CAMERA SETTINGS for sports ??

[gherrry]

What is your settings when shooting for sport?

WHITE BALACE?
METER MODE?
FOCUS MODE?
(do you use CF4 =1?)
etc. . .
etc. . .

[CliffordPhotography]

are you shooting in a bright indoor arena. high school gym, out doors, what sports, day or night. it very for every event, but you need to be more specific to what your shooting in order to get any decent answer.

[markgardner]

'when shooting for sport?' - is a very generic question.

[gherrry]

hmmm. . . good point. . .
Well then lets shoot for which ever time YOU shoot sports? night or day AND we'll take it one more step. . . and go with the more common sport that people have issues with. . . football (US)

[emurph2]

For night Varsity FB games I've been shooting at 1/500, f/1.8 and ISO-1600, generically speaking. I think I have a harder time during the day with FB. I never know if I should try to isolate one athlete or keep a bit more in focus because there might be some really good action going on around the focal point. I'd love to hear what other do during the day.

[MazerRakhm]

gherrry,

I'm really at a loss for what you are trying to accomplish here. Sports shooting can have a lot of different settings; especially when considering every venue or situation is different.

You mention American football, are you asking about day or night, indoor or outdoor?

Or are you trying looking for just a list of settings in general; which I actually think would only be useful as a very loose baseline because what might work for one set of equipment in a certain set of conditions isn't going to work at another venue.

I think you might get a better response if you convey exactly what you're looking for better.

[primoz]

There are few basic things and there are few things which depends on particular sport. For me basic things are always same... this means manual metering, ai servo, cfn4-3. Af point selection depends on composition and sport, so does white balance settings.
What else? Oh yeah one thing... Custom functions and personal functions are there with reason... to set camera so as it suits your work best. Not to set it so as I have it, but so that you will get the most out of camera. So try and find out what suits you best. That "famous" page with SI settings is just "beginers guide" and definitely not rule how to set camera. Some of settings are same as I have, but some are such that they just doesn't fit the way I work. And beauty of custom and personal functions is exactly in this, that they allow you to get camera optimized for your way of working.
PS: Same thing goes for all other basics and not so basic stuff about which I wrote on begining. You have to find what suits you best. Maybe for your sport or your style of shooting you need completely different af or mettering settings then I do. So only you can tell what works best for you.

[davidmigl]

^^These guys have a good point - you must find what works best for you - your conditions, your style, your equipment, etc.

That being said,
I shoot M if the lighting is constant (clear sunny day, indoor gym) or AV if the lighting is changing (cloudy day with the sun coming in and out, sunset, etc...).
For sports, focus is always AI Servo.
If the light will be consistent, I'll shoot a white piece of paper and set the custom white balance off that. If I can't, no worries, I'll just correct it in PP since I always shoot RAW.
Usually center point AF.
Minimum/preferred shutter speed of 1/500 sec. To achieve that, I set the aperture wide open (unless the lens I'm using is drastically better, say, 2/3 stop from wide open), and then up the ISO.


So, for the two sports I shoot....
Volleyball - 85mm f/1.8, "M" mode, custom WB, center AF, f/2.2 ISO 1600 1/500sec (these work well in our home gym).

Football - during the day, ISO 200 or 400, open up the aperture to somewhere around max to get a shutter speed of 1/1250-1/2000 on a nice sunny day. AV if the light's changing. For night, a 2.8 lens will barely do, usually on ISO 1600 f/2.8 and speeds around 1/320-1/500 (AV)

[gherrry]

gherrry,

I'm really at a loss for what you are trying to accomplish here. Sports shooting can have a lot of different settings; especially when considering every venue or situation is different.

You mention American football, are you asking about day or night, indoor or outdoor?

Or are you trying looking for just a list of settings in general; which I actually think would only be useful as a very loose baseline because what might work for one set of equipment in a certain set of conditions isn't going to work at another venue.

I think you might get a better response if you convey exactly what you're looking for better.


I'm really just trying to get a baseline of what others are using. As for US Football (like High School), i use this sport because it is fast paced and there is a lot of users who are always asking about lenses and so forth, i have not found a thread yet that delves into what settings they are using on their camera. So if to change the question then it would be like this -

SITUATION =
HIGH SCHOOL FOOTBALL (note which you shoot NIGHT or DAY?)
OUTDOORS (usually how most HS football is played)
WHITE BALANCE = ?
METERING = ?
FOCAL POINT = ?
CUSTOM FUNC = ?
SHOOTING MODE = ?
etc... etc. .

[Sterling30D]

So, for the two sports I shoot....
Volleyball - 85mm f/1.8, "M" mode, custom WB, center AF, f/2.2 ISO 1600 1/500sec (these work well in our home gym).


Wow, I'd love to be able to set my shutter speed to 1/500. In the gyms I shoot in I only seem to be able to set my shutter speed to 1/250 max which sucks. I usually use the 85mm f/1.8. I leave the aperature wide open at f/1.8 and set the ISO to either 1600 or H and still only seem to be able to set my shutter speed to 1/250. Anything more and images are underexposed. although Cecilc has opened my eyes and made me realize that an underexposed shot that is sharpley focused isn't as bad as a properly exposed shot that is blurred.

[gherrry]

Wow, I'd love to be able to set my shutter speed to 1/500. In the gyms I shoot in I only seem to be able to set my shutter speed to 1/250 max which sucks. I usually use the 85mm f/1.8. I leave the aperature wide open at f/1.8 and set the ISO to either 1600 or H and still only seem to be able to set my shutter speed to 1/250. Anything more and images are underexposed. although Cecilc has opened my eyes and made me realize that an underexposed shot that is sharpley focused isn't as bad as a properly exposed shot that is blurred.

it could be that there is more light in the gym she shoots in.;)

[Sterling30D]

it could be that there is more light in the gym she shoots in.;)

Yeah, it must be nice. LOL. :lol:

[cecilc]

... an underexposed shot that is sharpley focused isn't as bad as a properly exposed shot that is blurred.

I also added that you would have to do some post-processing on that underexposed image .... I wouldn't leave it in it's underexposed state ......

[Sterling30D]

I also added that you would have to do some post-processing on that underexposed image .... I wouldn't leave it in it's underexposed state ......


:lol: :lol: :lol: I guess I did forget to mention that :lol: :lol: :lol: . I just figured everyone would assume that post processing would be needed. BTW Cecil, thank you for all the good advise.

[Tandem]

I always shoot RAW, use CF4-3, AI servo, center focus, and AWB.

The high school gyms I've been in have all been the same - I use the 50 or 85mm and shoot manual at ISO 3200, f/2.2, and 1/500s. If I found a darker gym, I wouldn't hesitate going to f/1.8 in order to keep the shutter speed up. Getting the exposure right helps Neat Image do a better job in PP.

For field sports I use the 400mm f/2.8 on a 5D and a 70-200mm f/2.8 on a 1D Mk IIN. I have both set the same; when I change one I change the other one, too.

The lighting at night has been the same at every field. I shoot manual at ISO 3200, f/2.8 and 1/500s.

For daytime I'm using Av mode and f/3.2 with enough ISO to give me a 1/1000s speed. If the sun is setting or heavy clouds are rolling in I'll use a faster speed and when I notice it's getting around 1/640s, I'll boost the ISO. That way I try to keep ahead of the changing light. Once I hit ISO 3200 I start thinking about going to manual mode. The only problem with going full-time manual mode is that I'm easily distracted and can shoot a series of shots with the wrong exposure.

I've been experimenting with exposure compensation. I have a soccer field with dark foliage all around. If I have bright uniforms there, I'm decrease the EC. On the other hand if I have dark clouds overhead and a bright horizon, I'll increase the EC. I'm still working out the amounts to use. As long as I'm close enough that I don't blow out any highlights in the uniforms I can correct in PP.

[Screamer]

Here are the settings that Sports Illustrated photogs use

http://www.siphoto.com

[SkipD]

What is your settings when shooting for sport?

WHITE BALACE?
METER MODE?
FOCUS MODE?
(do you use CF4 =1?)
etc. . .
etc. . .I hope I don't sound like a gruff old bugger, but this question is no different than asking "What settings do you use to take photographs?". It is a question for which there is truly no answer without a lot of definition for each individual situation.

While there are camera settings like "RAW vs .JPG" or the CF4=1, neither of which will probably ever be changed once the owner adapts to the setup, every photographic situation one runs into will require different exposure settings for a variety of reasons.

Rather than trying to compile a list of exposure settings (ISO, shutter speed, and aperture), focal lengths, etc., for a variety of situations, one should take the time to LEARN THE BASICS. After learning the basics, you will understand why you would choose different shutter speeds, apertures, etc., and not just what settings Joe Blow would choose (whether or not Joe understands why HE uses the settings).

[cecilc]

I hope I don't sound like a gruff old bugger, ...

Nope, you don't ....
But if someone says you do, then I'll have to be included in that accusation, too ....

Because I agree with your "reading" of the OP's question .... but for the life of me I couldn't come up with as tactful a response as you have ....

But, in line with your suggestion on learning the basics, I can recommend a good book that the OP can start with: "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson.

[gherrry]

Here are the settings that Sports Illustrated photogs use

http://www.siphoto.com

great info SCREAMER.

[SilentL]

There are few basic things and there are few things which depends on particular sport. For me basic things are always same... this means manual metering, ai servo, cfn4-3. Af point selection depends on composition and sport, so does white balance settings.

I was trying to use cfn4-3 and couldn't figure how to?

[primoz]

Basically you are pressing (or holding) back * button instead of shutter release if you want camera to focus. For me it's easier to do it this way, since I don't lose (stop) tracking between shoots... especially since 1d is able to focus even when shutter is open.
And when not shooting sport it's easier for me to recompose this way, but that's just how I got used to work.

[joeflux]

Basically you are pressing (or holding) back * button instead of shutter release if you want camera to focus. For me it's easier to do it this way, since I don't lose (stop) tracking between shoots... especially since 1d is able to focus even when shutter is open.
And when not shooting sport it's easier for me to recompose this way, but that's just how I got used to work.

How do you hold the * as you follow but then say a ref and a blocker get in your way, do you let go * so that you can pass those obstructs and then press it again to follow your subject once again. Or do you keep * pressed the whole time even if objects get in your way?

[tghaines]

I just got my 1DN yesterday and reading this post has been great.

Is it as "simple" as sitting down the day before you shoot and running through the settings to get what you think will work best, then try it??

I get the impression you pro dudes would have a recipe (starting point) for the various types of shooting you do. Again, just a starting point. So before you shoot soccer or what ever, you can load the recipe and you're close to where you want to be?

Am I on the right track?

PS - Love the 1DN. What a step up from the 20D!!!!. Can't wait to shoot this weekend.:D :D :D :D

[SkipD]

I just got my 1DN yesterday and reading this post has been great.

Is it as "simple" as sitting down the day before you shoot and running through the settings to get what you think will work best, then try it??

I get the impression you pro dudes would have a recipe (starting point) for the various types of shooting you do. Again, just a starting point. So before you shoot soccer or what ever, you can load the recipe and you're close to where you want to be?

Am I on the right track?Someday I'll get a 1-series body, but for now the 20D will suffice :rolleyes: .

Anyhow - I almost never change any of the internal settings on my body. I operate in manual exposure mode most of the time. I always shoot in RAW plus Large JPG. The only thing that I usually will change that I would call a "setting" (other than ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture) is the White Balance setting.

I will often photograph a reference card (Kodak 18% Gray Card) or a Gretag MacBeth color reference card in one shot of a series so that I can do critical color matching if necesary.

Exposure settings will sometimes be calculated with the camera's meter, and just about as often I will use my handheld meter ( Sekonic L-358 ). Obviously, I will make judgements as to what shutter speed to use vs aperture vs ISO setting, but I don't go into a shoot with "pre-determined" values in mind unless I'm going to shoot something in a very familiar place where I have worked out an optimum setup before.

[primoz]

1d has custom function for exactly this thing. With this custom function you can change sensitivity (or better to say speed) of af to obstacles. With this you can tell camera how fast it switches focus from object you are tracking to obstacle which comes between camera and tracked object.

[SkipD]

What I was saying in my previous post was not that I leave all the settings to factory default, but I have carefully chosen what Custom Functions and other settings that I want to use. After having done that once, I typically will not change them for any particular shoot.

The internal settings are a way to "customize" the camera. Once customized, I leave it that way. Having the camera work the same way every time I take it out makes mistakes less likely.

[joeflux]

1d has custom function for exactly this thing. With this custom function you can change sensitivity (or better to say speed) of af to obstacles. With this you can tell camera how fast it switches focus from object you are tracking to obstacle which comes between camera and tracked object.

Thanks Primoz. I currently have the 10D and I don't have that nice feature. Shooting NFL I did not seem to have too many problems when the ref got in the way, it seemed to keep tracking the player.

However, shooting with a 35-350mm 3.5/5.6 at 350mm I did lose focus a few times and the camera would not find the subject at 50 yards away and I missed some shots. It got very annoying. Can't wait to do enough NFL to buy the 1dmkIIn and this week I might get the 70-200 f/2.8 Might be the IS or not the IS, I still can't decide! Mostly for sports so I don't need it there, but I still want to take family shots so I might need the IS for that. Who knows, $700 extra is a lot.

[primoz]

I had same decission to make few years ago. I went with non-IS version. I don't need IS for my work so about $500 less for non-IS was right decision for me, and I never regret it. But that's for me, so for yourself only you can tell if it's worth or not :)