Landscape pictures.

[Winston Smith]

Hello all.

I am relatively new to digital photography and I have come here to ask your advice. The reason I brought my G3 was for outdoor scenery shots, and shots of historic buildings etc. I am however, in my opinion at least, getting only limited success. What advice can you give me to get some decent outdoor scenes? I think that I will have to invest in a minitripod to eliminate the shake I often get in many of my photographs, what would you recommend the best settings were on the camera? Also are there any particular lenses that make for better outdoor photographs?

Here are a few examples of what I have managed so far ( all are @ 1024 x 768 ) ;

http://mysite.freeserve.com/phistory2/corby/111_1184.jpg 657KB
http://mysite.freeserve.com/phistory2/corby/112_1220.jpg 466KB
http://mysite.freeserve.com/phistory2/corby/112_1241_r1.jpg 555KB
http://mysite.freeserve.com/phistory2/corby/114_1419.jpg 507KB
http://mysite.freeserve.com/phistory2/corby/113_1363.jpg 391KB

Thanks for any assistance you can render.

[FlyingPete]

There are some great compositions there (in my humble opinion), I think it is the lighting that is letting them down.

First thing, yes get a tripod, you won't regret it!

I find landscapes look best early or late in the day, as the lighting is more interesting.

I will let you in on a landscape photographer’s secret, the polarising filter. This little filter can do wonders for blue skies and contrast; it is often the difference between a snapshot and a postcard shot. You will also need a Canon LADC58B or lensmate to use one.

Some of the buildings would probably look better in brighter harder direct light (on a clear day with no clouds), especially if they were done in black and white.

The last shot is under exposed in the foreground, probably due to the camera metering for the sky (unless you are going for a silhouette look). An imaging program could probably improve this however it is always best to get it right first time! You could try exposure compensation, or spot metering off the foreground. I have actually known people who take two shots, one exposed for the foreground, and the second for the sky, and combined them in Photoshop, and this is especially good for sunsets and sunrises.

Anyway that is my 5 cents worth (they don't have 2 cent coins in my country!)

[pradeep1]

Pedco makes some really nice minipods that I've had good luck with. The Ultrapod II is what I use.

See this thread and my comments and links for reference:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19711


Take Care,

Pradeep

[Winston Smith]

Cheers Gents.

I do have a query about using a tripod. Most of my shots I take are done whilst I am out walking, with a mini tripod it would appear that I have to place the camera very close to the ground to allow the tripod to support it, or am I just being daft?

On the polarising filters, I have looked on a number of digital photography sites and I cannot find a mention under the G3 compatible lens about any polarising ones, am I looking in the wrong place, or am I searching for the wrong name?

Thankyou very much gents.

[Silverman]

Can i use a polarizer filter after put on Uv filter? or i have to take it off?

Camera Canon G3 - Lens adapter (ladc58b) - UV Filter - Polarizer filter....
Anyone?

Silverman

[FlyingPete]

I use a 58mm Marumi 58mm CPL (Circular Polarising Filter), I initially bought it for my Canon non-digital SLR (which also has lens with 58mm thread).

When I use the CPL on my SLR, I do take the UV or skylight filter off, as I believe in having as little glass as possible between the subject and the film or sensor. I don't really thing leaving the UV on will give any real discernable improvement when the CPL is on.

As for a compatible filter, I know Canon won't list anything other than Canon accessories and we all know that only Canon Compact Flash cards work in their cameras! I know that the Marumi works and I would think that since it is really just two pieces of coated glass that any 58mm CPL should work fine. In fact I have heard the older cheaper linear polarisers also work on non-SLR digicams, haven't tested that but I do know they mess with an SLR's auto focus system.

Hmmm, tripods, you don't really need them in the middle of a nice bright day, but after you have stopped down for a good depth of field, and if you shoot early in the day or late at night (when the lighting is generally best), it sure helps get sharper shots. I have a small Slik I carry around; I have seen smaller tripods that fit in a pocket, as long as you have a car roof of fence to sit it on, but the slick is still stable enough to hold my SLR as well.

[Winston Smith]

Thanks gents.

Another question, what cases does eveyone use? Admittedly I don't have one yet, and with the adapter and the polarising lens the size of the camera is going to increase somewhat, so what case does everyone use?

Secondly. I have seen two types of circular polarising lens. Jessops do there own, at about £20, but Canon do their's at £80, what is the difference? Also, do I need the ladc58b adapter? What would that do if all I add is say a UV filter and a polarising filter?

Thanks again.

[Deckyon]

Yes, I posted this on OE as well.

I also looked at all the images. I am assuming when you say "sharpening up" you mean make look better, rather than actual sharpening. The images are sharp (in focus) so nothing really needs to be adjusted there. A few things to think about.

1. Yes, a polarizer will help out a lot. I use a Wide Circular Polarizer whenever I am shooting outside and it is daytime. Even when cloudy. I use the circular polarizer so that I can vary the amount of polarization. Some will say you can do the same with a linear polarizer. While this is true, I noticed a more dramatic effect with the circular polarizer. Some will also say a UV will help, but I never notice a difference with the UV filter, especially in the summer here, where it is humid and hot.

2. Try not to shoot in the middle of the day. I realize this is not always possible and circumstances arrise where you cannot choose when you will be somewhere. However you will get softer and more dramatic lighting in the mornings and late afternoons. Try and avoid the "noon-day sun" that, for me, lasts from about 11:00 am until about 3:00 pm.

3. Yes, there is a lot that Photoshop can do in the post processing arena. This requires patience and practice. Look into (like Bonnie states above) Levels and Curves. Also, look into Brightness/Contrase as well as Hue/Saturation.

Good luck.

[Deckyon]

To use any filter or conversion lens, you need an adapter. I bought 2 of the Canon ladc58b adapters, one I keep my telephoto conversion lens attached to for easy access.

Get the canon ladc58b. Many will steer you to the lensmate, but I am not 100% sold on the aluminum adapter against the plastic connection point. the adapter protects the lens housing by breaking, instead of the housing braking. The metal adapter wont break, but will break the housing.

[msvadi]

In addition to polarizer consider also a graduated neutral density filter. Can help a lot with getting the correct exposure for the whole scene if the contrast between sky and other parts of a picture is too strong.

[Winston Smith]

Thanks again.

This maybe a silly question, but with the different sizes, for example I have seen filters at 32mm or 58mm, what exactly does this mean?

Thanks.

[sdommin]

[b]This maybe a silly question, but with the different sizes, for example I have seen filters at 32mm or 58mm, what exactly does this mean?

32mm or 58mm is called the "thread size". It just means how wide the filter is. You need to buy filters that are the same size as the threads on your adapter, so that the filters can screw in to the adapter.

[r2d2]

is there a difference between an adapter TUBE and a LENS adapter? I see that people recomend the LADC58b but is that only to add a lens, or can you just add a filter?

[Daos]

I know that adaptor tube and lens adaptor represents the same thing.