Cokin Circular Polarizer P164..or hoya MC

[brunester]

so i want a polarizer for my sigma 24-70 but the 82mm multi coated ones cost bank, does the Cokin Circular Polarizer P164 work ok? what would the differences be?
thanks

[Moppie]

I'm also rather interested to know how the Cokin P series CPL works in terms of quality.

[brunester]

mmmm........bump?

[Wilt]

Generality: A multicoated filter will transmit more of the light (rather than reflecting it) compared to an uncoated or single coated filter. The light which reflects rather than transmits can result in flare and lost contrast in the photo.

If the Cokin is not supermulticoated, under the right conditions it will have inferior results to a more expensive supermulticoated filter.

[brunester]

Generality: A multicoated filter will transmit more of the light (rather than reflecting it) compared to an uncoated or single coated filter. The light which reflects rather than transmits can result in flare and lost contrast in the photo.

If the Cokin is not supermulticoated, under the right conditions it will have inferior results to a more expensive supermulticoated filter.
well i guess ill bite the 60 dollar bullet....better than a 200 dolloar one lol
thanks for the response :D

[Moppie]

$60 bullet?
hmmmm, Iv seen a Cokin CPL filter here for about US$50, I had better check its genuine.
I know the holder I have is a copy, but my Graduated ND4 is real.

[brunester]

ahhh 60 buxs was a guesstimate on my part

[dazzlebea]

ahhh 60 buxs was a guesstimate on my part

Your guess is pretty close. The Filter Connection (www.2filter.com (http://www.2filter.com)) sells the P version for $65, that is $4 cheaper than B&H.

[olz]

I have the Cokin Circular Polarizer and the only good thing that I can say about it is that it fit all my lenses... t's very unhandy in use.

[Moppie]

... t's very unhandy in use.


Is that an ease of use problem?
i.e. its hard to turn, or a quality problem?

[olz]

Is that an ease of use problem?
i.e. its hard to turn, or a quality problem?

The polarizer is situated in the crack nearest to the lens, and the crack is too tight to turn the "wheel" without turning the whole filter holder. This is irritating when using the polarizer and say a graduadede neutral density filter. Most of the time though I don't use the polarizer combined with a GND, so instead of turning the pol-filter itself, I just turn the entire filterholder.

[Moppie]

Cheers olz, I don't have a problem turning the whole holder, but I can certianly see the issue with useing it with ND grads, which is the whole reason I got a Cokin system to begin with.

[olz]

Cheers olz, I don't have a problem turning the whole holder, but I can certianly see the issue with useing it with ND grads, which is the whole reason I got a Cokin system to begin with.

No problemo... another issue to consider when stacking polarizers and GND's is that the polarizer won't be the first glass to be hit by the reflecting sun. This decreases the effectivity of the polarizer (as i understand - someone please correct me if I'm wrong).

The functionality/ease of use problem described above can be tolerated if you approach it systematically. When using these filters you aren't exacly using a PJ-photographic approach anyway. I always 1) position and frame the scene, 2) correct the GND position, and finally 3) turn or insert the polarizer (sometimes i hold the polarizer to my eye to decide the desired effect, before inserting in the holder).

Not the easiest way to work, but in a weird way it generates some thoughts about your subject at hand, instead of just doing the trigger frenzy... :D

[Moppie]

I would only be useing it for landscapes, and planned shots of cars etc. Basically situations where planned set up of the shot is required :)

I can see how a graduated ND would effect the CPL, other than adding another layer of glass/plastic and the problems that creates with flare etc.