Help with flash and braket

[AlexMa]

Hello All:

Shot with 20D and 580EX with a CB Flash bracket in port position. Flash was prob in 45 positon with bounce card pulled out.

Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/160
Av( Aperture Value )
3.2
ISO Speed
100

120764

My problem is:
the bottom of the photo.

Is the due to the position of the flash?

What should be the position of the flash?

I have it pointed foward slightly, I think I need to push it a little more.


I need advice from the pro's

Thanks!

[gcobb]

Lumiquest Promax System. I needed a good diffuser, this one was recommended and I am glad I got it.

[AlexMa]

Gcobb,

Thanks for responding.............

I was looking for responses more from the "flash bracket" user end not the diffuser users.

I have herd good things about the "Lumiquest Promax System". When I first got my flashes, I got the stofen, it's o k.

I just got my bracket a few weeks back............

At least the image can be saved with a "nice" crop.

[bgphotoo]

I use a stroboframe it keeps the strobe on top of the lens when you shoot horizonal and vertical. http://www.tiffen.com/products.html?tablename=stroboframe

[AlexMa]

What angle do you have your flash at?

I'm sure it's pointed slighly foward..................isn't it?

[bgphotoo]

Yes, but if its too bright you can use a defuser.

[AlexMa]

what about a faster SS?

[bgphotoo]

I don't know, I like a slower SS to bring out the background.

[AlexMa]

All sounds good...............

I think my problem was the the angle of the flash.

head on the flash would have been pretty harsh.

[Yella Fella]

I use a stroboframe it keeps the strobe on top of the lens when you shoot horizonal and vertical. http://www.tiffen.com/products.html?tablename=stroboframe

that stroboframe with rotating bracket seems quite useful, how much?

Not sure how good that will be compared to my promax system

[Curtis N]

Photos like this are the reason I generally recommend against angling the flash head. In some circumstances it can make the top of the image brighter than the bottom.

If you're bouncing the flash, point it straight up. The idea is to light up the ceiling. Pull out the wide angle diffuser in the flash to light up a large area of the ceiling.

If you want to provide catchlights and some direct illumination, use the catchlight card in the 580EX, or an index card, Lumiquest 80/20 or Flip-It attachment.

The Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce is the exception. You can angle it forward to adjust the ratio of bounced vs. direct light.

[bgphotoo]

The promax is a defuser right? If you have any problem with shadows stroboframe might help it throws the shadow behind the subject insted of to the side. I think its about $45.00

[Curtis N]

The promax is a defuser right?It's more than a diffuser. Go here (http://lumiquest.com/lq931.htm) for info about the Lumiquest Promax System.

I agree that it's much more versatile when used with a camera rotating flash bracket.

[Dimitry]

what about a faster SS?
This wouldn't make a difference with flash photography. The only factor the SS changes is the amount of ambient light you pick up with the camera. So if you're still within the flash sync speed of the camera, whether you're 1 second or 1/150, the amount of "flash light" that the camera captures remains the same.

[AlexMa]

Hey Curt........

I would have gone stright up with card out..........but it was a very high valuted ceiling...............

[Curtis N]

I would have gone stright up with card out...but it was a very high valuted ceiling.If you decide that the ceiling is too high for bounced flash, then you need to point it straight ahead and use direct flash. When you're not bouncing the light off something there's no point to angling the flash head.

[AlexMa]

I was trying not to get harsh light from the direct flash.........

What would have been my best option at that point?

direct flash with the "stofen" on.

Thanks Curt.

Alex

[Curtis N]

Direct flash with a Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce, without a close ceiling or wall to bounce off, is still direct flash. Without a bouncing surface nearby, that device only wastes light.

The only way to improve the look of flash photographs in large rooms is to use a device which creates a larger apparent light source. A mini softbox, Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer or perhaps the large Flip-It device might help. Keep in mind that any improvement you get with such devices will be subtle at best, especially if you are more than 10 feet away from your subject.

Direct flash isn't as terrible as some people imply. Many wedding shooters use direct flash exclusively. Use of a flash bracket to keep the flash well above the lens will improve your shots more than any "diffuser" in situations like this.

[Clint]

GARY FONG LIGHTSPHERE!!!!!!

YOU WILL LOVE IT!!!!!

[AlexMa]

So no problems with my CB Flash bracket then............

At what angle should the flash be pointed at? Level like it would be mounted on the flash.

I have noticed that it seems like it would be better if it were pointed down a little.

Thanks Curt!

Alex

[Curtis N]

At what angle should the flash be pointed at? Level like it would be mounted on the flash.Straight ahead. The offset from the flash bracket won't be a factor unless you're really close.

[Curtis N]

GARY FONG LIGHTSPHERE!!!!!!

YOU WILL LOVE IT!!!!!In a room with a high ceiling, that device would be very effective in turning a powerful flash unit into a weak flash unit. That's about all.

[AlexMa]

Thanks Dude.............

So, keep it level like it would be if mounted on the camera.........

What would you suggest in "M" with those high celings?

[Dimitry]

That really depends on if you want to capture the ambient lighting or not.

But I'd say probably ~ 1/100, F/2.8-4.5 (depending on what you're trying to achieve and what the lens on the body at the time is capable off). At least ISO 400, go higher if you can.

But like I said, it really depends on a lot of factors: the available lighting, the type of building you're in, and what "effect" you're trying to capture.

[Curtis N]

What would you suggest in "M" with those high celings?There are two ways to go.

The first way would be to try to obliterate the ambient lighting since it's going to be a different color temperature than your flash and possibly cause white balance issues. 1/250 shutter, aperture around f/4 or f/5.6, ISO 100. The disadvantage of this approach is that the background will be dark and the photo will have a definite "flashed" look.

The second way would be to try to include some ambient light. Slow down the shutter to around 1/50, sacrifice some DOF and open up the aperture to f/2.8 (or whatever the widest setting is on your lens) and crank up the ISO until the metering needle starts to climb up a bit from -2. If you use the correct white balance for flash, the background colors may not look right.

With practice and experimentation, you'll be able to choose the look you want.

[Dimitry]

There are two ways to go.

The first way would be to try to obliterate the ambient lighting since it's going to be a different color temperature than your flash and possibly cause white balance issues. 1/250 shutter, aperture around f/4 or f/5.6, ISO 100. The disadvantage of this approach is that the background will be dark and the photo will have a definite "flashed" look.

The second way would be to try to include some ambient light. Slow down the shutter to around 1/50, sacrifice some DOF and open up the aperture to f/2.8 (or whatever the widest setting is on your lens) and crank up the ISO until the metering needle starts to climb up a bit from -2. If you use the correct white balance for flash, the background colors may not look right.

With practice and experimentation, you'll be able to choose the look you want.

Well fine...if you want to be fancy and describe it like that...humph ;)

[gcobb]

Direct flash isn't as terrible as some people imply. Many wedding shooters use direct flash exclusively. Use of a flash bracket to keep the flash well above the lens will improve your shots more than any "diffuser" in situations like this.

It could be just a matter of preference. I have the Pro-T and I think it sits a little high. Without a diffuser I'd guess for the light to not leave a shadow under someone's chin, I'd have to be over 10 feet easily. I ran into this a few weeks ago. Then I shot with the Lumiquest and a similar distance and it was perfect in comparison to straight on flash.

[jerrybsmith]

I recently purchased a Stroboframe camera flip bracket. I find it to be kind of flimsy but the biggest problem is lens release button is right behind one of the rotating joints. Be sure to mount your camera on your potential purchase to check functionality.

[woffles]

I think this tends to be more of a problem with brackets that flip the camera sideways but the flash stays on a horizontal aspect. So one is in portrait mode and the other is in landscape mode. The light doesn't quite match up. If you flip both then the light should match up with the camera aspect.

[AlexMa]

This is the reason I went with the Custom Bracket.

In port mode..........the shutter button on my grip is on the right side where it normally sits........