Canon EOS FD Macro Project

[Lightstream]

Welcome to the home of the EOS FD Macro Project :)

The aim of this is to give us a cheap, affordable macro lens that can be stopped down. Unlike other alternatives, say, macro reversing rings, or 'dumb' extension tubes, the EOS FD Macro aims to offer some degree of aperture control. One most definitely needs to stop down, DOF is a big problem with macro.

This project involves some serious lens hacking and you take ALL responsibility for any consequences which may arise as the result of the use of this advice. You're going to risk mangling a lens and extension tubes severely should anything go wrong. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY OR ALL DAMAGE THAT MAY OCCUR TO YOUR HARDWARE, INCLUDING CAMERA BODY AS WELL AS THE LENS AND ADAPTERS USED IN THIS PROJECT. THE RISK OF SUCH DAMAGE IS SIGNIFICANT.

At least it is a cheap lens.. $15 FD 50 1.8 here. You will need one of them, plus a set of dumb $20 extension tubes. They are not the finest quality, I have seen coke cans built tougher, but they will do. If all goes well, you will be out of pocket all of $40.

Unfortunately, it was discovered halfway through that the Canon FD lenses I wanted to adapt DO NOT have full manual apertures. You dial the aperture in, and the body stops it down for you. I never actually succeeded in getting it to work.

Worse, the FD lenses require that the lens be mounted before the aperture lever is unlocked. You can't even twiddle the lever with your fingers.

I got around this without buying a lens cap by disassembling the bayonet mount from the bottom of the lens, and somehow, it unlocked the aperture lever. Unfortunately, it also permanently screwed up the aperture ring, which won't move past f/8 now. Not like this is actually a problem - the aperture ring didn't work as expected in the first place anyway! But I did warn you, you can easily screw up a lens.

Now, the cheap macro tubes. These actually screw into each other. It's not a bayonet mount, it's literally screw it on with threads. Alignment of the EOS FD Macro will therefore not be crucial, you will not need to line up the red dots. The macro tubes don't even line up with each other.

http://pix.lightrefineries.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=972&g2_serialNumber=2

There is one end of the macro tube with the EOS mount. Now mix 2-part epoxy, apply liberally. You're going to superglue the FD lens to the EOS part of the extension tubes.

http://pix.lightrefineries.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=966&g2_serialNumber=2

Waiting for glue to dry is not very exciting, however my chosen epoxy hardens in six hours. Couldn't find my favorite Loctite 2-part 5-minute (the bond strength of that stuff is pretty amazing too). Will take a nap now (am tired, hence the bad photography and direct flash) and the project will continue tomorrow.

http://pix.lightrefineries.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=969&g2_serialNumber=2

EOS macro tube mount glued to the FD lens. What's the stuff in the center? Cling wrap. Put some on the inner element, because I am concerned that certain kinds of epoxy tend to 'fog' optical components. The worst offenders are the cyanoacrylates, but I am not taking any chances.

PLEASE ENSURE ADHESIVES ARE COMPLETELY CURED PRIOR TO MOUNTING THIS MODIFIED LENS. Fumes and chemicals from curing adhesives CAN SEVERELY DAMAGE YOUR CAMERA BODY'S OPTICAL COMPONENTS. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS WHICH COME WITH YOUR CHOSEN ADHESIVE.

We will know in a while whether all is good. There is one more step, which involves jamming the aperture lever in stopped down position. A pain, but we'll get there.

.. to be continued

[Hermeto]

Hmm, interesting!
Waiting for Part II..

[Lightstream]

An alternative to the FD lens while retaining full aperture control and NOT having to resort to superglue would be to buy one of the other nice 50mm primes that have EOS adapters AND manual aperture control. I assumed the FD's were like most other M42 screwmount lenses which have been used with no problems, well looks like I was wrong. I have no idea which lenses have manual aperture and I'm totally unwilling to speculate at this point, so that's research you'll have to do yourself.

However, you pay for the priviledge... the price goes up to $50 or more for the lenses and $20 for the adapter, more than double the cost of this little experiment so far.

[CoolToolGuy]

I know there is a way to get the aperture control, but I just couldn't bring it back into my head from way back then. The simple answer is to simulate the DOF preview capabilities of the FD lenses, which is done by sliding the lever on the back of the lens while it is on the camera. Sliding the lever may be a slight challenge, but the "on the camera" part can be simulated by using an FD rear lens cap with its bottom cut out. This was a tactic used by the folks who did this, and then they called it a "macro hood" as well.

Hope this helps.

Have Fun,

[Lightstream]

OK... I let the macro sit for 20+ hours anyway, since I am busy with the usual stuff today. By then the glue is good and hard. This Araldite stuff is pretty impressive, it bonds very well. BTW, a note to folks doing this project - I generally prefer two-part epoxies. These can be made stronger since they don't harden in the tube, you have to mix them prior to application. Get the syringe dispenser if you can, it makes it easier to squeeze out equal parts. Bought my favorite Loctite 5-minute in two separate tubes (I was stupid in those days, and didn't know better). I've learned well from my other projects, it seems.

A toothpick is good for mixing small quantities of this stuff, as I have learned, and they are disposable. They are also good for applying it.

PLEASE ENSURE ADHESIVES ARE COMPLETELY CURED PRIOR TO MOUNTING THIS MODIFIED LENS. Fumes and chemicals from curing adhesives CAN SEVERELY DAMAGE YOUR CAMERA BODY'S OPTICAL COMPONENTS.

This particular epoxy says it will bond in 6 hours and completely cure in 3 days. After 20 hours, I decided to quickly mount it and take a few proof shots, I will let it continue curing for few more days or so before putting it into production use. Please read the directions that come with your adhesives, they are not there for fun!! (remember the stuff at hardware stores are generally not toys)

Oh, and one more thing. The macro tubes I have, have a locking pin for the EOS lens on the side of the mount. This pin is spring loaded and thus will raise the adapter up a little bit. While the epoxy seems to have cured well, there is a gap (no light leaks though) which weakens the mechanical strength of the bond. You will want to place something heavy on top of the lens (again bearing in mind the fogging from the curing epoxy, so make sure it's nothing important, like a cardboard box you want to throw away or something), or remove the locking pin before you start this modification. The pin is useless on the modified lens anyway.

As for stopping down the lens, you need to fashion some kind of object to wedge the aperture lever in place. I just stuck a ball of paper in there. :D

With that out of the way, here are the pics:

http://pix.lightrefineries.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=981&g2_serialNumber=2

http://pix.lightrefineries.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=984&g2_serialNumber=2

Here are the RESULTS:

http://pix.lightrefineries.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=975&g2_serialNumber=2

The little golden medallion (well, it WAS the most convenient subject! :D) is slightly larger than a US quarter (25 cent coin, for other international readers). This first picture was taken with nothing but the EOS adapter, the shortest possible combination of all the macro tubes. You'll work it out when you get your set.

http://pix.lightrefineries.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=978&g2_serialNumber=2

This is the second image, taken with tube 3 (the longest tube) attached. These are NOT cropped in any way, which means with the full size image, you can get EVEN closer. Additionally, if you need even closer than that, you can use the other two tubes which I have not attached.. this is way beyond 1:1 magnification already!

I am genuinely impressed with the optical quality of a $15 legacy lens leftover from Canon's FD days, and a cheap set of $20 macro tubes. They're flimsy, but they work. Also, be careful and handle your newly adapted 50mm lens by the EOS part of the mount (the one that's glued on). Excess twisting force applied to the lens itself can weaken or break the epoxy bond. You could always glue it back sure, but it's inconvenient.

Autofocus will not work, of course. I simply moved the whole setup back and forth until it appears focused in the viewfinder and shoot. The 350D's onboard flash was used for illumination of these shots, set to 1/200 and aperture 00 (cannot be detected) in manual mode.

[Jon]

The original (aluminum breech-lock mount) FD lenses have a manual lock for the aperture control lever; you just slide it all the way closed and it'll lock there. Most third-party FD-mount lenses function the same way. The newer (pseudo-bayonet mount) FD lenses required a little widget that would lock the aperture control in the stopped-down position.

Why not just get regular FD tubes and pick up one of the EOS-FD adapters, sans glass, that are out there. The disadvantage of them for normal use is that they won't let you focus to infinity; if you're shooting for macro that becomes an asset. Or, of course, get one of the various other lens types that do allow infinity focus and manual aperture control on the lens.

[Lester Wareham]

Still got all my FD stuff including the 50mm f1.8, not a bad little lens, this was the kit lens of the day.

In the old days the best way to get a cheap manual stopdown macro lens is to mount an enlarger lens, the adaptors for this are probably easily availble. An advantage of this techneque is an enlarger lens is deisigned for a close subject range and will have well corrected aberations at that range.

[Jon]

Enlarger lenses are Leica thread (39 mm). There used to be T-mount and T-flange (reverse of T-mount) adapters in this. I had a batch from Spiratone when I was equipment hacking.

[Lester Wareham]

I know there is a way to get the aperture control, but I just couldn't bring it back into my head from way back then. The simple answer is to simulate the DOF preview capabilities of the FD lenses, which is done by sliding the lever on the back of the lens while it is on the camera. Sliding the lever may be a slight challenge, but the "on the camera" part can be simulated by using an FD rear lens cap with its bottom cut out. This was a tactic used by the folks who did this, and then they called it a "macro hood" as well.

Hope this helps.

Have Fun,

Yes that is right. It was common in those days to reverse mount a wide angle lens to take advantage of the high magnification the short focal length would give along with slightly more working distance due to the retrofocus design.

Canon used to sell a reverse mount hood for this, and a little bit of plastic to hold the stopdown leaver closed.