Is there a better auto flash unit (for the money) than the Sunpak 383 Super?

[Curtis N]

I would only be using it indoors, mostly on a bracket with the Lumiquest System.

The Sunpak 383 has the same power as the 580EX (at 35mm) and an impressive list of features for an $80 flash unit.
* Three auto settings
* Manual power adjustment from full to 1/16 in 1-stop increments
* Bounce & swivel
* PC cord
* No preflash to mess up optical slaves.

The recycle time seems a bit long, but for 80 bucks you can't ask for everything. the 8.5 second spec is probably for alkaline batteries so it won't be so bad with NiMH.

Is there a better value out there when it comes to versatile, automatic, non-dedicated flash units?

[Mark_48]

I've got two of them and I bought some shoe mount optical triggers off of ebay to slave them (not from Speedlites). Makes for a great little portable kit at a decent price.

[FlashZebra]

I would only be using it indoors, mostly on a bracket with the Lumiquest System.

The Sunpak 383 has the same power as the 580EX (at 35mm) and an impressive list of features for an $80 flash unit.
* Three auto settings
* Manual power adjustment from full to 1/16 in 1-stop increments
* Bounce & swivel
* PC cord
* No preflash to mess up optical slaves.

The recycle time seems a bit long, but for 80 bucks you can't ask for everything. the 8.5 second spec is probably for alkaline batteries so it won't be so bad with NiMH.

Is there a better value out there when it comes to versatile, automatic, non-dedicated flash units?
Great, at last someone that may get a Sunpak 383 that will actually report back to the forum about their experiences.

On paper it looks to be a lot of flash for the cash. I have a Sunpak 555 "potato masher" style flash that I really like.

I think the Sunpak also has a port for a high Voltage transformer for ad hoc studio work where AC power is available. This accessory is reasonably priced, I think $30.00.

Enjoy! Lon

[FlashZebra]

I've got two of them and I bought some shoe mount optical triggers off of ebay to slave them (not from Speedlites). Makes for a great little portable kit at a decent price.
The 383 comes with a short PC cord. There are optical slaves that plug into a PC cord on ebay that are very inexpensive.

I just got 5 for about $12.00. I have not tested them yet as they just arrived.

These can be plugged directly into the short cord and then placed in locations that are most advantageous for gathering the triggering flash (unlike the fixed position on a hotshoe mounted slave unit).

It also avoids and extra adapter being added to a hotshoe based umbrella mount, making the flash mounting more robust.

Enjoy! Lon

[snibbetsj]

I just got a new one from B&H and with NiMH I get about 6 sec recycle time for a full power flash and 3-4 sec for a 1/2 power flash. I also have the 544 'masher' and really like these auto thyristor flashes, they're very consistent and both the 383 and the 544 are very well made IMHO. I'll probably get 2 or 3 more. You certainly won't be wasting your money with the 383.
Jeff

[DC Fan]

I get good, smooth results with two 383's firing into Westcott umbrellas and a third flash as a rim light. I've been looking for a small monolight to handle the same work and haven't found one yet.

Sad to say, but I can get more consistent flash results from a properly adjusted 383 than with a Canon flash.

I would only be using it indoors, mostly on a bracket with the Lumiquest System.

The Sunpak 383 has the same power as the 580EX (at 35mm) and an impressive list of features for an $80 flash unit.
* Three auto settings
* Manual power adjustment from full to 1/16 in 1-stop increments
* Bounce & swivel
* PC cord
* No preflash to mess up optical slaves.

The recycle time seems a bit long, but for 80 bucks you can't ask for everything. the 8.5 second spec is probably for alkaline batteries so it won't be so bad with NiMH.

Is there a better value out there when it comes to versatile, automatic, non-dedicated flash units?

[JX]

DC Fan wrote:

Sad to say, but I can get more consistent flash results from a properly adjusted 383 than with a Canon flash.


DC,

I totally agree with you. I switched to a Quantum. The results with my TD5 on auto are far more consistent than using my 580EX with ETTL.

Jim

[Curtis N]

Thanks to Mark, Lon, Jeff, DC Fan and JX for their input.

Well I might someday buy one of these puppies, but it dawned on me that the Sunpak doesn't have an AF assist beam. Unfortunately, that's a deal breaker. I shoot in too many situations where I would be sunk without AF assist.

Someday though, maybe. ;)

[Mark_48]

Thanks to Mark, Lon, Jeff, DC Fan and JX for their input.

Well I might someday buy one of these puppies, but it dawned on me that the Sunpak doesn't have an AF assist beam. Unfortunately, that's a deal breaker. I shoot in too many situations where I would be sunk without AF assist.

Someday though, maybe. ;)

ST-E2 Transmitter for AF in the shoe and 383 PC cord connected on a bracket? :idea: :lol: :lol:

[Curtis N]

I like your thinking, Mark.

Or, I could wear a miner's helmet.

[Curtis N]

ST-E2 Transmitter for AF in the shoe and 383 PC cord connected on a bracket?Ok I think I got a better (cheaper) idea.

I could use my Sigma flash on the hotshoe for AF assist. I could disable the flash via custom function or set it to a low power if I didn't want light from it.

Then I could connect one of those cheap E-Bay remote transmitters to the PC socket on the camera. Then I could fire it on a bracket or mount it on a stand.

One question: Does it swivel 180 degrees, so I could shoot it into an umbrella and keep the sensor pointed toward the subject?

[Mark_48]

Ok I think I got a better (cheaper) idea.

I could use my Sigma flash on the hotshoe for AF assist. I could disable the flash via custom function or set it to a low power if I didn't want light from it.

Then I could connect one of those cheap E-Bay remote transmitters to the PC socket on the camera. Then I could fire it on a bracket or mount it on a stand.

One question: Does it swivel 180 degrees, so I could shoot it into an umbrella and keep the sensor pointed toward the subject?

Yup.....

Not sure how that would work using the sensor on the 383 in relation to what you set the cameras aperature for and the flash distance to subject. It might work OK. I've usually used them in manual and metered the flash for the exposure setting if they aren't mounted on the camera.

[Curtis N]

Thanks, Mark!

[Marquis Photos]

I use 383's on my canon D20 bodies. Also have a sunpak 500 that works well too, but you need to tape over the TTL contact on the 5000's hot shoe or it won't work on-camera.

[Curtis N]

Well I bit the bullet and ordered one today, along with a radio trigger set via E-Bay. I'm mostly intrigued by the off-camera possibilities with this relatively inexpensive setup.

When it arrives, I'll put it through its paces and provide a comprehensive review.

[DC Fan]

I've gotten smooth coverage of an area around 15 feet wide with a pair of the 383's bounced off two silver 30-inch Westcott umbrellas, typically f/5 at ISO 200 with the subjects about six feet away.

The refresh rate with new NiMH cells is around 6 seconds. I'd like to have a faster refresh rate, but that would mean buying supplemental batteries that probably would cost more than the 383's. NiMH's are a lot less expensive, and I have a freshly charged set for each strobe when the refresh rate slows down.

It would be great to have an inexpensive AC monolight to replace the Sunpaks, but the least expensive of those lights cost almost twice as much as the 383's, and I wonder if they're as durable in real-world transport as the 383's.

Well I bit the bullet and ordered one today, along with a radio trigger set via E-Bay. I'm mostly intrigued by the off-camera possibilities with this relatively inexpensive setup.

When it arrives, I'll put it through its paces and provide a comprehensive review.

[jrsforums]

Hi y'all....

I just "tripped" over this... http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=61441&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

I was wondering your thoughts on this Vivitar 285HV vs. the Sunpak 383...???

[Curtis N]

I haven't actually fondled nor used the Vivitar 285HV, though I know it's a popular unit. It has some nice features the Sunpak lacks, like a manually zooming flash head and removeable sensor, but the lack of swivel capability killed the deal for me.

I have specific uses in mind that require a swivel head, but others may not need that particular feature.

[Marquis Photos]

Hi y'all....

I just "tripped" over this... http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=61441&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

I was wondering your thoughts on this Vivitar 285HV vs. the Sunpak 383...???
I use both Vivtars and the Sunpaks. I used to use the 285's on camera, but switched to the supak 383 only because I changed my shooting style to use bounced flash with the FlipIt flash bouncer. The Vivitar has a bounce head but no swivel head, so I swithed.

The 285 is a very very capable flash and I recommend it. If you don't need a swivel head get one. I still use mine for off-camera lighting at weddings all the time and for kicker lights in studio.

[Curtis N]

Ok those of you who own the Sunpak 383 Super, please help me figure this out.

It arrived yesterday and I have been using it in various configurations.
Works on the hotshoe (20D)
Works with the PC cord
Works with a hotshoe - PC cord adapter
Works with a slave attachment on the foot
Works with a slave attachment via PC cord
but...

I can't get it to fire when connected to my 20D via my TTL cord (a Promaster version of the Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord 2). It won't even fire with the test button when it's mounted on that cord! I have two of those cords and I tried them both.

I'm stumped. I know I don't NEED to use that cord. I have other options. But this is bugging me.

Any ideas?

[Twitch1977]

I just started a thread regarding this flash before this one got bumped. I've been trying to use this flash on a Rebel XTi but can't once I get up to shutter speeds of around 1/400th. (More info on what I'm experiencing at: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=241214 )

Have those of you that have this flash found a way to use it with Canon digital cameras? Someone mentioned taping over a contact?

Any info would be appreciated :)
Kurt

[Mark_48]

I can't get it to fire when connected to my 20D via my TTL cord (a Promaster version of the Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord 2). It won't even fire with the test button when it's mounted on that cord! I have two of those cords and I tried them both.

I'm stumped. I know I don't NEED to use that cord. I have other options. But this is bugging me.

Any ideas?
Curtis,
I think your out of luck. I just took an ohmmeter and tried to see if there was continuity between end to end connections on the Canon Off Shoe Cord 2. They all are connected through with the exception of the center one where your pin is on the flash bottom. That one reads infinity in one direction and upwards of about 10MegOhms in the other direction (reverse the polarity of the meter leads to measure this). I suspect there's something like an SCR or other semiconductor device in there that does this which gets fired with an ETTL-II pulse or something to get it to conduct.
Good to hear the 383 does everything you want it to do so far.

[FlashZebra]

Curtis,
I think your out of luck. I just took an ohmmeter and tried to see if there was continuity between end to end connections on the Canon Off Shoe Cord 2. They all are connected through with the exception of the center one where your pin is on the flash bottom. That one reads infinity in one direction and upwards of about 10MegOhms in the other direction (reverse the polarity of the meter leads to measure this). I suspect there's something like an SCR or other semiconductor device in there that does this which gets fired with an ETTL-II pulse or something to get it to conduct.
Good to hear the 383 does everything you want it to do so far.
Even more intrigue in the "Canon Way" that seems to frustrate rudimentary flash usage at every turn (with their flash gear).

Enjoy! Lon

[Curtis N]

Mark,

Thanks for the reply.
I don' know much 'bout 'lectronics, and I don't know why the cord would be engineered that way, but it's good to know there's an explanation.

[Wilt]

Mark,

Thanks for the reply.
I don' know much 'bout 'lectronics, and I don't know why the cord would be engineered that way, but it's good to know there's an explanation.

Probably the SCR or diode is in the circuit to prevent current flow in the wrong direction as the flash is slid on/off or the cable is slid on/ff the camera, thusly causing reverse current into the camera and damaging the synch circuitry of the camera.

[FlashZebra]

Probably the SCR or diode is in the circuit to prevent current flow in the wrong direction as the flash is slid on/off or the cable is slid on/ff the camera, thusly causing reverse current into the camera and damaging the synch circuitry of the camera.
Well it has to be more than a diode with infinite resistance in one direction and 10 million Ohms in the other. In theory 10 million Ohms is not infinite resistance, but I suspect it this practical case it basically the same thing.

Enjoy! Lon

[Mark_48]

I can't get it to fire when connected to my 20D via my TTL cord (a Promaster version of the Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord 2). It won't even fire with the test button when it's mounted on that cord! I have two of those cords and I tried them both.

I'm stumped. I know I don't NEED to use that cord. I have other options. But this is bugging me.

Any ideas?

Curtis,

Interesting update...

Although I had measured the Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord 2 with an ohmmeter and had gotten results that would point to the 383 not working when connected through it, I actually tried it with a 20D this morning with a 383 attached and it did indeed fire the strobe. Might be worth trying yours again for the heck of it. Maybe something just wasn't connecting the first time. Or maybe there is a slight difference in the Promaster cord that prevents it from working. The 383 actually did pretty good in its automatic mode getting the exposure right for the few shots I tried, at least when I didn't cover the sensor accidently while hand holding it.:o :o

[Curtis N]

Thanks, Mark.
As I mentioned, I don't understand this electronic stuff very well, but when I used the ohm scale of my digital multi-tester to test end-to-end continuity of my Promaster cord, here's what I get:
The reading is around 0.9 for the four auxilary (TTL) contacts and the ground.
The reading is around 7.7 for the main (center) contact. Polarity made no difference.

I have two of these cords and could not make the flash fire with either one. What I REALLY can't figure out is why the test button won't work when the flash is connected to the cord, even when the other end of the cord is not connected to the camera. The test button works when the flash is not connected to anything, and it works on the hotshoe, but not on the cord.

It's a real head-scratcher for me.