Monopod Test Results

[Mike H]

Some time ago I posted a message asking about people's experiences using a monopod. Specifically, I was hoping someone could tell me how many steps slower I could go on the shutter speed by using my new 70-200/4L with the tripod adapter and a monopod.

I've run some very simple tests and now have data to pass along. Note that how slow you can go will always be dependent on technique, so there should be differences among individuals, and results should improve with practice.

Without the monopod, shooting at 1/250 gave me consistently good results no matter what focal length I had the lens set. Below that the results were more mixed, with some mushy throw aways, especially when zoomed out to 200mm (320mm equivalent on a 35mm camera).

With the monopod, I was able to get more than half of the shots acceptably sharp at 1/80, according to the EXIF information. At speeds above 1/80, the results were even more encouraging.

My conclusions are that even a beginning monopod user can consistently get about a one stop improvement using the monopod, and that with practice, an experienced user can likely do better (I'll continue testing as I improve and let you know).

Is it worth the just over $200 cost of the monopod and tripod/monopod ring combination? For me, the answer is yes. You really should have a monopod anyway if you have long lenses, and the tripod adapter for this lens is really terrific. Also, it beats the price of getting the $1600 IS lens, which is quite a bit heavier. For photographing small children when they are running and playing--when setting up a tripod is useless--this is just what I needed. When taking portraits of adults, the wonderfully easy to use adapter will come in handy with the tripod.

The monopod should be most useful for scenics, since taking multiple shots to cover the occasionally mushy frame is easy for those. For portraits, you run the risk that when the perfect expression finally comes along, you aren't as steady as you need to be. My suggestion is to shoot a lot of frames to cover yourself. If you can't accept that risk, there's always the IS lens. :roll:

I hope someone finds this information useful.

Mike

[Flyball Rebel]

Thanks Mike, very useful. Regards [F.R.] :)

[Whaler]

I too just purchased a monopod for my 70-200 f/4. It makes a world of difference. In addition, just loosen the tightening screw on the tripod ring and go from vert to horz in a heart beat. :D

[CyberDyneSystems]

Thanks for posting this experience Mike. Very helpfull.

Prior to buying my first LOOOOOONG lens,. (Sigma 50-500mm) I had harldy ever had reason to use my tripod...

However,. when I got the 500mm.,.. I walked out of the Camera shop with the lens,. and a Manfrotto Monopod.

I have 500mm shots taken at 1/60th that are keepers.

Good monopod technique is a god send :)

[Scottes]

Good monopod technique is a god send

Got any tips? I just got one last week and plan on using it in the AM chasing some birds and stuff.

[John_T]

I have a Manfrotto 676B with a 484 ball head that I really, really like. It's just the size and weight I don't mind carrying anywhere and usually have it with me wherever I shoot.

It is not often that I use it fully extended. I adjust the length for sitting, crouching, on a stone or wall, raising the camera high, over a cliff, whatever. But how I use it most is with the unextended leg clamped under my arm and the ballhead set to an angle whereby I can just raise the camera to my eye and swing around by the torso. The neckstrap can also be used as a tensioned counter brace. I find this gives me much stabler shooting, whether tracking something moving, macro, or still.

[toglenn]

I have found bracing the Monopod makes all the difference between success and failure.

I use a hip pack (worn in the front) that has tripod carrying straps beneath it. I slide the monopod horzontally through a strap and then twist the monopod vertically. Applying a little pressure against the ground contact gives me a very steady mid point brace which works well using a 1000mm scope lens.

toglenn

[tarves57]

I have a Manfrotto 676B with a 484 ball head that I really, really like. It's just the size and weight I don't mind carrying anywhere and usually have it with me wherever I shoot.



John, is this the "junior"? Sounds good, particularly since it's very compact at 18" when closed, small enough to stick in a backpack and not too heavy either. I think I'll get myself one. (And I've been looking at all sorts of monopods recently). Thanks for the recommendation.

Susan

[John_T]

No Susan, this is from Mafrotto's (Bogen's) new line of lighter weight stuff for "digital cameras". They call this one the "digi 676B". I find it just right, the right heft to balance the camera, the right length, and the extentsion clips work precisely and hold very tight, no slipping here.

I chose the 484 ball head 'cause it matches and balances well with the stick and can handle up to 4 kilos. The adjustment lever is ratcheted so you can reposition the lever for a better position to tighten or loosen. Vertical slots left and right. Smooth operation. Of course if you're using a big tele, you will probably want something bigger.

[tarves57]

Ah yes, found it at Warehouse Express. I have to say that it looks suspiciously like the Junior in other online stores and has the same specifications, not to mention being £3 more expensive.

But anyway, one last question.... If you have the monopod under your arm or in a belt pocket, surely that is only going to be as steady as you are and might still have a lot of movement?

I think I'll also go for the 484 head that you chose, although the quick release might also be useful (mainly that I don't fancy carrying a "camera on a stick"). I mean when you are out shooting, how do you carry it? Or do you not move about much? (unlike when I am birding, I walk about quite a lot).

Having said that, it costs nearly twice as much as the monopod! In your opinion, would the 676b wobble with a 10D + 300mm lens on it? (total weight is 2.29kg).

Much appreciated
Susan

[John_T]

This is the monopod:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=314122&is=REG

The head:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=272987&is=REG

Technically 2.29 kg is within spec. (4 kg). Practically, with the lens cantilevered out there, I don't know how well it will hold or how much you will have to crank the ball tight. Perhaps CDS could tell you better in that he has a lot of experience. It's also a matter of taste. Some people prefer overkill, while some don't want to kill themselves lugging stuff around (me!).

The 676B certainly doesn't wobble and has a very small amount of flex which I like. You might want the 484RC2 head for quick release to carry the camera and stick seperately, though it will make it all a bit little longer and a bit more top heavy. And cost you a little more time clappping it all together.

Stick and head weigh 600g. With your camera mounted you will be toting 2.89 kg. Though some would frown on it, I carry it all with camera mounted on my shoulder like an axe, always ready to shoot as I walk around. The whole thing with camera mounted will be around 70 cm long, stick closed. I also stow it camera down in a backpack with the stick poking out a bit, ready to be pulled out in a flash.

You can adjust the ball and twist the camera to an offset angle that makes it just right when you raise the camera to your eye. With the closed stick clamped under your right arm, right hand operating the camera and your left hand/arm bracing, holding the lens, tensioning the neck strap, or whatever, you can swing around and up and down from the waist. You pretty much eliminate the instability of hands and arms, and if you have steady legs, you have a much stabler base to shoot from, including birds in flight and macro. Otherwise you need a shoulder stock or go back to a tripod with a slick expensive head. On the extended stick, it will be as steady as you are.

Good heads are expensive and well made. If you want to change the cost ratio, he-he, look at Carbon One.

[tarves57]

With the closed stick clamped under your right arm, right hand operating the camera and your left hand/arm bracing, holding the lens, tensioning the neck strap, or whatever, you can swing around and up and down from the waist. You pretty much eliminate the instability of hands and arms, and if you have steady legs, you have a much stabler base to shoot from, including birds in flight and macro.

I was getting a bit worried there. I couldn't imagine how to hold the stick under the arm and still be able to focus/hold the lens with my left hand. I now realise it's my other left arm I should be using.... :)

Thank you for such a lengthy explanation. It's been VERY helpful.

Susan

[John_T]

It's easy and natural once you get the hang of it. The most fiddly thing is getting the camera offset and angle right and clamping it tight. I came up with this technique out of necessity tromping around in jungle and rough terrain in 98% humidity and 36 C. You don't want to set up anything and keep moving before the mosquitoes catch up with you again. Smackdammit!

[Belmondo]

I've carried both a monopod and a tripod, and have generally shunned using either; they just seemed to kill the spontaneity of the moment. Recently, however, I’ve been using the monopod more and more, and enjoying reasonable success.

One thing I’ve discovered is that with the monopod mounted but not actually supporting the camera (not touching the ground) the camera is still more stable than without it. The weight of the monopod reduces ‘wiggle and twitch’ in handheld shots. I believe the effect is even more enhance with heavier monopods, so don’t pay extra for carbon fiber.

Also, I have a telescoping walking stick that looks something like a monopod except it has a handle more like a ski pole. I’ve actually used it as a camera support for some shots. I use the BG-ED3 grip on my 10D with the E1 hand strap installed. By loosening it slightly, I can create enough ‘wiggle-room’ for my right hand to allow me to hold the camera and the walking stick. It’s not quite as solid as a monopod, but it’s a definite improvement over nothing. There are combo monopod/walking stick available, but I’m happier with the walking stick as an improvised camera support than I would be trying to use my monopod as a walking aid.

[John_T]

I find this monopod quite a good walking aid, in that it locks so tight and is really sturdy and light, though sooner or later the tip would wear out. Another monopod I had save my neck a couple of times. Landed fully on it once while climbing on relatively fresh volcanic rock, cuts like razors, only a couple of scratches on me and it. Another time when I had the impression four guys were about to mug me, I extended the stick full out, held it like a weapon and turned around in a confronting stance. They looked away and went away.

[tarves57]

I had the impression four guys were about to mug me, I extended the stick full out, held it like a weapon and turned around in a confronting stance. They looked away and went away.

Now that's a good point... :lol:

Susan

[Scottes]

Yep, and with a decent ball-head on a monopod you have one hell of a weapon. I know that *I* woudn't want to be hit by one.

[nosquare2003]

It's quite personal on using monopods: some like ball heads, some like headless, and some (I) like tilt head. And I find several ways of using monopod:

http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo5.php3

And I'm using Option 2.