View Full Version : Hinder//Ft. Wayne, IN//2.1.07
jtfdzn
3rd of February 2007 (Sat), 16:06
I feel like I'm going backwards lately, the images I actually like are few and far between -- these are the ones I like OK, but I was strugglin'. What metering mode do you all use? I usually use spot, but it wasn't working out at this show for some reason, and they were moving to fast for me to do an exposure lock....Not sure; My shutter speeds were generally slow and unusable as far as motion blur, or too fast and underexposed most everything. Let me know what you all think.
1.70-200@100 ISO 1000 F/3.2 1/250 Partial Metering -1EV
http://jtfdzn.zenfolio.com/img/p187247229-4.jpg
2.17-55@17 ISO 1000 F/3.2 1/320 Partial Metering -1EV
http://jtfdzn.zenfolio.com/img/p85813025.jpg
3.17-55@28mm ISO 1000 F/3.2 1/80 Partial Metering -1EV
http://jtfdzn.zenfolio.com/img/p235934336-4.jpg
4.17-55@33mm ISO 1000 F/3.2 1/400 Partial Metering -1EV
http://jtfdzn.zenfolio.com/img/p167188290-4.jpg
5.17-55@20mm ISO 1000 F/3.2 1/100 Partial Metering -1EV
http://jtfdzn.zenfolio.com/img/p259234821.jpg
6.17-55@17mm ISO 1000 F/3.2 1/40 Partial Metering -1EV
http://jtfdzn.zenfolio.com/img/p228238897-4.jpg
7. 17-55@55mm ISO 1000 F/3.2 1/400 Partial Metering -1EV
http://jtfdzn.zenfolio.com/img/p368623932-4.jpg
René Damkot
3rd of February 2007 (Sat), 16:38
Some nice images nevertheless...
On the metering: In Av, I use either Evaluative, or spot coupled to the active AF point on the 1D2. Both with EC as needed. In manual mode, I use partial, since then, I tend to do the thinking ;)
DwightMcCann
4th of February 2007 (Sun), 12:37
Unlike Rene, I never do anything thinking while shooting. I use 1D2's, spot meter coupled to AF point and five brackets 2/3 stop apart in Av mode and would pray if I was religious. I keep about 1-3% of my images. These are nice but I think you tilt your camera ... I do, too.
livewire-photography.com
4th of February 2007 (Sun), 14:37
3 5 and 6 are really cool why 3.5? i just use AV and spot now with Af.
Really good set.
johnstoy
4th of February 2007 (Sun), 22:19
The lens needs some contrast to establish the best shooting formula... These are real dark shots... no wonder you had some problems... While the f/2.8L's are great for High Resolution... it's still 2.8... consider comparing your results with a real fast prime lens...shooting at f1.2 or f1.4 helps a lot in low light...you have some of these primes in your sig...
Your composition is pretty good while your framing follows... Keep posting here and let us see how you'll progress...
jtfdzn
5th of February 2007 (Mon), 15:28
Thanks for all the responses. I'd love to have a 1D2 for the af/spot metering, I rarely use the center AF point...
Finger Eleven opened at this show and I shot a lot of that at 2.8 and they were moving so much that if my lens would lock on, the DOF would put part of the face OOF. Drove me nuts. I can't really complain about the lights, there were plenty, but the location of them and where the band members were moving was the problem for me. I caught plenty of light at 3.5 (when they were actually IN the light) but the metering kind of killed it for me.
I will have to post up some B&W conversions of a few of these shots, I like them much better -- problem is the venue wants full-color or nothing. I'm shootin' Sevendust this Thursday so I'll bring the primes along and see what happens. Does anyone know if the Sigma 20mm 1.8 is very sharp? I've been in the market for a fairly wide prime.
Thanks again guys.
johnstoy
5th of February 2007 (Mon), 17:29
Thanks for all the responses. I'd love to have a 1D2 for the af/spot metering, I rarely use the center AF point...
Finger Eleven opened at this show and I shot a lot of that at 2.8 and they were moving so much that if my lens would lock on, the DOF would put part of the face OOF. Drove me nuts. I can't really complain about the lights, there were plenty, but the location of them and where the band members were moving was the problem for me. I caught plenty of light at 3.5 (when they were actually IN the light) but the metering kind of killed it for me.
I will have to post up some B&W conversions of a few of these shots, I like them much better -- problem is the venue wants full-color or nothing. I'm shootin' Sevendust this Thursday so I'll bring the primes along and see what happens. Does anyone know if the Sigma 20mm 1.8 is very sharp? I've been in the market for a fairly wide prime.
Thanks again guys.
I pixel peeped, by enlargement and magnification...the Sigma 20 mm 1.8 and 30mm 1.4 and compared it to the Canon 50mm 1.4 and the Canon 85mm 1.8 lens...At high magnification the resolution was better with the Canon lenses...While the "L" glass was even better. I returned my Sigmas and bought the "L" 's.
René Damkot
5th of February 2007 (Mon), 18:06
IMO the longer lenses will allways be sharper then the wides (regardless weather Canon or Sigma), since they are a *lot* easier to develop... The EF 28/1.8 is also less sharp then the 85/1.8...
That being said, I have the 20/1.8 and the 20-35L. I think they are about equal on the same aperture.
The sigma does have it's flaws (corner sharpness wide open obviously, silly AF/MF arrangement: switch *and* push/pull ring).
Good review here (http://www.prime-junta.net/pont/Reviews/a_Sigma_20_f1-8/a_Sigma_20_mm_f-1.8.html).
johnstoy
5th of February 2007 (Mon), 19:14
IMO the longer lenses will always be sharper then the wides (regardless weather Canon or Sigma), since they are a *lot* easier to develop... The EF 28/1.8 is also less sharp then the 85/1.8...
That being said, I have the 20/1.8 and the 20-35L. I think they are about equal on the same aperture.
The sigma does have it's flaws (corner sharpness wide open obviously, silly AF/MF arrangement: switch *and* push/pull ring).
Good review here (http://www.prime-junta.net/pont/Reviews/a_Sigma_20_f1-8/a_Sigma_20_mm_f-1.8.html).
Your comparison of the wide angle lenses could be very true regarding the Sigma Wide Angle and the Canon 85mm.
However,
I did find the "L" 's at wide, medium and long to be sharper than the non "L" 's. The pixels of photos taken by non-L's, broke up sooner upon enlargement than the "L" 's.
A very best-top shelf medical microscope has the same characteristics...Highest resolution comes from the highest quality grade glass... therefore affording the best, quality of magnification and no distortion... and the "L" 's on my 24-70mm and the 70-200mm 2.8L IS, regarding finite detail, easily have it over the lesser, non-L's. I don't have the 16-35mm 2.8L lens yet.
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