View Full Version : Multiple exposures on EOS 10D
larsesp
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 14:16
Hi,
A newbie question to the "gurus"...
Is it possible to do multiple exposures on an EOS 10D? On a regular film (35mm) camera you can rewind the film and take an additional picture over another.. if you see what I mean??
Lars
cmM
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 14:22
Nope, don't think so. I'm sure you can't on the rebel.
Thankfully, we have Photoshop. Apply one image on top of the other, with the opacity you desire, and you got the same result :)
Jon Borcik
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 14:31
Photoshop is the only way I know of to do this!
Pekka
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 14:49
Photoshop is the only way I know of to do this!
With "Painting with light" technique you can also make a similar effect.
LEC_D30
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 14:52
Look at this link. It is very interesting.
http://www.halley.cc/ed/linux/multexp/
Regards,
lec_eos
larsesp
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 14:54
Thanks a lot for all help!! It's highly appreciated! :D
Lars
DaveG
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 14:57
Hi,
A newbie question to the "gurus"...
Is it possible to do multiple exposures on an EOS 10D? On a regular film (35mm) camera you can rewind the film and take an additional picture over another.. if you see what I mean??
Lars
The Fuji S2 can. The 10D can't.
Longwatcher
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 15:56
Just for trivia, it should be possible to use the flash to get the equivilant of multiple exposures, but only within a single shutter opening in low or no ambient light. Flash/strobe would have to be set off manually multiple times, but should work in theory - must try sometime.
Mikesht
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 16:35
Hi,
A newbie question to the "gurus"...
Is it possible to do multiple exposures on an EOS 10D? On a regular film (35mm) camera you can rewind the film and take an additional picture over another.. if you see what I mean??
Lars
I have not found any good way other than stacking images one on top of other. But there are some creative things you can still do, like this one for example. What I have done here is put my camera on tripod and took a picture, and then moved a branch around a bit and took another picture... Things like that are even easier to control in Photoshop then using 35mm camera (have done this in a past), gives you more creative freedom.
http://images5.fotki.com/v73/photos/1/149429/546694/211558-vi.jpg?1083710095
BigRed450
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 18:42
Due to the fact that the 10D deals directly with digital files, in camera double exposure is not required and definitely out of date (back before the advent of digital). Double exposures in camera are hard to control and can be very tricky, however, with image editing programs such as PhotoShop one can better control the opacity/exposure of each layer independantly of each other, not to mention proper registration and blending. In camera double exposures take alot of practise, patience, time and knowledge of exposure, contrast, and color. Been there, Done that extensively...
Simply put... PS will do it better and faster then it can be done "In Camera".
Tom W
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 19:00
Due to the fact that the 10D deals directly with digital files, in camera double exposure is not required and definitely out of date (back before the advent of digital). Double exposures in camera are hard to control and can be very tricky, however, with image editing programs such as PhotoShop one can better control the opacity/exposure of each layer independantly of each other, not to mention proper registration and blending. In camera double exposures take alot of practise, patience, time and knowledge of exposure, contrast, and color. Been there, Done that extensively...
Simply put... PS will do it better and faster then it can be done "In Camera".
That's a real good point, Bigred - I've done a small handful of double exposures on film and its a little hit-and-miss as far as getting a reasonably exposed final image. I would have to agree that doubling up on the computer should give considerably more control over the final image than the old "spray and pray" method with film.
DaveG
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 19:01
Due to the fact that the 10D deals directly with digital files, in camera double exposure is not required and definitely out of date (back before the advent of digital). Double exposures in camera are hard to control and can be very tricky, however, with image editing programs such as PhotoShop one can better control the opacity/exposure of each layer independantly of each other, not to mention proper registration and blending. In camera double exposures take alot of practise, patience, time and knowledge of exposure, contrast, and color. Been there, Done that extensively...
Simply put... PS will do it better and faster then it can be done "In Camera".
The only thing that a "real" double exposure does better than PS is to let you fire mulitple pops from a strobe when you are trying to build up an exposure in order to get a small aperture.
In the studio my strobes might be outputting to an exposure of f5.6. A second pop gets me to f8, then two more to f11, four more to f16 and eight more to f22. You can see that popping these flashes in total darkness is going to be a pain, while using double exposure with the shutter closing is much more convenient - and safer.
Now I've cursed the "Multi" button on my medium format Mamiya since it could allow me to double expose without me being aware of it. So the lack of double exposure with the 10D had no influence over me buying it. But for some shooters this is very important and true "In Camera" double exposure does have at least this one benefit over digital manipulation in Photoshop.
Tom W
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 19:10
Dave, would that be similar to the technique that astrophotographers use with their 10D's where they "stack" a series of shorter exposures (using a tracking motorized mount) to build a single, clean exposure? If so, then there is software that makes the task easier. I'm not familiar with it, though.
EDIT - Whoops, never mind - what you describe is a totally different issue (and a good one). It pays to read the entire post, and I'll eventually learn that. :)
BigRed450
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 19:39
Interesting point Dave. "In camera DE" in this instance then would seem to be faster and easier, but again only for those knowledgeable individuals who really understand light and exposure...
Thanks
robertwgross
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 19:51
These cameras cannot easily get to a double exposure in the film sense of the term. However, there are bizarre methods that you can shoot a double exposure (sort of).
The standard technique is practiced by cave explorers in a dark cave. You set up the camera (film or digital), and with a locking shutter release, you open the shutter and lock it open *with a black cap over the lens*. Then, when you are ready for the "first exposure", you have an assistant standing 10 feet away with a strobe flash. You pull off the lens cap, the assistant manually triggers the flash, then you put the lens cap back on. The assistant moves to 15 feet away, and you repeat the process. After a few such moves and strobes, you put the lens cap back on and then unlock the shutter release.
You end up with your assistant and the strobe showing up in multiple places on the frame.
Spelunkers of the world, unite!
---Bob Gross---
Tom W
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 19:58
These cameras cannot easily get to a double exposure in the film sense of the term. However, there are bizarre methods that you can shoot a double exposure (sort of).
The standard technique is practiced by cave explorers in a dark cave. You set up the camera (film or digital), and with a locking shutter release, you open the shutter and lock it open *with a black cap over the lens*. Then, when you are ready for the "first exposure", you have an assistant standing 10 feet away with a strobe flash. You pull off the lens cap, the assistant manually triggers the flash, then you put the lens cap back on. The assistant moves to 15 feet away, and you repeat the process. After a few such moves and strobes, you put the lens cap back on and then unlock the shutter release.
You end up with your assistant and the strobe showing up in multiple places on the frame.
Spelunkers of the world, unite!
---Bob Gross---
Interesting technique.
As an aside, my brother in law, a certain Mr. Unger, is a caver and has an internet name of "Spelunger". Now I understand why. :)
robertwgross
4th of May 2004 (Tue), 20:27
It was an interesting technique when I learned it some decades ago. Back then, we had to pack our film cameras and strobes into waterproof Army ammunition cans packed with foam, and then drag those around with us until we got to the location.
Hmmm. I see that some things have never changed.
---Bob Gross---
nucki
5th of May 2004 (Wed), 01:45
Hi,
A newbie question to the "gurus"...
Is it possible to do multiple exposures on an EOS 10D? On a regular film (35mm) camera you can rewind the film and take an additional picture over another.. if you see what I mean??
Lars
I have not found any good way other than stacking images one on top of other. But there are some creative things you can still do, like this one for example. What I have done here is put my camera on tripod and took a picture, and then moved a branch around a bit and took another picture... Things like that are even easier to control in Photoshop then using 35mm camera (have done this in a past), gives you more creative freedom.
http://images5.fotki.com/v73/photos/1/149429/546694/211558-vi.jpg?1083710095
That looks really good! so you just moved the branch a little bit. right? do you shot the second shot out of focus or do you get the blurry effect in PS? do you change exposure or something?
thanks
Peter
Mikesht
5th of May 2004 (Wed), 16:18
THank you. It actually looks a bit better on a large size print.
I just shook the branch a bit, did not change nothing else. Camera had the same settings second time. And of course you can blur it in Photoshop, I was just trying to stay as close to "35mm" as I could, so to speak... At the end it does not matter though, as long as you are happy with result.
Good luck.
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