good to hear from the experts.

[Curtis N]

Twins,

Nothing wrong with using what you're comfortable with.

Keep in mind that good flash units nowadays also have manual modes and adjustable power, sometimes from full power down to 1/128 in full stops. And they also have electronic distance scales on the back which give you your range. They automatically account for your aperture and ISO settings so you don't have to do the math.

Veterans of auto-thyristor flash units rave about their ability to get "perfect exposure every time", but I wonder how much adjusting was being done by the lab to get their prints right.

A good E-TTL flash unit also allows you to quickly adjust FEC and choose between average, evaluative and partial metering. Flash exposure lock is also useful in tricky situations. Then there are the bells & whistles like high-speed sync and wireless E-TTL master/slave arrangements which open up more possibilities.

A good flash unit like a Canon 580EX or a Sigma EF-500 DG Super can not only work in manual mode as you are accustomed to, but also do a lot more.

[RossW]

Veterans of auto-thyristor flash units rave about their ability to get "perfect exposure every time", but I wonder how much adjusting was being done by the lab to get their prints right.

No doubt that new dedicated E-TTL flashes are great, but I learned SLR shooting 30+ years ago with Ektachrome slide film... no lab adjusting for those. Any yes, I could get terrific flash shots with my Sunpak 411. I used it to great effect on auto, as well as dialing down the power output to match distance/aperture settings. Even great shots with color-correcting filter on the flash to balance it with room light when shooting Tungsten Ekta... yep, I'll rave about it! :D (The Vivitar 283 was a very close second pick for me, but I ultimately liked the 411's standard features.)

[twinsrus]

Twins,

Nothing wrong with using what you're comfortable with.

Keep in mind that good flash units nowadays also have manual modes and adjustable power, sometimes from full power down to 1/128 in full stops. And they also have electronic distance scales on the back which give you your range. They automatically account for your aperture and ISO settings so you don't have to do the math.

Veterans of auto-thyristor flash units rave about their ability to get "perfect exposure every time", but I wonder how much adjusting was being done by the lab to get their prints right.

A good E-TTL flash unit also allows you to quickly adjust FEC and choose between average, evaluative and partial metering. Flash exposure lock is also useful in tricky situations. Then there are the bells & whistles like high-speed sync and wireless E-TTL master/slave arrangements which open up more possibilities.

A good flash unit like a Canon 580EX or a Sigma EF-500 DG Super can not only work in manual mode as you are accustomed to, but also do a lot more.
I don't understand my flash well enough yet to use the manual or adjustable stops yet. The distances on the back are good unless you are in a hurry. And it takes time and experience to get comfortable, both of what I haven't had enough of yet with the unit. Still learning how to shoot pictures again.

With the 283, you could just dial up a color for the distance and set the f-stop. Sync was 1/60 and I always used 100 ASA Fuji film. So the guesswork was minimal and I got really good pictures. Digital is a whole new ballgame. But I learned how to do it before, I can do it again. At least I can figure it our burning up electrons instead of film!

Thanks again for your help.

[PhotosGuy]

Probably wondering why I want to "go back" to a 283. I'm still using mine! ;)

[twinsrus]

I'm still using mine! ;)

Are you using the adpater they suggest?

[PhotosGuy]

Yes, the Wein Safe Sync HSHSB. It even has a PC outlet on it!
I got it for the 300D & someone said that we don't need it for the 283 & the 20D, but I haven't confirmed that & still use it.

[FlashZebra]

Yes, the Wein Safe Sync HSHSB. It even has a PC outlet on it!
I got it for the 300D & someone said that we don't need it for the 283 & the 20D, but I haven't confirmed that & still use it.
Unless you check the sync Voltage on your particular 283, I would continue using the Safe Sync.

It is my understanding that the 20D is good to a sync Voltage max of 250 Volts.

But, I have personally measured at least two 283 flash units that have sync Voltages in excess of 300 Volts.

Enjoy! Lon