View Full Version : John Fleck at the Tulsa Little Theatre
winkie
11th of March 2007 (Sun), 15:04
first time attempting performing arts... shots taken with my 70-200. there are more shots at http://kimberlydawn.net/fleck
1.
http://kimberlydawn.net/fleck/filtered/IMG_3023_filtered.jpg
2.
http://kimberlydawn.net/fleck/filtered/IMG_3009_filtered.jpg
3. He was Silik in Star Trek: Enterprise
http://kimberlydawn.net/fleck/filtered/IMG_3139_filtered.jpg
4.
http://kimberlydawn.net/fleck/filtered/IMG_3147_filtered.jpg
5.
http://kimberlydawn.net/fleck/filtered/IMG_3119_filtered.jpg
6.
http://kimberlydawn.net/fleck/filtered/IMG_3197_filtered.jpg
René Damkot
11th of March 2007 (Sun), 15:38
#4 is nice. Could be cropped a *bit* tighter to remoce the 'blob' in the lower left corner.. WB is off though, and shutterspeed seems to be on the slow side...
winkie
11th of March 2007 (Sun), 16:08
what is a good shutter speed for indoors?
johnstoy
12th of March 2007 (Mon), 02:45
Your 70-200 is fast at 2.8... however I wouldn't borderline shutter speeds.... there is usually constant motion in performing arts...
While aiming for the eye, I'd determine needed aperture for the depth of field desired to get the subjects in focus...that includes instruments, arms, legs, elbows, noses and chins, etc. and then determine what speed will compliment the needed aperture...
Winkie, I'll let someone who knows the exact terminology for the shutter speed formula explain it to you...
However, here is an off the cuff explanation.. an example of minimum shutter speed would be: a 50mm prime lens, hand held on a full frame camera would require a minimum of 1/50th of a second... a 100mm prime lens would require 1/100th... Now with a 1.6 crop camera, the minimum shutter speed would need to be proportionate at 1/80th and 1/160th of a sec...
however, it is my belief that since a zoom lens is long, than I'm of the opinion that on my 70-200mm, I would want a minimum of 1/200th on a full crop and 1/320th on the 1.6 crop camera... I'm also not comfortable with my 24-70mm f2.8 lens because it zooms out as it gets wider. so to be safe I would want at least a 1/70th on a FF camera and at least 1/112th of a second on a 1.6 crop camera... Since the shutter speeds are in specific increments, it would be wise to go to the next higher shutter speed...
winkie
12th of March 2007 (Mon), 12:27
oops, I forget to factor in the 1.6x crop. most of my shots were at least 1/200. fooey. on another note, do you typically correct white balance, or leave it as seen (ie the red and yellow stage lights)?
johnstoy
12th of March 2007 (Mon), 13:17
oops, I forget to factor in the 1.6x crop. most of my shots were at least 1/200. fooey. on another note, do you typically correct white balance, or leave it as seen (ie the red and yellow stage lights)?
So far, I find it a lot easier to shoot in RAW and correct the lights in PP... It does take me a lot of time though... It's still pretty new to me...
bmoguy
12th of March 2007 (Mon), 14:35
on another note, do you typically correct white balance, or leave it as seen (ie the red and yellow stage lights)?
There was a bit of discussion here about color correcting in perofrmance art photos (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=254352). On the question of WB here, the spot light looks pretty white in #2, but yellowish in #3 on. Was it a different color in the other pictures? Even if it was, it looks off compared to #2. I've come to the conclusion that unless the lighting is really important in conveying they show to those viewing the photos, I correct it. Obvious example, a school play in a gymnasium where the lighting has a yellow cast. Ultimately it's up to you and what you want the photos to convey.
CanonXTuser
12th of March 2007 (Mon), 14:43
Colors seem off and desaturated. Focus looks soft in all of them.
Take a look at some others stuff to see how you think yours compares.
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