Having Problems with Action Mode

[gymmom]

I just got the Canon Digital Rebel and it works great except when in Action Mode. I am using it mostly to take pictures at my son's gymnastics meets and bought it specifically because of the action mode. I have checked through the book and tried everything and when in the action mode, the pictures come up blurry and out-of-focus. Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone know if there's something I missed when reading the manual? Thanks so much!

Gymmom

[PacAce]

gymmom wrote:
I just got the Canon Digital Rebel and it works great except when in Action Mode. I am using it mostly to take pictures at my son's gymnastics meets and bought it specifically because of the action mode. I have checked through the book and tried everything and when in the action mode, the pictures come up blurry and out-of-focus. Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone know if there's something I missed when reading the manual? Thanks so much!

Gymmom
When the camera is set to Action mode, it is automatically set to AI Servo mode. In this mode,it'll be possible to release the shutter even without a focus lock confirmation. So, what you'll have to do is half press the shutter button in advance of actually taking the picture to give the camera a chance to lock in on the subject and get it in focus. Once focus is achieved, the camera will lock in on the subject and give you a confirmation beep. As long as you have the shutter button half pressed, it will then automatically track the subject.

[robertwgross]

First of all, you might want to experiment until you can distinguish between motion-blur and out-of-focus. That will help you narrow down the solutions. Further, you want to make a note of the shutter speed and aperture that your sports mode is selecting for you.

If you get much more light on the subject, then that should allow the sports mode to select a slightly faster shutter speed, which might help IF motion blur is the problem. How would you get more light on the subject? Use a big flash. Use any flash and get closer. Pick a different angle so that ambient room/gym lighting is better, like closer to windows or open doors.

Out-of-focus can be tricky. If you are trying to shoot at a subject at ten feet, but the wall at twenty feet is in focus, then that means something. The autofocus mechanism takes a split second to work once you have half-pressed the button, but it can be slightly quicker if you pre-focus. That is, half-press to allow the autofocus to close in on the target point. Then, when the subject enters the target point, the camera is already ready.

---Bob Gross---

[ilya]

There is also the possibility of a shaky pair of hands, which would also be corrected by faster shutter speed if light permits (if not, and/or can increase ISO). What lens are you using? Are you using a 'pod. The general rule is that your shutter speed should not be less then the inverse of the focal length, i.e. @ 50mm you should be at 1/50 or faster; and so on.

[gymmom]

Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions. I'm thinking it has to be a setting or something that I'm not doing right because in all the other "modes" the pictures turn out great. The pictures at the gymnastics meet have to be taken with no flash...would that affect any blurry spots? Also...I've used the lens that came with it (18-55, I believe) and I also have a 75-300 lense that I purchased for the meets also. With both lenses, I have these problems. Thanks!

Gymmom

[Motorsports Photo]

If I remember right, action mode defaults to the highest shutter speed it can use. However since you are indoors the highest speed is, well, not very high.

You can use Tv and also go for an underexposure, and correct it later with "Levels." This might be enough to get some good sharp pics for you.

-Pete
(Shooting in the dark until next spring)

[defordphoto]

/Me thinks GymMom needs a 550EX for shooting those indoor gym shots.

[PacAce]

Motorsports Photo wrote:
If I remember right, action mode defaults to the highest shutter speed it can use. However since you are indoors the highest speed is, well, not very high.

You can use Tv and also go for an underexposure, and correct it later with "Levels." This might be enough to get some good sharp pics for you.

-Pete
(Shooting in the dark until next spring)



And the added benefit of switching to Tv is that you can also increase the ISO from 400 (default of Action Mode) to 800 or even 1600 which will give you another stop or two of aperture and/or shutter speed.

[Andy_T]

Hi,

an easy test:

- set the camera to 'T' mode
- set the ISO to 1600

- Try different shutter speeds (1/25-"slow", 1/50, 1/100, 1/200, 1/500, 1/1000-"fast" etc.) and see, who they work out on your PC

Common understanding is that you should select at least 1/125 shutter speed on the 18-55 when fully zoomed in or 1/500 when using the 300 mm zoom. Maybe faster if you can not hold the camera very steady or if you are photographing fast moving subjects.

See whether the photos are better now! Above 1/250, they should at least should not be blurred any longer.

Depending on how dark it really is in that gym, the light might still not be sufficient. (Your camera should tell you that)

Downside of ISO 1600 is that the colours are not so vibrant and that you get a lot of 'noise'. This means that if you might find tiny 'dots' in the finished picture, and it looks 'coarse' on the PC. By getting down the ISO to 800 and 400 you can reduce this effect.

Regards,
Andy

[Andy_T]

addition...

If the pictures are still too dark, you might need a faster lens (e.g. the 1.8/50). This lens lets more light into the camera (1.8 is lower than 3.5), so you can use a shorter shutter speed with the same available light.

Another thing ... that 75-300 lens you got, is it an 75-300 IS lens?

IS (Image stabilizer) corrects your camera shake, so you can take a sharp picture with 1/50 instead of 1/250 - but ONLY OF A NON-MOVING OBJECT. If the object moves (like in sports), it doesn't help at all, the picture will be blurred.

Regards,
Andy

[lime]

If it's motion blur & you've pushed the ISO as high as you can, then you'll probably need a fast lens, at least a f2.8 or faster.
Not knowing your budget or how close you are to the action, look into a 85 1.8, 100 2.0 or 135L 2.0. These are very capable indoor/low-light lenses.
The 75-300IS is probably not fast enough, like somebody else said, IS is to help with camera shake but is not helpful stopping action.
A link for more info about these lenses:
http://www.wlcastleman.com/equip/reviews/85_100_135/index.htm

Here's one with a 10D & 135L 2.0
http://www.pbase.com/image/18934734.jpg