What do you need for professional photography

[dreamer]

Hello,

I need to do professional digital photos.

I have decided to get the Canon Eos 300D.

What else should I get? I am going to take professional photos for objects. I will need to be able to take close up shots, I will need to be able to delete the background and any other tips.

I will be taking the images of the objects indoor, so i guess i will need a blue screen, a white screen, reflecters and other things.

WHat should i get???

Also how do blue screens work and what type of program do i need?

The objects will not be human!

thanks! ALSO do does any one know any sites which has free tutorials on taking pictures?

[stopbath]

Hello,

I need to do professional digital photos.

I have decided to get the Canon Eos 300D.

What else should I get? I am going to take professional photos for objects. I will need to be able to take close up shots, I will need to be able to delete the background and any other tips.

I will be taking the images of the objects indoor, so i guess i will need a blue screen, a white screen, reflecters and other things.

WHat should i get???

Also how do blue screens work and what type of program do i need?

The objects will not be human!

thanks! ALSO do does any one know any sites which has free tutorials on taking pictures?

Hmmm... Free tutorials, What should I get? How does it work? I need to do professional...

Something seems odd here... Are you a professional photographer already and just want to delve into studio work? Or with the 300D be your first camera?

If you're already professional, I don't see the need for free tutorials (books and paid lessons are likely better quality than free tutorials), but if your 300D is your first camera, I don't see how you can logically hope to become professional with a new camera and a few tutorials...

Within any skill set, the motto for getting better is: Practice practice practice... It's more important than schooling (books, tutorials, schools sure do help, but they alone are just devoid of usefulness without practice!) So get your camera, shoot ample photos, get some books, take some classes, perhaps visit some studios... Buy your studio set up when you have a feel for what you need (given the size of studio and capabilities you want.)

[dreamer]

I c... no i'm not a professional.

300D will not be my first camera, but it will be my first SLR camera.

I c what you mean. Thats my motto i never waste money on course. I always like to expirement.

With building up a studio. thats the question i was really asking. What would you include in your studio?

Also i need to create really good images of products for my brotehers company... so i guess i need to cut out backgrouns and capture colour well. How do people do this? I've seen some really good ones. What kind of screen do you need and what type of program.

thanks.

[w10d]

Also i need to create really good images of products for my brotehers company... so i guess i need to cut out backgrouns and capture colour well. How do people do this?

thanks.

They hire professional photographers.....

Or you could just hire a studio and a professional assistant....

Or, if you really want to do great product shots yourself, buy a camera with movements and learn how to use it....

[maderito]

dreamer,

If you don't mind my asking, are you a child, teenager, or adult?
What camera(s) have you used before and for how long?

It's really not clear if you post is serious and appropriate for this forum.

[SoCal69]

No offense Dreamer, but from your post, it appears that you have no real experience with:

basic photography concepts and techniques
SLR cameras
image processing
studio work

The impression I get from your post is that you decided on a whim that you would try your hand at this type of photography with no idea about how to do it or what you will need. What you really need to do is start with a book on basic photography. There really is no way to shortcut around it. You will also need to learn about basic image processing (not an easy task either). For image processing, you will need to select software appropriate for your needs, read the manual or other books which teach you the basics of the software and how to use it, and practice, practice, practice. I think you will need to have at least a basic grasp of these before you even consider studying your needs for studio lighting. You will also need to know what kind of shooting you will be doing and how the shots will be used in order to accurately assess ALL of your needs.

Really, there is no answer anyone here can give you. The answers to all of your questions depends on you and your specific needs. In order to do that, you really do need to first be (somewhat) knowledgeable about photography, software, your budget and your abilities. At the very least, you should read a few books and peruse the web to gain some level of understanding so that you can ask more detailed and specific questions. Your questions are too vague and general to really get you any useful answers.

[IndyJeff]

The first thing every professional photgrapher has to get before he is a professional is paying clients.

[dreamer]

no offence taken. I know i'm not a pro. and i am learning. I've done lots of reserach about the techical side of photgraphy.

Really i don't want to buy equipment, and then upgrade again and again. I just want to get all the equipment first and on the long term use it for many many years to come. yeah yeah yeah i know your're syaying that i will proably buy extra along the way... but you know what i mean.

I really don't like taking courses etc. I really love expreimentation. I am reading on some basic photo taking techinques etc.

I know i'm not a pro, but i am learning. and i do know something about cameras, lighting, and the technical stuff. so please don't take me for a total idiot because i do know something but i just havn't had to chance to work with a decent camera. i'm using a bloody 2 mega pixel camera which doesn't even have manal focus controls or even proper white balance. NO OPTICAL ZOOM... how lame is that.

I have been look at http://www.sell-it-on-the-net.com/online_store/panel_system.htm i think it really suits my needs. what are you opinions?

don't worry about me wasting money. leave money out of this picture. if you need to know around $2500USD is the aim.

i've been doing reserach and really i love the canon eos 300d because its not over $1000...

i am going to get i'd say at least a 500watt light because i need to take images of small and large object, i'm affaird that the strong light will overexpose small objects, so would a screen help, or a weaker light?

BTW. going to use continious lighting. hate flashes.

I will need a large white screen to take pictures of medium and large size objects. But i don't like tents so i will just get a small screen as well. i want to use white because all my images will have a white background and i don't like to use different colours because when i cut the bg out in adobe elements, its leaks into the image. So what are your opinions.

ALso one more problem, when i takes images or shiny objects now with my camera, i always see a reflection, i tried appling a black background to the wall behind and wearing a black material but doesn't seem to do it. i still see the camera. i think its because its a silver colour.

With the camera eos 300d since its not black can you see reflections of the camera? is there a way to fix this?

i hope you can help... am please stop saying i have no idea in the field of photgraphy. because i'm learning more each day, and im deeply passionate about it.

forget about that company thing i said, its not for a cilent! ITS FOR A FAMILY MEMEBER! really its not all about the money.

ALso SoCal69, u know its not all about knowing correct techiques, becuase photography is a art and in art their is no correct way of doing something. sure they can help, but books and lectures don't teach everything and the most importanting thing about art is to create your own image and style, if you didn;t you would just be doing the same thing everybody else is doing.

one of the biggest revolutions in art was the changing of canvas to silk, and that took a person who coloured outside the lines.

[dreamer]

i'm 15 just today btw.

[SoCal69]

OK, so it turns out you are quite a bit more knowledgeable than your initial post let on. As was mentioned before, your initial post made it seem like you had hardly even handled a camera before. Your last detailed post would have been a much better way to begin the thread so that other members could offer more meaningful advice.

As for your dilemma, I have little to offer, as this is not the type of shooting I have done (plus I have no studio setup). I know for a fact many members on here can offer lighting suggestions. I have no doubt that the 300D is capable, but you will need to turn to others for info on lighting accessories.

Good luck

[dreamer]

i c.

well i'm new to this forum so... i'll get the hang of it. =P

be a smart ass got ya... lol

[w10d]

I have been look at http://www.sell-it-on-the-net.com/online_store/panel_system.htm i think it really suits my needs. what are you opinions?


I have used panels like these as diffusers on location. They will have they're uses in the studio, but ideally you will need to make some sort of enclosure to control the light and avoid leakage. Consider how much light they pass if you are using a fairly low power light to begin with.

i've been doing reserach and really i love the canon eos 300d because its not over $1000...

i am going to get i'd say at least a 500watt light because i need to take images of small and large object, i'm affaird that the strong light will overexpose small objects, so would a screen help, or a weaker light?

BTW. going to use continious lighting. hate flashes.



The 300D may get you started in studio work but it is far from ideal for the kind of still life work you seem to be describing (as are most DSLRs). Maybe you just need to find that out in your own time.

There are lots of ways to control light and exposure (but less you can do about heat!). Most often the problem is not having enough light, small object can mean close-up/macro, and little DoF. Long term you might want to re-consider flash.

I will need a large white screen to take pictures of medium and large size objects. But i don't like tents so i will just get a small screen as well. i want to use white because all my images will have a white background and i don't like to use different colours because when i cut the bg out in adobe elements, its leaks into the image. So what are your opinions.

ALso one more problem, when i takes images or shiny objects now with my camera, i always see a reflection, i tried appling a black background to the wall behind and wearing a black material but doesn't seem to do it. i still see the camera. i think its because its a silver colour.

With the camera eos 300d since its not black can you see reflections of the camera? is there a way to fix this?


I think the leak you are refering to is a light leakage - it's still there with a white background, just not as evident as colour. 'White' light leakage can look wrong and really be a big give-away when you place an object on a background that would'nt be reflecting white light. If you use something like Knockout+colour background you can easily cut out an object and place it onto another background.

Tents are used to prevent unattractive reflections in shiny objects, also a camera with movements can avoid this in some situations.

[dreamer]

ahh i c what you mean with the diffusion panels.

with the blubs, what would you recomend for small objects, medium objects and large objects?

I guess i would need a tent too, that would be ideal for getting rid of shadows. but you wouldn't use a strong blub for that wouldn't you. since the light is very contained.

really i'm going to use the diffusion panels for medium items since some of the object don't all fit the tent. would it be a good idea to have 3. on on both side and the back, and have the light from the back and maybe side?

Do you think 500 watt is strong enough for a large object lets say 1 meter in size?

How many blubs do you really need? 2 or 3?

[w10d]

really i'm going to use the diffusion panels for medium items since some of the object don't all fit the tent. would it be a good idea to have 3. on on both side and the back, and have the light from the back and maybe side


OK, this is a big subject, if you want to photograph one particular type of object then answers can be more specific, but if you intend to shoot a wide range of still lifes then you need a wide range of lighting techniques. Start by thinking how you will be able to position your objects. An open scaffold type desk is ideal, you can swap between clear, translucent and opaque surfaces, and use paper for a scoop if needed. Continuous light sources may be too hot to use underneath for backlight... The number of lights depends on what you are doing (obviously), but 3 will give you plenty of options.


Do you think 500 watt is strong enough for a large object lets say 1 meter in size?

How many blubs do you really need? 2 or 3?

Strength of the light is not as important as how controllable it is, especially with still life where exposures can be long. I'd say most people shoot SL with flash as it is so flexible - and assuming you have a full blackout, you can increase your exposure with multiple flashes.

I suggest you have a look at these objects with your camera; look at how much DoF you will need as a guide to the sort of exposures you must shoot at, also consider just how large a space you require for backgrounds and lights before you start buying anything (apart from a good photography book)

;)

[Avarond]

Coming from a Prepress background I noticed you mentioned something about using white as a background because it doesnt leak into the subject when you "cut it out". The best way in my opinion is to use the path tool in Photoshop and create a clipping path and then save as an eps. Be sure when you create the path that you go just inside the outer pixels on the subject and the background will not leak into the subject as you say. Hope this helps, its time consuming but you will have a nice looking image with smooth edges when you are done.

[dreamer]

i c.

well with flashes, many say that with digital camera it can "flood" the image. I am using a digital camera so would it still be recomended.

also how about using a "cool lite on small object?

[dreamer]

ahh also, would you know any providers of these equipment? What are the cost rang of these equipment, i;ve seen 500wat from $100 to $400+

[dreamer]

just one more thing. i still like using continuous lighting. if it is too strong or overexposed would it be good to use a "cool light"?

[w10d]

i c.

well with flashes, many say that with digital camera it can "flood" the image. I am using a digital camera so would it still be recomended.

also how about using a "cool lite on small object?

Who says this, and what exactly are they saying???

I think flash is the most widely used light source in most areas of studio photography - regardless of film or digital.

You could light a small object with anything - depends what you want to achive/have available/know how to use. (All 3 being important).

I rarely shoot SL - the last time I did it for a client I was using the same equipment I had been using to shoot a model for them. The objects ranged from a gold plated pen to a wide screen TV... It wasn't the equipment that made the pictures, but how it was used.

[w10d]

just one more thing. i still like using continuous lighting. if it is too strong or overexposed would it be good to use a "cool light"?

100ASA, 1/4000 sec, let's say f11... I don't think over-exposure will be an issue :)

[dreamer]

ahh ok... very cool! ok well thanks alot. sure did shed light on the issue. got a clearer view.

thanks for all the suggestions!

[flyfishnj]

Feb 2004 shutterbug gives an excellent lesson on how to photograph objects and eliminate reflections

http://www.shutterbug.com/columns/0204sb_lesson/

[VicGlass]

Dreamer,

I am in the process of building a studio in my house, and consequently have spent many hours researching what is needed. The purpose of my studio will be to photograph people and "objects' as you put it. I've just finished my initial purchases, totaling $2500. The purpose of this post is to list what I have and what I purchased, and why. I hope this information will help you decide what and what not to buy.

Camera Body: I own a Canon EOS 10D ($1500). I chose this over the Canon EOS Rebel DSLR because it is better built, has more functionality and is a professional camera. If I had unlimited funds I would buy the new Canon EOS 1 Mark II ($4500).

Lens: I own the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM ($1300) and the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II ($70). Wow! That's really a difference, isn't it! "Buy the best glass you can afford." The 24-70 is just that. But the 50mm is an amazing buy because it is excellent glass in a cheap, plastic enclosure. I believe that the 50mm lense will be sharper than the 24-70 @ 50mm! If I had unlimited funds I would also buy the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM ($1600).

L Bracket: Really Right Stuff L-Plate for the Canon EOS 10D camera ($140). I choked when I paid $140 for this little bracket. However there was no choice (for me). It really allows the camera to go from a horizontal to a vertical orientation on the tripod the best way. And a lot of portraits will be shot in with the vertical orientation.

Tripod: Gitzo G1325 MK2 ($507) with Markins M10 Ball Head ($352). Wow! $859 for a tripod and head! However by doing this I saved $700. How? $700 is how much I would have spent on cheaper equipment before I realized that I need a tripod and head that did the job properly. Expensive glass is pointless if the image will be ruined by cameral shake.

Remote Switch: Canon RS-80N3 for the !0D ($50). This is a must if a tripod is used. This is a remote release cable that allows the camera shutter to be triggered without touching the camera.

The above is the prelude to the lighting setup.

Flash Meter: Sekonic L-358 Flash Master ($220). When shooting in a studio the in camera light is never used. Instead readings are taken with a flash meter (the L358 will also meter hot lights since it is also takes incident and reflective readings). I must underline that a light meter is essential.

Studio Strobes: 4 Alien Bees B800 monolights ($280*4 -> $1120). I know you'd prefer to use hot lights. But strobes are really the way to go. Each monolight can be adjusted down from full power so there isn't too much flash (that's the point of taking a meter reading). Generally I intend to use one monolight for the key, one for the fill, one for the backdrop and one for hair. You could actually get away with one light for the key and a reflector for the fill if you want. If I has more money I would have bought 4 White Lightning X800's because they are more durable.

Reflectors: Photoflex 5-in-1 DiskLite with stand ($169). Many people make their own relfectors. For example a large pice of white foamcore will work, or an aluminum pie pan. if you're working by yourself the stand is indispensible since their is no one to hold the reflector. Often a reflector is used for the fill light.

Light Stands and Booms: two Bogen 3078 Light Stands ($160), one Bogen 3059K Backlight Stand with adjustable pole ($39), and one Alien Bees Boom arm ($70). A stand is needed for each strobe used. In your case if you use one strobe and one relfector then you only need one light stand (as well as a stand for the reflector). It is important that the light stand be well build and capable of holding whatever weight you put on it. The Bogen 3078s are terrific - they can hold about 20 pounds, are real solid. The Back Light stand is very low to the ground and is used to hold the strobe that lights the backdrop. The boom can be attached to one of light stands and allows a strobe to be placed over the subject. You'll find this handy for lighting your "objects". When photographing people the boom is often used with the hair light.

Soft Boxes: one Photoflex 36"x48" Multidome ($240) and one Photoflex 24"x32" Multidome ($180). Softboxes are used with the strobes to create soft lighting that is desired in portraits. You can use these for "objects" too. Softlights can produce both "high key" and "low key" portraits. An alternative to softboxes (and cheaper) are diffusion panels (see lightingmagic.com/difpanel.htm). Also relective and shoot through umbrellas are cheap. I chose the soft boxes because with them there is more control of the light and less light spill. I will probably end up getting an diffusion panel eventually. If I hand infinite money I would buy Chimera soft boxes, and more soft boxes in different sizes.

Backdrops: one Home Depot 9'x12' paint drop cloth ($13) and one Walmart black king size bed sheet ($15). If I had infinite money I'd buy already made backdrops and a lot of them.

Backdrop Holder: strip of wood nailed to ceiling with four hooks that hold four alligator clips. Total cost about $8. If I had infinite money I'd still use this backdrop setup but buy a portable backdrop support for use outside of the studio.

Here are some information that will help you get up to speed:
http://www.tallyns.com/techtips.htm
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1025&message=7351593
http://super.nova.org/PhotoClass/index.html
http://www.lottsphoto.com/Exposure&LightingTechnique.htm
http://ephotozine.com/equipment/buyersguide/fullbuyersguide.cfm?buyersguideid=26

If you need more advice or feedback, just shout.

[rushang]

That's amazingly thorough information! Thanks!

I've been in photography for some time (and have been casually reading the posts on this forum), but your thorough response forced me to create and account and post a Thank You. :)

The information you've posted will help many others, such as myself.

[Bruce Hamilton]

I chose this over the Canon EOS Rebel DSLR because it is better built, has more functionality and is a professional camera. If I had unlimited funds I would buy the new Canon EOS 1 Mark II ($4500).
Both cameras have the same identical 6.3 megapixel Digic chip. Check the specs at Canon's web site, about all I see different is the black magnesium body.

[TeraGram93013]

Both cameras have the same identical 6.3 megapixel Digic chip. Check the specs at Canon's web site, about all I see different is the black magnesium body.
You didn't look hard enough.
One major difference between the two: The 10D has mirror lock-up.
There's other differences as well.

[Tom W]

Both cameras have the same identical 6.3 megapixel Digic chip. Check the specs at Canon's web site, about all I see different is the black magnesium body.
You didn't look hard enough.
One major difference between the two: The 10D has mirror lock-up.
There's other differences as well.

Pentaprism -vs- penta mirror
Flash exposure compensation

There's a couple. The digic chip is the processor, not the sensor, and I'm not sure that its identical. I suspect that the actual sensor is, though I don't know that for a fact.

[VicGlass]

I chose this over the Canon EOS Rebel DSLR because it is better built, has more functionality and is a professional camera. If I had unlimited funds I would buy the new Canon EOS 1 Mark II ($4500).
Both cameras have the same identical 6.3 megapixel Digic chip. Check the specs at Canon's web site, about all I see different is the black magnesium body.

Bruce,

You've got a point. It may not make sense to pay $600 more just for a black magnesium body. And at $899 for the body, the Digital Rebel sure is tempting.

However there are quite a few differences between the two cameras which are thoroughly stated at this URL: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos300d/

It's probably not a bad idea for our 15 year old compatriot to buy the Rebel instead of the 10D since it will suit his purposes now and for another reason. The 10D has been out for a while now, and by the time our friend is ready for another camera he can get the next generation and use the Rebel as a backup.

[VicGlass]

This is a follow up to my equipment list, FYI.

I returned one of my four Alien Bees B800s. Reasons: (1) my ceiling is too low for a boom (7.5 feet) and this light was for the boom, and (2) three B800's seemed enough for now anyway.

I exchanged the Sekonic L358 meter for a Sekonic L558. Reason: I became aware of how important a spot meter is (see the book "Perfect Exposure: Jim Zuckerman's Secrets to Great Photographs"). The L558 is very expensive, $499, but I feel that getting a correct exposure is critical.

I returned the Alien Bees Boom Arm. Reasons: (1) my ceiling is too low for a boom (7.5 feet), and (2) the AB Boom is too cheap.

I returned the AB Wired Remote. Reasons: (1) don't need more wires to trip on, and (2) if I need it and when I can afford it I'll get a wireless remote.

[PhotosGuy]

About 40 years ago, "Popular Photography Mag" gave several pros a Brownie Hawkeye (still have one!) which was a simple box cam preset at about 1/60 sec & f-16. They ALL came back with nice stuff.

There's a lot of good answers here, but the bottom line is you need 3 basic things; clients, talent, and a cam. A lot of some & a few of each of the others. Then, find the clients that want you take the kind of pics that you love to take, & you'll never be sorry.

[VicGlass]

If you are not still using your Brownie for most shoots, perhaps you can share with us what equipment you currently use and the rationale behind your choices. sleeper seems to have a client already and needs solid advice about equipment. Although his talent level is unknown, he seems to have plenty of drive.

[PhotosGuy]

;-) ;-D ROTFL!
OK, I'd use it if it was relevant to the job at hand. I've used cams from 8X10 to 35mm. I've even used a cam with just a filter for a lens. What we all use has very little to do with what he might need & that's why I said, "find the clients that want you take the kind of pics that you love to take…". Presumably, if he's taking "pics that you love to take…", he'll have found out what he needs to take them. He's 15. He has time. What he buys now may not have anything to do with what he needs later. He has a 300D & if he uses it a lot, he'll get a better idea of what he really needs. When I was 15 I thought I knew what I liked. That changed as I gathered experience.
"What cam should I use?" is as relevant as "What kind of vehicle should I buy?" Car? Bus? ATV? Maybe only a canoe would be appropriate if he moves to an island in the future! Only he can make that decision & what I drive doesn't enter into it.

But, to answer your question, I currently have a 300D, Nikon FTNs (5 lenses), A Bronica S (4 lenses - this is 2-1/4 X 2-1/4 format), a Century Graphic (2-1/4 X 3-1/4 + 2 roll film backs), a JVC KY-R15 video cam w/docking S-Vhs deck, and of course, the venerable Brownie + about a ton of gadgets & accessories. They were all, except for the first Nikon, bought because my needs changed AT THAT TIME.

So, for now, I suggest that he USE his 300D a LOT.
I suggest that he READ a LOT. Goto: www.ephotozine.com/index.cfm and look at the "Techniques" & "Freelance" links.
Finally, I suggest that, if he wants to be taken seriously by his clients & everyone else, that posting something like "I c what you mean. Thats my motto i never waste money on course. I always like to expirement.", isn't going to help his credibility! At least get a word processor with a spellchecker for a start. Punctuation check would help, too. (I mean that in a nice way!) The old cartoon showing two dogs where one says, "On the net, you can't tell that I'm a dog!" only holds true 'till a person reads that sentence.

Again, good luck, "dreamer". I'm looking forward to seeing some of your work in the future.