Warm Polarizer ~ Moose filter

[Whaler]

Dumb question: If you place the aforementioned filter on a digital camera, won't the white balance try to compensate for the additional color/warmth?

Thanx

Mike

[Belmondo]

As I understand things, if you have AWB 'on,', then it will.
If you manually set the white balance, it won't.


Interesting question.

[defordphoto]

Just acquiring a couple of CP's I will definitely have to perfom some tests. Yes, interesting...

[Scottes]

I'm not sure that I even understand why one would use a warming filter with a digital camera, given that it's trivial to set this when converting RAW.

OK, change that to "...if shooting RAW..." - a warming filter would make sense if you shoot JPG I guess. (Even still, it's pretty trivial to use an Adjustment Layer to add warmth.) So if one shoots JPG and doesn't do any developing - or wants to lessen developing time - then using a warming filter would make sense.

Is this correct? Can anyone offer any other reasons?

[iwatkins]

scottes wrote:
Is this correct? Can anyone offer any other reasons?


I think you are right. Any warm up or cool down needed can be done in post process. That of course assumes you want to do any post process. :)

I do use a circ pol. (but not a warm up one) a lot and leave the camera on AWB in RAW mode and add/take warmth at post process stage.

However, it is very difficult to add the effect of a circ pol in post process though. :)

Only filters I use these days are circ pol and some graduated NDs. Just about everything else can be added during post process.

Cheers

Ian

[scottbergerphoto]

I shoot Raw, Adobe RGB, and use a B+W CPL with my 16-35 2.8L to shoot landscapes. It is not negated by the White Balance(Automatic or Daylight). I challenge you to produce the same results in post processing. It is well worth the additional cost if you like deep blue skies.
Scott

[defordphoto]

Scott, I don't think it was being suggested that it was being negated, but maybe over-compensated a little. And that's a big maybe.

[Scottes]

I highly doubt that one could reproduce the effects of a polarizer in post-processing. But that's not a challenge - I'd be very interested if someone could decribe how to post-process and significantly reduce glare and the like.

But the warming filter's effects could easily be done in post-processing.

[scottbergerphoto]

OK that's it! Pistols at Dawn!
Just kidding. Happy New Year!
Scott

[Belmondo]

Okay, I think it's time you two just give it up and go have a drink. It's New Years, and this is not a time for sober contemplation.

Actually, it's not a time for sober anything.!

Happy New year.

Thos.

[Whaler]

My thread has been "HIJACKED". I think the answer I'm getting is; use a regular polarizer then use software. Thanx I ju$t $aved $ome $money$ on a polarizer.

[Scottes]

whaler wrote:
My thread has been "HIJACKED". I think the answer I'm getting is; use a regular polarizer then use software. Thanx I ju$t $aved $ome $money$ on a polarizer.

Yes, but make sure it's a circular polarizer if you wish to autofocus.


There! I've un-hijacked this thread before the other Scott could. That scalliwag! I got him, huh?

:)

[scottbergerphoto]

scottes wrote:
whaler wrote:
My thread has been "HIJACKED". I think the answer I'm getting is; use a regular polarizer then use software. Thanx I ju$t $aved $ome $money$ on a polarizer.

Yes, but make sure it's a circular polarizer if you wish to autofocus.


There! I've un-hijacked this thread before the other Scott could. That scalliwag! I got him, huh?

:)
Sorry for the hijack. Scott is correct. You need a good circular polarizer. B+W is my choice.
Happy New Year,
Scott

[Whaler]

Thanx guys,

I just ordered a B&W Cir HMC (ouch) from B & H. While I've got your attention, I've got a couple of questions;

1. In the old days (20 yrs ago), a lens always performed (theoretically) it's best at the middle f stop. Example, if the highest f stop of a lens was f22 the lens would perform (optically) its best at f11. Does this still hold true?

Any advise on digital night shooting? I will be shooting from a hilltop at city lights. In the old days of film I would have set the f stop then choose "B" for the shutter speed expose for 5 seconds and bracket up to let's say 1 minute. Is this still a good methodology?

Mike