Flash Modifiers: Which work best for what?

[jcw122]

Hi everyone,

I've read about different flash modifiers, and I know there's very many. I also hear that they all do best in certain situations, and there isn't exactly an all-around solution...

SO in light of that, I'd like to know, What flash modifiers are best for what kinds of indoor situations? I know there's TONS of different modifiers, and it's confusing when someone says x, y, and z modifiers all do well in different situations.

Can anyone shed a bit of light (lol just had to :lol:) on this question? Thanks.

[tim]

I rarely bother with modifiers, I often bounce, or use flash as fill rather than main. I've tried and own the lightsphere 2, a small on-camera soft box, the omnibounce, the Lumiquest 80/20, and probably others i've forgotten about. If I had to choose one modifier something like the flipit or the 80/20 would be my choice.

[Curtis N]

If you're bouncing, it's rare that any of them will give you better results than a properly used 3x5 index card ("properly used" being the operative words). I like the concept of the flip-it, though I haven't tried it.

One of the few devices that doesn't require a bouncing surface (ceiling or wall) is the Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer (the same as the Lumiquest 80/20 w/ white insert). It creates a larger apparent light source and moves it further from the lens. You'll want a camera flip type bracket to use it in vertical orientation, though.

Honestly, if I were building my flash kit one piece at a time, I would invest in a 3x5 card and rubber band, and then save up for a decent flash bracket & sync cord. A bracket will do your flash photographs more good than any of the modifiers.

[tim]

I stopped using my flash bracket as well, except for the few situations where the flash is the main light and there's a wall right behind the subject.

[jcw122]

Thanks guys, the Bracket (Stroboframe Camera Flip) is already on my list for buys, so it's coming in there. I still am worried about quick situations with a zoom in portrait mode w/ it though, since I'd need to manually reset the flash zoom...that would be an annoyance.

[Titus213]

Thanks guys, the Bracket (Stroboframe Camera Flip) is already on my list for buys, so it's coming in there. I still am worried about quick situations with a zoom in portrait mode w/ it though, since I'd need to manually reset the flash zoom...that would be an annoyance.

Not sure what you mean about manually resetting the flash zoom. Using something like a Lumiquest ProMax system (which I do use) your flash head would be straight up. The cameraflip bracket (it's what I use too), would allow the camera to go into portrait mode under the flash, flash staying put in same orientation.

[jcw122]

Not sure what you mean about manually resetting the flash zoom. Using something like a Lumiquest ProMax system (which I do use) your flash head would be straight up. The cameraflip bracket (it's what I use too), would allow the camera to go into portrait mode under the flash, flash staying put in same orientation.

Well, what I mean't was for direct flash situations. The lense and flash zoom coincide, but you need to manually compensate when using a camera-flipping bracket because they aren't in the same orientations (flash coverage inadequate).

Sooo....when your doing more sorts of candid work, or where you'd need to change your lense zoom alot, it would be more difficult to change your flash zoom on the fly, because you'd have to do all the manual compensation.

[Inspired Photography]

Well, what I mean't was for direct flash situations. The lense and flash zoom coincide, but you need to manually compensate when using a camera-flipping bracket because they aren't in the same orientations (flash coverage inadequate).

Sooo....when your doing more sorts of candid work, or where you'd need to change your lense zoom alot, it would be more difficult to change your flash zoom on the fly, because you'd have to do all the manual compensation.

Have you ever actually used a bracket? I can safely say that i have NEVER had a problem with inadequate flash coverage using a bracket in any orientation.

I think i saw a rebel in your sig... with that extra 1.6 crop especially, you won't have anything to worry about.

People often get really caught up in the crap surrounding flash, and never actually try it out themselves.

Forget about the troubles until you experience them yourself, otherwise they will stop you taking photos!

Rob

[tim]

By manually resetting flash zoom I bet whoever posted it (too tired to look) meant they told the flash to light an area covered by, say, a 50mm lens, even though a 24mm lens may have been fitted. Means the centre is illuminated but not the edges. Can be handy outside in near dark if you want to light people but not the ground.

[woffles]

Walls and ceilings work better then any flash modifier out there if you have them available.

[Curtis N]

Walls and ceilings work better then any flash modifier out there if you have them available.Actually, most of the various attachements are designed to be used with bounced flash. By redirecting some of the light straight toward your subject, they create catchlights and fill shadows to give your subject a bit of "pop" without creating that ugly, flat "flashed" look.

The key is getting the right balance, which is easier said than done.

[jcw122]

Have you ever actually used a bracket? I can safely say that i have NEVER had a problem with inadequate flash coverage using a bracket in any orientation.

I think i saw a rebel in your sig... with that extra 1.6 crop especially, you won't have anything to worry about.

People often get really caught up in the crap surrounding flash, and never actually try it out themselves.

Forget about the troubles until you experience them yourself, otherwise they will stop you taking photos!

Rob

No, I've never used one, but I've been researching brackets alot lately.

You could be correct when saying there will be no problems, but what I keep hearing about Camera-rotating brackets is that when you rotate the camera to portrait position, the flash stays in landscape positions. Therefore the upper part of the frame and the lower part are not being covered properly by the flash unit, does that make sense?

[Titus213]

Technically it may make sense. Practically I don't believe it does. At least in the vast majority of shots.

[Curtis N]

If your camera/flash unit combo does not automatically account for the crop factor on autozoom, then you're covered anyway. For example, the flash will zoom to 50mm with a 50mm lens, but on a 1.6 crop camera you're only getting the equivalent of an 80mm filed of view, so the flash will cover it even in the wrong orientation.

Otherwise, it's usually not a big deal. For example if I'm using a 28-75 zoom lens, I'll just manually zoom it to 50mm (which will cover a 31mm lens on a 1.6 crop camera) and leave it alone.

You can experiment with this by shooting a blank wall with a wide lens, zooming the flash manually until you see the edges get dark. This should give you some idea of how much room for error you have.

[Inspired Photography]

No, I've never used one, but I've been researching brackets alot lately.

You could be correct when saying there will be no problems, but what I keep hearing about Camera-rotating brackets is that when you rotate the camera to portrait position, the flash stays in landscape positions. Therefore the upper part of the frame and the lower part are not being covered properly by the flash unit, does that make sense?

I get what you mean, and see where you are coming from.
I use the Stroboframe Pro-RL which is a camera rotator, and don't have any problems.

All i am saying is try it and see for yourself before worrying about it. If there is a REAL problem with something, Canon are usually quick to rescue... afterall, they have been building cameras for longer than most have been shooting them.

(I do realise that Canon won't address all problems, but if there was a BIG one, nobody would buy Canons any more).

Rob

[ChopstickHero]

i usually use my stofen omnibounce and get great results.

i use my lumiquest mini softbox when there is no ceiling/walls to bounce (like at an indoor car show) or when i want to get up closer to my subject.

i don't have a flash bracket, but i'm looking into getting one.

[jrsforums]

No, I've never used one, but I've been researching brackets alot lately.

You could be correct when saying there will be no problems, but what I keep hearing about Camera-rotating brackets is that when you rotate the camera to portrait position, the flash stays in landscape positions. Therefore the upper part of the frame and the lower part are not being covered properly by the flash unit, does that make sense?

I think your "fears" are unwarranted....

Some insight from the Newton Camera Brackets site:

"...Horizontal Flash Head - When Newton brackets rotate the flash to vertical position the flash head stays in the horizontal position even though the camera is in the vertical format. Many photographers are concerned that this will cause light fall off. Let me assure you that under normal conditions it will not make any difference. A wide angle lens might cause some fall off but not too many photographers shoot vertical customers with a wide angle lens. If you do use a wide angle lens use a diffuser or bounce flash to get the coverage you need. The advantage of leaving the flash in this position is that the head can be tilted up or bounce systems can be attached and used. Your flash was designed to be mounted in this position and not laying on its side. When laying on its side the weight of the flash with batteries will cause damage to the flash foot and contacts..."

[jcw122]

I think your "fears" are unwarranted....

Some insight from the Newton Camera Brackets site:

"...Horizontal Flash Head - When Newton brackets rotate the flash to vertical position the flash head stays in the horizontal position even though the camera is in the vertical format. Many photographers are concerned that this will cause light fall off. Let me assure you that under normal conditions it will not make any difference. A wide angle lens might cause some fall off but not too many photographers shoot vertical customers with a wide angle lens. If you do use a wide angle lens use a diffuser or bounce flash to get the coverage you need. The advantage of leaving the flash in this position is that the head can be tilted up or bounce systems can be attached and used. Your flash was designed to be mounted in this position and not laying on its side. When laying on its side the weight of the flash with batteries will cause damage to the flash foot and contacts..."



Big assurance there. Thanks jrsforums!

[Curtis N]

Most of what the Newton site says makes sense, and as I mentioned it's easy enough to test on a blank wall. But this part is pure garbage:Your flash was designed to be mounted in this position and not laying on its side. When laying on its side the weight of the flash with batteries will cause damage to the flash foot and contacts..."Do they think that if you mount your flash on the hotshoe you should never take a vertical shot out of fear of damaging your flash? :rolleyes: