View Full Version : Macro shots
1st of April 2001 (Sun), 22:38
I'm still struggling to take consistently good macro shots (naked G1, no add-ons). What are the secrets? Digital zoom doesn't seem to do much for me. Hints, anyone? What's a good checklist to use? What methods do you find successful?
2nd of April 2001 (Mon), 00:36
The G1 makes excellent macro exposures.
For me there only a few important considerations:
1) use a rigid tripod
2) use F8 aperature
3) I try to use natural light whenever possible, but I have shot indoors at several orchid shows using only the available indoor lighting
becareful not to invade the minimum subject distances. Carry a somekind of ruler or tape.
Checkout my site for some examples:
Good luck, Don Terrana
2nd of April 2001 (Mon), 13:50
I, too, am trying to become a bit more proficient with taking macro shots. The previous poster's comments about using a tripod and using F8 are consistent with my own experience. I have had some success using external flash with my macros, but obviously if you can get sufficient natural light, that would make things a lot easier..
I have been trying to figure out the exact minimum subject distances, but don't have my manual here.
Without any attachments, if (and a big IF there) my understanding is accurate, you invoke the macro mode by pushing the button below the flower symbol on the back of the camera at the wide angle end of the zoom when the image is 6 to 60 centimeters away. That would be 2.36 inches to 23.62 inches or about 2 feet. At the tele side of the zoom, you would invoke the macro mode when the image is from 20 and 60 cm away. (That would be 7.87 inches to, again, 23.62 inches or about 2 feet). Anything closer to the image than those ranges cannot be in focus without the help of an attachment. If you get as close as possible at the maximum telephoto setting, ( 20 cm or about 8 inches), the width of the display can hold an image 3 inches across (about 7.62cm).
With the camera in macro mode, the G1 with the Canon 250D attached can shoot subjects in the range of 12 to 20 cm (4.7 to 7.9 in) from the lens tip. Presumably this is with the telephoto portion of zoom maxed out because of attached lens tube? Not certain about that. Also, since the bit about being from the lens tip came out of the manual, I presume that all of the shooting distances referenced above are also measured from the lens tip.
It would be great if someone could confirm whether the above is correct. I certainly am not putting this info out as fact, becomes I am just beginning to dabble in this stuff. If it is correct, maybe someone could help explain how use of the Canon 250D alters the above. Thanks! And thanks to Pekka for his site!
4th of April 2001 (Wed), 10:24
I'm using Hoya +1, +2, +4 micro set which results came out quite satisfied.
6th of April 2001 (Fri), 23:41
I've had good experience with close-ups (with bright lighting) and often use the manual focus moved to the closest focus. This becomes a lock on the closest focal distance, zoom in then position the camera (distance) and obtain the desired focus, at f8 in AV mode for best depth of field. MF Manual focus seems to override the macro setting, so don't bother with that.
I'm trying to build a slide copier using the G1 and now need more macro than even stacked +1+2+3
9th of April 2001 (Mon), 11:16
Just my 2 cents...while f8 will get you the greatest DOF, I have found that the lens is *sharpest* at around f4-f4.5. Seems to be the sweet spot.
19th of April 2001 (Thu), 00:04
I am trying to take pictures of a solitaire ring with the GI. The problem I am encoutering is that I have a problem getting the camera to focus on the stone and not on the ring/background. I have tried using iso setting of 50, 100 and 200. The manual focus mode and even F8 setting to get the greatest depth of field. I have tried shooting with shutter priority (AV) and program mode but can't seem to get the camera to focus on the stone. I have the camera on a tripod.
Any help will be appreciated.
21st of April 2001 (Sat), 01:11
I would use add-on macro lenses with manual focus pulled all the way in. Then, move the whole camera (or subject if possible) until the focus is just right. If you prefer, at this time you can swtich to Aperture priority set at F8 for greatest DOF. The stone itself would be in focus this way, and as much of the ring as possible. Play with the aperture setting until you have a DOF you can live with. If you are using a flash, select instead the Shutter mode; by selecting a speed of 1/1000 second you will force the shutter into F8 and the flsh will force the camera to select /250 second as the speed since the flash unit cannot (in theory) sych any faster than this.
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