What equipment to use when shooting a WRC-round? (rallysport

[vvizard]

Hi. In February, I'm planning a trip to the swedish WRC-round. I've never been on any of those races before, and plan to drag my new 10D for some action-shots. From what I've seen on TV, it's usually possible to get as close to the track as you dare. Those of you who've been to those rounds, correct me if I'm wrong. I'm buying a rally-pass, and it include access to all SS's and service-areas (at least that's what it says). How close does that mean I can get to the cars, drivers, mechanics when they're at service? Is it near enough to take pictures of it without the 1200mm? I do understand the mechanics like to be let alone when fixing the cars, so I don't reckon I can step up to do macro-photography.

Currently I have the 10D with the 50mm f/1.4. I'm saving money for my next lens. I'm a student, so money is a big factor. Specially since the trip itself will cost me nearly $1000. The lens I was actually planning to buy as my next was the 17-40mm f/4L. Another on my list was the 70-200mm f/4L.

Guess the 70-200mm will be a better choice for shooting rally-cars in motion. Any of you who could help me to decide here? And if this zoom-range is good for the purpose, what lens do you recommend? Is the 70-200mm f/4L the best for my budget? (I really can't afford the 2.8 or the 2.8 IS versions) or should I look at some of Sigma's too?

First off, I can say that I _really_ want an L-glass to find out what all this buss is really about =) And then the 70-200mm is actually quite cheap. The other alternatives I see are getting good reviews, is the Sigma "70-200mm f/2.8 EX APO IF HSM", and the "100-300mm f/2.8 EX APO IF HSM". According to b&h, the two first are about the same price. The first is of course "L", while the second is a faster lens. The last one gives me another 100mm for a 480mm effect on the 10D, with a good f/2.8. I also see the 100-300 get _excellent_ reviews on fredmiranda.com, but it's only based on three reviews :/ What do you guys think I should get to shoot the WRC-round? (I will also let the 50mm f/1.4 tag along in my backpack). I will also use the lens for dragraces, and whenever I need a telezoom.

Guess I also need to pick up a monopod? Would like some feeback on this, specially the experience of those of you (at least one I've seen) who have shot pictures during WRC-rounds. It's also important that the lens is able to give tack-sharp pictures of Solberg and his Subaru =)

BTW: If I'm totally off when I think the 70-200mm will be good, please tell me what focal-lengths I should look into for this purpose.

[vvizard]

Just to clearify a bit. I guess there's no doubt that the Sigma's are good lenses. But put it another way. Since I desperatly want to join the "L"-club, will it be possible that I will regret the Sigma-choice in the future? Or is it optical and physical on par with the 70-200mm f/4L ? At least close enough that I shouldn't worry? Cause the price is about the same (the Sigma's is actually maybe a tad more expensive). Is it worth it?

[defordphoto]

The 70-200 would be perfect. I haven't shot WRC but did shoot SCCA Pro Rally for awhile and the 70-200 would be perfect. Not if the 1.4TC works on that lens, but that'd also be a nice addition if you get into a spot that needs the extra reach.

WRC is much looser with their shooting areas than SCCA is, so I'm sure you'll get into some spots that'll be no less than freaking scary close to the cars. Is Sweden dirt or tarmac? If dirt, then wrap and seal your camera and lenses in plastic. That's what I used to do for the Pro Rally and it's a royal pain the butt. That's mainly why I quit shooting them. Too dang dirty.

Anyway, as the L-junkie I now am, I'll always vote L. Looking forward to seeing your shots!

EDIT: Oh duh! Sweden in Feb. That's a snow-bound rally then isn't it? Brrrrrr.

[iwatkins]

Where to start ? :)

Right, lens first. This is fairly straight forward. Buy the fastest lens you can afford. By fastest I mean both aperture and focusing speed. Also a zoom is a necessity.

A 70-200 would be fine, but go to 300 if you can afford it. It actually depends where you will be standing to take the shot. Even so, for rallying, I wouldn't spend thousands on a lens. There is a real risk of damage. If you are buying L glass anyway, then fine. But for rallying on its own, a faster Sigma would be better than a slower L.

WRC cars are very very quick, and you will not believe how fast they can accelerate out of corners even on snow/gravel.

If you are going to be at the Sweden round for a few days I would start by placing yourself somewhere just before a sharp corner. This will mean the cars are braking and will be covering the ground more slowly. This makes it easy to make head on and side shots.

Later you can try shots on the high speed straights but stand well back from the road (if possible) and try panning shots.

Later again, see if you can get near any jumps and shoot from a very low angle close to the road to improve the image of height.

If nothing else, experiment. Over a long weekend you will have plenty of chances. Just try to get to stages early so you can walk sections to find the best places to stand.

As for service areas, you are normally kept back behind barriers, but even so, you will still only be 15 metres from the service crews/cars. Here is where you can get some great candid shots.

Of course, you will need your usual rules for shooting in snow (if there is any). Expose for the car rather than the surface. Also practise pre-focusing your lens rather than relying on auto focus.

One thing to note is that on gravel stages you are at a real risk of being hit by flying gravel/rocks. Takes shots of the car coming towards you for sure. But never try to take a shot of a car going away from you unless you are well away for it's axis of travel. I spent two nights is hospital after the 1989 GB Rally after taking a fist sized rock in the side of the head. I also broke my old Canon 650 camera when I passed out and droped it onto rocks :)

For night shots a 550EX *is* man enough for rallying. Pre focus is essential in these situations but you will not be able to shoot head on due to the fact you will only get the lightpods shinning into the lens. At night, a side shot (into a slow corner) or a rear shot (coming out of a corner) is your best plan. But you will need to be standing close.

Once the big boys have gone through the stage (GO Solberg !!). Spend a little time taking some wider shots of the lower runners going through. This will build you practise up for the next stage.

Best thing I have learned from rallying ? Constantly change your angle. Try to always shoot from either well above the road or try to shoot at road level (i.e. not at head level). This gives some really great shots.

For some inspiration, take a look at the extensive galleries on the SWRT (http://www.swrt.com/30804.html) site. Some really good shots here.

Also, it is worth learning how rally cars get around corners at speed. This will give you some inkling as to where to position yourself.

Only other things to note:

1. Do not spend all your time behind the camera, enjoy the event for what it is.
2. Always listen to the marshals, they are there for your safety.
3. Never place yourself somewhere where you cannot easily run away. Rally cars do crash and not always where you would think.
4. Post some pictures when you are done :)

Phew !

Cheers

Ian

[iwatkins]

To add another few things:

In most WRC rounds, cars are sent off into the stage at 2 minute intervals. So if they are all running at the same speed through the stage you should have 2 minutes between each car.

This gives you time to move to a better location nearby, fit a filter, refocus the lens etc. It also gives you time to review shots of the previous car and delete those that are no good.

I think the marshalls still use whistles in Swden (I'm not 100%) to signal the fact a car is coming. Marshalls stand along the stage where spectators can get to. When they hear a car coming they blow a whistle to signal to people further down the stage that a car is coming.

On fast rounds of the WRC, this is your signal to make sure the camera is awake and is pre-focused and up at your eye.

Some shots I got from the Cata rally a few years ago are some of my best rally ones. But I simply couldn't hear the car coming as it was around a very slightly sweeping straight with a large rock formation in the way. I would hear the whistle blow, wait two seconds and I would hold the shutter down for six or seven frames. One of them would catch the car going through, at an estimated 120mph. I used a lot of film at that point on the stage :) Of course, you can do this, but with digital, it isn't costing you anything.

I would advise that you use the camera in continous shooting mode even if you are only taking single shots. Because you never know, a car may go off the road in front of you and you will be able to catch the whole thing happening.

Cheers

Ian

[IndyJeff]

vvizard be prepared to become addicted. I love shooting races. Some tips for shooting......

1. Always pay attention to activity on the track
2. Never turn your back on oncoming traffic
3. If your shooting from the outside of a turn, make sure there is a wall between you and the track...pay extra attention when in this position.
4. If you want some good shots, locate yourself at the end of a turn where they begin to throttle up instead of going into the turn. Experiment with shutter speeds and exposures.
5. Unless your shooting a "fruit can" lense or shooting slow shutter speeds, don't think of a monopod. It restricts the mobility of the camera. I know some will argue with me on this but, I have been doing this for 9 years now and see very few guys with a monopod unless they are hauling around a very large lense.
6. If you don't have a concrete wall in front of you, step back at least 5 feet or so when you are reviewing images. When you hear a car coming, pay attention to the track.
7. If a car is headed in your direction in a slide, don't run away from it, get down behind the wall or, move up track from it. In otherwords, move in the direction of the traffic and not with it. If a car hits, any debris will fly down the track, not back up the track.
8. A 200 lense should be plenty big enough.
9. If a crash occurs, give your business card to an official. Sometimes sanctioning body officials like to look at crash images to see what happened. They appreciate this and it could help you in the future.
10. Set camera on multi frames and shoot multiple frames each time and don't use the servo setting. It slows the camera down.

Most of all, feel safe and be safe. In a battle with a race car, you will lose everytime.

[iwatkins]

IndyJeff,

All great advice and althought WRC and track/oval racing are two totally different sports, surprisingly similar advice. :)

Cheers

Ian

[vvizard]

What to say? _THANKS_ :-D Looks like you guys have shot a couple of rally's =) Yeah, safety is important. We know that up here in Norway. People are working to get a WRC-round up here, but I seriously doubt that will happen. At least they will never ever let people get as close to the track. Safety in sports (and general) is really strict in Norway. Dont know if any of the teams have tobacco-sponsors either, but if they do, they can't use them on a norwegian round either because of our anti-tobacco laws (gee, and some guys wan't an F1-round here =) (good luck ;))

I'm looking at the SWRT-page. This is an enormous resource. They got lots of pictures from this years sweden-rally (and others as well). And just to top it all, they've left the EXIF-data for me to study :) That will help me incredible much I think :)

If this thing is as adictive as I'm afraid it is (and you tell), my economy will turn real bad. If I get hooked on WRC _AND_ "L" I think it'll ruin me =)

But before I start my "L"-addiction. What would you guys recommend me? The 70-200mm f/4L or one of Sigmas respectively 70-200mm or 100-300mm?

I don't know if the Sigma's are weather-sealed, but it really doesn't matter, cause my 10D isn't anyway, and if I have to cover it up in plastic, I might as well cover the lens while at it =)

Anyway, I'm really looking forward to this, and I'll promise to give url to my pics after the rally. I might need an X's drive or something though. Only got a 1GB microdrive, and that will be to little for an entire rally. Heck, it probably won't last one day =)