IS lens info

[JZaun]

I understand that a IS lens will help stabilize the movement to the lens but will it help stabilize the movement of the subject? A bird for instance? I am trying to get pic's with a Canon 100-300 usm 4.5-5.6 lens. I use a tripod with remote trigger but I just cannot stop the action in many shots. If I set the speed fast enough there is not enough light,, same old story. If I have to buy a better lens I am now ready but don't want to buy "2 or 3" :D

Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks for any info?

JZaun

[Scottes]

IS helps the lens, not the subject. IS is great for getting a shot in low light, or for getting more DoF in not-so-low-light.

But if a small bird is flying you're going to need 1/500th or faster. If 1/500th at f/5.6 produces underexposure then IS won't do a thing to help. IS would let you get down to 125th at f/5.6 for the same shot, but you're going to get blur or ghosting because of the slow shutter speed.

And IS doesn't help on a tripod (unless you spend $6000).

You could spend $1100 on a 30mm f/4 with IS and you'll get an extra stop and much better image quality. Or go $3800 for a 300mm f/2.8.

But now look at your DoF. A 300mm at f/2.8 with a subject 12 feet away yields about 1/2" of DoF. f/5.6 brings that up to 1.1".

Your best bet might be to push up the ISO and spend a lot less money on Noise Ninja or some other noise-reduction software.

[Cadwell]

You can always try cranking the ISO to give you an extra stop or two (and deal with the noise penalty in software later) but when it comes down to it, there's really no substitute for fast glass.

To answer your question... IS is there primarily to deal with camera shake and as such works on the WHOLE image. It doesn't "stop motion" in the same way that a high shutter speed would do in freezing the water droplets in a fountain, for example.

[iwatkins]

Probably blasphermy, but what about using a 550EX ?

I guess it all depends on the range involved.

Cheers

Ian

[randyk]

Probably blasphermy, but what about using a 550EX ?

I guess it all depends on the range involved.

Cheers

Ian

One of the nature web sites had an article about a special flash for wildlife, they seemed impressed with it.

[Scottes]

One of the nature web sites had an article about a special flash for wildlife, they seemed impressed with it.

The Better Beamer? http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/better_beamer.shtml

I just got one for my 420EX, but it's not even close to a perfect fit so I have to jury-rig something. They do make one for the 550EX. I'm pretty impressed with it from the things I've seen - I can't wait to use it.

[CyberDyneSystems]

Flash is by no means "blasphemy" for nature shots,. all the pros use them.

For the ranges in question though, the "Better Beamer" is a must indeed. :)

[kb244]

Rather than an IS lens, you might want to think about something like an L series glass, with the 2.8 maximum aperture throughout, allows great ammount of light, and the L lens is sharp. probally something like a 70-200 2.8L or 100-400 2.8L , if you are trying to do distanced, and somewhat fast nature photography. But thats just my opinion, i'm not a professional nature photographer or anything.

[kb244]

By the way , the L lens is expensive if you havent already noticed.

[nosquare2003]

Rather than an IS lens, you might want to think about something like an L series glass, with the 2.8 maximum aperture throughout, allows great ammount of light, and the L lens is sharp. probally something like a 70-200 2.8L or 100-400 2.8L , if you are trying to do distanced, and somewhat fast nature photography. But thats just my opinion, i'm not a professional nature photographer or anything.

There is no 100-400/2.8L lens, as far as I know. Anyway, I agree to buy a large aperture lens.

[MarkH]

By the way , the L lens is expensive if you havent already noticed.

I'm wondering who WOULDN'T notice? :lol:

But getting top quality is hardly ever cheap, it's the price you pay for something to be made well as opposed to being made as cheaply as possible.
:o