Canon 10D Sharpning

[Bobby Reasons]

:arrow: I have read on another forum ,that you need to turn the cameras sharpning off,if you are going to use photoshop to sharpen the image,if this is right,how do you turn off sharpning on the camera? Do you go to paramenters\ set-up and turn sharpning to 0?Thanks.

[Canuck]

:arrow: I have read on another forum ,that you need to turn the cameras sharpning off,if you are going to use photoshop to sharpen the image,if this is right,how do you turn off sharpning on the camera? Do you go to paramenters\ set-up and turn sharpning to 0?Thanks.

Turning off the in camera sharpening can be done several ways:
1) Shooting RAW...that is what the sensor sees and nothing more or less and is the most flexible way to go as far as tweeking later.
2) in the red zone there is this menu option called perameters, and go to set 1 and set up for 0 sharpness by hitting set button then scroll to sharpness and set to zero if not already. You can also set contrast, saturation, and colour tone but these are for JPEG pics only. RAW as I said above doesn't do any in camera tweeking.

[JoeTampa]

Has anyone played with the sharpening in the 10d and compared it to sharpening via software (say, with unsharp mask)? I'd be interested to hear how well each fared.

[slejhamer]

Just a point of clarification, there is no way to obtain a completely unsharpened 10D (or D-Rebel) image, even if shooting in RAW.

This from Canon's Chuck Westfall on another forum:

... the EOS 10D applies some sharpening to RAW files when they are written in the camera. Like I said at the top of the thread, there is no way to obtain totally unsharpened output from an EOS 10D, regardless of the RAW file conversion software you use. This also applies to all other EOS digital cameras that write .CRW raw files. It does not apply to .TIF raw files from the EOS-1D and EOS-1Ds. "

But it's largely academic, as the amount applied during signal processing is minimal and is more than offset (in my opinion) by the 10D's aggressive anti-aliasing filter.

I apply a small amount of sharpening during conversion in Capture One using their "soft" sharpening setting, then again after all Photoshop edits with USM, generally between 90 and 150 amount, 0.3 to 0.4 radius, 0 to 2 threshold. I apply the USM on layers set to 'darken' and 'lighten' to better control haloing (the lighten layer will have a lower opacity than the darken.) This was a tip from Scott Kelby or Russell Brown, I'm not sure which one.

[robertwgross]

But it's largely academic, as the amount applied during signal processing is minimal and is more than offset (in my opinion) by the 10D's aggressive anti-aliasing filter.

I apply a small amount of sharpening during conversion in Capture One using their "soft" sharpening setting, then again after all Photoshop edits with USM, generally between 90 and 150 amount, 0.3 to 0.4 radius, 0 to 2 threshold.

I think that most of us apply sharpening depending on the intended print size of the finished product. It takes a completely different amount of sharpening depending on whether it is going to a web page, a 4"x6" print, or a 16"x20" print. Therefore, trying to get it exactly right in the camera seems like a tall order.

---Bob Gross---

[sjprg]

I now use Focus Magic for all of my RAW sharping. It uses a whole different approach to sharping. You might like to try their demo. Its slow but does a execelent job if you don't have to process a lot of images