550Ex Speedlite Transmitter and Studio Flash

[chris.bailey]

As my indoor studio is a little cramped (to say the least) and as my subjects are often my kids, I like to avoid too many trailing wires. As I hate the restrictions of using a tripod I tend to use the 550EX mounted on camera to fire the slaves of my Bowens units. 550Ex on manual set to 1/16 or 1/32 still fires them fine so does not afect exposures. That also means I can keep the flash meter attached to the main light sync lead.

That works really well but I wanted to get rid of the bulk of the 550EX on the camera so bought a speedlite transmitter so that I can put the 550EX somewhere else and use it to fire the flashes or add some lighting to the background etc. Doing that, however, totally upsets the sync and though the 550EX is in manual mode I can only think it is ETTL pre-flashing and this is setting off the studio units. It would be a nice tidy solution IF I could get it working. Anyone else here managed it?

[DaveG]

chris.bailey wrote:
As my indoor studio is a little cramped (to say the least) and as my subjects are often my kids, I like to avoid too many trailing wires. As I hate the restrictions of using a tripod I tend to use the 550EX mounted on camera to fire the slaves of my Bowens units. 550Ex on manual set to 1/16 or 1/32 still fires them fine so does not afect exposures. That also means I can keep the flash meter attached to the main light sync lead.

That works really well but I wanted to get rid of the bulk of the 550EX on the camera so bought a speedlite transmitter so that I can put the 550EX somewhere else and use it to fire the flashes or add some lighting to the background etc. Doing that, however, totally upsets the sync and though the 550EX is in manual mode I can only think it is ETTL pre-flashing and this is setting off the studio units. It would be a nice tidy solution IF I could get it working. Anyone else here managed it?

Based on what you've described I don't think that you need the 550 or the transmitter at all. You just want a small inexpensive flash in your camera's hot shoe that will create enough light to pop the slaved monolights. This small flash would reduce the bulk, cost almost nothing and alow you to flash meter the light output as usual.

If you can get this little flash with a tilting head you could aim it straight up so that it doesn't affect your shot at all.

[slin100]

I assume you have the ST-E2 transmitter. It, too, emits a preflash, and the preflash is triggering your studio units.

You can trick the ST-E2 into manual mode by covering the four small contacts and leaving the center contact exposed. This should fix your problem.

[chris.bailey]

slin100 wrote:
I assume you have the ST-E2 transmitter. It, too, emits a preflash, and the preflash is triggering your studio units.

You can trick the ST-E2 into manual mode by covering the four small contacts and leaving the center contact exposed. This should fix your problem.

Will give that a go. Having the 550 is handy as it makes a very light hairlight or is useful to light up a background

[chris.bailey]

chris.bailey wrote:
slin100 wrote:
I assume you have the ST-E2 transmitter. It, too, emits a preflash, and the preflash is triggering your studio units.

You can trick the ST-E2 into manual mode by covering the four small contacts and leaving the center contact exposed. This should fix your problem.

Will give that a go. Having the 550 is handy as it makes a very light hairlight or is useful to light up a background


Solved a treat by placing a Wein Safe Sync between the ST-E2 and the Camera. Can now use the 550EX in with my Studio Lights which is very useful.