Underexposure, Overexposure!! AAARRRGGGHH!!!!

[Ellie]

Ok, What next. I had a problem with underexposing, now I have a problem with overexposing. I have read and reread the manual and read all kinds of forums and messages boards. I'm not exactly new to photographer and shoot most everything in the manuel mode. I guess I need to learn more about PS and just fix everything. How to do you save a blown shot anyway?

Ellie

300D
550EX
18-55
80-200 (yuck)
too many to mention Minolta products (hubby might see post)

[TeraGram93013]

Ok, What next. I had a problem with underexposing, now I have a problem with overexposing. I have read and reread the manual and read all kinds of forums and messages boards. I'm not exactly new to photographer and shoot most everything in the manuel mode. )

Doesn't the 300D have an exposure meter in the viewfinder?

Where's them PR materials I picked up before I made my decision about the 10D?

(rustle, rustle)

Yes, yes here they are. Why YES the 300D DOES have an exposure value indicator right there in the view frame! Are you ignoring it?

I guess I need to learn more about PS and just fix everything. How to do you save a blown shot anyway?

No, you need to learn to use your camera. Photoshop will correct a lot of problems, but unless you want to spend HOURS in front of your computer after every shoot, you've got to get that exposure problem under control.

Don't know what version of Photoshop you're using, but a quick fix is just to select "Auto Levels" and see what Photoshop does.

Secondly, learn to handle curves.

[GPR1]

It's tough to fix a blown shot; underexposed shots at least have some data to work with. "The Photoshop Book for Digital Photographers" by Kelby has easy to follow instructions for fixing such photos.

You don't mention the histogram in your post. After many years of film I transitioned to digital, and it's taken a while to learn. But the histogram is a valuable tool, if your camera model provides it (use the info button when reviewing images on the 10D). The 10D review will also flash where an image is completly blown out, where there is no data. Between these two items you can watch your exposures. Just looking at the LCD can be misleading, and I do find the exposure values a little different than I was used to with film.

Good luck.

Greg

[Ellie]

I do know how to use the camera, I'm just not getting consistent results from it. I also know about the histogram and the exposure meter. This was a one time shot and it's blown.

http://www.pbase.com/image/25489212
Take a look. Please.
Ellie

[TeraGram93013]

I do know how to use the camera, I'm just not getting consistent results from it.

And I contend that you do not.

You have a very basic understanding of what it is capable of, but you aren't showing proficiency with it.

From my viewing of your image, you over-exposed with your flash. You didn't expose for your foreground subjects but for the middle-ground subjects. I also notice that it is a straight-on flash, which is another bad error in important indoors shots. You should have used a bounce technique or at the very least, a diffuser on that flash.

I think you MIGHT be able to correct some of this image, but the face details on your subjects are all but lost.

[mvrekum]

How to do you save a blown shot anyway?

Blown shots are saved in the trash. It sound harsh but it is true. My trash is full of it. :lol:

When you overexpose you loose detail in your highlights and when you underexpose the detail in the shadow is gone. Now you can play with photoshop as long as you like but you can not bring back what is not there.
Don't waist your time on blown shots, but try to find out what you did wrong, so you learn for the next time.

Or simply learn by shooting the same subject with different settings. With a digital camera you do not have to worry about wasting film, right.
In emergency situations, when you are unsure how to expose a subject, try auto bracketing (read the manual of the 300D :wink: )

Martin

[iwatkins]

According the the EXIF for the image you had minus one and a third exposure compensation dialed in.

That assumes the EXIF data can be trusted but you usually can.

Cheers

Ian

[Ellie]

I know what I did. I added another shot and I just realized that I must have metered on the dark color of the jacket, which in turned blew my highlights. The other photo has the bride in the middle and with the centered base metering this shot was not blown. Maybe a little overexposed on the white shirts of the boys... easily corrected.


Oh, by the way, I'm using PS7. I've got the upgrade but never used it or installed it. I'm taking an online class and they use 7 so I figure I'll keep using it a while. At least until I figure out more about it then switch. It can't be that different can it?

Ellie

[Ellie]

According the the EXIF for the image you had minus one and a third exposure compensation dialed in.

That assumes the EXIF data can be trusted but you usually can.

Cheers

Ian


Yes Ian, that's because all during the wedding I was having trouble with overexposure. The data is correct. There was a guy at the wedding who had the same camera, he had some other flash that I'd never heard of, and a Sigma lens, but he was having underexposure problems! All of his shots were so dark you could hardly make them out on the LCD. He was standing right next to me taking the same shots as I was. Go figure!! Kinda nice seeing the difference between the 2. I just never expected to see such a drastic difference.

Ellie

p.s. do you think teregram is always so mean or do you think it's me she doesn't like? :wink:

[scottbergerphoto]

Sorry, but I have to add my two cents. The lighting for that picture is primarily flash. Exposure compensation will not do anything for that picture. The flash will just compensate by increasing it's output to expose what it thinks it should via ETTL. What you should have done is check the histogram and turned down the flash output by dialing in (-) flash exposure compensation on the flash as I don't think it's available on the 300D body. The exposure meter in the camera viewfinder only shows you the proper exposure for the background in flash photography, not the flash. You can only adjust the flash in ETTL after you've taken the picture and reviewed the histogram. Then you add or subtract flash with FEC and take the picture again! You are confusing exposure compensation and FEC.
Scott

[Ellie]

You're right about the FEC not being on the 300D body. There is a program that's not a Canon program that will set your FEC under or over by 2 stops. I've downloaded it but have not used it. It's not Canon so I'm kinda of scared to use it. Of course neither or The Sigma lens, or a third party flash. I don't know what it will hurt really. Just hate to reprogram a camera with something not Canon. I had however increased the flash output by 2/3 of a stop before that shot because some other shots were underexposed. SOOO... I'll start from scratch, reset everything to default and try again. Good thing about it the film is cheap!
Thanks for the info and the straightening out.
Oh, Scott, I expect your 2 cents... keep it coming.

Thanks.
Ellie

[eric1]

Ellie,
i noticed the exposure meter in my DRebel was a bit off. it always
under exposed. i use the histogram, it's much more accurate. also,
if you shoot in raw, a program like C1rebel will work wonders with
an under exposed shot (within reason). like the others said, over
exposed is usually trash.

thanks,
eric1