Help needed asap

[monkey_wrench]

Hey guys ive not been on here inawhile but i am once again dragged back for help and advice

I am doing a friends wedding on friday :shock: and went to the place where they will be getting married today to check it out seems rather dark and i dont think my inferior flash on the pro1 will do the job whatsoever so i have decided to buy the Canon Speedlite 430EX from jessops tomorrow im gonna have to get used to it fast!! i am also thinking of getting a half decent light meter http://www.jessops.com/Store/s6619/0/Exposure-Meters/Sekonic/L-208-Light-Meter/details.aspx?&IsSearch=y&pageindex=1&comp=n
(http://www.jessops.com/Store/s6619/0/Exposure-Meters/Sekonic/L-208-Light-Meter/details.aspx?&IsSearch=y&pageindex=1&comp=n)
will it be do the job?? how do i sink the flash to the manual settings on my camera during the shoot am i over my head how do i read the light meter properly and where to do i hold it in the shot?

before u say "yes u are over your head" and that i should back out now before its too late they already know the consequences and that i have denied all forms of payments. but they insist on me doing it.

cheers guys and gals

[rpolitsr]

I am far from being an expert in flash photography. I have the 420EX with my Pro1 and it works great.
I would say that as important as the flash it is some kind of bouncer. I have the Sto-Fen Omnibounce EX for the 420EX and there is a slightly different model for the 430EX. (Check http://www.stofen.com)

I shot good pictures using the Pro1 in Tv mode to take advantage of the E-TTL. In manual works great if you control the output power of the flash, but without the flash meter it is a matter of trial and error.

If you have large CF cards for storage it is better to shoot in RAW.

I can remember some other tips, but better we wait for the real experts… :)

[monkey_wrench]

I am far from being an expert in flash photography. I have the 420EX with my Pro1 and it works great.
I would say that as important as the flash it is some kind of bouncer. I have the Sto-Fen Omnibounce EX for the 420EX and there is a slightly different model for the 430EX. (Check http://www.stofen.com)

I shot good pictures using the Pro1 in Tv mode to take advantage of the E-TTL. In manual works great if you control the output power of the flash, but without the flash meter it is a matter of trial and error.

If you have large CF cards for storage it is better to shoot in RAW.

I can remember some other tips, but better we wait for the real experts… :)


I will look into a diffuser they seem pretty essential

what does E-TTL mean?

[cyclone]

TTL means that the flash metering is done through the lens (TTL!). I think e is electronic.

If you don't get a diffuser, point the flash up (so it will bounce off the ceiling). This will diffuse the light. However, it will also create shadows at the eyes, because the light is coming from the ceiling. So you want to also tape/band a white card onto the flash, so that the card is extending about halfway past the end of the flash. This will deflect some of the flash forward, so now you will have better lighting.

You will want to use manual mode for your flash shots. Look at your camera manual to see what the sync speed is for the Pro1 (probably somewhere between 1/120 to 1/250s). Set the shutter speed at or below this value, but fast enough to freeze motion. It won't matter much in the exposure, since the flash will fire at a much faster speed than this. Take some test shots, starting at say 100-200ISO and f5.6. If the shot is too dark, open up the aperture. If it is too light, stop down.

If you have a lightmeter, set your ISO and shutter speed, and hold it by the object you want to shoot. It will tell you the proper aperture value.

[Andy_T]

MonkeyWrench,

first of all good luck for your venture!

Just one question ... what do you want to use the light meter for?
Mind you, I'm not asking this question in a cynical way, I am interested.

I have not used a light meter yet, but have the impression that they might be helpful when doing a studio shot where you can set up the shot with the meter, then take it and go to the next shot.

I don't see where it will help you a lot in a stressfull situation like a wedding with 2 days of experience using it.

Mind you, I don't want to discourage you from bringing your photography to the next level, I am just questioning the value of getting the light meter for the wedding on friday. IMO, getting the 580 EX instead of the 430 EX (more powerful flash) and relying on the cameras metering (and frequently checking the histogram) might bring you more profit here.

Maybe someone with experience with using a light meter can help here...

Best regards,
Andy

[rpolitsr]

E-TTL (evaluative through the lens) flash metering.
Essentially a pre-flash of known intensity is fired and evaluated by the camera BEFORE the main flash fires for the actual shot. That is the way the Pro1 works with the 420EX. The 430EX can be locally programmed and those settings override the camera E-TTL control but I am not familiar with the 430EX.

[Andy_T]

Also, take a look here: EOS Flash Bible (http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46599)

Actually, it's been compiled for the EOS dslr users, but I assume most of what is written there should be quite helpful for you.

Best regards,
Andy

[monkey_wrench]

TTL means that the flash metering is done through the lens (TTL!). I think e is electronic.

If you don't get a diffuser, point the flash up (so it will bounce off the ceiling). This will diffuse the light. However, it will also create shadows at the eyes, because the light is coming from the ceiling. So you want to also tape/band a white card onto the flash, so that the card is extending about halfway past the end of the flash. This will deflect some of the flash forward, so now you will have better lighting.

You will want to use manual mode for your flash shots. Look at your camera manual to see what the sync speed is for the Pro1 (probably somewhere between 1/120 to 1/250s). Set the shutter speed at or below this value, but fast enough to freeze motion. It won't matter much in the exposure, since the flash will fire at a much faster speed than this. Take some test shots, starting at say 100-200ISO and f5.6. If the shot is too dark, open up the aperture. If it is too light, stop down.

If you have a lightmeter, set your ISO and shutter speed, and hold it by the object you want to shoot. It will tell you the proper aperture value.

Thankyou! you have definately cleared a few things up for me im sure playing with it non stop for two days will help too :D

what if i used reflector above the flash and angle it towards the couple? would that work better?

[monkey_wrench]

MonkeyWrench,

first of all good luck for your venture!

Just one question ... what do you want to use the light meter for?
Mind you, I'm not asking this question in a cynical way, I am interested.

I have not used a light meter yet, but have the impression that they might be helpful when doing a studio shot where you can set up the shot with the meter, then take it and go to the next shot.

I don't see where it will help you a lot in a stressfull situation like a wedding with 2 days of experience using it.

Mind you, I don't want to discourage you from bringing your photography to the next level, I am just questioning the value of getting the light meter for the wedding on friday. IMO, getting the 580 EX instead of the 430 EX (more powerful flash) and relying on the cameras metering (and frequently checking the histogram) might bring you more profit here.

Maybe someone with experience with using a light meter can help here...

Best regards,
Andy

I was thinking of getting it perfect first time instead of making people stand around until i get my settings right :o plus i will have the family shots etc in the stands of the rugby club so i thought it would come in handy then? thanks for the help tho i need as much as i can get right now :rolleyes:

[Andy_T]

As I already mentioned, I haven't used one yet.

However, I think taking some example shots and judging from the histogram which one is exposed correctly might be more convenient ... saves you the jogging between your camera on its tripod and the light meter that's placed where your subject is (while people stand around waiting for you to get your settings right :wink: ).

And use RAW, of course.

Best regards,
Andy

[monkey_wrench]

As I already mentioned, I haven't used one yet.

However, I think taking some example shots and judging from the histogram which one is exposed correctly might be more convenient ... saves you the jogging between your camera on its tripod and the light meter that's placed where your subject is (while people stand around waiting for you to get your settings right :wink: ).

And use RAW, of course.

Best regards,
Andy

I am abit hesistant to use raw not dealt with it that much yet

I have three 256mb cards and a 64mb card and if i used raw how long would they last me?

[monkey_wrench]

what software do u use when using raw images

[rpolitsr]

I have three 256mb cards and a 64mb card and if i used raw how long would they last me?
26 to 30 RAW pictures in a 256MB CF card and a max. of 9 RAW in 64MB CF card for a total of 85 to 90 pictures. Not enough pictures in my opinion, but RAW is really better if you need some corrections to the original picture.

[monkey_wrench]

26 to 30 RAW pictures in a 256MB CF card and a max. of 9 RAW in 64MB CF card for a total of 85 to 90 pictures. Not enough pictures in my opinion, but RAW is really better if you need some corrections to the original picture.

Might grab a 1gb card in town tomorrow :)

[rpolitsr]

what software do u use when using raw images

usually Raw Image Task (included in ZoomBrowser) by Canon or Adobe Camera Raw plug-in for Photoshop CS, but you can download Adobe Lightroom BETA4 and use it while it last (I think three months). It is great and the ‘normal’ controls are easy to use. I fear I will be buying it after the trial period if they sell the program at a reasonable price.

edit:
from Adobe Labs website: Lightroom beta 4.1 build expires February 28, 2007.

[monkey_wrench]

usually Raw Image Task (included in ZoomBrowser) by Canon or Adobe Camera Raw plug-in for Photoshop CS, but you can download Adobe Lightroom BETA4 and use it while it last (I think three months). It is great and the ‘normal’ controls are easy to use. I fear I will be buying it after the trial period if they sell the program at a reasonable price.

edit:
from Adobe Labs website: Lightroom beta 4.1 build expires February 28, 2007.

yeah just downloaded it looks like the biz! how do you save it once u have finished tinkering

[rpolitsr]

Sorry for the delayed answer, I left the computer unattended for a while.

There are at least two Lightroom Beta Videos (tutorials) here:

http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/lightroom/video/ (http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/lightroom/video/)

My internet connection is not fast enough, I hope you can see them.

To save your image to other formats like tif or jpg, select the image in lightroom and use File>Export

Choose the destination folder and other options in the export dialog box uncheck the Constrain Size checkbox if you do not want to change the size of your image and click export.

[monkey_wrench]

Ok got myself a 4gb card and a speedlite 430ex no diffusers to be seen tho =/