Studio camera settings

[pastorchrisk]

What camera setting do you prefer for studio work? I am just starting out and have two flash/umbrellas and some home depot shop lights for backlight/hair. Anyway, I have only used the manual setting usually the iso is between 100 - 200 and f5.6 and shutter at 200.

What settings do you use and prefer?

Thanks!
Chris

[cgratti]

About the same, I shoot in Manual, about 5.6, ISO 100, 1/160 sec. or so.

[naqs]

I second that Cgratti always shoot studio stuff in Manual Mode... also if you are just starting maybe use RAW as well

[Vegas Poboy]

Studio work really depends on what effects you're trying to create. High key, low key, etc lighting all have different settings.
What lighting ratios are you trying to create? 1:1, 3:1, etc?
It would most likely serve you better by purchasing a light meter also lighting depends on how much room you have to work with.

[PhotosGuy]

It's too general a ? Depends on subject size/distance, lens focal length, & the effect that you're trying to create. Depends on what the subject of the "studio work" is? People? Product?
Start with this question: What f-stop should you use for the "proper" DOF? Then I'd set ISO @ 100. Then shutter speed. Adjust the lighting to get workable numbers.
Virtual Camera (http://www.photonhead.com/simcam/)
DOF calculator (http://www.rbarkerphoto.com/DOF2.html)

It would most likely serve you better by purchasing a light meter also lighting depends on how much room you have to work with. I own one & don't use it anymore. Others swear by them.

[GrendelZ]

We usually light most things to shoot at f11 / 125th sec @100 for portrait/fashion stuff.But as stated earlier it really depends on what youre trying to accomplish.

[LBaldwin]

There are NO studio settings. Zip, zero, nAda. Your question is too broad
Take a studio lighting course. You can't tell what you don't know.
You will need to learn to use a flash meter. You will need to learn posing, lighting styles and corrective lighting styles.

So....

Get thee to a learnin center near you.

Les

[zacwolf]

ISO 100
f8
1/125

[clearblue]

Always ISO 100 if you can, for lovely crisp and sharp images.

f/10 and 1/125 using a 1Ds MKII and 24-70mm L

Good ballpark settings to get you going in a 3 light studio setup, main softbox to the right of the subject at 45 degree angle and above them. 2 lights on the background.

[notapro]

I wish I could manage to always use ISO 100. My meager setup (meager-er than yours) won't allow it. My last studio shoot was at ISO/PIVAMF (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=4323150&postcount=54) 400 (hehe... thanks, Curtis :) ) and if you pixel-peep, sure it's grainy, but prints fine. Good exposures and nailing focus keep it from being an issue.

[bieber]

Always ISO 100 if you can, for lovely crisp and sharp images.

f/10 and 1/125 using a 1Ds MKII and 24-70mm L

Good ballpark settings to get you going in a 3 light studio setup, main softbox to the right of the subject at 45 degree angle and above them. 2 lights on the background.

Why use two lights on the background? At least use one as a fill, or better yet, a reflector as fill and one of those lights for a hairlight...

[milleker]

Give me ISO100, 1/125 at f/8 or f/11 any day. Of course with different lighting schemes this floats up and down but start at around 8 or 11 and you'll have enough DOF for your model to move around a bit without having to worry much about dialing in focus between every shot.

A light meter is really your friend in the studio, but you could always dial in a good setting by following your histogram after test shots. Once you're familiar with your lights you'll know how far to place them and at what power to give you a pretty accurate starting point.

[PhotosGuy]

Why use two lights on the background? Two lights at a 45 degree angle will give an even light, if that's what you need. There's no rule, except what you need.

[clearblue]

Yep..no rules...the studio I use has an infinity curve corner and I find 2 lights give me a really white background to work with.

Each Bowens light is fitted with barn doors so I get good control on light spill on the background. Not much time with group portraits to change the set up for hair lights etc....but next time I'm doing a 1 on 1 session i'll have a play.

Totally agree with focus...nail that and we can all live with a little grain, poor focus will indeed always let a photo down.

[clearblue]

Give me ISO100, 1/125 at f/8 or f/11 any day. Of course with different lighting schemes this floats up and down but start at around 8 or 11 and you'll have enough DOF for your model to move around a bit without having to worry much about dialing in focus between every shot.


Absolutely...I find from experience that these settings wont cause too many issues with group sessions. Half the fun these days is the CS3 work afterwards, creating effects and such, really enjoy that and the prints get ordered so I guess the customers do to.