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View Full Version : Lens hood and uv filter for 17-40 L


mikeg
9th of April 2004 (Fri), 15:55
Hello,

As I'm looking for a wide angle lens for my D60, I've finally decided to go for a 17-40 L instead of the 12-24 sigma.
Now my question is : do I really need a lens hood on the 17-40 ?
All my other lenses are equipped with lens hoods. But when I saw its hood I'm wondering if it is really necessary (I mean it's so small)
Last question : what kind of UV filter do you use ?
I've got a B+W on my 70-200 IS which is excellent.
Is the canon as good as B+W's ?

Thanks for your inputs :wink:

MikeG

KennyG
9th of April 2004 (Fri), 16:12
Hello,

As I'm looking for a wide angle lens for my D60, I've finally decided to go for a 17-40 L instead of the 12-24 sigma.
Now my question is : do I really need a lens hood on the 17-40 ?

Yes, WA's are more prone to flare.

All my other lenses are equipped with lens hoods. But when I saw its hood I'm wondering if it is really necessary (I mean it's so small)

Remember, it was designed for FF 35mm, so the hood is a bit shallow when used with a 1.6 or 1.3 FOV camera. However, it is good enough for most circumstances.

Last question : what kind of UV filter do you use ?

None. I never use them anyway, but on WA lenses they can vingette and the front element is very close to the filter threads of the 17-40L which means you would have to use a very high quality, MC, very thin filter. If the only purpose is to protect the lens, then my view is the hood would do a better job and introduce less problems (but it is my view and I know there are vociferous filter supporters out there to convince you otherwise).

Cadwell
9th of April 2004 (Fri), 16:23
Whilst I am not going to enter into the debate about whether filters are a good or a bad thing, I will say that vignetting is not a problem on the 17-40L/10D combination - perhaps due to the 1.6 crop factor which I believe the D60 shares. It may be a problem on bodies with fuller frame sensors.

One point of interest is that the 17-40L manual states that the lens isn't fully sealed unless a front filter is fitted...

slin100
9th of April 2004 (Fri), 16:45
I use the EW-83DII (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=162042&is=REG) hood for the 24/1.4L and a Hoya UV(0) Super HMC (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=94134&is=REG) filter on the 17-40.

KennyG
9th of April 2004 (Fri), 17:16
Yes, I know what the manual says, but I think you have to be very careful in picking the right filter. Looking at where the filter threads end and how close the bottom one is to the front element, you not only need a thin filter, but a one with enough thread behind it to keep some distance fom the glass (I'm looking at one in my hand right now). Screwing on the wrong style filter could damage the front element or be so close it could introduce the newtons ring effect. One of my 77mm CPL's would certainly crash against the glass.

I can see vignetting with my 1D. Have not tried it with my 10D yet. Wife is happy with it on her 300D. No front/back focus issues, it is sharp wide open and about 1,000% better than her Sigma 15-30. What more can one ask.