Studio aperture

[matt1987]

Hey y'all.
I just recently switched to digital EOS and still have some lenses that are non-digital. Yet, I can use them w/ wide open aperture (2.8 in this case) if I don't stop them down.
Now when I shoot indoors (studio strobes) I normally use f/11-f/14 with ISO100 and decent shutter speeds. Since the amount of light of the strobes/flashes is way to much to use 2.8 aperture, won't I be able to use my lens anymore? Or is there a way to get around it?

[GyRob]

ND filter springs to mind :)
Rob.

[TMR Design]

Hi Matt,

I would agree with Rob about using ND filters to reduce the quantity of light and allow you to use larger apertures. You can also use light modifiers like Barn Doors to control the quantity of light as well. With Barn Doors you can have any quantity of light from 100% all the way down to 0.

[FlashZebra]

Hey y'all.
I just recently switched to digital EOS and still have some lenses that are non-digital. Yet, I can use them w/ wide open aperture (2.8 in this case) if I don't stop them down.
Now when I shoot indoors (studio strobes) I normally use f/11-f/14 with ISO100 and decent shutter speeds. Since the amount of light of the strobes/flashes is way to much to use 2.8 aperture, won't I be able to use my lens anymore? Or is there a way to get around it?
Sounds like you have some older Sigma lens with an EOS mount.

Some may still be able to be modified by Sigma to work properly. If Sigma still has parts, they will do this modification for free. But, on many of these lenses they no longer have the needed replacement parts.

Contacy Sigma with an exact description of the affected lenses and they will inform you immediately if they can make the upgrade.

Again, if they have the parts, the upgrade is free.

If Sigma cannot make the upgrade, it is likely your lenses will be of little value. Moving an F/2.8 lens to an F/11 lens with neutral density filters on the lens will net a proper exposure, but you will have a grand fit trying to focus a lens that nets a viewfinder so dark.

Choking your flash down to work by neutral density filters for the flash would work. But if you can work at F/2.8 why even bother with electronic flash. At ISO 400, F/2.8, and about 1/60 second should get the job done in most living areas without the need for electronic flash.

Enjoy! Lon

[matt1987]

thanks to all of your suggestions! it indeed is an older sigma; i'll try that updating-option.
if that doesn't work.. i'll try the ND filter. Are those expensive? I'd need one w/ 72mm diameter

[FlashZebra]

thanks to all of your suggestions! it indeed is an older sigma; i'll try that updating-option.
if that doesn't work.. i'll try the ND filter. Are those expensive? I'd need one w/ 72mm diameter
Going with a ND filter on the lens will be a real mistake. To go from F/11 to F/2.8 will require a neutral density filter of 4 stops. This will net a very dark viewfinder that will be especially difficult to work with, autofocus will likely not work.

I think the neutral density suggestions were for gel type neutral density filters to choke the intensity of the flash units.

Enjoy! Lon

[Curtis N]

I'm confused about several things.
Do you really want to shoot at f/2.8?
What exactly are these "non-digital" lenses? Why can't you stop them down?
Don't your strobes have adjustable power?

[FlashZebra]

Going with a ND filter on the lens will be a real mistake. To go from F/11 to F/2.8 will require a neutral density filter of 4 stops. This will net a very dark viewfinder that will be especially difficult to work with, autofocus will likely not work.

I think the neutral density suggestions were for gel type neutral density filters to choke the intensity of the flash units.

But, did you get a kit lens like a 18-55 with you new Canon digital? If so just use that in the studio. Working at F/8 or F/11 with this lens will net optical quality far sharper than typically needed for images of human beings. And the zoom range will be fine for most studio work with human beings.

Enjoy! Lon

[FlashZebra]

I'm confused about several things.
What exactly are these "non-digital" lenses? Why can't you stop them down?

Curtis,

A common malady of older EOS mount Sigma lens on newer Canon digitals is they will only function wide open. The autofocus works, but if you set any aperture other than the maximum for that particular lens, it locks up the camera. Pushing the stop down button also nets the same lockup.

I am not quite sure why this has been termed “non-digital”, but that was not my designation. In fact ,most of these Sigma lens that give the newer Canon digital fits, work just fine on Canon's early digitals like the D1, D30 (not 30D), and D60.

The OP is evidently trying to use a lens that has this malady, and he is stuck on F/2.8

The big lesson here is beware of older EOS mount Sigma lenses.

Enjoy! Lon

[Curtis N]

Thanks, Lon.

I'm thinking that a proper lens would be a better route than trying to make do at f/2.8 . I realize that there are times to use wide apertures in a studio, but even a "nifty fifty" would prove far more versatile.

[matt1987]

I think the neutral density suggestions were for gel type neutral density filters to choke the intensity of the flash units.
ah, okay!! never heard of ND filters for flash units..

Do you really want to shoot at f/2.8?
What exactly are these "non-digital" lenses? Why can't you stop them down?
well i love this lens.. it's a really old sigma lens that was build to fit the non digital EOS system (in my case the EOS650). If one tries to fit them on a digital EOS body (i.e. 400D) they will only work in AV or M mode (which doesnt bother me), though you can only use them with open aperture, namely 2.8! there's no way to stop it down, as you'll get an Error99.

Don't your strobes have adjustable power?
Yes they do, but I doubt that I can make them output so little power that I can shoot at f/2.8

But, did you get a kit lens like a 18-55 with you new Canon digital? If so just use that in the studio. Working with this lens at F/8 or F/11 with this lens will net optical quality far sharper than typically needed for images of human beings.
is it really? i have that lens lying around here somewhere, it's just that I thought I could use the Sigma as I really like it.

maybe just throw it onto the 650 body and leave it on there. for those times I will be shooting film...



//edit: I just tried it out. I can indeed reduce the flash power to make it so little that it will properly expose at f/2.8.. amazing :D

[TMR Design]

Yes, my original suggestion of using ND filters was not for the lens, but for the strobes themselves. This would allow you to shoot at any aperture you want, whether at f/2.8 or f/8.

[FlashZebra]

is it really? i have that lens lying around here somewhere, it's just that I thought I could use the Sigma as I really like it..
Note that I indicated the 18-55 at F/8 or F/11 woulds be plenty sharp for images of human beings.

Perfect sharpness for images of human beings seldom please.

So if you are accustomed to using F/8 or F/11 in your studio, the 18-55 will give you that utility and net a sharpness that is just fine for the purpose.

Note that this is a very qualified use of the 18-55. At F/8 or F/11 it is difficult to find a lens that really disappoints.

Enjoy! Lon

[matt1987]

omg thanks to all of you, especially londuck. all of this helps so much :)

[Curtis N]

I believe some of those old Sigma lenses can be rechipped to work with current cameras. If you like it that much, you may want to check with Sigma about that.

[matt1987]

Sounds like you have some older Sigma lens with an EOS mount.

Some may still be able to be modified by Sigma to work properly. If Sigma still has parts, they will do this modification for free. But, on many of these lenses they no longer have the needed replacement parts.

Contacy Sigma with an exact description of the affected lenses and they will inform you immediately if they can make the upgrade.

I believe some of those old Sigma lenses can be rechipped to work with current cameras. If you like it that much, you may want to check with Sigma about that.

Yea, I just sent them an email :)

[FlashZebra]

I believe some of those old Sigma lenses can be rechipped to work with current cameras. If you like it that much, you may want to check with Sigma about that.
I often see this reffered to as being "rechipped" but with my discussions with Sigma this is not a very accurate description.

Typically they replace a small circuit board in the lens that contains several components. This board has to be soldered in. It is not just a chip replacement.

The underlying issues are typically firmware confusion and/or issues surrounding electrical current provided to the mechanisms for the lens (like the current required to stop down an aperture).

Enjoy! Lon

[matt1987]

wow you seem to be knowing a lot about this stuff...

[FlashZebra]

wow you seem to be knowing a lot about this stuff...
I know no more that what one conversation with a Sigma lens repair technician offered.

When I called Sigma they immediately linked me with a lens repair technician that offered the info I presented above.

I called about 2 years ago.

Enjoy! Lon

[matt1987]

well then:

wow, you've got a good memory... :) thanks :D