-=Post Processing Tips=- Share your's!

[Jmurman]

We spend a great deal of time talking about photography tips, lets use this thread to talk about Post Processing tips.

Please post your tips on Post Processing.

Lets start from the download of the memory card to picture printing.

What works for you? What doesn't?

[CoolToolGuy]

I download using a card reader to a new directory named 'CF9999-99-99' where the 9s are the date. From that point on, I use those files to start from, and I never save in that directory. That way I always have my originals.
I have thought about the download software like Downloader Pro, and I may get there, but I haven't seen the need yet. The most important thing to me is to protect my originals.

Have Fun
Rick 8)

[Houch]

I download all my pictures straight to CD using a Apacer Disk Steno. That way I only use 1 CF card and always have the original on a CD for backup.

[Conk]

I download using a card reader to a new directory named 'CF9999-99-99' where the 9s are the date. From that point on, I use those files to start from, and I never save in that directory. That way I always have my originals.
I have thought about the download software like Downloader Pro, and I may get there, but I haven't seen the need yet. The most important thing to me is to protect my originals.

Have Fun
Rick 8)

Same here.

[CyberDyneSystems]

Jmurman had an Idea that this become the semi-official post processing "Tips Sticky Thread" :)

So lets' have all your best Ideas here.

WORK IN LAYERS:
One tip I'd recommend every one learn early is to work in layers in PS or your favorite app that supports layers.

I have found the use of layers infinately flexible. I create a duplicate layer of the background the moment a file is opened in PS.

Any levels adjustments,. contrast, saturation.. all are done to the copy layer leaving the original untouched. This way I can both alter the opacity of the changes made to achieve a perfect incremental change if the adjustments happen to take things "too far", and I can localize the adjustment by using the eraser tool to "erase" part of the adjusted layer, leaaving the adjustments only where I want them.

One I am satisfied with the base Image levels and colors,. I wil flatten the image and then make another duplicte layer before applying any noise reduction or sharpening.

This way I can use the eraser tool to "erase" any sharpening to areas I would like to leave out of focus,. or erase any blurring that might occur durring noise reduction to specific areas where I need to keep all the details (eyes,. textured fabrics,. hair or feathers as the case may be :) )

Learn to use layers! :)
You will be amazed how much it helps as you explore the many tools available in Photoshop.

[Jmurman]

I have Scott Kelbys book on PS Elements. He shows how to use layers. This is the kind of thing that is most helpful....hands on info!

Keep em coming!

[scottbergerphoto]

When I have question on post processing that I can't figure out, I post a question here (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=34) and Maderito or Roger Cavanagh usually answers it.
regards,
Scott

[BigRed450]

This is my standard WORKFLOW.....

I download all images to my HD from a card reader using Canons Zoombrowser which will automaticall make dated folders in a file I designated as 10D images. I then burn those originals to CD.

Each image is then cropped if required, using the crop tool with predefined size and with the resolution box left blank. PS will adjust the DPI to that size without the loss of quality and pixels.

Then I batch process "ALL" my 10D images through the following PS Workflow action.

Make DUPLICATE COPY
USM: A- 125 R- 1.5 T- 1.0
FADE>LUMINOSITY: opacity 100% (sharpens only the luminosity channel)
LEVELS: bring left slider to the edge of the histogram, bring right slider to the edge of the histogram. Adjust center slider to proper brightness.
CONTRAST: +5
SATURATION: +20
SAVE: save processed copies to a diferent Folder

Further adjustments are then made using layers on a image by image basis if/when required.

A question was raised in another thread about doing USM as the last step rather then the first, however I believe more quality and detail is saved by performing the USM before levels, contrast, and saturation adjustments.

Try this process out and let me know what you think......

[evilenglishman]

How to "watermark" your images in PS CS/7

The easiest way to do this is to do the following:

1. open your photo.
2. click on the text tool.
3. Type your text.
4. In the layers pallette set fill to 0%
5. go to Layer/layer style/bevel and emboss...
6. Set bevel how you want it.

done.

You can also add gradients, shadows, stroke and add patterns to your text

[mpkirby]

For those who haven't tried it:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/contrast-enhancement.shtml

Local Contrast Enhancement is simple and great way to give the shots a pop. I've been using it quite a bit.

Basically, set USM to (A-20, R-50, T-0) before you do your last sharpening pass.

Colors will pop a bit, and that haze that sometimes exists in pictures will often fade.

Mike

[Laziferous]

This is a follow-up post regarding the processing done to the photo posted by Jewel in the Critique Forum. Here is her original file, then what I did to try and correct it, followed by a link to the .psd file containing all of the layers if anyone wants to look at it. Lastly, the steps performed to get the end result you see.

It's much easier to work on larger files, and the web output would've been much better. This was only the quick and dirty way, and I'm sure there are many other better ways to bring about even better results. The steps I used were just for this particular photo, which will vary with each image. I hope this helps someone 8)

Before...
http://images.fotopic.net/?id=3815938&outx=600&oq=0

After...
http://gallery.bytephoto.com/data/3065/6CRW_0247_RT8.jpg

Link to download the .psd file (4.23mb, so beware):
http://home.comcast.net/~pottajava/CRW_0247_RT8.psd

Steps used to get this result:
1 - Duplicate background layer, set blending mode to multiply (background copy 1)
2 - Duplicate background layer, set blending mode to multiply (background copy 2)
3 - Add layer mask to background copy 1, use black, and preferred brush size (soft round) to paint original background back in, by painting around the heron, but not touching it. May have to use a smaller brush to get in the tight spots.
4 - Adjust opacity of background layer 1. In this case it's 74%.
5 - Add layer mask to background copy 2, use black, and preferred brush size (soft round) to paint original background back in, by painting around the heron, but not touching it. May have to use a smaller brush to get in the tight spots.
6 - Adjust opacity of background layer 2. In this case it's 94%.
7 - Duplicate background layer, set blending mode to multiply (background copy 3)
8 - Duplicate background layer, set blending mode to multiply (background copy 4)
9 - Adjust opacity of background layer 4. In this case it's 70%
10 - Add new adjustment layer for levels. Set levels to:
black - 34
gray - 1.27
white - 243
11 - Flatten image, and save in desired format.

[Scottes]

I use Capture One for processing RAW files, and it doesn't compress the TIFFs it creates. So I'm out of disk space, look at my drive and see that I have 190 TIFF images taking 4.4 GB of space!

Make it a habit - compress the TIFFs. One test showed a 38 meg file going down to 4.3 meg when compressed. LZW is now a lossy compression algorithm, so click an extra button and re-save them compressed.

[Jesper]

This is probably interesting for advanced users: an article about how to use the Calibrate tab in Adobe Camera Raw to get accurate colors from your digital camera while converting your RAW images:

http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/21351-1.html

Especially if you have more than one camera, you can create calibration settings for all your cameras, so that you'll have consistent color between the cameras.

[cpc1225]

This is my standard WORKFLOW.....

LEVELS: bring left slider to the edge of the histogram, bring right slider to the edge of the histogram. Adjust center slider to proper brightness.


I believe you will get a fix input value when you record this action, batch process other images with this will feed the fix value to all images.

Correct me if I am wrong.

[BigRed450]

That is correct cpc1225, however by clicking on the palette window beside the the recorded "Levels" in the action the Levels dialogue comes up with each image allowing you to adjust the levels as needed.

[ForrestC]

In a nutshell, my tip would be to remember that it's one big, long process. A good photograph starts before you click the shutter, with the tripod you use, the exposure you set, what lens you use ( if that's a choice you get to make ). Expose depending on what you can do in Photoshop, not what the LCD looks like.

I have a more detailled totorial here, with sample photos. (http://valhallaphotos.com/html/Articles/Workflow.htm)