Does this device "really" work ...?

[DOrtiz]

Hi Everyone!!

http://digitalphotographers.net/LS2PJ/LS2ID.jpg

I ordered it and have mixed feelings relative to using my 580EX with the catch-light card raised and flash pointed straight up. It seems I get better results (better exposure) that way than with the light sphere attached.

Can you more experienced users tell me (and others) if this device actually works, when would be the best time to use it, how you use it, etc..
Any tips, personal experience, etc.. will be humbly appreciated.

Regards,
Dave

[cdifoto]

It does what it was designed to do. It doesn't perform miracles. There are some pretty heated threads about this particular device already. A little searching goes a long way. As far as how/when to use it, Gary Fong's website tells you that.

[DOrtiz]

It does what it was designed to do. It doesn't perform miracles. There are some pretty heated threads about this particular device already. A little searching goes a long way. As far as how/when to use it, Gary Fong's website tells you that.

Thanks for the reply my friend. I already have it and it "seems" I get better results using bounced flash with my catchlight card extended on my Canon 580EX as opposed to using the lightsphere.

Here are a few examples... using bounced light and the catch-light card extended at a halloweeen party ... don;t remember how to impose the images here.. :-(

http://k41.pbase.com/o5/88/335988/1/69519146.Sl4xzEpt.IMG_0403.JPG
http://i5.pbase.com/o5/88/335988/1/69519147.eoVR9cyL.IMG_0405.JPG
http://k53.pbase.com/o5/88/335988/1/69519154.p2RC80Vd.IMG_0411.JPG
http://i5.pbase.com/o5/88/335988/1/69519177.JVKrC4T6.IMG_0431.JPG

I often wonder if had I used the lightsphere if I would have illuminated more of the shadowed areas. This post is mainly intended to see of anyone has some secrets for using this device which I may have missed on Gary's site or on the CD which comes with the product. :(

[cdifoto]

It's a rather controversial product. Run some tests on your own to see if you think it makes a difference. Set up a tripod and the same exact scene with the same exact camera settings, lens, focal length, etc and try bounced, bounced w/catchlight card, and lightsphere. It'll become more apparent.

And as I said before...search the forum and you'll find lots of opinions on it.

[DOrtiz]

OK, thanks again for your valued feedback my friend.

Regards,
Dave

[cdifoto]

No problem. I take a neutral stance these days on this thing. :) I had the first incarnation of it and sold it off not too long after.

[SkipD]

All of the "tupperware" diffusers require nearby reflective surfaces - typically white walls and/or ceiling - to function effectively. If you don't have those surfaces to reflect the light back toward the subject, the net result is a lot of lost light from the flash source. The reason is simple - the diffuser spreads the light in all directions. Any light that never reaches the subject is lost.

[DOrtiz]

I understand Doug ... just wondering if in situations with very high ceilings (black or dark ones at that) if having such a device (with the dome on top attached) would prove beneficial.

Regards,
Dave

[Yella Fella]

doesnt his video even suggest that the light produced from the device gives a better result than controled studio lights?

[Wilt]

I understand Doug ... just wondering if in situations with very high ceilings (black or dark ones at that) if having such a device (with the dome on top attached) would prove beneficial.

Regards,
Dave

No. It would just waste light in that circumstance, and cause the flash batteries to run down sooner!

[Curtis N]

Dave,
The link below contains a video that explains the theories behind various flash bouncing/diffusing devices. It might be worth watching.
http://abetterbouncecard.com

The idea behind most of the various attachments sold for hotshoe flash units is to direct some of the light toward your subject while letting the rest bounce off the ceiling. In my mind, the most valuable and versatile of these attachments are the ones that allow you to control the ratio of direct light vs. bounced light, and do it with some degree of efficiency.

Work to understand the basic theories behind lighting, and you will be better able to choose the right equipment and techniques for a given situation.

I'm not a big fan of the Gary Fong products. I don't think they're worthless, but I do believe that a photographer who understands the physics and aesthetics of lighting can use cheaper, more compact and more versatile devices and create effects just as good.

[jr_senator]

It is a pricy piece of crap.

[poloman]

I have the Lumiquest Pro-Max System that I am really happy with. But I can't keep my lunch in it on the way to a shoot! ;)

[Headcase650]

LSII is a tool, you dont use pliers to tighten socket head cap screws. The LS will do everything in the videos on the Fong site under the same conditions in the video. The thing isnt ment to do everything. Of the example pictures you posted from your party I think the pic of the man in the straw cowboy hat would have benifited from the LS over the catch light card, filling in the shadow from his hat better making a more even exposure. The larger the light source the softer it will be, weather it a clowd filled sky vs direct sun or the LSII vs the catch light card on your flash. After saying all that I have really come to like the ABetterBounceCard. Ive been using it more than anything lately.

[Titus213]

It works in certain instances. It doesn't work in others. I still use my original LSII and get good results with it. But as has been mentioned, you will be better off overall if you learn how to use light, period. Light can be bounced, reflected, diffused, and direct and all provide different qualities and results.

[sapearl]

People seem to have a love-hate relationship with this thing. Although I've never used it myself I know folks in both camps.

I guess it does what it's designed to, within limitations. I won't buy one though - nothing against, just very happy with my Lumiquest products like poloman. I only buy gear that I'll use on a pretty regular basis.... don't like to weigh the bag down with "extras".....

[SkipD]

I, too, use the LumiQuest Promax System (http://www.lumiquest.com/lq931.htm). It is extremely versatile in that you can bounce 80% of the light off a nearby ceiling or reflect it all (off a fairly large surface) toward the subject, add a diffuser for a small soft-box effect, and even add silver or gold reflectors for effect. The whole thing folds down and stores - with all the accessories - into a nice thin wallet that stuffs easily into most any camera case.

[René Damkot]

Here (http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/pg005.html) is acomparison (with images) of a few light modifiers for flash.
You need to log in, but it's worth it.

[Croasdail]

The LS is designed to create smooth lighting and soften harsh shadows by difusing the light in all directions using surrounding surfaces for the light to bounce from. If you don't have good surfaces to bounce the light from, it's effeciency will be very limited. Conversly, the images you posted are very contrasty, which is neither good nor bad. It is just a lighting effect. Using a dome difuser will create much softer lighting, but much less pronounced catch lights as well. Now you can also get very nicely difused lighting by simply bouncing your flash as well - naked, but be aware the light may pick up a stronger color cast directly bounced rather then difused then bounced. It's an issue at times, not so much other times.

Bottom line, all the approaches create unique lighting if used properly. When and how to use them is up to the photographer. There is no one single right answer.

[RangerRick]

I like the Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer. All the light is going forward. (I'm very seldom shooting with my back up against a white wall... well, at least with a camera anyway... <sly grin>)

I just added a couple of quick pics to an earlier post that shows why.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=271889

Shoot straight... and grin more!:D