Bought a Hoya CP filter, better than heliopan or b+w ?

[The REBELion]

I picked up a Hoya muti coated CP filter today. I wasn't ready to dish out $160 for the Heliopan, and the guy told me that b+w does not have one that's multi coated. Did I make a smart decision? Hows the quality compared to the Heliopan? Also I have been looking to upgrade to a better UV filter and I've heard the the B+w's are the best as far as UV's are concerend. Is this true? thanks

-Jon

[michael_]

um o just purchased a B+W and its multicoated so ... i also invested in B+W UV Filters for all my lenses, i get them next week so ill repost with info.

[Tsmith]

and the guy told me that b+w does not have one that's multi coated.

If he actually said that then he doesn't need to be selling filters ... :rolleyes:

Hoya's (Super Pro1 and Digital Pro1) are right up there with the top of the line.

[jr_senator]

If for no other reason (and there are others) I only buy Heliopan or B+W because the rings are brass instead of Hoya's aluminum, which will seize to the lens (as aluminum does).

[Jon]

Hoya has several lines of multicoated filters, starting with the lowest, HMC and going on up from there. However the salesman lied to you, is terminally ignorant, or doesn't stock B+W filters, about B+W; their basic multicoated line is the MRC range, which is at least as good as Hoya's SHMC (second-level multicoated) line. I'm standardizing on B+W MRC in UV and polarizers for my lenses.

[Lester Wareham]

I picked up a Hoya muti coated CP filter today. I wasn't ready to dish out $160 for the Heliopan, and the guy told me that b+w does not have one that's multi coated. Did I make a smart decision? Hows the quality compared to the Heliopan? Also I have been looking to upgrade to a better UV filter and I've heard the the B+w's are the best as far as UV's are concerend. Is this true? thanks

-Jon

That is rubbish both B+W and Heliopan have both single coat and multicoat filters. Hoya have single coat and two grades of multi coat. The top end of all three manufactures seem to about the same although many folks will have preferences for one over the other.

I have summary info from the manufactures webs here http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/LensTests/Flare/FilterData.htm

The important thing to look for is how low the reflectance is.

[Lester Wareham]

If for no other reason (and there are others) I only buy Heliopan or B+W because the rings are brass instead of Hoya's aluminum, which will seize to the lens (as aluminum does).

I keep hearing this but I have not had an aluminium filter be more that finger tight on a lens even if they have been on there since 1980.

I am beginning to think it is hype. No one can seem to justify it metallurgically.

I am happy for someone to correct me with a science based explanation rather than just regurgitating marketing material.

[jr_senator]

I keep hearing this but I have not had an aluminium filter be more that finger tight on a lens even if they have been on there since 1980.

I am beginning to think it is hype. No one can seem to justify it metallurgically.

I am happy for someone to correct me with a science based explanation rather than just regurgitating marketing material.

Ah, man. As a former auto mechanic I can assure you than aluminum does seize. At the counter of most auto parts stores one can find small packets of 'Anti-seize Compound' for sale. It is reccomended (and rightly so) when dealing with aluminum. Try screwing a spark plug, or head bolt into an aluminum block without using it.

[Woolburr]

Ah, man. As a former auto mechanic I can assure you than aluminum does seize. At the counter of most auto parts stores one can find small packets of 'Anti-seize Compound' for sale. It is reccomended (and rightly so) when dealing with aluminum. Try screwing a spark plug, or head bolt into an aluminum block without using it.

I agree with you whole-heartedly. It becomes more of an issue as the threads wear too...brand new with the coating still on the threads, you might not stick a lot, but as it wears and the actual metal becomes exposed...you can expect to have seizing issues as the two dissimilar metals can begin to react to each other. Brass is relatively non-reactive, which is why you see it commonly used in plumbing fixtures.

[jr_senator]

This site speaks of the "One draw-back to using aluminum is the relatively high friction..." and "...brass is used... owing to its anti-seizing properties."

http://209.85.165.104/search?q=cache:ddbC2P75nBMJ:www.mellesgriot.com/pdf/CatalogX/X_20_15-16.pdf+aluminum+seizing+properties&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=opera

Hope this helps.

[Lester Wareham]

Ah, man. As a former auto mechanic I can assure you than aluminum does seize. At the counter of most auto parts stores one can find small packets of 'Anti-seize Compound' for sale. It is reccomended (and rightly so) when dealing with aluminum. Try screwing a spark plug, or head bolt into an aluminum block without using it.

Elevated temperatures and corrosive materials - not too relevant. :)

I agree with you whole-heartedly. It becomes more of an issue as the threads wear too...brand new with the coating still on the threads, you might not stick a lot, but as it wears and the actual metal becomes exposed...you can expect to have seizing issues as the two dissimilar metals can begin to react to each other. Brass is relatively non-reactive, which is why you see it commonly used in plumbing fixtures.

OK this sounds a bit more sensible and would at least be consistent with there being no problem with filters left in place for 27 years with no ill effect.

This suggests to me there is some justification in getting brass for polarizers but not for protective filters that are never or very rarely removed.

Naked Aluminium oxidises almost immediately in air from memory, so I can see a logic that abrading the oxide off might allow a cold weld to form between two aluminium faces.

However I am not sure these things would actually be pure aluminium, they are probably some alloy but it probably still applies.

Good one.

[jr_senator]

Elevated temperatures and corrosive materials - not too relevant.

Huh? I didn't install spark plugs or head bolts at elevated temperatures. Aluminum seizes, it's the nature of the metal (soft).













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[Lester Wareham]

Huh? I didn't install spark plugs or head bolts at elevated temperatures. Aluminum seizes, it's the nature of the metal (soft).


But the engine runs quite hot and anything will cold weld with enough pressure. ;)
Don't take it too seriously, I'm not meaning to be offensive.

Anyway, I think I can see a rational for the brass/al issue from Woolburr that fits the situation and my own benign experience.

[Tsmith]

I keep hearing this but I have not had an aluminium filter be more that finger tight on a lens even if they have been on there since 1980.

I am beginning to think it is hype. No one can seem to justify it metallurgically.

I am happy for someone to correct me with a science based explanation rather than just regurgitating marketing material.

user error ... :rolleyes: ... we ain't talking about super high rated temps here.

[The REBELion]

I guess I better clarify, the salesman said that B+w doesn't make multicoated CP filters. He said they do make them for other types of filters though. I think I am going to go with the B+W UV filter next. Thanks guys

[Jon]

Well, I've got 4 B+W MRC CPs that say they do. See also here (http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=989).

[michael_]

I guess I better clarify, the salesman said that B+w doesn't make multicoated CP filters. He said they do make them for other types of filters though. I think I am going to go with the B+W UV filter next. Thanks guys

calrify? you said it in your original post no need to clarify. The Salesperson had no idea as they clearly have Multicoated filters it was the main reason i purchased their CP