Advantages of SpeedLite 550 over 420

[PekkaM]

I'm planning on buying used SpeedLite 550 for my Canon 300D. I remember reading that there was some good reasons for getting a 550 for 300D as it fills in some missing features on 300D but I cannot remember what they were.

A short list of what I get with 550 compared to 420 on 300D would be nice.

[ryleung]

The most obvious benefits would be:

1) the extra power output from the larger guide number
2) FEC (flash exposure compensation) is available from the 550EX, but not from the 420EX. This is especially useful on a 300D because the 300D doesn't come with FEC.
3) Manual flash output control is available from the 550EX, but not the 420EX
4) custom functions are available on the 550EX, but not on the 420EX
5) 550EX can act as both the wireless flash master or slave, but the 420EX can only be a wireless slave

I'm sure other members can think of additional reasons.

-Rick

[mikeg]

There is a wide angle reflector also useful for portrait shots.
You can bounce the light on the ceiling and thanks to that reflector send a small part of the light directly to the subject.
I always use it like that for portait shots.

[PekkaM]

There is a wide angle reflector also useful for portrait shots.
You can bounce the light on the ceiling and thanks to that reflector send a small part of the light directly to the subject.
I always use it like that for portait shots.
That comes with the flash or is bought separately?

[PhotoSlacker]

Its built into the head of the flash and can slide in and out.

[PekkaM]

Well I got the flash and there sure is a lot to learn with this ;)

Does this allow me to use 2nd curtain sync with EOS 300D? I somewhere read that only 10D allows it, not 300D, but does 550EX enable this too?

[thom@s]

Does this allow me to use 2nd curtain sync with EOS 300D? I somewhere read that only 10D allows it, not 300D, but does 550EX enable this too?
With a 420EX and a 10D, you should be allowed to use 2nd curtain and exposure compensation ; but not a 300D/Rebel.
With a 550EX, you have these two options (ans others !) even on a 300D/Rebel ;)

[clos]

Well I got the flash and there sure is a lot to learn with this ;)


Indeed there is a lot to learn but don't let that discourage you. WIth the ETTL system on all you need to do is set on your 300D in manual mode dial in your desired aperature and shutter speed and practice practice practice.

You will love your new tool.

Enjoy!

-Clos

[PekkaM]

What about ISO settings when using this flash? Should I always try to go for 100 if possible?

It seems that AV mode is pretty bad choice when shooting indoors in low lite with flash. It suggests shutter speeds from 1/4 to 1/2 of a second when 1/60 seems to be enough. Of course if there is a background to be exposed, it would be just fine to have a longer exposure.

[robertwgross]

What about ISO settings when using this flash? Should I always try to go for 100 if possible?

It seems that AV mode is pretty bad choice when shooting indoors in low lite with flash. It suggests shutter speeds from 1/4 to 1/2 of a second when 1/60 seems to be enough. Of course if there is a background to be exposed, it would be just fine to have a longer exposure.

It depends on the effect you are trying to achieve.

My own personal rule of thumb is to shoot flash at shorter distances with a relatively low ISO number, like 100 or 200. As I move into a larger space and have to cover longer distances with the flash, I move up to 400. I only go to 800 or more if it is an extreme case with a very long distance to the subject, or if the subject is very dark. If you shoot a piece of black velvet, you need all of the flash light and sensor sensitivity that you can get.

---Bob Gross---

[MarkH]

What about ISO settings when using this flash? Should I always try to go for 100 if possible?

It seems that AV mode is pretty bad choice when shooting indoors in low lite with flash. It suggests shutter speeds from 1/4 to 1/2 of a second when 1/60 seems to be enough. Of course if there is a background to be exposed, it would be just fine to have a longer exposure.

I always shoot ISO 100, unless I need higher. With the flash you can get more range if you shoot higher ISO, so use 100 unless you need to increase the flash range.

AV mode isn't needed, use M instead. Using the flash in auto (E-TTL) you can set the shutter speed and aperture and let the camera decide the flash strength.

[mjordan]

My own personal rule of thumb is to shoot flash at shorter distances with a relatively low ISO number, like 100 or 200. As I move into a larger space and have to cover longer distances with the flash, I move up to 400. I only go to 800 or more if it is an extreme case with a very long distance to the subject, or if the subject is very dark. If you shoot a piece of black velvet, you need all of the flash light and sensor sensitivity that you can get.

---Bob Gross---

With black velvet, black fur or hair or most other black material, if you throw some side lighting on it, you will get the detail that shooting directly into it won't give you. When you flood it with light, you won't really bring out the detail as well.

Mike

[manncer]

8) 8) 8)

This may help: http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

manncer

[mjordan]

Interesting article on the flashes, Manncer. Thanks for providing the link.

I have the Sigma 500 Super and have for about a year. I bought it as a cheap way to get flash for my D30 and then my 10D. Other than playing with it a little, I've not had any reason to use it until last week when I used it with my 10D. I knew about the limitations and problems with getting correct exposure shot after shot and sure enough, I ran into those. Some of my shots were correctly exposed, some were under and some were over. I kept a close eye on the LCD and histogram so I knew when it wasn't correct or even close. I had to dial in 1.5 -fstops in the flash to get a correct exposure.

I decided after that shoot that I am going to be getting the 550ex. Even if I don't use a larger flash very often (and I probably would if I knew it would work all the time) having the 550ex will probably be worth it when I do need it.

Mike

[Cordell]

Interesting article on the flashes, Manncer. Thanks for providing the link.

I have the Sigma 500 Super and have for about a year. I bought it as a cheap way to get flash for my D30 and then my 10D. Other than playing with it a little, I've not had any reason to use it until last week when I used it with my 10D. I knew about the limitations and problems with getting correct exposure shot after shot and sure enough, I ran into those. Some of my shots were correctly exposed, some were under and some were over. I kept a close eye on the LCD and histogram so I knew when it wasn't correct or even close. I had to dial in 1.5 -fstops in the flash to get a correct exposure.

I decided after that shoot that I am going to be getting the 550ex. Even if I don't use a larger flash very often (and I probably would if I knew it would work all the time) having the 550ex will probably be worth it when I do need it.

Mike

Mike, you are saying that you have not used your Sigma much but you are having problems you heard about prior to your purchase. I heard the same issues with Canon flashes too. Please don't read this with :x I'm not attempting to be critical, but how familar are you with the flash itself and your technique in combination with your 10D? I ask because you may just run into the same issues with the Canon if you do not use it enough to understand it. I'm no expert at all, but I do believe in knowing your equipment before moving on and blaming it. As a matter of fact the Sigma instruction manual is one of the worst I've ever read. I even have a post on this board asking for help in understanding a portrait setup using the flash.

Cordell

[slin100]

Cordell is absolutely right. Getting the 550EX isn't going to help if one's technique is not correct. One needs to understand the peculiarities of ETTL.

Besides, the 550EX is only about 1/3 to 1/2 stop more powerful than the Sigma, so it's not going to be putting out significantly more light.

[Haifidelity]

Canon's E-TTL Flash Technology can be a hit or miss if you don't under stand it. The best way that I can get consistent Flash Exposures is using the FEL (Flash Exposure Lock) on the 10D.

- Aim the center focus sensor on say, the face of your subject, (you should have the * lock icon in the viewfinder) and then focus, recompose and fire the shot.

The only downside is that it will emit a small flash to meter the shot, which can confuse the subject. :(

-hza

[mjordan]

:D I supose it sounds like my technique could be in question with the Sigma flash, but I know of it's problems because I worked with the guy that I bought it from to help him run a lot of tests with his D30. I didn't just buy it and stick it in the draw and not use it until last week. I knew it was going to act the way it did because I'd seen it asking that way under a lot of test shots. I bought it because I knew if I needed a bigger flash than the on camera flash, but I didn't want to lug around my old Vivitar 365 and battery pack or setup my mono lights, I could always use the Sigma in manual if e-ttl just didn't work at all. It does work sometimes, just not with every shot. And true, the 550ex acts up as well, but it's a lot more reliable and compatable than the Sigma.

Now that doesn't mean I know everything about e-ttl either. I don't as I have rarely used it since I got my D30 and then 10D. So if you want to defend the Sigma, that's ok. I understand. :lol:

Mike